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CLOSED Tanya’s Raw in Chelsea: London’s first superfood cocktail bar and raw food

Tanya’s Raw is a “superfood” cafe cum cocktail bar in the chic part of London. Situated in contemporary designed My Hotel Chelsea, Tanya’s Raw buzzes with healthy looking and enthusiastic staff in a comfortable and bright environment. “Everything at Tanya’s is raw living, plant-based, hand-picked, organically grown, ethically sourced, and free from refined sugar, dairy or gluten.”

Personal health struggle turned into a business as Tanya’s Raw grows

The plant-based cafeteria was ideologically nourished by a personal healing experience through vegetable juicing after a serious car accident, that left then a teenage Tanya unable to consume any solid food. “I healed instinctively on juices. Mint tea with Manuka honey was the first think I could have without throwing up at the hospital after the car accident seriously damaged my inner organs.” Vegetable juices followed and, to the kiwi doctors awes, she recovered. Tanya’s Raw Cafe in Chelsea, therefore serves cold-pressed juice blends, potent elixirs as well as pour-over coffee, one of the rare hot beverages in the house. Of a Russian origin, she grew up with her family in New Zealand and only in her twenties moved to the UK, where she curated her raw diet for years before opening with a partner Tanya’s Raw.
The passion translates in the kitchen as slow food made from scratch from organic seeds, nuts, spices, natural sweeteners, vegetables, and fruits. Having a breakfast just after the highly successful launch about two years ago, and a couple of lunches in various seasons, I can confidently nod to Tanya’s consistent appeal and development of the food, but wary of not so seasonal and mostly not locally grown menu challenging to source on the British Isles.
Having interviewed the co-founder Tanya Alekseeva, in the first days after opening, then a fresh 30 years old woman just before getting married, adopting a new surname (Maher) and pregnancy, gave me a well-rounded perspective of where Tanya’s Raw is heading. Serving energetically sufficient and nutritionally balanced raw foods in London has proven to be “the most difficult thing about serving raw food in London”, confessed the brain behind the recipes, nutritionist, and certified health coach. Locally sourced ingredients are hardly realistic. Despite having about 20 suppliers, for example finding an avocado, the popular “creamer” in raw recipes, during all seasons is not pliable so creativity thrives.

Experience raw from breakfast, lunch through desserts and cocktail hour

I am not a fan of the almost flavorless tiger nut “milk” served with the organic pour over coffee, in itself superb. From the morning warmers, the date sweetened and almond protein enriched My Hug in a Mug of immunity boosting Medicinal Mushroom Latte as well as the inflammation reducing Golden Turmeric Latte won my taste buds over. From the juices, if you are concerned about the taste, not just the potential “health benefits”, then My Vision (carrot, orange, turmeric, mango and juices) is delectable. For a late breakfast (they open at 10am on weekdays, 11am weekends) or brunch, I quite liked the Aussie-inspired savory Avo un-toast, which is a dehydrated onion bread based on sunflower seeds, raisins and the odorant bulbs, topped by a smashed avocado and chilli flakes, is one option, but the date sweet Grawnola based on sprouted buckwheat and served with coconut yogurt is the most popular.

My menu favorites include the creamy side of the pesto-hued Herbed Almond and Cashew Ricotta dip with the superb, sweet carrot sticks. The founder’s favorite plate are the Thai Curry Kelp Noodles, that have been on the menu from the start, and I liked them too for their light spicy kick, plenty of fragrant sprouts and seasonal vegetables versatility. As most of Tanya’s recipes, traveling has been a well of inspiration for the mother of a nine-month baby girl named beautifully – Lake. The author of The Uncook Book. From her travel-inspired Adventure Salad bowls, that I tried I loved the pickle-rich Europa Adventures including the marvelous spiced-up Korean carrots (also available as a small side dish) and smoked pepper hummus. The deep white plate was decorated with powdered matcha and by the US chef, Matthew Kenney inspired flower, that I also adore at the Milan’s best raw restaurant Mantra. Tanya confessed that her admiration for Kenney sparked because “he produces art on the plate”. The almond and cashew ricotta, sundried tomato paste and walnut meat stuffed courgette Lasagna are superb, while the Nori wrap was perhaps too mushroomy fermented tasting, yet both remind me of Kenney’s plates at his now closed M.A.K.E in Santa Monica. The raw burger that was popular after the opening yet has thus far vanished from the menu.

Raw foods: good for everyone and any ingredient?

In order to grasp the raw “uncooking”, the definition by the European Food Information Council [EUFIC] of what is cooking helps: “Cooking is the process of producing safe and edible food by preparing and combining ingredients, and (in most cases) applying heat. Cooking is a means of processing food, without which many foods would be unfit for human consumption.” Often, the reason behind why most contemporary raw (heated bellow 47^oC) food public eateries stick to a plant-based diet, is safety. The EUFIC warns; “at temperatures over 70^oC most bacteria are killed and below 5^oC most food poisoning bacteria can only multiply slowly or not at all”. Raw food is served at room temperature and prepared using maximum 46ºC heat so the bacteria can possibly thrive in the unpasteurized, cold-pressed, raw juices. They must be kept in refrigerator from the moment they were made. Still, either Salmonella and Listeria monocytogenes can thrive in unwashed vegetables as in animal produce, therefore it is important to store and clean the veggies thoroughly. Some foods are rendered edible by the physical and chemical transformation during cooking, and some vegetables are even poisonous when eaten raw! Therefore, you will not find potatoes on the raw menus. Ideally, inform yourself of what ingredients are suitable for consumption in their raw form. This is also why well-established and for safety scanned raw cafes, juiceries and restaurants like Tanya’s Raw are very useful.

Cooking is a very complex process and if you are concerned about nutrition and digestion then you must consider each ingredient on an individual meter. For example, certain carcinogenic compounds (nitrosamines) are formed during specific methods of cooking such as grilling, smoking and other high heat processing. Sulfurous compounds add flavor in baked biscuits, bread or in cooked meat, but they can upset sulfate sensitive individuals. The EUFIC further warns that “water-soluble vitamins, in particular, are heavily affected by cooking processes that involve immersing food in water for long periods of time, and fat-soluble vitamins tend to be lost during cooking processes where foods are cooked in fat.” The raw foodists are right that enzymes in food are killed by heat, and our body has to work extra hard to produce its own enzymes to digest and absorb the nutrients from the food. Yet, it is not black or white.
On the other spectrum of the cooked versus raw contest is the fact that “heating itself does not affect mineral levels but they are usually leached if cooked in boiling water” (EUFIC). Further, “many of the nutrients contained in foods are not readily accessible prior to cooking and thus, cannot be easily digested by the body.” Take onion, that I have troubles eating raw, but when you serve it to me cooked, I have no difficulties digesting it comfortably. Yes, you kill some of the heat sensitive Vitamin C, but the balancing consideration is all about finding what suits you. One person is fine with raw veggies and nuts, while another’s body has a hard time producing the necessary enzymes to break it down. “Cooking foods containing starch (e.g., cereals and vegetables) aids the action of amylase and the consequent digestibility of the carbohydrate component of the food.” Pregnant women, vulnerable babies and small children are warned against the potential harm of consuming raw food. But again phytochemicals and pigments such as chlorophyll in green vegetables are degraded during long cooking with a fat. Carotenoids in direct contact with air undergo oxidation, but using lid or pressure cooker can prevent this. Water-soluble anthocyanins and anthoxanthins should not be soaked or boiled for a long time. Stir-frying is the most pigment saving method to flavonoids…it is complex, I said.

The sugar versus “natural” sweeteners health battle

Tanya’s Raw Cafes proudly use only natural, mostly low GI sweeteners such as xylitol, stevia, but also dates (although unprocessed they are too high in fructose and glucose, with over 67% carbs beware), and raw agave. The cashew creamy Blueberry Cheesecake tantalises the taste buds of many female but also male customers. By indulging in it, your body will get a super antioxidant boost since one cake contains 4 and a half cups of blueberries! The Key lime pie and Carrot Cake are also being rotated on the daily dessert offer. In the real raw philosophy, desserts are consumed before a meal to get the digestive juices rolling.
Some of the cocktails and shooters contain responsibly sourced Manuka honey. Although limited to a small number of drinks, honey and bee pollen are the only two non-vegan ingredients used. Ethical sourcing is native to her business. The raw cocoa and cocoa butter are fair trade. Beware, though as Tanya warns that “your cravings might be telling you something different than omg! I need some chocolate now! It may be that your body is asking for magnesium after a stressful event or during women’s period.” Our nerves need magnesium. The body is smart. It knows what it needs. You better give it a raw dark chocolate that is more nutritious than the normal, with white sugar packed chocolate.

Tanya revealed something, that stroke me as a considerably shocking and controversial claim: “When you cook food you are addicted to sugar, think about an apple, what happens when it is baked? It turns sweeter because all the carbohydrates in the fruit have turned into sugar under the high heat. Raw foods are less sugary in their nature.” Indeed, cellulose, pectins, and starches in the apple are broken under heat into monosaccharides such as glucose.
This sweetening under heat depends on the raw material though. My chemistry background directed me to a well-trusted, scientifically sound research. I found that some cooking methods actually reduce the sugar taste of its carbohydrates and turn them into more bitter compounds. For example during caramelization when the most dark to black caramel are formed. [source: EUFIC]

Beyond cleansing, organic beer and wine: shaking up innovative and nutritious cocktails

Sipping on a cocktail as a vitamin and mineral boost? A purportedly rejuvenating supplement meets indulgence at Tanya’s Raw Cafe. Although the limited juice, raw soups and raw snacks incorporating cleansing programs are a significant part of Tanya’s raw business, there are many other delectables and organic beverages to rejuvenate through. Organic European wines, as well as gluten-free Czech lager, are imported, but it is the mixology behind the counter that steals the show. Superfoods like matcha, cacao and acai are blended with organic gin, tequila or vodka or rum. These superfood organic cocktails are Tanya’s raw signature creations.
You can now savor Tanya’s Raw at two locations: Tanya’s Chelsea, the original raw food restaurant and superfood cocktail bar; and Tanya’s Parson’s Green, a much smaller cold-press juice bar and a coffee shop. Recent pop-up at Selfridges for over a month this year promises more to come to London. Tanya hints: “Raw foodies are not our target market. Most raw food eaters prepare their food at home and rarely dine out. Myself, I try raw restaurants, eat there once or twice.” It is about balance, and having more health and nutrition focused restaurants at your convenience helps to create a better nourished life when you are out and about.
Tanya proves that her positive persona is not just a superficial posterity, but a deep belief, as she instinctively concluded our conversation: “I don’t believe that everybody is suited to eat 100%raw food, it’s important to include it in our diet but you should listen to your body for what it wants.” I cannot more agree.
35 Ixworth Pl, London SW3 3QX,
+44 20 7225 7538
Tue-Sat: 11am -10pm; Sun: 11am-4pm; Mon: closed

London Chocolate Show: where fashion meets indulgence

Smudging deliciously brown the sweet teeth of chocolate lovers, the London Chocolate Show, tempts through chocolates made in Britain, but also from Denmark, Italy, Spain, and as far East as Hong Kong and Taipei. The Chocolate Week, that has been for twelve years celebrating fine chocolate, peaks with the annual London Chocolate Show. Seductively introduced to the consumers, the cocoa-centric produce from the most exciting cocoa bean growing regions is joined by highly entertaining on-stage chef demos at The Chocolate Theatre and the madly popular Chocolate Fashion Show, widening the pupils in the curious eyes of the onlookers.
Here is a sneak peak on the lip-smacking fashion show. From cocoa-dusted brooches and other jewels, some pinned in the long hair, while others snaking around the sleek necks of the welcomingly colourful models, to white, milk and dark chocolate weapons carried by a Medieval man resembling model, all were made from the sweet delicacy.

Showing off on the London Chocolate Show

The best from the participating chocolates were awarded medals – gold, silver and bronze and a proud sticker to display on their packaging. The chocolate dessert of the year was also announced. Under the glass roofed expo room inside the London Olympia, I encountered some familiar faces and indulged in my old favourites such as the India-inspired confectionery by The Chocolatier, the brand name of its founder and chocolate maker Aneesh Popat. His lovely mother fed me aplenty with Aneesh’s fragrant water ganaches, hard to find around, unless you dine at one of the Michelin stared restaurants that serve them. From all these, the dark Rose & raspberry, Kulfi in white chocolate enrobed with pistachio, cardamom, saffron and a hint of fennel as well as the caramelised Japanese citrus Yuzu appealed the most to my taste buds, but he has much more to choose from.
At his stand were also presented the Hong Kong based superfood raw chocolates RAIZ THE BAR. Kosher, organic, paleo, vegan certified bars with spirulina, activated buckwheat, chia or rose with acai, all sweetened with coconut blossom nectar – were playing on the millennial chocolate note as a health food. Energise me, Passionate me, will, at least psychologically leave you feel rejuvenated.
From the first time public appearances I was struck by four. The highly bean-specific bars by LAND, the project by Phil Landers. The ex-Paul Young and Mast Brothers alumnus works bean to bar from the Central and South American cocoa, made into chocolate in Bethnal Green, East London. His Malt Dark chocolate bar from Honduras was outstanding, showing natural fragrances of coffee and with malt barley notes.
The Polish-born Marcin Rendak has been making chocolates in his native country for years, but recently he has decided to go more upmarket with his luxurious organic range OCTO Chocolate. Launching for the first time at the Chocolate Show, the beautifully designed rose gold veined leafs print on pure white or black paper boxes, enchanted many visitors. The Almonds coated in raw chocolate with coconut water do not contain coco water, but are sweetened by the healthier coconut blossom nectar. What’s important though is that they taste more like a milk chocolate, while being dairy-free as all of the OCTO vegan-certified edible luxuries.
Yu Chocolatier is a truffle-focused exotic import, not yet represented in Europe, by chef Yu Hsuan Cheng based in Tapei. Inspired by his work at the three Michelin Ledoyen as well as the legendary chocolate maker Jacques Genin, both in Paris, his philosophy is “merging French and Taiwanese gastronomies”. His chocolate creations include Formosa Red Oolong Tea, aged plums, longan, bamboo ginger or black sesame oil into the cocoa mass, tantalizing!
Risa, made by a very friendly Philippine family, introduced the tremendous dark chocolate dusted roasted tender pili nuts. The “Pilitas” were sweetened by coconut sugar, and you could taste both the nuts and the cocoa. The morsels had a texture so creamy and soft that you could let them melt in you moth and chew the fairy delicate pili nuts. So far, they only have there dark chocolate bars both from their home country’s cocoa beans. Sourced from single origin regions Bicolandia n the central volcanic Philippines (sweetened by cane sugar), was the 70% force, while the South Cotabato 60% was sourced from the Southern Philippines (by coconut sweetened).
The award-winning and beyond London famous Rococo Chocolates hosted children play area, while the also well-established Akesson’s single plantation chocolates remained focused on showing the simple purity of terroir and chocolate. Blanxart from Barcelona brought the premium organic bars as well as the more polished and by cocoa-matching ingredients enhanced confectioneries.

At the London Chocolate Show you can sample an immense diversity of chocolate and chocolate products, such as hot chocolate, cakes, crêpes, fried churros dipped in melted chocolate, fragrant brownies, crafted truffles, single origin bars, lick the bounty straight from the chocolate fountain, but also purchase chocolate making kits. Unique artistic creations by Jen Lindsey Clark such as the chocolate sculptures of Benedict Cumberbatch or a bust of the Queen Mother, complemented the densely programmed event spanning three days. Next to it, plenty of other curiosities appeared on the fair – from cocoa cosmetics to chocolate wine, yes! The Rubis Chocolate wine tastes more like a sweet ruby port than a bottle of Cabernet, but as a dessert beverage it is interesting.
The hottest trends that I spotted from the conversions of ideas at the fair were using more organic raw materials, focus on the single origin or directly sourced cocoa (bean-to-bar), and the increased use of coconut sugar in place of the more traditional sugarcane. The healthy image of dark chocolate seems to continue enchanting consumers. The usual sugar, be it raw or even better organic cane sugar, or dehydrated cane juice, all the same, is unsuitable for those trying to keep their GI load low (GI 60 of cane sugar). The now increasingly popular dehydrated coconut sap or juice (GI of coconut sugar 35 ) are both minimally processed, high in minerals and do not undercut the flavour of cocoa as stevia does, but still should be avoided by diabetics and the most purist chocolatiers stick to old good sugarcane because of its more neutral sweetening power, not hindering the natural cocoa flavours.

Each October, come to indulge your chocolate cravings at The Chocolate Show in London, since it is also the most entertaining as well as informative cocoa-focused event in the UK. There are some other, to chocolate dedicated, fairs in town worth checking out. The chilly outdoors setting of the Chocolate Festival fronting the Southbank centre, is ideal for your pre-Christmas chocolate shopping.
This year, it will take over the weekend between 10 and 12 December.
11am – 8pm on Friday, 11am – 6pm Saturday & Sunday.
The Chocolate show is getting global. With separate events curated in Belgium, France, Italy, Monaco, Beirut, Japan, Moscow and Seoul so far, the chocolate palate has never had more opportunities to discover the magic versatility of the cocoa bean and benefit from the creativity of the world’s chocolatiers. Do not hesitate and take your part.

Hélène Darroze: Michelin mademoiselle cooking with emotions

Hélène Darroze counts among the rare breed of female Michelin star chefs. Being awarded ‘The world’s best female chef’ title and two of these coveted frankophile stars at her Connaught hotel restaurant, she established herself as one of the top chefs in London and beyond.
Yet, her journey to being a recognised female chef, that now heads a number of respected restaurants, was not a smooth career on the side of a lush family life. In the inacommodating hospitality world, she had no time to get married and give birth to her own children, so in her early 40s, she adopted two girls from Vietnam. Now, although they bring her more pleasure than cooking, she reigns more fiscal power over her destiny and just launched a pop-up in the form of her third restaurant. After the success of her first gastronomic restaurant in Paris, she embarked for London, and now (since June 8th 2016) she oversees the kitchen at the eponymous hotel Maria Christina in San Sebastian. Three countries, three different expressions of local ingredients, yet all prepared with a global perspective.

Cooking philosphy guided by emotions

Mademoiselle Darroze displays her feminine French roots from her native Landes region (like Ducasse, for whom she briefly worked, she grew up in the South-west France) through her emotional cuisine. At Hélène Darroze at London Connaught hotel, provenance is celebrated, and the central display of seasonal ingredients that she cooks with assures you of that.
Despite the playful roulette menu of white balls inscribed with the ‘queen’ ingredient, for each of the featuring dishes, the diners are also informed about the origin of the main ingredients on a proper carte aside and on demand by the well-read waiters. She seems to be proud of knowing her sources well, which in today’s scandalous world (going beyond the most talked about horse meat scandal or the food poisoning at the then world’s number 1 restaurant Noma in Copenhagen) has become one of the priorities in dining out for many foodies.

Hélène Darroze at London Connaught hotel puts ingredients in the forefront

The food is focused on the origin, freshness and an innovative assemblage of ingredients. The lightened-up French nouvelle cuisine plays a starting game, but Darozze is not afraid of using a wide repertoire of Europe-centric matches to win the tournament. On my first meal there, starting with then signature Raviole of “Institut de Beauvais” potato with Pecorino from Tuscany, confit bacalao from Bilbao, Basque pork chorizo, watercress and roasting poultry jus, I knew that I was not going to have a simple meal. The potato dough based ravioli à la Italy, filled with the Basque cod and a spicy sausage, accompanied by Tuscan cheese rather shouted a “fusion” cuisine, and thus, I would think of her cooking beyond just purely French defined.
My next meal there this month, I went for the game of her multi-course tasting menu, so I sampled many dishes and two desserts (plus the usual petits fours with tea). The Caviar served with an oyster, sea urchin, cockles in a japanese dashi broth left the borders of Europe eastwards and was nice, but perhaps my favourite savoury plate was the Cod from Scotland served with in seasonal white asparagus, nettle, Italian bottargo and long pepper. Just perfectly cooked, flaky but not too moist and the assemblage of the ingredients could not have felt more feminine!

One of the chef’s signature dishes – La Saint-Jacques – harvested XXL-sized scallop from Davy Price in Scotland cooked with Tandoori spices, confit carrot and citrus mousseline, spring onion reduction with Lampong pepper and fresh coriander is always on the menu. The Indian tinged vegetables on the side were pleasant and the robust meaty texture of the scallop was surprising. Pork is also a regular feature as is her Signature Savarin, a spongy dessert with a very English Rhubarb and the more exotic ginger accompanied by your selection from three vintage armagnacs made by Francis Darroze. After such a big meal though, I enjoyed the much lighter dessert served before the intense Savarin, the Strawberry in a white hat of thick cream a la cheesecake with the seasonal Gariguette strawberries from France and a buckwheat crumble. So soft and light that I could have had a second serving of the same!

Thanks to the invention of coravin, the impressive wine-by-the-glass selection is tempting, and we were easily seduced by it for our aperitif, actually two glasses each. Some of the wines are served from a magnum size bottle, which makes them mature a bit slower. Starting with a glass of sparkly, the vintage Champagne, then moving to a white Chablis Le Clos Monopole, Château de Béru, which was served by Magnum. I managed to pair the minerality of this Chardonnay with the first creamy vegetable and fish dominated courses. Being a Pinot fan, a nice bottle of red Burgundy followed. The Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru by Ghislaine Barthod in a glorious 1996 vintage, still fit our budget and was delectable. A well-advised savoury wine by the friendly inhouse female sommelier.
The Connaught hotel has tremendous cellar so if your pocket allows it and you want something special, you can get one of these rarities:

Château d’Yquem, 1er Cru Supérieur vintages 1900 or 1891
Château Margaux, 1er Grand Cru Classé 1945
Champagne, Henriot 1928
Marsala Superiore “1860”, Marco De Bartoli 50cl

The serious, old school, classic interior with heavy wooden features invites to dressing smart, city-like, men are preferred to wear a jacket. The chairs are comfortable and service very friendly and polite as it should be for a Michelin establishement, so you will easily enjoy dining there for hours!
Hélène Darroze at London Connaught hotel brings you a game of flavours. With the menu being very playful in itself, and the wine list one of the most impressive in London, be assured of a high level of gourmet entertaining for the day.
Tue – Fri: Lunch: 12:00pm – 2:30pm; Dinner: 6:30pm – 10:30pm
Sat: Brunch: 11:00am – 2:30pm; Dinner: 6:30pm – 10:30pm
Carlos Pl, London W1K 2AL
+44 20 7107 8880, Email: dining@the-connaught.co.uk

Thriving London chocolate producers and shops with focus on craftsmanship

Britain’s infatuation with chocolate is swirling into a delectable contagion now infecting millions of local and visiting passionate cocoa lovers. Finding the best London chocolate shops was a ‘sugarific’ detective work requiring years to accomplish if it were thorough enough. Here is my London chocolate report focused on craftsmanship.

Production of modern chocolate was fine-tuned in Belgium, France, Switzerland and now also in the UK. These countries are, judged by my well-travelled palate, generally ahead of everyone else. I consumed millions of chocolate calories worldwide, and despite its trendy and healthy image, there are still too many amateurish and rather commercial chocolate makers. I believe that love with chocolate is crucial in making a great one yourself, but still skilled craftsmen are indispensable in making the best chocolates. Therefore, not just the expression of terroir but also the artisanship of leading chocolatiers must be appreciated. One of the best in Britain is William Curley.

William Curley

William Curley had repeatedly won the “Best British Chocolatier” award judged by the the Academy of Chocolate. Before embarking on his own chocolate route Curley worked at the UK’s most celebrated Michelin restaurants, including a cherished post as the chef patissier at London’s eponymous Savoy hotel. There he met his former Japanese wife Suzue, who became his muse in most of Curley’s delectable pursuits. Combining classic western techniques with oriental flavours such as in Jasmine crème brûlée with caramelised mandarins defined their cooperation. Sadly, as they split his flagship branch in Belgravia closed down, but you can still buy his creations at a small concession inside Harrods. Taste the artisanal perfection in the Almond & Orange or Assam Tea “Mou” (Soft Caramel infused with Assam tea, coated in dark chocolate), and other creations like Orange and balsamic vinegar caramel. Get the cocoa dust into motion in your own kitchen with Curley’s book Couture Chocolate that received the Cookery Book of the Year Award. For cocoa purity and simplicity do not look here since vanilla is used even in the 70% cocoa House Dark Blend, that is nevertheless deliciously rich, almost chalky, with hazelnut and cedar notes. The cocoa mass is sourced from the Tuscan chocolate producer Amedei.
Harrods Department Store, Knightsbridge, London
williamcurley.com

Roccoco

Rococo Chocolates has pioneered the origin focused, sustainable cocoa sourcing in the country. For over three decades Chantal Coady, of the rare female breed of British chocolatiers has ushered her Rococo brand to the forefront of the local cocoa conscience. The founding member of the Academy of Chocolate and a fierce supporter of global cocoa sustainability, opened her first flagship boutique in South Kensington. Now nested also in the posh Belgravia the indulgent Dessert Bar conceils the frequent chocolate and patisserie courses in the kitchens below. With indoor and outdoor seating, this is a perfect place to unwind with a sweat treat. Now seeking bars made from organic cocoa, the Rococo’s 100% Plus Noir Que Noir dark house bar is one of the best pure cocoa mass bars I have ever had. Harmonious, with just enough richness to let the wallnut flavours subtly envelop your mouth, you do not miss the sugar.
The Earl Grey Tea 65% cocoa, the joint venture with The Grenada Chocolate Company for Gru Grococo in their vintage organic dark chocolate, and the Basil & Persian Lime in the Rococo bee stamped bar line, are my favourites.

5 Motcomb Street, London, SW1X 8JU
http://www.rococochocolates.com
Mon-Sat: 8:30am – 7pm; Sunday: 11am – 6pm

Pump Street Bakery

The rustic yet luxurious packaging reminds of the superb Allain Ducasse French-made chocolate bars and the quality of the cocoa-based squares inside is at least as impressive! These are, without any pretence, the best bean to bar chocolates in the UK. From their bakery cum cocoa roastery in Suffolk, the limited and numbered batches are supplied only to selected stores. After sourcing directly from the farmers, the cocoa material arrives in the UK, the cleaned bread oven is used to roast the beans, then the beans are ground and conched into chocolate in very small batches (25kg). Only the bare minimum of ingredients a sweet chocolate can have are used: cocoa beans, cane sugar and cocoa butter. Where possible organic raw material is used, no soy lecithin, vanilla and other flavour adultering substances are added to allow the ultimate quality of the cocoa to express itself in its most beautiful and pure delight. In their milk chocolates, milk powder of the succulent clotted cream richness is used with the above-mentioned cocoa triad. If there is only one bar you must try to satisfy your curiosity though, then go for their baker’s signature Sourdough & Sea Salt 66% dark chocolate bar. Without disturbing the natural expression of the Ecuador’s best crop from Hacienda Limon (66%cocoa) their crunchy toasted sourdough bread and sea salt meet in a unique, malty gourmet concoction. You can taste it without the bread in the Ecuador from Hacienda Limon 75% cocoa concentration. I am also crazy about the 75% Dark Jamaica bar sourced solely from the Bachelor’s Hall Estate, and the serious yet delicately smooth 80% cocoa from 3 Marias in Honduras. Each bar has its batch number stamped on the seal so you can compare the unique distinction of the crop and chocolate roasting process.

Flagship store & manufacturing 1 Pump St, Woodbridge IP12 2LZ, Suffolk, online store, at the British Produce Room at Liberty. For London stockists check their website.
pumpstreetbakery.com
Mon-Wed: 9:30am-7pm; Thurs-Fri: 9:30am – 8:30pm; Sat: 9:30am – 7pm; Sun: 11:30am – 5:30pm

Willie’s Chocolate

The journey of its founder, a cacao farmer and chocolate manufacturer in one William Harcourt-Cooze is as remarkable as are his personally selected cocoa beans and chocolates. His childhood on a wild stretch off the Ireland’s south-west coast opened his heart to adventure and wild produce. For two decades ‘Willie’ has been planting and harvesting the precious criollo cocoa pods at his Hacienda El Tesoro in Venezuela where ginger grows wildly beneath the cacao trees. No chemical treatment has been ever used on any of the cocoa farms that the beans are directly sourced from. Roasted in antique ball roasters (restored by Willie himself), just raw cane sugar and natural cocoa butter (less than is usual) – no soya lecithin and vanilla – are added because “the best tastes always come from fine ingredients that are not mishandled or contaminated“. Willie’a Chocolate uses only the less productive Criollo and Trinitario beans to achieve more interesting range of flavours than the largely used Foreastero strain of cocoa. Each bean is then conched for up to 11 days. For cooking the single origin 70 % cacao cylinders are very handy to crate also savoury plates (recipes on their website). Must try are the single district dark chocolates in the Venezuelan Gold range with the typical coffee and nutty aromas. I am fond of the Peruvian Gold sourced from Chulucanas as its plum and raisin fragrance is just so unusual.
Buy online at www.williescacao.com, at Selfridges Food Hall and other gourmet purveyors such as Sourced Market in London.

Hotel Chocolat British Cocoa Grower & Chocolatier

Hotel Chocolat took the concept of chocolate further than anyone else. With its own estate and hotel in the exotic Saint Lucia in the West Indies, the visitors can directly participate in the “Tree to bar Experience”. Picking your own cocoa pod from a tree on their Rabot Estate, roasting the beans, and then creating your own chocolate and truffles sounds like a dream for adventurers with a gourmet disposition. Not all the chocolates, many of them single origin organic pure creations, some more crafted for the funky taste seeking customers, are from their own estate, though. Sourcing also from Colombia, Dominican Republic, Honduras, Peru, Ecuador, Ghana and Vietnam opens the flavour gates for experimentation. These single origin bars are titled “Rabot 1745 rare & vintage“.

I tasted my first 100% dark cocoa bar at their branch near the London’s Borough market, where you can also venture into a full meal prepared with cocoa or chocolate. From the pure range, the “Island Growers” cocoa from Saint Lucia was the most sublime with surprising grassy, herbal and vegetal aromas spiced up with peppery tones and olive oil creaminess. A touch of roasted oak rounds up this super complex cocoa beauty.
For a true sweet indulgence try the Pistachio Crunches in 70% dark chocolate. The ultra sweet tooth will clinch on the Marzipan Ingot in 70% dark chocolate coat. Hotel Chocolat is a large producer with over 80 shops in the UK, cafés and restaurants, a branch in Australia and three boutiques in Copenhagen.
The school of chocolate: 4 Monmouth Street, Covent Garden, London, WC2H 9HB
hotelchocolat.com
OTHER LONDON based chocolate producers & stores:

The Chocolatier: A Niche by Aneesh

Aside the established UK producers, I must mention the talented math graduate Aneesh Popat, who applies his mathematical and scientific background to create unique flavour combinations. The Chocolatier, Anesh, has created the signature ‘water ganache’, a lean line of chocolate truffles with as little as 20 calories per piece. The water ganache is made without butter, cream, gelatin or eggs to create a ‘pure’ vegan chocolate. Aneesh’s Indian roots inspired intriguing creations such as the 70% dark chocolate bar with crunchy poppadoms and savory cum sweet mango chutney. Many Michelin stared restaurants feature his chocolates and you can also find them at Fortnum & Mason, Harvey Nichols, Harrods, Selfridges and some other locations.
the-chocolatier.co.uk

Also worth mentioning are the chocolates from Akessons, Amelia Rope, Bullion Chocolate, Damson, Original Beans, Paul A. Young, and upcoming talents just launching their chocolates featured in my review of the London Chocolate Show.

The best stores to buy chocolates in London:

The Chocolate Museum in Brixton
The Cocoa Runners in Islington

The confectionery section on the ground floor (next to the Rolexes and diamonds) at Selfridges, Harrods, Fortnum & Mason. and Wholefoods. F&M as well as Harrods have even their own ranges of chocolate bars as does the East India Company.

Other good UK-based chocolate brands worth mentioning are the Artisan du Chocolat and Melt, both nesting in Notting Hill. Their fancy stores are attractive and their chocolate creations are very tasty, but far from the bean to bar philosophy and the focus on artisanship of my other selections in this post.
Chocolate shopping in London has never been more exciting. With the annual Chocolate Fair, locally-masterminded chocolate awards announced at the London Chocolate Show and many energetic entrepreneurial chocolatiers popping up like water from a hot pan, the chocolate lovers never had better opportunities to indulge.
My cocoa-purity-focused investigation revealed that sustainable and fair sourcing, acquiring top quality raw material, and dedicated, passionate expression of artisanal curiosity, increasingly define the competitive and mature global chocolate market.

My Cup of Tea: selling story with each tea and herbal blend

Just around the corner from the Picadilly Circus, yet secluded from the loud commerce of Regent Street in the newly built trendy Ham Yard, My Cup of Tea is ideally set to offer your calm in the hum of London. More than tea and tisanes boutique, the handpicked dried camellias and other brewing plants set My Cup of Tea apart from most tea purveyors in London. Inside this little dispensary sniff the fragrances from the perfectly lined up army of large jars. No rush, enjoy the purity of nature through your nose and then approach the tea counter, where your selection will be precisely weighed on. Like in a classic pharmacy, this is how once tea was sold. Bringing back this nostalgia in a contemporary design, My Cup of Tea allures your eyes, nose, and palate through clean-cut natural beauty.
tea counter at Cup of Tea in London

Small batch tea and herbs with a story

While mainly distancing itself from the concept of the traditional English tea, the “modern tea specialist sourcing and blending the best teas and tisanes” offers also strong black tea. British classics such as Breakfast, Assam, Ceylon as well as a more subtle first flush Darjeeling from the Steinthal Estate with its characteristic muscatel aroma were introduced. Ever since the business was established in 2008, the tea has arrived from the best estates in China, India, Japan, Sri Lanka, and Taiwan. Their herbal infusions are assembled also from other destinations that provide the highest calibre for each plant. Travels inspire most of the new creations. The story of each tea from the discovery of the ingredients in far-flung countries, the entwined encounters with its traditions, to the tempting emotions the fragrances induced – that all was edited into shorter blurbs on the packaging accompanied with plant illustrations. The design was thought out into the tiniest niches. I love the indigo ink printed paper wraps. The tisanes are sold by 18 hand-bound muslin bags. You can also buy by six and try up to three different blends this way.
tea packaging
The classic tea blends are packaged in crystal tea bags that “allow the tea to move around and brew perfectly”. Similarly to the well-established Postcard Teas also in London every step, from selecting the growers and visiting the source, blending, through packaging by hand and educating customers at their store is directly overseen by the enthusiastic founders. Each compostable muslin bag for the tisanes is, with an astute Japanese preciseness, carefully wrapped and tied with a cotton thread. Such personal touch together with face-to-face provenance of the raw material sets My Cup of Tea from most tea businesses.
Here, you get the freshest annual crop of Gyokuro from Uji, while the best-selling sencha comes from Mr Takada, a tea master whose family has been based for four generations in the Shizuoka prefecture in Japan. Sweeter than most of the bitter steamed Japanese green teas, yet this sencha provides the distinct seaweed with an added almond taste.
Imagine the globe as a fragrant garden. The golden chamomile comes from Egypt, France supplies the honey-scented blossom of the lime tree, the island cardamom from Guatemala yields sweet and resinous richness, while Uganda enchanted the founders by its caramel scented vanilla. Northern Europe does not stay behind as Lithuania’s smoky dried forest raspberries, jasmine blossoms and wild mint “harvested from the rivers’ edge“ are blended in. Looking for the best, the orange blossom with its notes of toast and almonds is imported from Iran.
A thoughtful accent on slow natural drying procedures assures better expression of the raw material being it tea, mint leaf or marigold. Working with established tea processors whose generations proven experience assures reliable and top quality.
The creative seasonal blends are assembled to address specific health benefits and labeled as such, but at the same time the focus of the house is on sublime taste, that is highly personal. You may love chamomile while other person sighs with pleasure while sniffing verbena. The staff respects it and tries to help. Some tisanes are available only when the raw ingredients are in their natural seasons so freshness is assured, and you will be tantalised all year around with something different.
Tea shop in London

Tisanes hand blended at My Cup of Tea in London

These plant-based, non-caffeinated brews are made from leaves, flowers, berries, seeds, roots, rhizomes or bark.
The current best-seller is Marrakech Blend was inspired by a visit to gardens outside the old Moroccan city of Marrakech and the local custom for offering mint tea. Verbena, mint, sage, blue cornflower and golden marigold petals were assembled to represent the rich culture of Morocco.
Another popular seasonal blend is Camomile & Lavender soothing both mind and body and induce a serene sleep. English ‘Maillette’ lavender with its distinctive sweet aroma and high content of essential oil was wrapped into the muslin sachets that are packed in embroidered jacquard cotton bags to reminisce of the “dream pillows filled with herbs“. I prefer the Chamomile with ginger and lemongrass in the Uplifting blend. It is a perfect tummy soother and a warming natural remedy when you feel miserable.
Redolent of Provence, the Orange Blossom & Verbena blend is a firm favourite with the regular customers.
My Cup of Tea rooibos London
Personally, I like the Aromatic Herbal Chai. It is caffeine-free, so you can enjoy its superb spicy sweet flavours even in the evening. The warming, sweet scents of cocoa beans and marigold, a smooth spice of cinnamon complemented by a gentle tingle of peppercorns is grounded in the main two ingredients where the digestive aid of cardamom and lemon balm accentuate the essence of each other.
Lime Blossom, Green and Red Rooibos, Fennel, Quince, Cinnamon and Elderflower in “a sour and sweet, mildly bitter tea with a distinctive licorice-like taste” meet in the Cleansing Fennel & Green Rooibos infusion. A deeply balancing blend of Melissa and mint, peony and violet petals the Flowery Blend brews into a soft emerald green infusion with creamy flower notes.
The organic Nettle and Mint infusion is detoxifying and perfect to help digestion. Sweet mint is harvested during early summer when its mellow violet tinted flowers bloom and is grounded by earthy and iron rich nettle leafs.
Most of the tisanes can be brewed up to three times. Each becoming more subtle with every new pouring of the hot water bath.
My Cup of Tea London tisane
To complement the plant-centric goods, tea accessories, ceramics and glassware “by respected artists around the world are chosen, sometimes, for their history and cultural background and, sometimes, simply for their beauty”. If you show interest, drawers are open and another world of hand-made vessels opens up to you. Matcha bowls, Asian-style handle-free cups, Moroccan glass cups and contemporary Australian porcelain by MUD are as diverse as they are beautiful.
Regular tea classes ranging from an initiation into Chinese gongfu tea ceremony with oolong tasting to hands-on workshops like ‘Make your own herbal tisane blend’. Bespoke tasting events are also offered or just learn more about tea in a private setting.
At this moment, expansion of the branded store beyond London is not pondered about, but there are a number of gourmet purveyors stocking some of their teas and tisanes. The packets adorned by the distinctive little red elephant, sample the superb liquid health assembled together from around the world by My Cup of Tea.
✉ 5 Denman Place, London W1D 7AH
🕗 Mon-Fri: 10am-7pm; Sat: 11am-7pm; Sun: 12noon-5pm
Lunch break: 1pm-1:30pm

CLOSED The Greenhouse: natural setting enrobed in Mayfair

When the deep-voiced and confidence radiating cabbie dropped me in front of residential Mayfair mews, I questioned his certified prowess of the city’s streets. Despite the legendary competence of London’s black cab drivers, they are still fallible humans and we all can make mistakes. But, as he assured me that The Greenhouse restaurant is “indeed tucked” inside the apartment building, I cautiously ventured in.

A sigh of relief whiffed off me just seconds later as my spiny heels click-clacked on the pavement. Shaded from the road by a lush coat of greenery, the dimply lit pathway lead into a peaceful nursery of gustatory longings. A warm welcome by the front ladies as I checked in my name in their reservation book, shook off all the remaining anxiety.
The organic yet elegantly restrained décor flows smoothly between the generously spaced tables. Add the serious gourmets inviting quiet ambience that accommodates business meetings as well as romantic soirées, be assured that the party is not going to start anytime soon. At least not here. At The Greenhouse, enjoy the conversation and the brilliant food, but also pay attention to the chef’s signature crab dish, now served as an in-between course to everyone.

British ingredients in the spotlight

The Cornish crab retains its true spirit of freshness, yet there is much more to it. A mint jelly, cauliflower, and zesty Granny Smith apple underline the crab’s raw, sea-salty nature while a pinch of curry balances the coolness of the ingredients with a warming sensation. An applause for this thoughtful expression of creativity that tastes superb!
The in-house custodian of flavors is the two Michelin-starred chef Arnaud Bignon, who casts his fine touch on the classic French cuisine. Bignon’s traditional French training remains the supporting core for many of the dishes while employing contemporary cooking techniques lightens their typically presumed weight. His gastronomic philosophy is focused on finding the perfect harmony in all of his edible creations. The balancing act has become more difficult with my recent dinner there as Bignon’s ambition has recently ramped up. Now he employs more complex ideas on each plate, but still remains true to give you only what is needed on the plate.
Michelin cuisine

French roots blooming in the British soil

The chef’s French training makes a foie gras mandatory on the menu. The goose liver delicacy, although controversially raised, is still popular with many gourmets. In his starter, pan-frying mellows its texture while his alternating seasonal ingredients and cocoa add complexity, savory kick, and exotic aura.
To underline the inherent lightness of the sea produce, fish is not buttered but rather combined with fragrant ingredients. Asian inspiration penetrates the turbot’s flaky white meat in a subtle delight. The Welsh Organic Lamb sourced from the Rhug Estate was perfectly cooked, tender, juicy and sweetened by the Easter promise in Kombu seaweed meets Middle-eastern hummus and lemon. My friend is a fan of the Venison sourced from the Moreland estate. The morsels of the wild animal were given a nordic flare through Quince, Hispi cabbage, and Lingonberry.
Vegetarian options are also available on the seasonally changing menu. Just inquire with the by knowledge-empowered waiting staff hoovering around.

Before the puddings (the British parlance for desserts), a palette cleanser entertained us as the nitrogen trick of molecular chefs steamed off the serving bowl. The lollies coated in white chocolate, filled with by mojito inspired sorbet, were the stars of the evening.
Although the sweets looked tempting, I am always in the mood for cheese when I catch the whiff of the cheese trolley. The mighty cheese trolley, like a white horse on the wheels, elegantly swishes between the tables turning the guests heads to curiously examine its treasures.
Assembled daily from an assortment of French and British cheeses at their peak, it is a fragrant dream-come-true for any cheese connoisseur. Impossible to pick two or three so go for a half of the trolley as I do. I tamed the cheesy explosion by a glass of full-bodied red Rioja. Its bold fruit and daring American oak was becoming well-integrated in the wine after a decade of ageing and matched most of the intensely tasting cheeses.

Diving into one of the best wine lists in London at The Greenhouse

The Greenhouse is one of the rare restaurants in the world to win the Wine Spectator Grand award. Obtaining it every year since 2005, its wine list is one of the rare horses in the stable.
Flipping through the list can take half of your evening, so a sommelier’s help is highly useful here. Starting with a glass of champagne whets one’s appetite for what is to come.
Hermitage wine Paul Jaboulet Annee
Old vintage Champagnes are the gems in the wine coffin. Chose from the 1959 vintages of Dom Pérignon £2,200.00 or Salon Blanc de Blancs for even more shocking £6,150.00 if you are a billionaire. The legendary Burgundian Domaine de la Romanée-Conti flashes their Richebourg 1929 for £7,800.00; La Tâche 1945 for £11,500.00 or an eye-popping Magnum 1971 for £29,500.00. Bordeaux does not stay shy behind with a magnum of my favourite Château Latour 1900 for £19,750.00; and Château Lafite-Rothschild 1870 for £29,500.00. Australian wines, but also wines from Slovenia, Hungary, Switzerland and even sake from Japan enhance the breadth of the drinks menu.
Specialist wine courses, suitable for beginners as well as advanced wine lovers, take place regularly at The Greenhouse.

🕗 Lunch: noon-2:30pm Mon-Fri.

Dinner: 6:30-10:30pm Mon-Sat.

✉ 27A Hay’s Mews, London W1J 5NY
☏ +(44) 20 7499 3331

CLOSED Fera: contemporary and wild British cuisine rolls high at Claridges

Replacing Gordon Ramsay at his eponymous Claridges location, another established icon of contemporary British cuisine Simon Rogan heads successfully Fera. The chef expanded to London from his two Michelin restaurant L’Enclume in the Lake District. Rogan is naturally in tune with the contemporary trend of local sourcing. Farming most of his produce for years at his 12-acre farm up in Cumbria, he is not a trend follower, but a pioneer devote to his organic and foraged wild ingredients. Fresh herbs are planted in pots above the chefs’ stations in the kitchen so they can pluck as many as please to add fragrance and the final aesthetic touch to every plate just before it is taken to your table.

His ‘cheffing’ at Fera changed London’s fine dining scene earning one star from the Michelin guide in its opening year. I believe that second star is in the making. Modernity is carefully applied to the best seasonal local produce, seafood fresh from the British waters plated in the heart of Mayfair. A freeze dryer, vacuum cooking and other gadgets in the kitchen’s equipment excite the cooks.

The art of plating is performed with a creative zeal worth displaying at the Tate Modern, yet it is the locally made,rustic earthenware that sets the tone for the dining experience at Fera. This understated elegance in respect of contemporary crafts stirred some unjust criticisms from a number of London-based food critics. Insulted by the rustic setting at such a grand location cashing high prices for its meals, the Guardian’s Jay Rayner summed it up more precisely in one sentence: “This is rustic, by way of Chanel.”
Dining in the art deco surroundings of the lavishly set room does not need any special decorating effects. The lack of formal amenities such as white table cloths, gilded dining ware and perhaps missing any exaggerated theatrical presentation of the Heston pedigree, is the new wave of high-end dining experience. Inspired by the rustic yet clean lines of Scandinavian and Japanese kitchens, more top chefs – from San Francisco (Coi) though New York (11 Madison Park whose chef Daniel Humm once started his career at Claridges, Blue Hill) to Paris (Toyo) and now with Fera on the scene also in London, put more accent on the genuine, well-sourced, food-centric experience rather than the now old-fashioned gimmicks of the past century French haute cuisine or the molecular wizardry of a decade that had already passed.

Fera means ‘wild’ in Latin therefore, any form of fermentation next to the foraged and highly seasonal ingredients is explored by the team. The chef brews a barley wine kombucha from beer, perry, cider or wine. Not to slurp on this acquired taste demanding mushroom beverage, but to add acidity and complexity to some of the dishes. His theory goes as to kombucha being “similar to flavored vinegar”.

Our solid gustatory indulgence started with crispy fluffy rabbit snacks and other little morsels of amouse-bouche that readied our palates for a culinary discovery of the British isles. There is cheese, fish, meat, seafood, but also lots of vegetables and fruits flagship to the changing seasons.
In the fall the vegetarian entry plate of Grilled salad, smoked over embers, Isle of Mull, truffle custard and sunflower seeds, showed the richness and generosity of the season that ripens more intense flavors. Smoking, and dehydrating some of the greens matched to the sauce made from unpasteurized Scottish cheese. This award-winning aged cheddar is different from any other because of its distinct garlic sharpness and a fruity tang since the cows eat fermented grain from a nearby whisky distillery. The sole redundant ingredient was the truffle since with all the robustness my palate could not distinguish its unique fragrance, a shame.

On another occasion, I ordered the contemporary edible art on a plate consisting of a fresh Crab, cucumber, mallow, young squid and frozen cream. Light, texturized assembly of nature, that was highlighted by freezing the cream to freshen it up, not to suffocate the crab and the vegetables.
Main courses include animal protein as well as fish like cod, halibut and John Dory, but also a vegetarian plate. The Caramelised onion squash, courgette, sheep’s milk and cobnuts were screaming Fall! Assembled on the stone-gray plate, the seasonal produce of nature and the British sheep was rich and generous, surely made to satisfy, not to deprive. I also tried the Roasted John Dory served with razor clams, artichokes, spinach and smoked beetroot, again deepening the taste through smoking, it was a contrast of lightness of the sea with the land’s intensity.
British meat and locally hunted birds are such a staple of the Islands’ gastronomy, that they capture a sizable part of the menu. Once winter grays the London’s skies, it will be the best time to sample one of the chef’s meaty dishes.

Pudding time! As the British title the desserts. A chocoholic like me would melt over the rich Salted chocolate air puffs, jasmine gelato, lemon cream and a thick spread of caramel, which I did, but it was a little bit too much. Either leave out the flowery ice cream or the caramel otherwise, it is a malaise of highly competitive flavors and textures. My friend though seemed to appreciate the much lighter Black figs, sweet cheese, meadowsweet and burnt lemon.
I had better ordered again the Selection of British and Irish cheese as I did the first time I dined at Fera. As nature allows, the weather affects the supply so the changing cheese plate is a genuine seasonal exploration of the excellent local cheese.
High-quality coffee or teas can accompany your dessert or the complimentary mignardises (small sweets served at high-end restaurants after the meal). London-based Postcard Teas delivers their small batch tea personally selected on the founder’s trips to Asia, and there are some rare brews you can enjoy while dining at Fera.
As your meal nears the finale, peak at the action inside the kitchen. Either the waiter or the manager are eager to show you around.

✉ 49 Brook St, London W1K 4HR

☏+(44) 20 7107 8888

🕗 Daily for lunch and dinner at regular times

Sake No Hana: Japanese cuisine made fun in London

Sake No Hana offers a curious mix of traditional Japanese food and customs with contemporary lifestyle in the heart of London. As a less successful, younger sister to the popular modern Cantonese Chinese restaurant Hakkasan, that prides itself in a trendy ambience and Michelin star rating, it tries to reach up to its role model. In terms of design, it does a great job in being visually arresting. It is fun, fashionable and buzzing, not a serious Japanese sushi bar.

While the food is delicious and the chefs, no doubt, highly accomplished, the level of comfort is not to everyone’s taste. Closely placed tables, a gaggle of wait staff poised to tend to your every whim and the overly loud dance music, piped throughout the entire restaurant, can leave you feeling like you are in a crowded night club, with little to no chance of an intimate conversation.
The food and drinks menu is vast and even for London expensive with cocktails costing no less than £15. The restaurant though offers a deal which is excellent value for money considering that it includes a bottle of sake.
For £30 per person, you can order a five-course meal from the set menu. There are vegetarian options for every course and the dishes are quite large. This is certainly not a tasting menu, as one may expect.

Four of the five dishes from the vegetarian menu were exciting and delectable. Unfortunately, I found the main course of tofu, aubergine and peppers quite inedible, not least because of the gelatinous gloop that covered the tofu.
The first course was a miso soup, a light and wholesomely appetising way to start the meal. Traditionally, this it is slurped from the bowl, and at Sake No Hana there are no spoons to help capture every last morsel which is a shame.
The vegetable tempura was perfectly crunchy, which of course, is a must for good tempura. The plate came with a lovely sweet and sour dip and cold noodles, which you could do without. The side of a horseradish puree packed a punch but adds to the flavour of the dish.
Vegetable sushi has always been a little shrouded in mystery but is well worth the plunge into the unknown. Served with a cold citrus flavoured rice adorned with radishes and edible flowers, this course is fancier than a cucumber roll. The sushi provided some much-needed spice, but once you start trying to break it up into a smaller mouthful, they lose some of their appeal.

The standout dish of the evening was the desert. Outstanding, with flavours and elements, to die for. A beautifully plated little pieces of fresh mango and meringue placed on a pannacotta base, encircling a mango sorbet laid on a bed of sesame seeds. It felt light while remaining full of sweetness and it rounded off a meal of ups and downs on a high note.
Sake No Hana is a fantastic restaurant, but it is more suitable for groups. Do not expect much privacy or not straining your ears to your dining partner trying hard to hear what is being said to you.
🕗 Mon- Sat: lunch 12noon-3pm; dinner from 6pm.
✉ 23 St James’s St, London SW1A 1HA
☏ +(44) 20 7925 8988

CLOSED Grain Store: model of sustainability for London's dining scene

The Grain Store’s expansive “veg-centric” casual dining room is devoted to sustainability, sociability and fun. By reducing the function of meat and fish into a garnish size on the plates, sourcing locally, seasonally, when possible organic produce, being more energy efficient, limiting waste, and by using eco-friendly materials such as refillable glass and paper boxes, sustainable business is ensured. Awarded The UK’s most Sustainable Restaurant right when it opened in 2013, the Grain Store continues to inspire other dining businesses in London.
Rather than assuming the leading role the [animal] flash held in our abundance-born generation, it is sided next to a starring vegetable or grain on each plate that is not vegetarian or vegan. Otherwise for the less limited diners, sustainably certified seafood and ethically raised grass pastured or local grain fed meat like the Denham Castle Lamb that grazes freely on a sprawling Suffolk estate, are used in the food preparations.

The French-born chef Bruno Loubet is of a heavy Michelin calibre, but his rejuvenating trip to Australia a couple of years ago lead him to the enlightening ideas for this new venture in London. As a co-owner, he wields more power over the concept as well as the menu itself. Although he hails from the meat-centric Libourne, his recent travels opened him more to cooking with vegetables, grains and even wild Atlantic seaweed. The halo of sustainability is about being as close to its saint’s dwelling, so the ingredients at the Grain Store are as local as possible.
Healthier eating is made simple right on the menu. A carrot symbol for a purely vegetarian dish, leaf for vegan, yet if you don’t have any dietary restrictions and allergies and are just searching a balanced plate, you can order anything you momentally crave. Some popular dishes remain on the menu throughout the year as their seasonal availability allows for, while others are shuffled around with the changing seasons. Locally grown produce is preferred to imported stuff, but the chef could not resist to shipping some French cheese through the London branch of a Paris-based centenary master cheese monger Androuet. They also supply local British cheese owing to their partnership with Paxton & Whitfield, the oldest cheese shop in London. Naturally fermented ‘slow’ organic sourdough bread by nearby-based Boulangerie de Paris, accompanies the cheeses perfectly.

From the year around menu I enjoy the lushness of the Sprouting seeds & beans, miso aubergine, crispy citrus chicken skin, topped with air-thin potato wafer. For a warm main course the Hot seaweed sushi, glazed pak choi, black garlic purée, hake à la plancha in vanilla butter feeds and nourishes in a perfectly balanced plate.

Although the portions are smartly sized for managing both a starter and the main course, if you cannot finish your meal, ask for a take-away recyclable paper box and they will happily wrap the leftovers. Reducing food waste is one of the tenets of the sustainable movement in developed countries globally.

To drink, if you want to avoid alcohol, it is easy here. Cocktails made with fresh pressed juices are seductive. Try the ROMAN REDHEAD squeezed from red grape juice, beetroot and verjus or the FRENCH BLONDE of grape juice, elderflower cordial, lemongrass and verjus. For a fizzy energiser the GOOSEBERRY LEMONADE sweetened by gooseberry syrup, fresh lemon and bubbled with soda is fun.
For a warm pick up the Matcha latte with soy milk is cholesterol free, while the caffeine-free Orzo, a roasted barley drink enhanced with Indian spices satisfies any coffee craving abstinent. Ethically sourced tea from the award winning We are Tea warms you in a cold day, comforts in a typically rainy London weather or helps to flush toxins after an indulgent night out.
If you feel like sinning a bit then most of the wines are organic or biodynamic, plus the skilled cocktail master Tony Greco invented tempting blends inspired by ancient Roman custom of infusing wines with herbs. Try the Gewurtztraminer infused with herbs in CHAMOMILE VINUS LUPUS or Grenache Blanc in ROMAN SMOKED PAPRIKA WHITE WINE.

The drinks menu offers pairing suggestions with certain dishes. Filtered still and sparkling water is served in a glass carafe since plastic, bottled water and bros. do not have a fan base in the eco-freindly community. Additionally, half of the proceeds from it will be donated to a local charity.

The Grainstore as its name suggests is located in a former wheat granary, where now after the immense regeneration project of a large warehouse area just behind the San Pancras train station, the space invites for a more forward looking dining. Being next to the Central Saint Martins College of Fashion and near to Google’s offices, the crowd certainly is more young, energetic, creative as well as futuristic. In front the Regent’s Canal, a pedestrian only zone and bubbling water fountains do not fit the London box, but feel more like smaller English town. Still, the restaurant is ideal for a social brunch, a work lunch or dinner with friends rather than a romantic candlelit occasion.

The interior design of the restaurant itself feels very busy and rather factory rustic, highlighted by its “exploded” open kitchen. Transparence is what defines the Grain Store’s philosophy – from the no-fuss, open kitchen through listing their purveyors on their website to providing dietary guidance for its diners. In a democratised world of restaurants this is how everyone should be doing it. In the ravishing competition for survival, now is the time to be as much consumer-friendly as each restaurant can to keep going. Of course, still, the food has to taste good, and the Grain Store manages the appeal of their dishes very well.
Address: Granary Square, 1-3 Stable Street, Kings Cross, London
Contact: +44 20 7324 4466
Opening hours: Daily for lunch noon-2:30pm (Sat: 11am-3pm & Sun: 11am-4pm); dinner except Sun: 6-10:30pm

Postcard Teas London: trust in small tea plantations yields high quality tea

Postcard Teas nests in an ultra premium location in central London, but still the rejuvenating calmness of this naturally lit tea boutique is shielded from the wild herds of shoppers cruising the Bond and Regent Streets.
As your smartphone directs you through dwindling, almost passers-by-free streets towards the workshop-squared glass face pinched on Dering street, you will be ushered into a calm oasis of honest business. Providing its customers with only the best quality leafs from precisely focused small tea plantations (less than 15 acres), has attracted the most savvy tea connoisseurs into its parquet little world. Currently, teas from China, India, Japan, Korea, Taiwan and Vietnam are in store, always the newest release of the particular year, with the exception of pu-erh that tends to be better older.
Recently, also limited quantities of organic herbal infusions were added into their portfolio. These are pleasant caffeine-free brews perfect warm or iced, made as you momental mood desires.
This calm and secluded space is an ideal spot for a tea shop, so you can remain focused on the moment of selecting or sipping tea. Even if I intend just to pop in briefly when in the area to get a specific refill of my favourite tea or check out the new arrivals, I end up chatting with whomever is behind the till, effortlessly slow down and get out positively tuned.

There are dozens of brought-back-to-life (The East India Company) or centuries-old tea shops in London, but most of them are staunch devotees of an English style of tea. Increasingly more spurs of pure teas reaching beyond India are appearing on the London tea scene though. The shop offers some classic London blends based on black teas and also many ‘English’ items such as teapot covers that keep warmth inside the pot for longer, but it also features rare handmade Japanese ceramics and tea accessories made by contemporary artists in Japan. The very English teapot covers sold at Postcard Teas in London are all unique and handmade, all in tune with the company’s traditions, handcrafts, fairness and honesty promoting ethos.

Two concepts of tea define its precise selections – working solely with small plantations and maintaining direct relationships with tea growers. In this way, the quality and also fair wages for everyone involved with the tea growing and making process can be assured. Particularly, in China and India it is challenging to find a consistent supply of comparable quality, thus sourcing this way not just supports the small growers and cooperatives, but motivates them to stick to their fair practices.
The Postcard Teas was founded by Timothy D’Offay over 20 years ago. While living in Kyoto, the Japanese centre of tea culture, he was enamoured with great tea and began to explore other tea growing regions in Asia. First he imported tea directly from people he met during his tea travels, later he co-founded his first tea shop called ‘East Teas’ in London, and then grouped together with a passionated and varied bunch of tea lovers, a Japanese tea family descendant and a Chinese ceramicist, who is also the creative director at Postcard Teas, he pioneered working with exclusively small tea growers and thus inspired a new generation of global tea business based on direct ethical trade.

It may seem disparate then placing his store in the Mayfair high-heeled society-environment, but it is a welcome and easy to reach escape for anyone who travels to the metropolis and stays at one of the central hotels as I do. If they were too far North, in the trendy East or Notting Hill, they would probably keep local customers, but could not spread the word beyond the British world.
The choice from about 60 teas and blends, all sold artistically labelled with colourful cartoonish images reminding of the old colourful Japanese placards you can find around Kyoto, makes it hard to narrow down, but trying some of their teas during on of the thematic weekly tastings will swoon over their qualities.
My first picks were a green Korean Nokcha reminding me with its light roasted aroma of slightly oxidised oolong, and and exquisite shaded Japanese steamed green Gyokuro by Master Yoshida.
Look at the descriptive Gyokuro tea tin bellow, that is characteristic for each tea with its precise details. Since 2008 as “the first tea company in the world to put the maker’s name and location” on the package, the Postcard Teas forged transparency. Made by Master Yoshida, a 16th generation tea master and head of the Japanese Hand Rolling Association, the for 20 days shaded rare Gyokuro comes from the Yoshida family fields in Ogura, where gyokuro was first grown and shaded with traditional honzu reed and mochi rice straw covers. Using the kyusu (hobin) ceramic teapot with a small spout, that can be bought at the store, you steep this tea for a very short period in slightly warm water (50-55degreees ideally), then let the umami and the endless aftertaste take you for a long journey.

I also like the flavoured Chinese green tea Huangshan Mao Feng with Morrocan rose buds reminding with its delicate bouquet of a white tea. The La Vie en Rose is delicate, fresh and not too overshadowed by the fragrant roses. Since, there is not any white tea in their repertoire yet, this is an interesting alternative for a lighter brew.
From the pu-erh I enjoyed the typically earthy yet balanced with sweet licorice cooked 2006 vintage LIU FAMILY NANNUO SHAN. Although broken to pieces, it is sealed in the container so still retains its quality. About the raw pu-erh you need to inquire with the staff about availability.
The artistic labels for the airtight tea tins at Postcard Teas can be also used as greeting cards to be send on your behalf to anyone, anywhere in the world. Either at their location in London or online, choose the Tea Postcard™ you’d like to send, write the message in any language and address with a country name in English, and surprise a friend, family or a lover with the old-fashioned, yet today even more appreciated, reminder that there is someone in some other destination who thinks about you and wants to share the very personal experience of enjoying a great tea.
Once you buy a tea in a tin, you can purchase a cheeper refill of the same tea. A sustainable and more economical path to enjoy your favourite teas again and again.

The Postcard Teas reputation has won over many of the leading London and Manchester cafés and restaurants, serving their loose teas with their quality-focused food. To name a few: Fera at Claridges, Balthazar, Quo Vadis, River Café, Umu, … From Michelin dining, health cafés by yoga studios, cake shops and even cycle clubs, they all share the love and support of small tea growers and pickers.

If you purchase any of the artisan Japanese ceramics, you will get it like in Japan beautifully wrapped inside a wooden gift box. I bought kyusu (hobin) ceramic teapot that is ideal for preparing Japanese green teas, made by the ASAHIYAKI KILN (BREWERS) in Uji, the Japan’s tea capital town. It has been serving me well for over two years now.
The Tea school is organised regularly each Saturday morning, lasting for about one hour starting at 10am. The tasting and talking opens your mind about each group of tea and aids with finding the perfect tea style for you. Try before you buy is popular in Asia, in particular in China and Hong Kong, but in Europe, unfortunately, tea tastings are generally paid and organised affairs. At Postcard Teas though their limited supply justifies the cost.
The new arrivals come with changing seasons. In spring you can get a freshly picked Long Jing from China, in the summer an Indian Daarjeling and a Japanese sencha are shipped, gyokuro comes later as do the best fall harvests from India.

9 Dering St, London W1S 1AG, United Kingdom

+44 20 7629 3654

Tea school booking costs £20 per person.

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