Arles: soul penetrating light that charmed Van Gogh and now fires up the contemporary art world

Art feeds mythology, and mythology stirs art. For half a century, the world’s best photographers descended each summer upon Arles, but not in 2020 as like most group gatherings in the world, the Rencontres de la Photographie were cancelled. Still, now that Arles is tautted as one of the most exciting art destinations of Europe (like Athens), it’s time to ride the bull, literally. Beyond the cruel tradition of bull fighting that Picasso was keen on, still active in the vast Roman Arena of Arles, its ancient core is fascinating to observe in all shades of day and night or angle of light. Van Gogh was smitten to stay a while luring Gaugin in, while the Occitan poet Frédéric Mistral revived the local Provencal language and later the Southern wild wind that blows as far as in Monaco on the Italian border was named after this Nobel Prize awardee.

Shifting perception: deeply historic and contemporary transformations of Arles

In some aspects, Arles reminds me of Marrakech in its much cleaner and orderly French incarnation. Bright skies, heat warms the dusty and rocky soil, even palm trees soar from the courtyard shades of the tight-set town. This ancient Roman cum Romanesque and Gothic heart of Arles I describe is enlivened by the cafés-embroidered Place du Forum. My favourite people-gazing is from the tables at the awarded Glacier, licking indulgently his artisan ice cream I revel in the spirit of Arles. A few steps away, passing provencal azure shutters, flowers-spilling balconies and cosy shaded patios here and there, the imposing Republic Square with a towering Roman obelisque, brightens and widens the space.

Arles square

One feels calm in the chaos of life in its core. I found such an artistically nurturing bohemian, creative and spiritual lure in the hometown of the Gipsy Kings. Next to nature only very old towns inhabited by artists and free minds can wield such a draw. Empty monasteries, imposing cathedrals and deserted catholic churches share a profoundly religious story of its not too distant glorious past. The Roman Catholic Church of St. Trophime (photo bellow left) is a sublime edifice of elaborate art merging with Roman simplicity towering towards the blue sky. I would not take a map or followed any digital navigation in Arles, for it is small enough to find all that can absorb you by its wowing beauty.

architecture ArlesGothic architecture

spiritual artArles abbey

contemporary design in Arlesreligious architecture

Now, there are no crowds gazing at the forget-me-not-hued shutters and crumbling facades that are so St Tropez before the world flooded in.

The Grand Hotel du Nord Pinus hides inside the most prominent local character. Here, countless legendary photographers lodged during their Southern summer encounters. The rooftop suite makes an authentic Arlèsienne sejour and I will never forget the buzz at night I heart from its balcony or the early morning church bells luring me out to observe the sunlit rooftops. In a tight passage near to the Place du Forum a bullfighters’ bar wields a similar nostalgic passionate lifestyle of the cultured locals.

historic hotelsdesign hotels

The South, as in the charming 60s French movies, that’s Arles in the 21st century. Savvy artists recognised that and are still imprinting their legacy around its Roman walls. West to East, from The latino MANUEL RIVERA-ORTIZ FOUNDATION for documentary photography and film to the Japanese Tadao Ando transforming a romaesque townhouse for his Korean artist friend’s Lee Ufan foundation Arles scheduled to open in 2022.

Vincent Van Gogh museumArles photo

I have been coming to eat and wander around the stone-clad heart of Arles for years. Something attractively bohemian gently sways through its narrow cobbled streets with bright Southern blue shutters and the welcoming shade from June till October, it is art. This is my Prague of the South. Too small to become hip setter, the town is authentically inspiring. Go now.

Arlatan hotel Arles

The old town’s permanent gallery space has been also expanding recently, but the big game is behind the Roman city walls. One cannot miss the stark LUMA Arles Complex twisting in its aluminium-plated helix by the Pritzker Prize awarded Frank Gehry. Commissioned by the Swiss collector Maja Hoffmann, who is rocking the town by adding a boutique design hotel in a former ducal palazzo embellished by her Latin American artist friend last year. This newest addition to the extremely limited local hotel scene, L’Arlatan is a lesson in ducal architecture married with creative openness in the bright pictorial art of Jorge Pardo. His art suits the birthtown of Christian Lacroix, the French designer whose colorful pattered fabrics brightened fashion. The handmade tiles spark energy on the floors and the bathrooms of the dark former palace, while hand pained wardrobes and dressers transform each unique suite into an art gallery. I enjoyed a pre-dinner drink and a lunch at its superb casual restaurant courtyard revealing a majestic staircase. Overseen by the local Michelin stared chef Armand Arnal of La Chassagnette (a protegé of Hoffmann), the plates are small, inspired by his organic garden and sustainable Franco-Italian Mediterranean produce. Each summer, invited chefs create “four hands” meals inspired by each other’s cuisine. This concept of creative collaboration has expanded across Arles over the past decade.

 

Dining: casual or gastronomic, Arles has all that your belly craves

Arles is happening right now and it is not. Less travellers globally in 2020 means so much more space to admire its beauty. While the pandemic prevented the annual Photographic Encounters for the first time since its conception in 1969, the local dining as much as its permanent art scene are booming. Try the Arlèsienne cuisine, in which the most typical is the bull meat from the fights in the ancient Arena. The unmistakably local character and two Michelin chef Jean-Luc Rabanel serves it tender and smoked at his L’Atelier. I am not so keen on his cuisine, but his bistro delivers local fare more reliably than the lavishly-decorated fine dining restaurant. For a gastronomic meal in Arles, I much prefer La Chassagnette.

Arls lifeArles life

The casual and contemporary seasonal chefs pop-ups at Chardon Arles have, so far, never disappointed. Each spring and summer we fork into the carte blanche degustation by a chef from Australia, Denmark, or some young French chefs, while sipping affordable, superb and sensible selections of natural wines by its sommelier. Mostly local ingredients are transformed under a globe-trotting eye of each chef.

best dining in ArlesFrench coffee

The Grand Hotel du Nord Pinus also invites various chefs to rotate in its kitchen. Arles offers a truly international culinary inspiration, notably present for its size. A Mexican taco pop-up in an open sky photo gallery space last year was fun, but as the area is being currently transformed, I hope this latin concept will be transferred somewhere else in town.

Do not miss the hyper-local specialities like the Camargue red rice, the crispy chickpea Panisses a local version of potato fries or the fresh local goat cheese. Fad’Ola sandwiches made with olive oil and “love” bring a fast casual spark into Arles. The best quality in the hands of a couple that also rolls some maki sushi into their menu. For a quick seafood fix lounge at Du Bar a l’Huitre tucked in a corner of the vibrant Place du Forum.

casual eats in Arles

best food in Arlescasual food Arles

Hands on creativity in Arles

Next to the recent contemporary twists on the face of Arles, the small town is still quirky and artisanship is hived in its DNA. The Van Gogh Foundation is opened only one day each week, most of the galleries also welcome visitors just on weekends. Some creative spaces operate more seriously though. Le Main Qui Pense, a ceramic studio cum boutique where I find each time some beautiful local clay even Camargue salt meets hands in her pottery. Some is custom-made for the nearby three Michelin stared Oustau de Baumanière restaurant. Along with many other creative spaces, she organises pottery workshops, hands on. Small design stores and even tailor-made apparel offer unique pursuits.

The Arles Summer Photography School is renown, plenty of cultural programming at the local cinema meets book store and the event space attached to the Foundation Van Gogh nurtures any type of a curious creative soul. Vincent (outdoor light seeker) invited Gaugin (atelier primitivism-inspired imaginator), his friend prior to his neurotic bouts and Absinthe-clouded aggression, to his den in Arles and they painted side-by-side colour saturated scenes. A book festival each spring and a recording studio in the old town broaden the scope of arts practiced in real time.

Arles has a very varied shades of life. The young creatives sip their artisan beer in some hidden bars, while the socially hip found the Arlatan catering to their taste. The Bourgeoise is not welcome in the free-spirited, left-leaning town. Culturally diverse, in the outskirts and during the weekly market the Arabic community swarms around the city walls, making you feel you are in Northern Africa. The market is vast, not as charming as in Montpelier, Senas, St Tropez, Cannes or Nice, but way cheaper.

The cafe culture still swells with live, yet you can find moments of monastic solitude and peace here. Whether you wander in the tight clasps of its streets or dwell inside the stocky walls of the hotels particuliers, Arles feels the retrograde of time, which today may take up a positive meaning in its slow paced, egalitarian and simple soul.


Rosé wine: the fresh and fragrant taste of summer all year round

Provence in the South of France is famous for sprawling purple fields of lavender and for the pink-hued rosé wine. The fragrant herb assists to a relaxing sleep, while the fermented grape wine breeds energy. Often imbibed during the summer the refreshing rosés partner perfectly with the warm days and evenings. But, the stimulating qualities of this peach, pink and sometimes tangerine hued beverage could be enjoyed all year-long as a glass of a crisp white wine does, and you do not need to live in Provence for the right moment to open a bottle.
rose wine rose wine

The global pink infatuation

Made around the world in different styles, often from local grapes, rosé wine remains in vogue and is perhaps the most known easy drinking wine. Yet, from all the wine growing regions, Provence still remains the place where the highest quality and the most iconic pink wines are made. The centuries-long experience of making this style of wine in the South of France led to an emergence of a wide array of elegant and refreshing styles beloved by many wine drinkers. Not only those vacationing on the beaches of the glitzy St. Tropez now seek the crisp, fresh and light bottle of Domaine Ott or Château Minuty. Although, along the Mediterranean shores of the Côte d’Azur, pink wine has made its mark as the fashionable lunch wine, now wherever the sun shines from London to California, rosé has risen into the regular offerings of brasseries, cafés and even the fine-dining restaurants.
In Europe rosé is usually a bone dry wine, but particularly in some New World countries such as in Australia or California it can be quite sweet. This type of rosé is very different from its dry version as it should be better drunk in small quantities due the high level of residual sugar. Increasingly rosé is made by using organic farming methods.

Provence roseProvence top rose

How you get the pink colour of rosé wine

These wines are actually hard to make, but some producers took the challenge and have now proved that it can be an intriguing wine. There are three main ways to make it. The average and low quality wines are often just a blend of a white and red wine. Yet, a majority of the higher quality pink wines are made by a short grapes’ skin contact with the juice. Crushed grapes are left with their skins in the must to leave some red colour in the juice that after fermentation becomes wine. In Provence a “bleeding (saignée) method” is used. In this approach some juice is removed so the ratio of skins is higher and thus the wine becomes darker.

Provencal rose wineFrench Rose wine
Along with its increasing popularity, the art of making pink wine has crossed the borders of Provence, Bandol and Tavel in the South of France. The Rosé d’Anjou of the Loire Valley, intensely fruity and known as an easy to drink young wine. It can surprise as recently I opened a five years old bottle from the 2011 vintage and it was surprisingly delicious. Held very well! These wines form the last group, the so called “Vin Gris” (Grey Wines). These are pale pink, almost grey resembling wines made from the whole bunches of grapes, so the colour from the skins diffuses quickly into the juice before their removal and fermentation. Gris de Bourgogne is another example of the French Vin Gris. These wines do not have a very good reputation, but today there are some that are much more delicate and scented with fruity aromas.
House in ProvenceRose wine from Provence
Unfortunately, stereotypes are hard to beat, and we sometimes can become the slaves of bullheadedness (what a lovely word for rigidness). To overcome rigid behavior and attitudes, an exposure to reasonable opposing views from others can be the cure. I will provide you with some reasons to drink rosé wine:

  • In warm or cold weather, rosé can be an ideal aperitif just as a glass of white wine can. Your palate will be invigorated and ready for meals to come.
  •  Rosé is wonderful with fruit and seafood, both enjoyed throughout the year. Do you eat fruit only in the summer?
  •  Some white and red wines cost a fortune these days. But, the majority of rosé is quite affordable as it is drunk mostly young and is not intended for long aging as many of the expensive wines are.
  •  Have you heard of the magic health powers of resveratrol, the substance found in the skins of grapes? Good for your heart, increasing longevity, etc. The trick is though, that there is no resveratrol in white wine because the wine is fermented without its skins where this “miraculous” substance is found. Red wine has quite a lot of it and rosé has to have some as either the grapes are macerated for some time with the skins or white and red wine are blended together. Only beware of some of the suspiciously cheap rosés as they often get their color with the help of chemical techniques, not friendly to retaining of many of the natural substances in wine.
  • By drinking rosé we can evoke the memories of the last summer as our brain often connects flavors with experiences from the past. A hint of St. Tropez in a cloudy London or a cool Stockholm? Everyone who has visited the South of France would agree with me, that bringing up the atmosphere of this wonderful place on Earth anywhere feels great.

pink wineBest wine near St Tropez
In Provence 80% of wine produced is pink, but styles differ considerably because of diverse soils and microclimates. Provence is also the largest Appelation Controlée in France, thus it is no wonder that it is mostly known for production of rosé wine. Therefore they do not need to be necessarily considered as low quality wines. Similar to humans, they spark with energy when young. Their main purpose follows naturally from their youthful qualities – they are refreshing and please the palate with their fresh fruity character. Light and energising wines are often preferred during the summer and are highly suitable for drinking in warm climates. Their invigorating and cooling properties cool the heat down as an inner air-conditioning system. Like a lemonade they quench thirst and spark up a good spirit.

Provence rose wineBandol wine

Grapes commonly used to make rosé are the red Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cabernets and local specialities such as Tibouren in Provence that are blended with some white Clairette or Ugni Blanc.

In Spain, Tempranillo is also used and blended with Merlot or other varietals.

Australia with its iconic Shiraz uses this grape for pink wine production as well, but there are some more adventurous producers such as in Yalumba using the Italian red varietal Sangiovese and other grapes for their rosé wine.

The Shed Dunleavy by Te Motu winery from Waiheke island in New Zealand make fragrant and intense rose wine from Merlot.

In California Arnot-Roberts make fragrant pink wine from the delicate Pinot Noir.
American roseNew Zealand rose
Rosé wine is also a wonderful food partner. Seafood, fruit, even the tricky white asparagus, pork, quiche, pizza, exotic cuisine with mild spices and charcuterie all go very well with this wine.
Serve it well-chilled and in general use it as you would most of white wines. As a refreshing aperitif or with suitable food.

My favorite rosés from Provence and Var are:

  • Domaine La Tourraque – beautiful property overlooking the Mediterranean just next to Ramatuelle worth visiting
  • Bertaud – Belieu – striking winery in the plains behind St Tropez inspired by Greek architecture, favorite of Hollywood celebrities
  • Château des Marres – well-positioned producer near to St Tropez with a nice cave and tasting the Cuvee 1907 is the ultimate
  • Château de Pampelonne – its name evokes the beautiful sandy beaches of the same name just behind St. Tropez.
  • Château D’Esclans – forget the Whispering Angel, their Garrus is shockingly expensive for a rosé, yet it rewards with a wonderful complex array of flavours worth some age. The result is a concentrated wine with dried citrus, pear, exotic fruit and rich finish.
  • Another good value is Château Roubine, a very old property with history spanning to the Roman times. With over 35 years old grapes their rosé is well-balanced, delicate and aromatic.
  • Domaine Tempier in Bandol makes a deep pink wine that is more ripe. Based on Mourvèdre brings richer almost meaty flavour and some tannins into the wine, which sets it better for aging. Domaine Bunan makes organic wholesome, hand-harvested rose in Bandol too.

Le Cabanon: bohemian beach dining near Monaco

Shaded by the low parasols of mulberry trees, Le Cabanon epitomises the bon vivant lifestyle in the Mediterranean. Not just in the summer, but after the berries ripen into their darkest, sweetest selves and when the leaves fall off, the sunny and calm winter days breeze in the leisure of the Azure Coast. A short coastal stroll from Monaco, this rocky peninsula reminisces of the Côté d’Azur long gone, when tourism did not feel so suffocating.

mediterranean style at at Le CabanonFrench Riviera

At le Cabanon, the outdoor rustic setup is open on most days when the mild coastal mood of the Mediterranean weather permits. Otherwise, a cosy beach shed provides shelter for the needy foodies strolling or running by.

You are in for a hearty Southern meal, strong French coffee, tisane, a glass or bottle of something vivacious to lift up your social skills. Authenticity was killed elsewhere, but this beach-side café on Pointe des Dounaiers keeps the beach bohemian nourished.

Le Cabanon Cap d'AilLe Cabanon Cap d'Ail

Teasing you in, the smell of fresh French bread and the casual jolly vibe – conversing, sipping, patting their dogs or playing the boules – you cannot resist. Spread like a French village carpet, the petanque field is open to the public, so come early on weekends.

On warm days, we swarm in with the joyous bon-vivants on the al-fresco terrace (December and January may surprise you with 14-16 degree days as in 2020 the winters warm up above average also in the Mediterranean). The inside of the restaurant, cosy it may look, seems as an emergency seating, for even on the cool days, people wrapped in shawls sip their drinks outside. Without a meal, enjoy a refreshment on the wooden benches set on the side as a bar.

mediterranean foodProvencal rose wine

Once you order an aperitif, a pissaladiére, the Niçoise-style focaccia topped with stewed onions, olives and anchovies is served. In their full hedonistic glory, spread by the outside kitchen counter, the pastries seduce for a glutenous feast.

The page-long wine ‘carte‘ includes organic wines from all over France, with the Southern regions more prominent. We usually go for a rosé by Domaine de Léoube with one lunch, Château Sainte Marguerite on another day or a bottle of white Loire Sancerre.

mediterranean foodmediterranean food

mediterranean foodFrench cuisine

Le Cabanon was taken over by the restaurant group that also manages La Resèrve du Mala, the Tahitian-style cove restaurant further on the seaside path towards Cap Ferrat. Ever since, the food and consistency have both improved.

Plenty of vegetables (order the bowl of cruditès, raw veggies with dips), but also hearty meat stews, pasta, burrata and other Franco-Italian bounty changes seasonally on the menu. In the fall, we love the Rabbit stuffed pasta with artichokes, carrots, olives and tomatoes. The local, fresh, fish and seafood are usually just perfectly grilled and served with potatoes and seasonal veggies. There is always either lamb or French beef on the carte and on special days even a tender veal.

French bread at Le CabanonFrench Riviera style

The ‘bistro a la plage’ always offers a daily catch  – grilled à la plancha served with lemon, potatoes and southern vegetables. On special occasions such as the Christmas Day or New Years’ lunch a fixed multi-course menu smoothens the service, that can be otherwise quite laid back (this is not a quick business lunch caffetteria). To finish, the dessert manu always includes some home cake, but also more fancy sweets, but we prefer the French cheese platter as purists.

Red mullet at Le Cabanon Cap d'AilVeal at Le Cabanon Cap d'AilLe Cabanon Cap d'AilDessert at Le Cabanon Cap d'Ail

The schmoozing resident cats (Buvette + friends) bring even more homey touch. Their shiny furs halo how well-fed these domesticated pets are at Le Cabanon. Throwing them a bit of fish skin or a crumble of bread, pleases both the feeder and the fed.

Beware, the few parking spots next to the restaurant became a thorn in the eye of the local police. Better leave your car either at the nearby hillside, tricky to find Parking des Douaniers or a less than a 10 minute stroll at the end of Plage Marquet parking (either is free on Sundays, public holidays and from 12noon-2pm every day).

We have a tendency to relive the positive memories, and often I revisit these happy moments I shared with others at Le Cabanon in Cap d’Ail. Still, the magic is in our own attitudes, and if you are open to be happy, you will be anywhere and at any time. Although I carry this image of the perfect meal at Côté d’Azur in my mind, I also enjoy other places on this marvellous coast or away from it. Nevertheless, I am always looking forward to my next meal at Le Cabanon!


Dior des Lices: chic garden dining and life music in St Tropez

Dior des Lices is the verdant crown of polished hedonism in St Tropez. Envisioned by the multi-Michelin French chef Yanick Alléno of the Pavillon Le Doyen in Paris, and by LVHM backed 1948 at the Cheval Blanc in Courchevel, beautiful surroundings meet luxury are in sync with his gastronomic style at the Dior café. This is where the well-dressed meet for an evening aperitif, afternoon patisserie, or a luxurious meal staged on the al-fresco carpet of joy. On weekends, live music gigs vary from soft guitar tunes through vocal chansons as well as smooth English songs.
Dior cafe
Design, naturally covets any fine aesthete’s eye — art installed in the garden, exclusive Dior dishware, branded pastries — even the butter gets its Dior stamp. By using luxurious ingredients overall, Dior des Lices pampers the well-heeled clients. This summer, the sun-lit social space that turns into a romantic restaurant in the evenings, was further plushed up. The bar was reshuffled into a cosy music lounge, a new tailed carpet added a cleaner feel, while more plump chairs increased comfort. Bellow are pictured the more simple plates at Dior des Lices prior to its recent luxing-up. Further down follow the most recent dishes.
French saladbest in St Tropez

Contemporary renderings of Mediterranean food

The menu at Dior des Lices changes each season in St Tropez. Some dishes remain familiar, but the gazpacho might include a new twist, the brioche of the burger may be updated and the risotto instead of the usual rice may be replaced by spelt or kamut. Some of the food was more delicious before than certain recent renderings on the carte. The friendly staff listens, so I am confident in them ironing any creases up for the years to come. For the food I prefer lunch, for the atmosphere, the evening setup is much more entertaining.
snacks
Before the meal, creative savory snacks arrive with an order of a cocktail (house specials include champagne spiked cucumber fizz), wine (French) or a glass of champagne (Dom Perignon vintage or Moet Chandon). The fresh bread comes plain with its southern accompaniment in the liquid form as an olive oil, the superb Brittany butter is served upon request.
Our favourite plates at Dior des Lices in St Tropez include the gazpacho. This year elevated with a cucumber, strawberry, tomato and basil leaf skewer, wild strawberries and a basil sorbet for a more powerful refreshing effect. Perfect at a scorching summer lunch. The lunch salads are clean yet original. We love them all. The Nicoise with an added raw courgettes and quail eggs instead of the usual chicken’s is my husband’s must lunch on.
vegan St Tropezsummer light food
summer tasteFrench salad
The Bucolic salad with raw cucumber, fennel, zucchini, and grilled avocado with broccoli florets, seasoned with fresh oregano leaves and yuzu vinaigrette and is superb accompaniment to a heavier plate such as the burger. The later can be upped by an aged cheddar, grilled ceps or grilled pork belly. To the buttery brioche splattered generously with ketchup (unfortunately soaked the bottom part of the bun to a mushy pastry), a leaf of lettuce, a succulent slice of tomato under a chunky beef patty, we added the melted cheese. Served with perfectly crisp fries, the salad came in handy. We were disappointed by the unmatchable Burrata with spelt grains, and bland green nut-free pesto.
best burger in St Tropez
The menu slightly changes at dinner when the superb, lean steak with mashed potatoes and grilled giant cep mushrooms, some extra pasta (linguine with lobster are superb) and other more weighty dishes replace some of the lighter lunch plates. We loved the steak, cooked medium plus rare upon request, served with a decadent sauce that you can add abundantly over the lean beef fillet. At dinner once I got the order wrong as either my ultra-chic Dior eggs with caviar were horrible – the cold runny egg ruined all my pleasure from the expensive caviar cum smoked fish and sour cream dish. Also the Asian lobster ravioli had missed the Asian fragrant point as they were bland and undercooked. The superb French Comtè cheese and bread fixed my palate on that weak night!
Luxe St TropezAsian style ravioli

Luxurious French wine list nods to St Tropez glam

The wine list is intensely influenced by the LVHM stable. A Moet by the glass, Domaine Lambrays Burgundy, and Cheval Blanc for the fortunate, but also some local rosè not breaking the bank. The coravin allows pouring a €160 glass of the Clos de Lambrays Grand Cru Monopole Pinot Noir or Petit Cheval, the second label under the Cheval Blanc star.
rare Burgundy wine

Sweet afternoons at Dior des Lices

House-fresh fragrant iced-tea, Nespresso coffee, iced upon request or spiked with a scoop of ice cream as I like it in the summer are perfect at lunch. The sorbets ventured into uncharted waters with creative flavors easily competing with the local ice cream sweetheart Barbarac.
The afternoon tea treats at Dior des Lices in St Tropez are very popular thanks to the pastry chef’s elegant skills, with the Dior choux and eclairs landing on every other table. Very good, not the best, but I am a perfectionist and choux fanatic, beware. Breakfast offer includes the classics like the French viennoisserie, egg dishes, bread and jams, next to freshly pressed juices.
Comte cheese
Alléno’s team translates his twists on some French, but mainly Italian dishes with an overall precision. From its inception over five years ago, we have enjoyed the evolving culinary offerings served in the lush garden. Open from late spring, throughout the summer until early October the provençal house of Dior feeds your aesthetic soul with updated decadence for today’s tastes.
13 Rue François Sibilli, 83990 Saint-Tropez, France
+33 4 98 12 67 65
Daily from May until second week in October 10am-midnight


Tropicana La Plage: Tarte Tropezienne on the Pampelonne beach serves the best live music around St Tropez

Tropicana La Plage brings the authentic beach spirit of St Tropez to the new, eco-conscious millennium. Rejuvenating the highly commercialised beach, meant going more upscale, moving some structures further inland and building them so they can be easily disassembled during the off season for the flora and the sand to ‘breathe’. While nature was granted a well deserved facelift over the new French law protecting the sandy dunes, some successful establishments had to close down, others were rebuilt and some privately owned patches like the legendary Club 55 just stayed as they were.
French film posterSt Tropez beach dining
Tropicana had to be pushed a bit inland, keeping the beach bar and chairs in the front of the less party, more quality time focused stretch of Pampelonne closer to Ramatuelle. Losing a snap of the beach view that the family-friendly restaurant enjoyed before the broad revamp did not transform the experience into lesser grounds, rather the two level space feels better than before, while the food is close to the best in the vicinity of St Tropez. Our locally-based Parisian friends nodded to the realness of Tropicana.
Saint Tropez beach diningSt Tropez cake

St Tropez tradition meets contemporary taste: Tarte Tropezienne et co.

The well-looked-after smart child of the owner of the Tarte Tropezienne offers quality ingredients skillfully cooked into Mediterranean delectables in unpretentious atmosphere. A live band strokes the chords of bossanova as you relish the bounty off the white-cloth tables under the shading pines mingling with umbrellas. Dig your feet into the sand on the lower side, or feast cosied under the roofed part. You get more private space at Tropicana than at most other high-end restaurants on Pampelonne. No elbowing and cigarettes in your face of the Club 55 glitz and who is who, but more elegant and balanced lunch occasion.
French pastryTropicana La Plage
The original bakery and café on Place des Lices sparked up to fame by Brigitte Bardot and the film crew behind And God Created a Woman, the sexy 60s blockbuster that landed Pampelonne on the star-studded echelon of summer voyaging. The sweet-tooth teasing Tarte Tropezienne pastries, a white plain or cereal bread served whole on your table with a knife to slice and ice cream from Barbarac, by far the best glacier in the area (try pistachio, straciatella or natural yogurt) are prepared locally off-site. For a gourmand coffee after the meal order the Café St Tropez – your choice of Nespresso coffee with four mini tropezienne tarts in different flavours. The famous cake is essentially a dense, flavoured cream sandwiched in a springy brioche topped with granulated sugar.
vegan St TropezGluten free St Tropez

Tropicana La Plage: Mediterranean food for millennial tastes

Beyond its famous cakes and baked goods sold in its cafes all over South of France, Tropicana whips Mediterranean dishes with a touch of trendy plates like superb, fresh ceviche, or a vegan platter of crisp chickpea fritters, citrus-fresh quinoa salad (also offered as a single starter in a larger bowl), olive and anchovy dip and fresh vegetable crudites cater to all diets and palates. You can order a side of the panisses fritters or superb house french fries golden and roughly cut with skin on. Other gluten free dishes, daily catch paraded around for you to select from, superb thinly pounded veal, pasta, and daily specials like a refreshing gazpacho, goat cheese tart and a different dessert from the pastry chef each time broaden your options at Tropicana. As a generous starter, the French fresh goat cheese, grilled peppers, olives and toasted bread at Tropicana might be too much for one person, but as a main this locally sourced plate works. From the classics, the ham with summer ripe melons shows these pure ingredients at their best. For a shared meal, the 1.2 kg whole roasted chicken served with whole roasted young potatoes fills you up till a late night.
Mediterranean foodSt Tropez dining
My favorites include the fried calamari rings, parsley (not too oily, perfectly crisp) with lemon wedges and house mayonnaise, while my husband cannot go without the generous serving of his favorite eggplant parmigiana, in olive oil and tomato sauce baked eggplant with melted parmesan cheese. The Nicoise garbanzo panisse fritters are a must order and so are the pastries by Tarte Tropezienne.
detox juiceglace Barbarac
To drink, the aperol spritz aperitif is served with fresh citrus, and the wine list is narrowed down to French, mainly Provencal bottles. Non-alcoholic smoothies and detox juices (my husband’s favorite is the Green Boost), tea and herbal tisanes, iced coffee for a much needed pick-me up round any meal up. being on the beach though, I would strip the cocktails and juices off the plastic straws since the greatest pollution in our oceans is due to the plastic waste. There are plenty compostable alternatives.
St Tropez has suffered from the influx of careless party-goers and cheep tourism over recent years, but with more businesses of local quality, such as Tropicana La Plage, I glimpse a more authentic return to the bygone era of Southern French glamour.


Semilla: buzzing market cuisine for locavore foodies in Saint Germain

Semilla fills an authentic yet contemporarily-aligned french niche in Saint Germain created by the expats and tourists flocking into Cafe Flore, Brasserie Lipp et al. This millennial Parisian bistro has been for over a decade drawing in regulars of all ages – local or seasonal visitors like ourselves – to its convivial, fast-paced, casual and transparent, industrial hip womb.
contemporary bistro Parisbistros in Paris
The clipped paper menu (only in French as usually) hangs on the stone wall of Rue de Seine. Passing by, we always peak what is cooking. Sometimes casually walking in, other times reserving a table on the go. The founders Juan Sanchez and Drew Harré literally own this snippet of a street. Their Fish project across, a tapas concept Cosi next door, a wine bar, what is next?

Market cuisine plated small

The ‘seed’ of Semilla is creativity that daily sprouts from the Parisian markets and its chefs called up by the grand eye of Eric Trochon, M.O.F in 2011. The chefs’ rooster changes frequently. We sampled the cuisines of Matthieu Roche, Thomas Estrader, and now Pablo Thiollier-Serran whips the seasonal delectables, creating and changing recipes as the produce arrives into the kitchen. Pure Cuisine selon le marché. Some menu items disappear at lunchtime, and if you come for a late dinner on a Sunday night, the order options can shrink substantially. God, I craved that agnolotti pasta with house ricotta!
Paris casual eatsbest bistro cuisine in Paris
The majority of their superb quality edibles is sourced as locally as possible. From the best maraichers, gourmet providers like Terroir d’avenir next door from Frenchie, another popular bistro in Paris, French butchers and the wild-caught fish and seafood are delivered mainly from the Atlantic ocean. Current produce providers are always highlighted on the menu. In contrast to nearby Ze Kitchen Gallery, another contemporary bistro favourite of ours, the plates are distinctively European. There are no Asian intrusions on Semilla’s simple, monochromatic service. Rather, the French tradition, the Gallic meadows, mountains, rivers and seas are the source for innovation here.
contemporary bistro cuisinecochon
Semilla does special lunch menus for a fixed price. Usually, a trio of starters like tapas served on one plate. Including a soup – like Onion velouté or Artichoke bouillon with mushrooms. Accompanied by a seasonal play of vegetal notes like Beetroot salad with hazelnuts or small fish course like Mackerel escabèche (maquereau). The third bite, when we went, was always a variation of Parmesan sablé topped with mushroom or olive cream.
Followed by a fish, meat or vegetarian main course of your choice. Pork (cochon) as much as French beef (beuf), with its race specified on the menu (also from Belgium), often enter the carnivorous plates. Only once over the years, we got a plate cooked badly. A bland slice of pork with overcooked green peas and stringy artichoke barigoule recently reminded us of the school meals one eats with a sour face, boring. On the veggie side, once at lunch I enjoyed the main plate of Roasted Carrots with verbena, spinach cream and lentils. Desserts follow further down.
Paris bistroAsparagus and morrels

Semilla: vegetarian friendly as a contemporary bistro should be

At dinner, a la carte offers more flexibility. The starters are tapas size, but Semilla had to add some large plates in Paris to qualify as a bistro. Steak or fish like Crusted hake with mushrooms, cilantro and I relished once, satisfy. I often go for the vegetarian starters like the exquisite Green peas with its iced husk cream, savory and Corsican fresh brocciu cheese (sheep’s) and the refreshing sweet Beets with fresh cheese, green mayo and granita on a hot summer evening. Green asparagus was still in season and so were the champignons femme fatale – the morels, so by combining the two with oxidative Vin Jaune from the Jura in a cream sauce I was flying high! Cheese often slips into many vegetarian plates at Semilla. Fresh goat cheese in beets with granita, parmesan with hazelnuts in a sable for an indulgent vegetarian plate.
French bistroParis bistro cuisine

À partager — to share

Pour terminer either a dessert or artisanal farm cheese touches your palate with a powerful finale. While seasonal fruits drive the sweet offer, with sorbets popping on the dessert plates during the summer, traditional pastries like Calissons, Clafoutis or Financiers are updated for contemporary tastes. Sansho pepper, sesame ice cream and even vegetables (as in green pea sorbet) freshen up the sugar-touched temptations at Semilla.
As cheese lovers we incline to Semilla’s impeccably sourced fromages. Ossau-Iraty, hard ewe’s milk cheese from Northern Basque Country and the only AOC cheese of the Pyrénées, pampered us once. There are only a handful of producers of this balanced yet deep nutty tasting elastic cheese, so try when you see it. Blue Fourme d’Ambert, fresh goat’s cheese, Tomme du Jura, aged Comtè or niche unpasteurised cheeses are served with a bowl of market leafy greens.
vegetarian bistro Paris
There are always wine suggestions, moods of the moment, that the sommelier highlights on the menu. We like to sample by the glass offerings, nothing fancy, but some worthwhile discoveries. The wine list is Francophile, with practical pitcher option for many bottles. Coffee roasted locally, while tea was selected by a French tea master, and the tisanes (verbena, lemon balm, linden, mint, orange flowers) are organic.
You can sit in the open room sided by the bar counter and opened into the kitchen where all the hum physically competes with the aural noise fuming from the diners’ mouths. Tucked on a side, there is a tighter space with alluring photographs of fresh produce hanged on the white-cast walls. Unlike the user-unfriendly reservation system of Septime in the Marrais, Semilla feels more authentic, less pretentious hip and more accomodating. No need to prepay, just casually pop in and eat well.
As with many other establishments in France, €500 bills  (“except for a tip”, how amusing!) and Amex are not accepted.
54 rue de Seine, Paris 6
+33 143 543450
Daily for lunch 12:30-14:30; Dinner from 19h.


Best bakeries in Paris: best traditional bread, organic loaf from ancient grains, baguette, croissant and pain au chocolat

Long comme un jour sans pain, long as a day without bread, the idiomatic French saying captures what along with butter and cheese, well might be a true national dish in the country of bakers. Bread and butter on the French national flag could eradicate any confusions. Excellent news for some of you is that since 1993, all bread in boulangeries in France must be entirely made on the premises. In the abundance of excellence, I cannot stop at selecting just top five bakeries in Paris. I am sharing all my favourites for their diversity – best bread, organic loaf from ancient grains, creative baked slices, baguette, croissant and pain au chocolate. For brioche, I need to return and scout for more, since some bakeries only sell it on weekends! A dozen samples of brioche in one day, anyone?
French breadbio baguette

Best ‘miche’

Every real Parisian has a favourite bakery, usually in their neighbourhood so the bread’s crisp, fresh fragrance of wheat, and soft, holes-ridden mie (the crumb interior) are eaten as soon as they come out from the oven. Unless, you are a customer of Poilâne, whose iconic, giant, round country loaf (known as miche) baked in their wood-fired ovens can be delivered to your door. Some old traditions do not die even with the new generation taking over the family business. Poilâne has expanded its production beyond its lovely Rue du Cherche-Midi home-base. The exports ship from an outside of Paris “Le Manufacture“, yet when in Paris get yours baked here. Occasionally, tours underground into its flour-dusted cellar, allow to sniff the leavened fragrance in full. Aside from its sturdy pain campagne, I like their flaky buttery puff pastry topped with caramelised apples. Enjoy this sweet treat in their convenient next door café.
Traditional baguette

Best sourdough fro ancient grains

For bread, I asked my local friends, and was fortunate, indeed, to taste the wonderful organic sourdough from Le Bricheton [50 Rue de la Reunion, 7520]. In their authentic, young French neighbourhood of Saint Denis, far beyond the tourist zone, Maxime shapes loaves from wholesome grains (spelt, rye, even a chestnut). A true artisan, his opening hours are reduced to two hours only on some days, the Sundays, Mondays and other random days (check their Facebook page for actualities).
best bread in Paris
Paris gourmandise
Recently, Alain Ducasse browsed in, and the social media went buff, the proud locals lauded the baker as their king. Coincidentally, I enjoyed his chocolate with Le Bricheton bread the past fall in my hotel bed. A wonderful pairing! The secret is no longer, so I can share it with you. The multi-Michelin chef was impressed, nodding he will be back.
sourdoughreal croissant
French breadFrench baguette

Best baguette

The best golden crusted, white sourdough (au levain) baguette was brought to my attention by the legendary three Michelin starred chef Alain Passard, who loves the pain au levain sourdough loaf from Stéphane Henry. A discreet artisan boulanger in the not so trendy end of Canal St Martin, the only buyers are workers or residents from the area. I bought as much as my reusable cotton bag could carry. Soon, chewing on the sunshine crust with an airy mie center, I was smitten. I preferred it to the bien cuite hard crusty baguette traditionelle. Also their buttery, large, soft and fragile crusted croissant, chewed so moist that I will return! The sourdough (sliced upon request) surprisingly lasted for three days in my hotel room. Tasting great with the butter I got at Terroirs Sans Avenir, my favorite produce vendor. The cheesy olive, ham, tomato savoury rolls rival my other favourite bakery’s creations.

Best pain au chocolat

I have been indulging at Du Pain et des Idèes for years. Every journey by Eurostar stops over at the nearby boulangerie. North of Canal Saint Martin, this is now a hip area, ripe with artisan temptations. Their chocolatine pain au chocolat is my absolute winner. For more sweet delights still, the seasonal tarte finne – cherries in June, apricots in July, figs in August, while apples and pears are laid on the puff pastries in fall – are unmissable.

The croissants are too soft, bending like gummy bears and the twisted sacristians are too sugary for me, but a true sweet tooth will surely relish them. I am not a fan of their organic bread though, the pain des amis is most popular, but the savoury mini rolls fit perfectly into a paper bag to carry on a train or taxi ride. The organic goats cheese and spinach is my coup de coeur, while my husband is puff into the farm bacon with reblochon cheese and dried figs, also bio. I can never stop at one. Sublime!
Rue Du Turenne bakery

Best croissants

Croissants are a thorny theme for the Parisans, for everyone has his/her personal preference. The best croissant for me is the mini roll of perfect buttery layers that like my granny’s strudel peel off as you pull them with your horny fingers around. How fun! Like a child, most recently I relished in the two-horned cone’s perfection at a nearby green park. Nesting under a chestnut tree with a friend, it made our day. No leftovers for the always asking pigeons. A family business since 1859, Benjamin Turquier of RDT received the best croissant award in 2015, so expect a small snaky lane sticking its tail out of the tiny bakery on Rue Du Turenne. Using only AOP butter is costly, but simple baked pastries do not keep secrets – they shout the quality of the sparse ingredients inside! His chunky studded chocolate bread is only good when ultra fresh, while the pain au chocolat peels of like the croissant and is good, but does not reach the magnificence of Du Pain et des Idèes.
Le meuilleur croissaneFrench pastry

Best creative bread

Organic bakeries have sprung up with the ‘bio’ trend swiping over France. Some are rather amateurish, while others bake better and more creative breads than other “normal” boulangeries. The indulgent breads at De Belles Manières bakery in Paris are the most original and creative slices I have had the salivating pleasure trying. Their low gluten, red and white quinoa bread (Le Pain des Incas) matches cheese wonderfully, while their black olive slice is decadent on its own. Flat, shaped like a focaccia, the sourdough starter and abundant ancient grains inspire some of the flavours. Long and narrow, the pistachio and cranberry bread, with Emmental cheese-filled loaf, dried fruits, as well as the simple, perfectly baked spelt or rye and baguettes lure in the Marais crowd. Winning the best organic bread award recently stamps its appeal.
pain bio Paris
Patricia Wells, the renowned restaurant critic, for three decades Paris resident and author of The Foodlover’s Guide to Paris put it well: “Bread is life. It’s food that makes you feel good, feel healthy; food that goes well with everything”. Unless you are a cealiac, a quality, sourdough-based bread should not rise any regrets. I cannot more agree with her, writing: “The good French loaf is made with respect for the simple nature of the ingredients: wholesome, stone-milled wheat grown in France; a fresh sourdough starter (levain) or yeast (levure); pure water; and a minimum of salt.” The only extra touch in the creative, curious contemporary world is that the grains used expand beyond wheat, making eating bread perhaps even more exciting experience.

The best bakeries in Paris I selected use often organic, local ingredients, are all purely artisanal, do not have chains all over France and abroad, summed up, you must try them all on your next visit to the metropolis of fine food!


Best tea rooms in Paris selling their own tea

Paris tea culture has evolved tremendously over the past twenty years since I visited the enchanting French capital for the first time. Beyond the established commercial giants and the ‘historic’ Parisian maisons du thé, the new wave of authentic tea rooms welcome the tea curious. Here, you find quiet or an intimate conversation if you desire. Tea is my daily bread and I travelled the world to visit hundreds of tea rooms and shops, therefore I offer a global perspective while seeking local nuances.Paris tea

The best tea rooms for me NOW in Paris: authentic, boutique, quality, savoir-faire

For me, the best tea rooms now in Paris are all small in size, their owners are passionate about tea like authentic wine growers, still not commercially scaled, intimate, sustainably-minded, and offer specialist and personal advice.
My choices offer a substantially less touristy experience and their teas are top quality. Some are more creative, other purist, offering traditional teas in a contemporary designed tea room.

As most Asian businesses in Paris, these are also located in the triangle between the Marrais, Saint Germain and the Opera. I selected these not just for the quality of the tea, the staff’s knowledge, but also for their distinct atmosphere.

tea shop in Paris
ARTEFACT is perfect for newcomers as well as seasoned tea drinkers open to trying niche pure teas. Each tea is described by its aroma and characteristic taste, making any new choice easier. Artéfact also creates superb tea, fruit and herbal blends infusing them into the best iced tea I have tasted to date – based on black tea and fragrant flowers. From the pure teas, the hand-picked, directly sourced spring tea leaves of White Bud Puerh from Lincang in the Southern Yunnan Province of China delight with their floral sweet, deep resinous and malty taste. Each label on the loose leaf teas treats customers with transparency – from the exact sourcing, type of cultivar, production method and how to brew it for best result. Art exhibitions brighten the stone walls of the two floor boutique. 
MAISON DU THE PARISthe glacetea room in Paris

The duo behind KODAMA call themselves as “alchimistes infuseurs”. True to their ethos, you find the most interesting, while some very unusual blends named with a pinch of irony and perhaps even philosophy. Think Rehab Bio, La Vie Comme Elle Vient [Life as it goes], Tous les Chemins [All the paths], and the Sticky rice tea that I loved. The most popular in the heat of summer are the curated iced tea blends, in winter the chai latte warms you up. Yet, for me, the award winning master-roasted hojicha from Japan stroke the inquisitor’s mind. The whisky and cherry smoked ones a bit too much, but one-offs like this sparkle the cosy cocoon of Kodama. Colourful origami float above the tea bar, where daily fresh pastries seduce your sweet tooth or a rambling belly for a slice of cake. If the stools are not comfortable enough, snap the low tables at the back.

Kodama tea storeKODAMA

TERRE DE CHINE pioneered pure Chinese (including Taiwanese) teas brewed in traditional gong fu cha style, tasted (paid for unlike in most China) and sold with transparent labeling of the harvest month to authenticity seeking tea connoisseurs in Paris. For a quarter of a century the owner has educated parisians about tea terroir across China and proper preparation technique for each. From the well-known teas like Taiwanese easily pleasing oriental beauty oolong, floral elegant white teas from Fu Jian like Bai Hao Yin Zhen to single cru or top of the echelon rock teas and aged pu’er from Yunnan, the cradle of the tea plant, Terre de Chine is still one of the best tea rooms in Paris. Purist, no food is served and tea is the coup de coeur of conversation. There is a two seat bar and a few chairs along a table for the experience.

best tea in Paris CHINESE TEA IN PARIS

YAM’TCHA indeed is Yam. The name comes from Cantonese tea time with dim sum. Focused on well-known, top quality Chinese teas (white Silver Needles, legendary green Longjing, Tie Guan Yin oolong, Wu Yi rock tea, some raw – Sheng and ripened – Shou Pu’er, and others) plus baos and Chinese stuffed dumplings (dim sum). The fit is perfect and the minimalist, focused offer eases your mind into a pleasant state of tea’s magic. Impeccably curated by Hong Kong native husband of the Michelin starred French chef Adeline Grattard (of Netflix fame) whose restaurant is just around the corner. A dream couple! For the most calm time come either early or after the lunchtime rush. Must try is the melting English stilton bao, but the tofu-based vegetarian dim sum were great too.

Chinese tea in Paris

Chinese food in Paris 

JUGETSUDO is THE place in Paris for Japanese green tea. Zen your mind as the Japanese staff impeccably whisks a bowl of matcha at the massive wooden bar. As if I were in Tokyo. Just the design is more contemporary chic. Most of its green teas are now organic. The yuzu citrus flavoured series, seasonal spring cherry blossom scented sencha, roasted houjicha, and pastries by the celebrated Paris-based Japanese pastry chef Sadharu Aoki and Patisserie Tomo lure inside. Downstairs, rotating ceramics exhibitions, even an occasional tea ceremony ritual complement the cultural immersion. More recently, Jugetsudo succumbed to commercial opportunities. Collaborations with French chefs and candy manufacturers divert from the tea theme. Anne Sophie Pic created exotic flavoured tea blends, while Valrhona, the premium producer of professional chocolate, whipped up a matcha bar. I was hooked on the freeze-dried strawberries coated in matcha-infused white chocolate. Sampling great things is dangerous. The mutual French affair with Japonisme continues to bring in the country’s talent and established brands.

Japanese tea Parismatcha

The best tea rooms in the millennial Paris not only sell a wide range of top quality tea, but shield from the enrapturing city noise. Swarms of tourists grouped into disruptive formations, fuming buses, and the chic-pax smokers on cafe patios escaping offices and store entrances stalk your sense of wellbeing. Pollution, the scorching summer heat or the deep chills of winter, whip you indoors where either a warm embrace or a cup of refreshing iced tea provide comfort (read about What tea time can do for you).


Silvacane Abbey: one of the three Cisterian treasures in Provence invites culture in

I reached the Silvacane Abbey on the spur of aesthetic and spiritual curiosity. After being intrigued by the island monks habitat on an island in the Mediterranean this summer, I craved more calm yet humanist spaces on my travel schedule. On the low season brink of winter and spring the journey’s reward was a peaceful visit. We literally opened the massive gate into the church, what followed was a pure bliss for the soul.
slow travel
The former Cisterian monastery near La Roque d’ Anthéron dwells just a brief drive from the mother and daughter restaurant La Feniere in Cadenet. As one of the Michelin stared establishments in Provence and a cosy b&b, La Feniere is a restful foreplay to replenishing one’s mind at the Silvacane Abbey.

Spiritual treats of the abbey

As the keeper penetrated the giant key hole of the massive red door, twisting and squeaky the opening revealed a vast, minimalist purity of the chilly cathedral. Mesmerised, heads turning up to the tall vaults, we gently laid our soles in a mindful path towards the light in the front. The morning sun shone through the glass windows, inviting warmth and peace. As we approached closer to the sandstone altar, chanting records begun filling the air. The monks choir echoed in the bare space. Magic, even when the sacral songs were not live, we felt the vibration of the deep, masculine voices.
A solitary flower in a transparent vase whispered with more lucidity than any art piece in the Louvre. Without other visual distractions, she was luring us with her charms.
There were other wings to discover, and a provencal garden to marvel at.
monastery in FranceAbbey in Provence

The aesthetic pleasures of the Silvacane Abbey

Founded around 1144, the medieval Cisterian monastery is known in French as L’ Abbaye de Silvacane. Its Romanesque architecture with characteristic semi-circular arches and vaults supported by decorative columns plays with light and darkness. The massive walls let geometric fragments of coloured light inside through the arched windows. The reflections on the limestone are art in themselves. Transforming with the day, dying with night’s darkness. The basilica remains barely touched, yet some artists took over some wings as their play field, installing wondrous pieces inside. Contrasting or merging with the surroundings.
Romanesque architecturearchitecture
The French Revolution shook its purpose for a while, when the abbey became a farm. Savvily reconstructed by the French government in the 1990s, the Silvacane Abbey now nurtures creativity. Art exhibitions such as the most recent mirrors by Etienne Rey fill its throbs with contemporary imagination. I found them perfectly fit, respectful of the building’s heritage.

Etienne REY is a French visual artist, who lives and works in Marseille. He explores the notion of space. Screens, mirrors, displacement, illusion are his tools to shift your visual perception. In May, this showcase will be replaced by another French artists Laurent Corvaisier. Concerts and other cultural programs run regularly on the premises.

Nature calling

Descend. The lavender and rosemary gardens in the inner yard cast magic on your ear. In spring, the bird concerto energises the air with such a vigour that a double espresso would hardly match. I could not unglue myself from one of the arches embroidering the joyful scene. The natural elements are accentuated in the quiet space.
The Durance River banks literally brush the property, yet it was the burbling stream to the left of the abbey that echoed the zen calm of the mind. Other visitors started to stream in. Never mind. Once you fully focus on the other world your mind flows.
I walked on the dirt roads around towards the monk’s cemetery. Not much is there today, but orchards and trees attract the bees and birds. Humming and fully at work in spring, their mission was to awaken the world with fertility.

Practical info for visiting the Silvacane Abbey

There is a limited parking just off the road near the entrance for your convenience. There are no trains or other direct public transport to the Silvacane Abbey. Guided visits daily in July and August (btw. 10:30am and 3:30pm), every Sunday from September to June (11am and at 2:30pm)upon request (8pax minimum). 
monastery in Provence
If you are hungry for more monastic beauty, drive further towards Lorgues to the Thoronet Abbey. The truffle region will also reward your palate. For a real celestial and gastronomic nourishment, just off the A8 Provençale near Brignoles, Alain Ducasse‘s Michelin restaurant cum luxury hotel literally rubs its walls with the Abbaye de la Celle. The vinous bounty and gastronomy of Luberon is also within the reach of the Silvacane Abbey, just keep heading North.
Read about its history on the Abbaye de Silvacane Wikipedia page.
 RD 561, 13640 La Roque d’ Anthéron, France
+33 4 42 50 41 69
Daily except Monday
Off-season: 10am–1pm, 2–5pm; From April till 5:30pm; June-September open nonstop 10am-6pm.


Find your inner balance at Villa La Coste in Provence

In the countryside north of Aix, the abstract palette of Cézanne finds its contemporary expression in the stellar art park of Château La Coste. The grandest names of contemporary architecture and art convene liberally on the property where the owner offered generously a carte blanche for creativity.

Inserted into the rolling curves of the vines is also the ‘Palace’ designated Villa La Coste. A bright hotel chiselled into a hillside nesting an eco spa and a gastronomic restaurant. From the vineyards converted into biodynamic through the organic “potager” of the chefs to “clean” cosmetics, here the contemporary toxic lifestyle gets a break in this nest of eco pampering for the body and the urban mind. Now, in spring is the best time to stay, but fall’s calming hues are pleasant too. I have been three times and will come back again, for the art commissions by the Irish owner, a generous and ambitious patron, keep sprouting.

Chateau La Coste Provence
Brazilian art
Shaded from the summer’s solar inferno, dug into a pine and oak forested ridge, the contemporary art cum architecture project lights sustainability as its mission and the wise step into the future. Bathe in the forest as the Japanese do (Shinrin Yoku), meditate on Tadao Ando‘s chairs, reflect on the pebble-paved pool surrounding his art centre and contemplate light at Ando’s modernist (a remake of a 16th-century chapel) tribute to Henri Matisse’s Chapelle du Rosaire in Vence. The chapel overlooks organic vineyards and gently flowing hills of Luberon. Behind the closed doors where a play with light awaits your wonder, still I was even more intrigued by the foursome tree spiking up in its yard. The Provencal spring scent of rosemary guided me further into the forest paths. Introspection while feeling the connection with nature, even the universe, organically weave into your mindset. There is another chapel down in the gardens, the crystal-clad walls contrast with the plant wall exterior in a striking balance of opposites.
contemporary architecture

Beauty, balance, nature

Balance also permeates some of the art installed at Château La Coste. The vast property is covered with vines, olive groves, art, contemporary architecture under its greatest names and a hillside forest that ushers you into the guest Villa. A Brazilian artist Tunga raised a sculptural allegory titled “Psicopompo (2011). A trio of steel, Chinese magnet, Bohemian crystal and Peruvian quartz named after a mythical Greek scale used to measure a man’s soul. Timeless art.

Less naturalist, the grandson of one of the greatest French painters of the past century, Paul Matisse installed his mechanised “Meditation Bell”. Its deep sound vibration echoes in a creek paved with lanterns. Lit at night for a contemplative stroll, it sparks those after-hours reserved to the hotel’s guests.
bed stories
The 28-suites and studios housing Villa La Coste make for the most luxurious accommodation in the entire Provence. You would have to travel to the Mediterranean coast to find anything comparable (like La Reserve de Ramatuelle). The most contemporary amenities were designed by the French Tangram and Hong Kong–based architect André Fu, complete with inserts like the glass and steel table by Jean Nouvel. Fu also created the airy bar, a cosy, with art, design, travel and classic literature books filled library, and the elemental spa. Light enters every inch of the Villa La Coste. An outdoor heated pool for leisurely dips, and lounging on the sun in the gardens by the restaurant keep the guests relaxed.
contemporary minimalist designcontemporary design

Spa time at Villa La Coste

The organic spa concept of east-meets-local ingredients was mastered by Aman‘s former spa director Greg Payne (London’s Connaught) embraces Provence into the spacious holistic escape. Organic oils, natural salts, grains, seeds in customised scrubs, scented muds tinted by natural pigments, and cosmetics by the British brand Ilá to pamper your face welcome all seeking rejuvenation and rest.
Across two floors, about a dozen of treatment rooms include one couples and a solo vaulted hamam for the scrubs and floating mud wraps. Inside the Villa La Coste spa you feel a monastic sense of harmony. Enveloped in a relaxing mud wrap on the zero-gravity flotation bed, the treatment eased my sore muscles and the mind. My query about the sound crystal bowl displayed at the spa lobby, vibrated an extra meditative touch into my zen cure. After showering it off, the therapist spread a nourishing butter all over my body so the skin-drying mud was balanced to perfection.
hamammud
For anytime release, a coed dry sauna and a steam room invite all guests to pleasant heat therapy.
Veiled in a blanc muslin enveloping the lounge chairs, we sipped on organic tea and a late-afternoon tisane another day post-treatment prepared by our therapists. Water bottles accompany your every step all around the property, in-room they are included in your rate to keep you hydrated and plump.
spa art

Sustainable art born of luxury

Villa La Coste is an oenophile dreamscape of the Irish real estate magnate Paddy McKillen. With his former stakes in London’s top tier hotels (Claridges, The Berkeley and The Connaught) he was not a newcomer into the luxury accommodation sector. Nevertheless, here in Provence, the vineyards are the centrepiece around which all the artworks manifest. Back to nature in a sustainable business model is the halo for the future. Tadao Ando’s PAVILLON “FOUR CUBES TO CONTEMPLATE OUR ENVIRONMENT” massively illustrate the damaging vanities of our society. As if underlining the importance of climate, most of the artworks are exposed to the natural elements – frost, heat, wind, rain – collaborate on the evolution of each installation. The unfinished art, the change will draw you back.
Chateau La Costeenvironmental art
The art park in the vineyards, olive groves, and rosemary patches surrounded by chestnut and oak forests is a work in progress anyway. The world’s most astute artists are invited to propose their vision. Some succeed in having their oeuvre realised, others may wait for years before their sketch is brought to form, some will not leave their mark on the estate. For me the most naturalistic and meditative is the damp cave of darkness-invites-light “Oak Room” (2009) by British artist Andy Goldsworthy. Weaved inside the estate’s ancient Roman walls, untreated salvaged oak wood from Burgundy was used as the organic material in this minimal waste artwork. Previous yoga retreats at Villa La Coste used it for a morning practice, but I cannot imagine keeping my limbs aligned and still inside this cold cellar.

Château La Coste is a truly international project of the greatest creative minds. The French landscapist Louis Benech (Tuileries gardens in Paris) created the orderly organic gardens, while the Chinese dissident Ai Weiwei recycled the cobblestones from Marseille’s recently renovated old port. The “Ruyi Path” symbolises power and good fortune, while it bridges the old Roman and the new estate routes.

Nurturing art at Villa La Coste

Frank Gehry’s open-air “Pavillon de la Musique” hosts concerts each June. Dug bellow the vines, the Château La Coste Art Gallery by Renzo Piano Building Workshop, invites regular exhibitions in its glass cum concrete underground structure. A photo gallery near the wine tasting room allows space for the camera art. Strolling with my Leica, capturing the objects and moods that flirted with my eyes, I realised that so much at the Château and Villa La Coste is a play with light, an exchange between art and nature. I was mesmerised.
So much more awaits you. Get some sneakers ready for the gravely stroll and participate in the two hours lasting Art & Architecture Walk in English daily at 2:30pm.
Inside the villa, the art, design and travel focused library nourishes your intellect, while the playroom behind awakens the inner child.
dining at Villa La Costebrunch
Dining at Villa La Coste entitles the staying guests to a healthful, delicious breakfast served in the lobby cafe or laid in your room on a glass table by Jean Nouvel. Topped either with a polished stainless-steel sculpture by Tom Shannon (the artists behind the “Drop”) or another unique oeuvre, perhaps a Damien Hirst print. Local dairy, creative assortment of breads – I love that loaf with figs, incredible house jams with slivers of oranges and chunks of peaches, daily smoothies served with custom-made eco bamboo straws, poached, scrambled or eggs Benedict, even gluten-free pancakes, all prepared with the greatest care. The minibar’s almonds and daily refreshed fruit basket make for ideal, balancing snacks. In chocolate-coated almonds and the estate wines in the room are ripe for the indulgent moments.
Villa La Coste in ProvenceVilla La Coste dining
The restaurant is no longer helmed by the Marseille’s three Michelin chef Gérald Passédat, but the original team serves a decent French cuisine overseen conceptually by another starred chef Helene Darozze. The wine cellar is international. A fire pit teases tastebuds just a short jeep ride on the property, where Francis Mallmann’s Patagonian fire cuisine rock and rolls any palate in a casual in and outdoor setup. Even vegetarians and vegans find some superb plates in Mallmann’s Argentina meets Provencal cuisine. Unlike his Miami branch at the Faena superficiality and I dare to say better than his 1881 restaurant in Mendoza where I dined over a decade ago.
I will return, hopefully to my favourite suite where the pines seclude me behind the desired inches of privacy set apart from the public field of art. An olive tree planted just behind the bathroom window soothes you as you bathe in the extra large egg shaped marble bath. Aaah, balance feels so good!


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