Page 78 – La Muse Blue

Vivin: a secret gem of Parisian wine shops

Set a way far from the herds of tourists relentlessly taking pictures of each corner of Paris Vivin is the right place to unwind after a five-hour museum marathon.
Following the advice of a friend ( naturally a wine enthusiast like me ) I took a break from my annual January sales hunting and headed to the suburbs of Paris to visit Vivin. This wine shop is known for its cellar full of rare mostly French wines for which you would have to pay a fortune in a restaurant if they had them on their wine list.

Expecting a shop/bar type of place I thought the address wrong while entering this cosy wine shop. I forgot to mention, that my friend was singing odes on the incredible food he cherished there. Instead, lots, lots and lots of bottles, two huge Spanish hams and a very tall man looking at us as if we just landed from Mars. No wonder as the first thing we asked for was if we could have some lunch.

French gurmet lifestyle

Following laughs from the only table set in the middle of the shop with comments like “so tourists came for lunch to a wine shop,…where are you from?”, we explained we would like to buy some interesting wine and drink it with a bite to eat, and at that point the ice broke down and we were warmly adjoined to the table. Suddenly a crunchy bread, salad and extraordinary plate of the best Spanish ham, marinated peppers, anchovies with pistachios, and even a mouth watering cheese board landed on our table.

Exchange trade is still alive

We got a bottle of white Volnay 2005 premier cru, Nicolas Rossignol from Burgundy and shared it with the group next to us for which we got a taste of their red wine ( Domaine la Tour Vieille, Collioure, 2007) from the South-West of France. Both of them of a unique taste. 2005 was an excellent year for white Burgundy. Chardonnay, the typical grape variety for Burgundy, expressed its full potential in this year as it was superbly delicate. Syrah in the red Collioure is dominant. The very first sip unveils typical spicy tones a la Syrah, nevertheless this wine is also fresh and juicy with a nice body as it is blended with Grenache, also found in Spanish Rioja and Priorat, known for its cherry and peppery flavour. As we indulged in our n-th glass, it turned out that one of the French gentlemen was a wine expert hosting various tastings all over Paris. Now, I was sure, that we are at the right place.
To finish up our outstanding lunch, the wine expert ordered a bottle of Champagne, but not a usual one which you can see at every Nicolas or Oddbins. Champagne Duret-Marchant Brut was surprisingly fruity and naturally slightly sweet. As it is a brut, a dry champagne into which only a pinch of sugar is being added, you could drink and drink and never stop. Yes, I mean that, I was lucky enough to have there my partner to help me to find my way back to the hotel.
A real French style lunch. Over two hours and instead of a glass you end up with two bottles. How they do it? God knows, though there is something on the French way of life as they are one of the longest living nations and rarely suffer from heart diseases. So, instead of a spa head to a cellar, slow down the pace of your life ( enjoy long lunches ), and you will live longer! I am just wondering how many days I added to my life while staying in Paris for four days. Scientists! This is worth of an experiment.

The cellar

After finishing the first bottle I was trying to find my way to the ladies room and there it is! Hidden downstairs at the end of the lovely cellar. Walking on the stones on the floor I felt as if I were in a little village in Burgundy or Bordeaux and not in the 10 million metropolis. You must see it.

Vivin
Tel: 0146241919
114 Avenue Achille Peretti
92200 Neuilly-Sur-Seine

La Tour d'Argent Paris

400, 000 bottles in a cellar in the middle of the French capital, that is really something! You can find not only a stunning collection of wines from all parts of France, but also can be pampered by gourmet food in the restaurant La Tour d’Argent nesting right on the bank of the Seine river.

The view is breathtaking. The lights of boats passing by and spectacular Notre Dame remind you that you are in one the most romantic places in the world – in Paris.

The cellar

Many diners visit the restaurant just for its wine list. What is impressive is the way in which the wines are kept. The cellar has the best temperature regulation in the whole of Paris. Stéphane Trapier, a second assistant head sommelier said: “We keep the wines under a very low temperature so they age slower than is usual. Therefore, the vintages you get here have a unique taste.”

Misleading reviews

La Tour D’Argent suffered from negative food reviews in the past couple of years, often rated simply as quite boring. Nevertheless, its proprietors – the family Terrail, spotted it just on time leading to a massive improvement in the menu.

The signature dish

You can spoil your taste butts on their famous Duck which has been served here to kings, queens, state leaders as well as to Holywood stars since its foundation in 1582! It is definitely one of the oldest restaurants in Europe, perhaps in the world! If you are not a big fan of a duck you can enjoy the mouth watering scallops with truffles or a foie gras melting in your mouth like a chocolate.

Famous diners

While having your aperitif downstairs at the cosy bar with a fireplace your eyes will be glued up to the walls full of the pictures and autographs from such honorable diners as Salvador Dali, J. F. Kennedy or king and queen of Japan.

Historical bottles

Though what is jaw-dropping are the bottles “enveloped” in dust whose labels only those with hieroglyphic skills can in some cases puzzle out. Chateu d’Yquiem 1880 or Grande Fine Champagne Tour d’Argent 1800 sit behind the glass enclosed cabinets.
Today, the cellar can be visited if you contact some of the sommeliers or the owners, but it wasn’t so always. During the Second World War, the treasures of the cellar were saved from devastation from Germans only thanks to Claude Terrail who walled off part of the cellars. His heroic effort protected one of the biggest cellars in France for further generations so you can still today, if you are patient enough, get on the long wait list and admire the bible sized wine list presented before your dinner.

The bible of wine lists

Once the wine list was in front of my eyes I couldn’t get my hands off of it. Nervous sommeliers must have been thinking that I found a new religion as I turned page by page of this massive book and studied all of its contents. It is strong on Burgundies. Treasures like Chambertin 1865 and Romanée 1874 may be well pass their peak, but they have an enormous value if you imagine that these vintages could have been drunk by Alexander II, Czar of All the Russias, or by F. D. Roosevelt, who both wined and dined here. The choice of Bordeaux doesn’t stand behind as you can find the strongest vintages such as 1982 or 1990 in most of the best Chateaux found there.

It is not just about wines

Bubbly aficionados will be more than pleased. Top vintage champagnes are nesting in the first part of the wine list. Besides, you can ask for a list of strong cognacs, brandies, French Armagnacs and Madeiras all of discernible vintages. Their higher concentration of alcohol extends their age worthiness when compared to wine.

I have tasted Madeira 1910, the oldest liquid ever in my mouth, and I can now confirm the dust on the bottle doesn’t mean that its content has the same life span as human beings. Contrary to this, this brownish sweet Madeira resembled leather, walnuts and dark wood on the palate. I had a sip of Malvasia Vintage Madeira 1934 as well as I was curious to find this grape variety typical for Sicily in a desert wine from Madeira. It was much sweater and gentler than the classical Madeira. I would say it was more of a female drink as it was more subtle on the palate.
I wasn’t lucky enough this time to visit the cellar as it was undergoing a reconstruction. Nevertheless, I was promised to see it on my next visit to Paris so keep reading my blog and soon you can see the secrets of one of the most interesting places not only for wine lovers right here on WINEBEING.
A quiz question at the end: I have had a bottle of wine there which I personally desired for a long time. I give you a hint – I love art and as most of us I find the year of my birth exceptional ( even though in the case of wine it is the right temperature, amount of sun and rain which makes the wine outstanding ). So which wine we were drinking at La Tour d’Argent?

A trendy Hungarian way to serve wine

I found this unique wooden wine dispenser at the Christmas market in Budapest. Together with my sister, a sommelier, we were intrigued by its sophisticated construction.
We were both wondering, why there aren’t more creative manufacturers of similar decorative and handy tools for wine lovers? Not just would they make wine drinking with friends more fun at home, but seeing these sculpted toys in the wine shops would add more “artisanal” feel to them. Don’t you think?

Vienna's Heurigen: enjoying great wines casually

High quality wine by the glass? Usually, you would have to visit one of the top gourmet wine restaurants or bars where you would pay a fortune for them. Not in Vienna.
Traditional Heurigen are a blessing for wine lovers visiting the Austrian capital as well as for locals. These legendary wine shops, which are sometimes also wine bars, with a traditional Austrian ambiance are run by Viennese wine growers. You can get a very nice glass of Grüner Veltliner for as little as 1,50 € or a tasting session of six varieties from 7 €.

Compared to the Middle Ages when the wines sprawled out right into the centre of the town, today you must head to the outskirts. In the North you find fine Riesling, Chardonnay and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) pampered by the limestone soil. The most popular and also more touristy area there is Grinzing.
If you want to escape the crowd then head to the South. Black earth soils favour strong white wines and opulent red cuvées (blends).
In a bone-chilling December I couldn’t explore any of the open wineries, so popular during the summer as you can enjoy wines outdoors with a spectacular view on Vienna.
During the winter you have to look for places with their own warm premises where you can taste the whole evening and in some even get a bite to eat.
I’ve visited Steinklammer, located in the Southern area of Mauer. This Heuriger has over 310 years of tradition and their staff is very helpful.

Their lovely wooden inn was perfect for an icy evening. Starting with a glass of white Grüner Veltliner, high in acidity and tasting like a ripe green pear, I was a bit disappointed as it was perhaps too young for me.
Nevertheless, I moved to a Riesling, Reisberg, 2008 smelling like an elder flower, which with its balanced and refreshing citrus aroma enticed me to taste more.
I moved to reds and went for a tasting of six varieties for 9€. They were served on a long wooden tray with six fitted cuts for glasses.
The most interesting was Cabernet Franc 2002. Sweet at the beginning reminding me a black currant juice and later moving to deeper tones of casis.
Similar to this was Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 as it was quite fruity as well, but more distinct tannins in the mouth.
Cuvée Titan 2005 was a blend of Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Its unique taste of raisins and griotte was a pearl in a shell. Now I could happily leave this cosy Heuriger lucky enough to have a friend to take me home in her car. No way I would be able to drive after such a feast!
Still I was far from tasting all. In Vienna you can explore a wide variety of the typical “Gemischter Satz”, which is a wine made from different grape varieties planted next to each other and even harvested together.
Viennese are not afraid to experiment, but not on the account of the quality. Their wines will surprise you.
I bet, that most of you will know mostly the white Austrian wines as they make for 70% of the total production. That said the remaining 30% of reds are worth trial, at least for me they were a pleasant surprise. Let me know if I am wrong.
Look at the list of some Heurigen in Vienna and some facts about Heurigen in Vienna.

Hungarian wines aren’t just about Tokaji

There are over 20 wine regions in Hungary. During my visit of Budapest I got recommended the Southern area Villányi near the border with Serbia.
Villányi has high potential with its red wines high in tannins often with oak aroma as they age in the oak barrels.

One of the top producers there is Ede Tiffan, whose son Zsolt is a co-owner of a wine bar Andante next to the spectacular chain bridge in Budapest. Andante proudly offers the widest selection of wines by the glass in the town. Their prices are more than friendly and you can savour some organic snacks and cheese.
Moreover, Ede Tiffan was the first winner of the vineyard of the year in 1990 in Hungary. His Régimondi Cuvée had a rich and full bodied taste.
Tiffan establishes concurrence for the other big producer István Szépsy, who is the king of the Tokaj region. His success proves that great Hungarian wines aren’t just in Tokaj.

From Villányi I have tasted the red Pinot Noir 2007 with lovely tannins quite surprising in Hungarian wines. It is aged in the oak barrels therefore you will find in it some wooden reminiscences.
The producers from Villányi are proud of their cuvées (blends). I have relished the Bordeux blend (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) in Gere Kopar Cuvée 2006. Its wooden tones smoothening with age seal the high quality.
If you go for this cuvée then go for 2003 as according to the wine waiter Mihaly Vajda this one was just spectacular. You can order it by e-mail or call to the Présház wine store.

Présház wine store:
Tel:+36 1 266 1100
Website: www.preshaz.hu/en/

Tokaj: the treasure of Hungary

Popularity of the sweet wines from the Tokaj region in the North-East of Hungary isn’t a new phenomena.

Already in the 18.century Tokaji was enjoyed by the European courts and the Tokaji style was copied by such renowned areas as Sauternes. Today, producers from Sauternes ask astronomic prices for their wines, while Tokaji are still down to earth.
The name Tokay is used by French for wines made from Pinot Gris, so it is often being misused for the sweet wines from the region of Tokaj in Hungary.

Challenging 20th century

Unfortunately, during the Communist era after the WWII. the wine production in Hungary suffered and had to be reborn in 1990s thanks to generous investors from Western Europe.

Promising future

Today, there are many small wine makers producing first class wines. They proudly use local grape varieties as well as the typical European vines (mostly French and German).

Between the local whites you can explore the acidic a wine shop which, if not used for a sweet Tokaji, offers refreshing wine resembling Granny Smith apples. However, mostly it is used in Tokaji for its acidity balancing the sugars typical for this wine.

The trick

Tokaji gets its sweetness from the fungus a wine shop which actually dries the grapes out therefore the concentration of sugars is higher than in non-botrytised grapes. Mihaly Vajda, a sommelier at the excellent Royal Tokaji Aszú, 5 Puttonyos 2005 in Budapest explained that the selection of the best grapes is called Aszú. Therefore if you see a wine shop, you can be sure that you are getting something special.
The quality and sweetness of Tokaji is measured by PUTTONYOS numbered from 3-6. The higher the number the more acidity and sugars as well as quality. Mihaly said: “It isn’t just about numbers, ideal is when the acidity perfectly balances the sweetness, then you get exceptional Tokaji.” Furthermore, there isn’t a number classification above 6. In the good years the essence (Esszencia) squeezed from the grapes is added to the must and then you get the outstanding Tokaji Aszú Esszencia.
Mihaly is also working in a wine shop at Mérleg street in central Budapest. Their wide selection of wines is often accompanied by tastings and professional advice from their well spoken staff makes it an ideal place to purchase some wine.

International awards

In 2012, the Royal Tokaji Aszú, 5 Puttonyos 2005 got to the Top 100 rating by the The Wine Spectator (leading wine magazine in the US ). It achieved the 44. ranking from all wines tasted. I had to get a bottle. Not the cheapest, but still affordable. This wine is really worth it. Lovely sweetness isn’t too heavy, excellent balance with its acidity. Honeyed apricot with orange peel prevailing in its taste. Perfect for deserts, fruits, and blue cheese. Don’t mix it with the mouth watering Hungarian foie gras though, for that it is better to get sweet Szamorodni Édes Tokaji. I have tasted the one from the top producer Szepsy with ripe apricot and honey flavor. With the selection of the most delicate foi gras I have ever had at the Tigris restaurant I felt like I was on a different planet.

Greek wine

Wine has been popular for centuries. On paintings depicting Ancient Greek festivities you will see wine and grape motives again and again, even though some try to proove that for example Aristotle did mean by his legendary quote “it is WINE in name, but not in effect…” that what they were drinking there wasn’t actually the alcoholic beverage as we know it these days!
Whatever it was that Greeks were drinking, it must have had some particular effect different from typical non-alcoholic drinks, otherwise there wouldn’t be any god of wine often also connected to ecstatic experience as Dionysus (also called Bacchus) was. The wine jugs you can see in museums all over the world suggest that Greeks were not just making a juice from grapes. Besides, the acclaimed intellectual gatherings called “symposia” where drinking wine was accompanied by philosophical discussions suggests that wine was almost a sacred drink and it had not much in common with fruit juices like Innocent smoothies nowadays.
What more, there are over 300 indigenous grape varieties in Greece!
I have tried Assyrtiko from one of the Aegean islands Santorini.

Thalassitis is one of the signature wines of Gaia winery, producing wines since 1994. It has light citrus aroma with earthy sub-tones. Its acidity you feel at the finish is quite unique for the wine’s rather high alcohol content.
Have you tried any Greek wines? If yes, which one and how did you like it?
You can get Greek wine made from Assyrtiko grapes at wine-searcher or in many shops and supermarkets in the UK (Waitrose has some).
More about history of wine.

World's Youngest Wine Critic

Wonderful stuff you find at YouTube! Though I must add that she wasn’t drinking real wine because of her age. What a creative parents she has!

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EnW2x_ulCWc&feature=player_embedded]
This video triggers a question. What age should be made legal for drinking wine? Do you thing it should be different in every country as for example in France or in Italy wine is part of a family dinner?
It has been often claimed that children often don’t like wine as the taste for it develops with age. Isn’t it a kind of a natural protection against premature drinking?

The oldest wine bar in London

We all like rankings so I have researched the archives and found THE OLDEST WINE MERCHANT IN LONDON, THE OLDEST WINE BAR IN LONDON and THE OLDEST KNOWN WINE PRESENT IN LONDON.
THE OLDEST WINE MERCHANT IN LONDON is Berry Bros. & Rudd founded in 1698.

They are not only the oldest wine shop, but also the oldest spirits shop in the whole Britain.
Berry Bros.&Rudd have been trading their wines and liquors from the same shop on St James’s Street in London since their first days.
THE OLDEST WINE BAR IN LONDON is Gordon’s Wine Bar in Embankment, which has been established in its present form since 1890.

THE OLDEST WINE CLUB IN LONDON and in the world is The Wine Society created in London in 1874 by a diverse trio of an architect, a surgeon and a customs’ official.

All this is interesting, though it sparks a question: Who is the oldest wine drinker in London?
If you have any ideas, please send them to me, I would love to meet him/her in person!

The Sampler: From a venture capitalist to an award winning wine merchant

A co-owner of a popular wine shop in Islington Jamie Hutchinson isn’t just another wine seller.

When he and his partner Dawn Mannis finally opened The Sampler in December 2006 after long planning they set out to be an independent shop. Jamie sees it as a key to stay unbiased.

The secret of success

Being free from any commercialized restrictions from a big chain is the main reason for an unprecedented success of this small wine shop. Jamie said: “For us it is important not to be brand centric and be quality driven as well as offering good personalised service.” Not like many commercial merchants who should be more interested in wines and have a more personal approach to their customers.

Awards

The individual approach was rewarded by winning the Enomatic wine dispensersReaders Choice Small Wine Merchant of the Year 2009 and many other awards. Although Jamie treasures the readers choice the most as they are his customers.

Want a sip of Chateau la Tour?

What distinguishes The Sampler from the majority of sellers is that you can taste the wine before you actually buy it! What a wonderful idea saving you from disappointment and waste of money. Wines can be pricey and Jamie with his team knows it. He said: ” The idea is to get people comfortable or to try different wines. They can experiment and hopefully find the wine they enjoy because they would not have otherwise even found it.”
That is why the shop is equipped with the Enomatic wine dispensers enabling sampling of smaller amounts of variety of wines. There are 80 dispensers and wines are being changed regularly so you will never get bored by The Sampler. This system originated in Italy where Jamie had seen it for the first time while visiting the Tuscan village Greve in Chianti.
You may ponder about how the wines stay fresh and do not oxidise after opening. The smart Enomatic system solves this problem as it keeps wines under nitrogenium environment preserving them for up to three weeks from oxidation. So you can get to taste such treasures like Chateau La Tour. The most expensive bottle The Sampler has ever put to taste cost £1500 and Jamie nods that it was not a £15 per sip deal.

Sampling

How sampling actually works? You buy a prepaid card and then just stick it into the reader on the dispenser with the wine you wish to taste, and then just pour the wine into a glass provided in the shop. Easy. You can spend as little as 30p but you can get to £100 if you want to get something special. Furthermore, if you want to taste more you can choose the multiple dispensation and assure yourself that this is really the wine you want to buy.
You may be tempted to visit The Sampler to get a couple of glasses, but this is not the point. Jamie stressed: “We are not at all a bar. We do not provide much seating so people realise that our main thing is to sell wine. We don’t charge enough for the glass to cover the cost. Nevertheless, we give customers an opportunity to know beforehand what they are buying. Nearly all people buy at least a bottle after sampling.”

Variety of regions

The wines are organised by the grape variety and the country they are from making your choice easier. The worldwide selection isn’t just a matter of variety. Jamie had been exploring wine countries since he was a child which contributed to his excellent knowledge about wine. From all the regions he has visited he liked the Douro Valley in Portugal the most. He said: “Concretely the central part of the Douro is incredibly beautiful. Looking from the river up to the steep vineyards is an unforgettable experience.”

Bubbles in Britain

Getting back on Earth from our daydreaming we discussed today’s trends in Britain. Jamie sees significant potential in sparkling wines in the British wine industry. With global temperatures rising some areas such as Rioja in Spain will benefit and Jamie recognises the similarity between the Champagne region in France and Southern UK.

“A responsible brand”

The popularity of organic products gets along with The Sampler’s vision. Jamie said: “I like to see it on the label as it shows the effort and care the winemaker put into his wine.”
Charity became also part of The Sampler. Movember, a charitable organisation helping men with prostate problems, touched hearts of the team as they appeal to their customers to contribute to a good cause.

You can not only sample and buy wine plus get professional advice at The Sampler but also you can attend one of their tasting events. The earliest one takes place this Sunday from 1- 6pm and is in the spirit of Christmas. Jamie disclosed to me the wine selection and I must just add you should not miss it. Although I won’t tell you what you will taste as it is good to be surprised sometimes.
The Sampler is located on 266 Upper Street in Islington, London and is open daily.

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