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Pylos: Greek home cooking in New York's East Village

For 10 years Pylos has been faithful to its ethos of “rustic, greek, home cooking” in Manhattan’s East Village. The restaurant’s consulting chef, Diane Kochilas, is globally acknowledged authority on greek cuisine. She published cooking books and teaches every summer at her cooking school on Ikaria island in Greece.

Atmosphere: Contemporary design features contrast with the rustic brick wall and the clay pots, in an amphorae shape hanging from the ceiling like an army of greek warriors. The restaurant’s name PYLOS (pronounced Pee-‘los) is the root word that includes things of clay in greek. A large communal table at the back part of the restaurant accommodates bigger groups, while smaller tables lining along the walls of the narrow foyer are suitable for couples and tables of four. Not quiet, neither noisy, Pylos is a great casual hangout with authentic food and friendly service.
Food: The characteristic greek trio of lemon, olive oil and capers, penetrates into almost every dish, making the food fresh dominant by slightly acidic flavours. Start with the classic Poikilia of three Greece’s best dipping sauces – tzatziki, taramosalata and melitzanosalata … or crisp Horiatiki the classic greek village salad, with juicy tomatoes, fresh onions, cucumbers, capers, kalamata olives, feta dressed in extra-virgin greek olive oil and red wine vinegar.

My favourite warm starter was the Htapothi scharas of grilled, marinated octopus. The tender octopus shined through the thick balsamic vinaigrette, olive oil and caper entourage on the plate.
A meatless version of Anginares moussaka with artichoke heart, caramelized onions, herbs and three greek cheeses béchamel sauce was not as tasty as the minced meat original, but a great option for vegetarians.

My favourite dish at Milos, the more higher end greek restaurant in Manhattan, Kolokythakia kai melitzanakia tyganita – crisp, fried zucchini and eggplant rounds served with tzatziki – was not as refined at Pylos with its more rustic batter and thicker slices of vegetables, yet it was very yummy.

The Haloumi sote me stafylia kai tsipouro – thick slices of sautéed gummy-textured haloumi cheese enhanced by greek grappa and originally served with slightly cooked grapes is a perfect wine dish.

Finally a meat starter Soutzoukakia smyrneika, which is a ground meat sausage seasoned with cumin and bathing in a generous tomato sauce. It was superb, although not my mum’s level amazing. Still, delicious with an intense red Xinomavro wine creating a wonderful pair.

We went for the meaty main courses and were pleasantly surprised not just by the generous portions, but also by the exquisite luscious sauces in which the beef and lamb were cooked.

The Arni kotsi me meli, gigantes skordalia kai psiti tomata cretan was a gargantuan honey braised lamb shank served with giant bean and roasted garlic puree and roasted tomato. The puree had a slight spicy kick and coarser texture suitable for a chunk of meat on the bone.

The marinated grilled baby lamb chops Paidakia galaktos stin schara me imam kai mora patates, served with mini stuffed eggplants and fingerling potatoes were more delicate, cooked more on the rare side and suitable for sharing.
My favourite piece of flash was Krasata paidakia, the classic braised short ribs, in spicy xinomavro red wine. The beef was of excellent quality, the sauce luscious and perfect to mix in to the porcini mushroom potato puree served aside the meat.
Sweets are mostly based on thick greek yoghurt and phyllo pastry.

Cuisine: Greek authentic
Visit: September 2013
Price: High, but justified by big portions (starters around $10; main large meals between $20-$30).
Drinks: All Greek wine list scooping everything from white single varietal asyrtyko, red fruity agiorgitiko (meaning St.George’s; deep red color and remarkable aromatic complexity, soft tannins and balanced acidity) to intense tannic xinomavro. Rose wines and blends, retsina, greek dessert wines from asyrtyko, muscat, mavrodaphne, commandaria varietals allow for every palate to find something good. We went for the recommended Xinomavro from Domaine Karydas Naoussa Macedonia 2009. Meaning “acid-black”, Xinomavro is suitable for aging with the wines rich tannic character. Red fruits with hints of olives, spices and dried tomatoes make this wine distinct from anything else. Its powerful structure makes it an ideal food wine, especially with lamb and beef dishes.
Opening hours: Daily for dinner 5:00 pm – 12:00 am (Thurs & Fri till 1:00am); lunch from Wednesday to Sunday 11:30 am – 4:00 pm.
Address: 128 east 7th Street (btw. 1st Avenue & Avenue A), New York 10009
Contact: Tel: +1 212 473 0220

Per Se: dine for less at one of the best restaurants in New York

Thomas Keller is still one of the most cherished chefs in North America. His French Laundry in Napa Valley remarkably enlivened the gastronomic scene in the US. Along with the French Laundry his French bistro Bouchon mushroomed and he also opened Ad Hoc in Yountville, the gastronomic heart of Napa Valley. In 2004 he opened the most awarded from all of these French Laundry subordinates – Per Se in New York. The three Michelin restaurant was for years helmed by Keller himself, but since 2010 Eli Kaimeh, Per Se’s chef for years, took the helm leading the restaurant’s daily feat for perfection woefully. Per Se steadily loiters at the summit of the restaurant Everest in New York unwilling to climb down.

The entrance to Per Se is located in the New York’s Time Warner Centre. The journey up to the fourth floor via the shopping mall escalators hits you with the pompous massive wooden doors with golden handles marks a serious dining establishment. Enter the unpretentious mecca of culinary innovation and gustatory pleasure. It does not bite you, but you will devour plenty of tasty stuff inside. The Salon is the bar seating area offering some of the restaurant tasting menu dishes á la carte. It feels darker and more intimate than the 16 table heart of the restaurant. The windows open to the Western corner of the Central Park. At the Salon no reservations policy like at Le Bernardin and Daniel allows for a casual show up and gourmandise. Considering that the restaurant is usually fully booked at least a month ahead, this a savvy way in.

The food is balanced, impeccably sourced and reasonably sized (considering all that extra stuff you are treated by, but you did not order, that is wise). Starting with the famous amuse bouche of sublime Tuna mini cone whether you eat at the bar or the restaurant, the score is one-one. The thin cone envelops a foamy tuna mouse melting in your month like a whipped sea wave swooshing along assembled flavours from its journey from the water to the chef’s hands. A meditative start to a superb meal.
There is usually at least one vegetarian (or vegetable-based) dish. Like a haute couture salad, the Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm were wonderfully assembled. A celery branch, an exotic Cara Cara orange, preserved green tomatoes and horseradish crème fraîche. Refreshing, zesty and savoury sphere for a light appetiser.
A foie Gras is a mainstay at gastronomic restaurants using French cooking techniques and Per Se is not an exception. The controversially produced goose liver is banned in some countries and states including the sunny California (home to the French Laundry), but not in the open-minded New York. Daily changing variations of culinary adventures with it can feature Slow Poached Élevages Périgord Moulard Duck Foie Gras served with poached rhubarb, refreshing young fennel, crunchy and elegant Spanish Marcona almonds, rich Greek yogurt sprinkled with watercress. This was the rare occasion for me to taste it since I do not support this cruel elevage, yet once every couple of years I succumb to ordering it since the smooth liver is delicious.
You can add a scoop of the luxurious caviar. Served with blinins and the Per Se balancing touch or spooned over other dishes, this extra hedonism will cost you well over $100.
The main dishes inspired by Italian and French cuisines use mainly local but also some European ingredients. The Mediterranean Turbot served with soft Celery Root “Porridge”, Chestnut Confit, Brown Chicken Jus and Black Winter Truffles was tender in a delicate blend with rich wintery ingredients.
Butter Poached Lobster from Nova Scotia served with moon-shaped toasted bread pudding, caramelised cipollini onions, crunchy Piedmont hazelnuts, pumpkin “Parisienne” and a fig-chocolate emulsion, was an international conference of resources and ideas. As if the American lobster convened peacefully with the Turkish-British alliance on how to deal with the Italian and French gastronomic dominance in our restaurants. The fig-chocolate emulsion solved the issue by balancing the global powers on the plate as it changed the overall character of the dish so none of the national interests dominated at least on this plate.
The “Carnaroli Risotto Biologioco” is an organic risotto shaved over generously and not cheaply with the black winter truffle.

Dessert Tasting Menu at the Salon are five mini-desserts, but you can order à la carte. The Cheese Course is served with tasty amenities, but I went for the chef’s speciality Jaffa Cake. A vanilla Génoise, blood orange “Pâte de Fruits“, the locally made Mast Brothers chocolate ganache and a jasmine ice cream, was superb in its complexity.
An iPad wine list enables expanding or changing the wine selection with a slip of a finger so the sommelier has a complete and immediate control over it. Well-organised and practical, but if you do not know wine and the wine-producing regions well then your first moment of excitement may fizz out in a few seconds. If you are lost in the wonder ‘wineland’, ask the sommelier for recommendations fitting your budget. There are wines under $100 per bottle so realistic even for the occasional splurge.
Very expensive: Two daily changing nine-course Chef’s or Vegetable Tasting menus, each $295; five-course lunch menu $185. The Salon menu à la carte starts at $30 per plate so you can dine at Per Se just under $100 per head without wine. Salon is the bar area just after entering Per Se.
Mon-Thurs: 5:30–10:00 pm; Fri, Sat & Sun:11:30 am – 1:30 pm, 5:30–10:00 pm
Time Warner Center, 4th fl., 10 Columbus Circle, New York
+1 212 823 9335

Chocolate Euphoria: chocolate baking for your Valentine

We should eat and share chocolate with others as it gives us even more pleasure than selfishly and lonely indulge in the hedonistic act of gorging on that leftover birthday chocolate cake. For these of you who are more practical I am sharing these recipes for tasty dark chocolate desserts that I have recently learned during an evening chocolate baking class at the Natural Gourmet Institute in New York. These delicious pastries do not take half day to bake and you do not need too many ingredients so you can make any of them quickly.
Cuisine: Desserts/ chocolate.
Cooking school: Natural Gourmet Institute in New York.
Chef/instructor: Jay Weinstein is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and the author of many food-related books. He worked at the Michelin acclaimed New York restaurant Le Bernardin and many others. I admired how well he managed three groups of people each creating chocolate sensations from different recipes. He led us all to success that was rewarded by a chocolate-themed late dinner with a glass of plump and juicy Pinot Noir from California.

Recipe for the Chocolate Velvet Cake

serves 16 portions
– this cake was a substantial majority favourite of the class attendees.
Ingredients: 8 large eggs; 1 pound semi-sweet chocolate, 8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter; 1/4 cup strong coffee; cocoa powder for dusting.
Method: Preheat oven to 325 °F (162ºC). Grease an 8″ or 9″ springform pan, and line the bottom with waxed or parchment paper. Wrap the outside of the pan in foil to prevent leaks. Prepare a pot of boiling water in which you put a smaller bowl or pot filled with chocolate, sliced butter and coffee. Let it melt a bit and then start stirring it until the substances melt. In an electric mixer, beat the eggs until they double in volume (about 5 minutes). Fold in the whipped eggs in three additions into the melted chocolate. Mix carefully, just enough to incorporate the eggs into the chocolate. Pour it all into the prepared springform pan and place it into a deep roasting pan. Pour enough boiling water into the roasting pan to come about halfway up on the sides of the cake. Put both on to the lower-middle rack of the oven and bake about 25 minutes, until the cake rises slightly and has a thin crust. You can use a thermometer and stick it into the middle of the cake. When it reads 140 ºF (60ºC) then it is ready. Then transfer the springform to a wire rack and cool to room temperature. Refrigerate for several hours.
* For conversion of °F to ºC and equivalent gas marks use this chart.
To serve: Warm sides of the springform with a hot, wet towel to let the cake loosen and then pop and open it. Cut with a hot wet knife, which you wipe and make wet each time you cut a new slice. Dust with cocoa powder and place on a plate with refreshing tips of mint, or red berries for a sexy look.

Chocolate baking brownies

You can make also something a bit more simple like these superb Brownies (these are really the best I have ever had):
Ingredients: 3 eggs; 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract; 1 cup of white flour; 4 ounces of unsweetened baking chocolate; 3/4 cup of butter (or coconut oil); 1 1/2 cups of organic sugar; 1 cup of chopped walnuts.
Method: Preheat the oven to 325 ºF (162ºC). Grease a 9″ x 13″ sized glass baking dish.
Melt the chocolate and butter together in a double boiler (put a big bowl over a large pot with hot water), leave it melt a bit and then stir it until it becomes smooth and the chocolate is just melted. Take out of the heat, stir in sugar, whole eggs and vanilla extract and at the end the flour with walnuts.
Then you pour all the mixture into a glass baking dish. Bake for 20-35 minutes until a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out with fudgy crumbs. Cool in the baking dish before transferring to a cutting board. Cut into 24 squares and serve.

Chocolate souflé

For the adventurous half of you, try to make a Chocolate souflé (serves 12), which is one of trickiest chocolate baking desserts to keep an eye on – the trick is do not open the oven before they are almost done!
Ingredients: 5 tablespoons unsalted butter; 1/2 cup organic sugar; 8 ounces roughly chopped bittersweet chocolate; pinch of salt; 1 teaspoon vanilla extract (liquid); 1 tablespoon citrus liqueur such as Tripple Sec; 6 egg yolks; 8 egg whites; 1/4 teaspoon of a cream of tartar.

Method: 1 tablespoon of softened of butter use to coat the ceramic pots for soufflé and then coat with a layer of sugar or cocoa powder. Shake it around the buttered dishes so it all gets entirely covered otherwise the dough will stick to the pots. Combine remaining 4 tablespoons of chopped butter with chopped chocolate over a double boiler (put a big bowl over a large pot with hot water) until it just melts. Then stir in salt, vanilla and citrus liqueur.
Correctly whip egg whites in a clean mixing bowl so they stick to the whisk attachment on the mixer and form a V-shaped, snow-like mountain. During mixing add a cream of tartar (usually in a form of white powder).

Simmer the sugar with 1/3 cup of water until it dissolves. In a mixer whisk this sirup gradually into the egg yolks that have been whipped slightly before. Whip until the mixture triples in volume and is light in colour (takes about 5 minutes). Fold these whipped yolks together with melted chocolate.

Fold one-third of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture and add them carefully until you use all of them. Divide the batter into the prepared coated ceramic pots, don’t fill them entirely as they will rise after the baking. Level off the tops with a spatula so they are even. Transfer them into a freezer until you want them to serve. Then bake at 400 ºF until fully risen for about 18-20 minutes. Only check them in 18 minutes and do not open the oven before!
This is the result that you serve warm with a creamy vanilla sauce poured in the middle of each individual soufflé (make a small howl with a spoon into the centre).
Next to the chocolate baking class, this calendar of Classes at Natural Gourmet Institute in New York can help you with planing ahead.
+1 212 645 5170
48 W 21st St #2, New York, NY 10010; USA.

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