Cut celebrates top grade meat of the great American steakhouse. Wolfgang Puck is an Austria-born chef and one of the pioneers of the fine-dining in California. From Spago through Cut he had created a restaurant empire stretching from the US to Europe and Asia. While Spago has an innovative California twist, Chinois in Santa Monica is an Asian fusion, and his most recent project at the legendary Bel Air Hotel brings the contemporary, more restrained luxury of food to the spotlight. His Hollywood smile and charisma like his food look great and tastes alluring.
The vibrant and modern interior at Cut can feel a bit cold on a day light. In the evening when the lights are dim it feels much more cosy. Wear a carefree and youthful looking leather jacket or a fancy dress, after all you are in Beverly Hills and here not conservative style, but individuality and money rule. The chairs may feel like in an office, but the comfortable booths are great.
Food: Rich, oily, juicy with a slight California gourmet twist. Starting with Tomatoes, Cheese and Anchovy Salad I was confused since the anchovies just did not work with the other ingredients, mainly the camembert style cheese. It was one of the seasonal out-of-the-menu dishes and if they offer it again I will not order it. Steak Tartare made of chopped Prime Sirloin and served with Grilled Bread followed. This dish was delicious. The crucial aspect of a great steak tartare is using high quality meat and the way the meat is chopped. At the Cut they have cut it perfectly – thin and tender chunks of meat melted in my mouth smoothly after mixing them up with the quail egg, onions and chives. The only minus was the bland grilled bread.
As any steak house in America, Cut features seductive side dishes. The French Fries with Herbs were not impressive – chewy and not crisp, the Tempura Onion Rings was too oily and not crispy as a real tempura style should be. The Sautéed Baby Spinach with Garlic was not spoiled. The highlight was the delicious Soft Polenta with Parmesan. The polenta together with the Cavatappi Pasta “Mac & Cheese,” Québec Cheddar would be the only two sides that I would order again. We also tried the Wild Field Mushrooms, Japanese Shishito Peppers, but they were disappointing for the high price. Not having much flavour is a total failure for any mushroom dish.
The wine list blinks alluring wines from all over the world, with niche choices from California. The sommelier was very helpful. We got a small production Cabernet Sauvignon from Scribe and were thrilled. I have not had such an elegant Cab from California for a long time. It was perfectly balanced, with velvety tannins and depth keeping up with the intensity of the food served at Cut. The wine was for sure the highlight of the dinner.
Monday – Thursday: 6 p.m. – 10 p.m.; Friday: 6 p.m. – 11 p.m.; Saturday: 5:30 p.m. – 11 p.m., closed on Sunday
Beverly Wilshire – Four Seasons Hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills, California 90212, USA
+1 310 276 8500