France Archives - Page 12 of 15

Clos de Gustave in Gordes: family business set in ancient village

Chef: Jean-Didier Mathis and his team received in November 2011 the distinction of “Maitre-Restaurateur“, the highly acclaimed title for French restaurants preparing all their authentic meals on premises with the freshest ingredients.
Atmosphere: Friendly, authentic and casual. During the warm summer evenings, you will find most diners eating either outside in the garden or in a covered terrace. The restaurant is located in the quiet part of the old village of Gordes, which is very popular with tourists. Clos de Gustave is not a touristy place serving fries and simple meals, many locals and travelers from far away alike come to dine here because of its friendly service, family atmosphere and excellent authentic Provencal food. You can wait sometimes a bit longer for your order, but it does not spoil your evening, unless you are in a hurry somewhere. Who is rushing in Gordes, though? The warm, welcome feel the waiting staff spreads across the restaurant makes one feel relaxed and happy. Later, your patience is also rewarded by the great food the chef and his team prepared.
Food: Seasonal, fresh, authentic. The menu changes every day and features fresh seasonal produce from local markets. After being served a fresh home-made white bread with olive oil, you can savor the Sampler starters, selected daily by the chef. These are an excellent opportunity to try something very local. Every time I dine at the Clos de Gustave, there is something new and tasty in the starter selection.
During our visit this summer we were treated to a fresh cantaloupe melon infused with sweet wine, cherry tomatoes with mint and local goat cheese, excellent white fish ravioli sprinkled with parmesan and herbs, a bowl of green salad with olive oil and a concentrated yet refreshing vegetable velouté. It was all simply amazing with the chilled velouté and ravioli winning all of our palates.

As my main course I ordered the Free Range Guinea Fowl Caramelized With Honey and Fresh Figs. The wing and thigh of Guinea fowl was roasted with lavander honey giving the meat juicy sweet texture. Fresh herbs including sage were tossed all over the plate not only as a decoration, but they also added a breadth to the otherwise boring guinea fowl meat. Well-cooked and genially accompanied with sumptuous and sweet figs, this was a guinea fowl that would please even the less excited fans of this bird on a plate.

Gigotin of Lamb Roasted With Delicate Anchovy Cream in French called “souris d”agneau” was basically a lamb shank cooked in the oven, drizzled with anchovy cream and green rocket.
The main meals are usually served with mashed potato and one vegetable side dish. On this occasion we were given a juicy and steaming ratatouille ( the typical French vegetable stew). They both went particularly well with the succulent lamb.

Instead of a dessert we went for a selection of fresh local goats cheeses – one plain, one with red peppers, one with herbs and a creamy one with a rind. They were served with local sweet jelly and perfect with the bread baked every morning at Clos de Gustave.
Cuisine: French traditional Provencal cuisine
Visit: August 2012
Price: Medium (Depending on what menu you choose: an assortment of starters is generous for €11 per person, main courses around €25; degustation of 10 specialities & 5 desserts for €35).
Drinks: From a regional aperitif such as pastis to the national pride of the French – the wines, you will be drinking for a great value. The wines are sourced from independent wineries in the area. We had an excellent local Merlot once there, but this time we ordered Château Les Eydins Cuvée des Consuls 2010 from Luberon. This organic blend of Syrah, Grenache and old Carignan had a fresh acidity, sweet tannins and concentrated dark fruits – all included. Paying €34 for a wine of such character was indeed a pleasure!
Opening season and hours: From late March till mid November every evening from 7:30 pm (except Sundays).
Contact: tel: +33 (0) 4 90 72 04 25
Address: Route de Murs 84 220 Gordes, France

Châteauneuf du Pape: village dedicated to its wines

In the 14th century, the period when Popes relocated to Avignon, the Pope Jean XXII chose Châteauneuf as his summer residence. Perhaps, it was the need or the thirst of the priests for the mass wine, guided by the divine spirit, that the Pope incentivised the extension of the wine plantations on the rocky soil around the village. The vines were planted there well before. The Gauls and the Romans cultivated vines for winemaking and spread their traditions across Europe. The Pope was one of the first wine producers in Châteauneuf though, soon to be called Châteauneuf du Pape (The Pope’s New Castle).

In spite of the divine motivation, it was not until the 18th century before the wines of Châteauneuf du Pape gained an international fame. One of the most apt local wine growers was Marquis Tulle de Villefranche, also the former proprietor of today’s Château La Nerthe, who exported his wines through a network of dealers asking high prices, which many of his aristocratic clients did not hesitate paying. It is a paradox today, that the majority of the French do not want to pay the high prices that the wines of Châteauneuf du Pape dictate, but the profits from the 70% (approximately) exported wine allow for the wine business in the region thrive.

Geography and soil of Châteauneuf du Pape

Settled between Avignon in the South and Orange in the North, Châteauneuf du Pape is located in the lowest part of the Rhône Valley in France. It is known for its stony soil covered with galets roulés (oval-shaped stones). These round pebbles reflect sun, and in doing so keep moisture in the soil during the warm summer months. The reflected heat also assists with drying the grapes after rain so many diseases that thrive in wet conditions are kept on bay. Here, you see the divine power!

Grape varietals

The AOC Châteauneuf du Pape is unusual in that sense that 13 grape varietals are permitted in its red wines. Not all the châteaux though plant all of them. The two most famous – Beaucastel and Domaine du Vieux Telégraphe – include all 13 in their vineyards. Is this yet another Christian coincidence? 13 equals Jesus plus his 12 Apostles. Intriguing.
Just for an illustration, look below at the picture (excuse the wine stains, I took it after a wine tasting served on this very sheet of paper), where each of the local grapes’ aromatic and gustatory contribution to the blend is explained very well.

The ancient village of Châteauneuf du Pape

The remains of the Papal castle are located away from the town’s centre and, unless you get lost in the wine cellars lining the narrow cobbled streets, you can reach it within a five-minute walk. It has been ruined over the centuries, but the dilapidated castle offers magnificent views across the Rhône Valley, Luberon and even part of Avignon where the former Papal palace is located. The town’s heart is Place de la Fontaine, where the famous restaurant La Mére Germaine sinfully seduces thirsty flocks of tourists and visitors from around the world.

In the Place de la Fontaine’s proximity there are many wine tasting cellars offering wines from different domaines. Most of them do not charge for the tasting, but you will surely please them if you buy the wines you liked the most during the degustation directly from them. Their prices are better than at the restaurants and surely they will sweep the much higher costs of these wines abroad.

Degustation at Caveau D’Brunel

The unusual bottle shape was not the first think that stroke my eyes at the family-owned Caveau d’Brunel. Rather it was the friendly and smiling French (!) lady that was offering the wines for tasting. She explained the story behind each wine and she was especially proud of the red blend Danièle Brunel made by her family. The Brunel family owns vineyards in the Châteauneuf du Pape, Côtes du Rhône Villages, and Rasteau appellations.
My absolute favourite from all the wines we tasted there (including a half bottle of Domaine du Vieux Telégraphe 2009) was the Château de la Gardine Cuvée des Génerations Gaston Philippe 2009, so we bought a case, and after over seven years it is still drinking very well.
Balanced, concentrated, yet still keeping elegance, this red blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre was juicy, deep and long tasting.

There are many other cellars, but Caveau D’Brunel was recommended during our lunch at La Mére Germaine and we very much enjoyed the experience.
For an interesting comparison of old versus modern style wines from Châteauneuf du Pape look at these choices by Eric Pfanner in New York Times July 21-22, 2012 article Rustic Jewel of the Rhône Meets Modernity.

Château La Nerthe: one of the oldest wineries in Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Château La Nerthe is one of the oldest wineries in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The estate was allegedly established already in the 12th century, in the period when the popes were residing in Avignon and made Châteauneuf-du-Pape their summer residence as well as the main source for the mass wine. Then known under the name Grange de Beauvenir, the château was first documented though around 1560 and subsequently owned by various owners often coming from aristocratic families.

The winery was built in the 16th century. There are also stone tanks built into the walls that are about 1.20 m wide, and these were used to age the wines since the beginning of the production at the château. Some wines are still matured in them, while the other reds and some white grapes added to the blend (Roussane, Clairette) are vinified and aged in the large wood barrels typical for the traditional Châteauneuf-du-Pape reds. Only natural yeasts are used to initiate the fermentation process. The remaining white grapes are matured in the stainless steel tanks and subsequently blended. No malolactic fermentation is used in the production of the white wines since the winery aims to preserve the freshness and the fruity character of their wines.

Château La Nerthe cellar & vinothèque

The oldest part of the cellar (built in 1560) was dug directly in the stone, mineral wall containing cobalt (safre). You can see it above on my picture. It is very hard to clean, but it is meticulously being done by a dedicated person at the winery because the tanks are still in use.
There is a lovely arched cave housing the small as well as the huge oak barrels in which the wines are being aged. Yet, the most impressive feature of the cellar at Château La Nerthe is the “vinothèque” holding the private reserves of some of the greatest chefs and restaurants.
Legendary chefs including Alain Ducasse and also the oldest restaurant in Paris – La Tour d’Argent, they both have their golden nameplate above the wines that will once be featured on their cash rolling wine lists.

The annual production of Château la Nerthe is almost 300,000 bottles of red and 40,000 bottles of white wine. It is not a small winery, but also not a giant making cheap commercial wines. An average age of the vines is 40 years and the oldest ones are over 110 years old!
During my visit I have tasted these wines:
Château La Nerthe 2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc – a fragrant white blend of Grenache blanc, Roussane, Bourboulenc and Clairette. It was partially matured in barrels and stainless steel vats.
The reds are usually the blends of Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cinsault with a small proportion of other grapes included in the 13 allowed varietals in the A.O.C. Châteauneuf-du-Pape. These grapes are matured separately, some in large wooden casks and others in oak barrels. They are also later tasted separately and then blended to the winemaker’s satisfaction.
Château La Nerthe 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge – the highest percentage of Grenache from all the reds that I have tried and it showed on the palate. Very deep and strong wine with a shrewd sweetness on the nose and a vivid alcohol aftertaste. It is surely a food wine and needs a big chunk of meat to tame its rogue muscle.
Château La Nerthe 2008 Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge – my favourite as it was the most balanced wine at the tasting. A cigar box on the nose, vibrant acidity and tannins on the palate with slight touch of dark fruits.
Château La Nerthe 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge – the 2009 was an excellent vintage producing age-worthy wines with lots of fruits in the youthful profile. It needs time to mellow its strong character though. Juicy, bursting with dark fruits, but dominated by the more acidic blackberry.
After the tasting at the Château it was not just me, but also many other wine connoisseurs who felt so light, exactly like the sculpture in the tasting room. (Pictured bellow) What a real piece of art!

route de Sorgues 84230 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France
+33 4 90 83 70 11

La Bastide de Gordes: gastronomic bistro with stunning views

Le Bistrot de la Véranda offers either a daily changed lunch menu or a seasonal « à la carte » selection and stunning views across a lush valley spanning from the ancient village of Gordes across the Luberon.

Atmosphere: Fresh, family friendly and breathtaking vista. Although the bistro is located at a luxurious hotel, compared to its gastronomic restaurant, this is a casual spot to dine. You can wear your tourist attire as well as a nice summer dress and shirt. Fresh breeze coming from the valley lets you forget the steaming hot trail through the old village and provides natural air-conditioning on the terrace cut into the steep rocks of the Gordes hill. As we dined there, we spotted families with larger tables and their kids ordering special dishes the restaurant provided for them – from pasta to french fries, it seemed that they got what they desired. These were nice and orderly children, who knew how to behave at a nice place, so even the childless couples had their romantic lunch experience guaranteed without any disruptions.

Food: Fresh, creative and full of flavor. Using mostly local ingredients the chef creates daily a Menu du marché – a three-course lunch menu including a glass of local wine and coffee. One never gets bored with his creations. The starter of Gâteau de poulpe, fine semoule et poivrons marinés. The Octopus cake made with fine semolina and marinated red peppers was prodigious in terms of mastering the seemingly disparate ingredients in one dish. The tiny slices of octopus added texture to the semolina cake, the marinated peppers sweetness and juice, the pepper gazpacho was like a juicy sauce, the rocket brought some bitter touch to the sweetness of the peppers and the crispy cheese cracker on the top was a sophisticated touch of savour topping the multiple pleasures from this dish.

The melon season announced itself in another starter, this time on the regular à la carte menu. The Coeur de melon et jambon cru (Fresh melon and raw ham) was simple, but exquisite. Juicy and sweet melon was in harmony with the ham.

Even more meaty was the terrine from the same menu. La terrine de campagne provençale (Country style provençal pâté) felt like grandmother’s own terrine. Capers and salad added freshness and fruit chutney sweetness reducing the strong meat in the terrine.

Moving to the main courses with La rascasse en bouillabaisse (Scorpion fish in bouillabaisse) our friend did not go wrong. This authentic yet innovative dish based on the local fish used often in bouillabaisse and served with green beens swimming in a rich creamy sauce with young potatoes and vegetables attracted our friend because of the scorpion fish. He had never heard about it and wanted to try it. As he finished the whole plate I assume that he liked it a lot.

Cuisine: French gastronomic bistro
Visit: August 2012
Price: medium (if you get two starters for lunch) to high (the bistro is located in a five-star hotel, three-course lunch menu varies daily from 30€ to 38€, à la carte starters €12, mains €25 and desserts with cheese €9)
Drinks: Great local wines selection with reasonable prices. The rosé we got though was little bit too strawberry perfumed for me, lacking balance between freshness and flavor. For a light lunch I prefer something crisp and refreshing, perhaps rather going into the delicate peach aroma as most of the Provençal rosés posses. I got a glass of local white wine as a consequence and was extremely happy with it since it delivered the crispness and aroma I craved for. You can taste the wine by the glass before so if you do not like it you can choose something else instead.
Opening hours: Lunch : 12.30 – 2.15 pm daily
Contact: +33 (0) 4 90 72 12 12
Address: Rue de la Combe 84220 Gordes, France

Le Phébus: gastronomic retreat in Luberon with chef Xavier Mathieu

The chef at Le Phébus Xavier Mathieu seasonally reinvents the Mediterranean cuisine. Textures, colors, and nature are his inspiration to recreate the old provençal recipes he knew since he was a child. He was awarded one Michelin star and is an author of a cookbook called “Provence Voyage Culinaire” (“Culinary voyage through Provence”).

Atmosphere: The restaurant is located at a tranquil Hostellerie Le Phébus. This luxurious hotel is a member of the high-end Relais Chateaux group. During the summer, most guests prefer dining outside at a spacious terrace. The views from here are soothing and the water running from the fountain in the garden has a meditative effect on your senses. It is a great romantic spot for couples as well as a calming retreat for busy city dwellers. Listening to the continuous hum of cicadas and sipping on your wine is a dream-come-true for many stressed citizens of the modern world. Here you can dress up, unwind and savor the calm.
Food: Creative, good-looking, but lacking original, enjoyable and engaging flavors. For me as well for my dining partner the food was quite bland and boring. The only reward was the final cheese plate we each selected from a luscious cheese board.

I had selected an appetizer from the chef’s special menu called “Mon histoire, ma vie” (My history, my life). The Brandado vo gangasso, morue aux poireaux de Mémé Rose, pavé mosaïque looked artistic and was good. However sophisticated was the name, though, the Salted cod fish with Mémé Rose viennoise leek tasted more like a dish I would get at a basic tapas bar or a brasserie for a fifth of the price. It was just salty and that was it, I could not find many other flavors in this dish.
Another rich yet boring starter was the Cold crayfish “vichyssoise” soup with potatoes and fennel. It was not bad, just not as interesting as one would imagine for a Michelin star restaurant.

The main courses were not much of an upgrade. Again they looked interesting, but there was not much substance under the cover as they were just good enough to eat, but many would not return to try them again.
The Adobo Provençau, Joue et queue de bœuf aux carottes, miel, moutarde de betterave et baies de genévrier or Cheek and beef tail with carrots, honey, beets mustard and juniper berries was far from being a grandmother’s meal as well as far from bursting with complex flavors.

I liked the Roasted scorpion fish, tomatoes, squid and garlic “bourride” with Espelette red pepper the most, although I would not serve it with the chewy squids. The sauce was rich and the peppers juicy adding flavor to the sauce-friendly scorpion fish. The same fish is often used in France in the Bouillabaisse soup.
Finally, as we saw the cheese trolley, we had not been able to resist and each picked goat, sheep and cow cheese. They were all in great shape and excellent cheeses. I would say a highlight of the dinner.
We did not trust the menu anymore, so we did not order any desserts. We were more curious about the petit fours trolley. It was fun as we selected candies, cookies and marshmallows to go with our tea at the end of the dinner. I had to order my favorite verveine infusion (verbena) so popular in this part of France. This herbal leafy tisane has a soft citrus aroma, yet it is soothing after dinner.
Cuisine: French gastronomic
Price: high (appetizers around €30; mains well above €30)
Drinks: The French wine list entails many low production wineries from the region. On the sommelier’s suggestion, we got a bottle of elegant red wine from Domaine Hauvette 2004 vintage. It was not cheap. At €122 per a bottle it was not a bargain, but it satisfied my highly selective palate as most of the top Bordeaux would have at a much higher price at a restaurant. There are champagnes, white, rosé and red wine by the glass as well as digestives such as Porto and aperitifs such as the local scary (at least for me) green Pastis.
In the season open daily for dinner, closed on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday for lunch.
+33(0) 4 90 05 78 83
Route de Murs; Joucas; 84220 Gordes; France

La Mère Germaine: traditional French cuisine in the heart of Châteauneuf-du-Pape

La Mère Germaine is a vibrant and friendly restaurant that was first opened in 1922 by Madame Germaine Vion, who was previously the chef at the Élysée Palace in Paris. Thus the name of this iconic Châteauneuf-du-Pape restaurant was born.

Recently it was renovated and reopened by its new owner Andre Mazy, who also monthly selects special local wines for all the wine enthusiasts visiting the village from all corners of the world. During my visit, there was a large Chinese group wine tasting in one of the rooms, but the wine tasting area is separated from the other dining rooms and we enjoyed a relaxed lunch with tremendous views of the vineyard-dominated Southern Rhone landscape.

Atmosphere: Casual, artsy and fresh. There are three dining areas. The first room has been infused with art as the paintings hang, the sculptures stand and to encourage creativity wine is being tasted there. The room with huge old windows and a mirrored wall allows for the natural light from outside to lighten up the room. The last is a terrace protected from the Mistral wind by windows built into the arches, so you can savour the sun and fresh air without your napkin flying all over the place. It is a very casual place where locals chat with foreigners. Although the entire menu is in French, the friendly staff explains what each dish is about.
The food at La Mère Germaine is traditional yet slightly innovative with a daily changing lunch menu, so one never gets bored. There is usually one fish and a number of meat courses, vegetarians will have to request something special. The food is honest, the portions generous and it is intensely tasty – no salt and herbs was spared on preparing these meals.

Since the food is changed daily, I will try to give you an idea, what it could be like from the dishes we had during our Monday lunch at La Mère Germaine. We tried all three appetisers on offer, all without the exception delicious.
The Terrine de Poissons Aux Herbes, Tartare de Tomates was delicate and a quite light starter. The fish in the egg-based terrine was freshened up with the herbs and the zesty chopped tomatoes on the side added some juice to the otherwise dry terrine. It was perfectly balanced and excellent with a glass of a medium-bodied white Rhone wine.
The cantaloupe melon was in season and most of the restaurants in the region included this Southern fruit in their menu. At La Mère Germaine they have adopted a more sophisticated starter beyond the classical melon with ham. The Fraîcheur de Melon et Caillette, Gaspacho de Melon was served with a side of a small cantaloupe gazpacho, the chopped melon slices with herbs and vegetables were made into a salad and a meat terrine, so there was a little bit of everything. The gazpacho was refreshing and not too sweet, the salad with melon resembled more the Asian style of fruit and veggie mixed salads and the terrine was based on a great quality of meat.
The third starter of Foie Gras Confit, Chutney de Melon Jaune, Cake à la Verveine called for an aromatic even slightly sweet white wine or a fruity tannic red would cut through the fatness of the duck liver. Another great use of the cantaloupe here. There must have been an over-production of melons this year in France! The sweet character of the melon chutney combined with the verveine (verbena) infused cake instead of the commonly used bread or brioche was unique and very tasty accompaniment to the delicate Foie Gras.

From the main courses we went for the Filet de Cabillaud Roti, Matignon de Légumes et Coques, Fleur de Courgette Farcie. The roasted cod filet with vegetables and cockles (small mussels) stuffed in a courgette flower had not a fault. It was an interesting way with cod. White wine is a must since seafood combined with fish and green vegetables rarely go with red, unless there is a rich sauce such as tomato or a meat juice in it.
And finally, the real carnivores would be delighted by the Gigot à Agneau Rosé, Pommes Croustillantes, Légumes Sautés, Tomates Confits. The traditional chunks of cooked lamb were served with potatoes, sautéed vegetables and preserved tomatoes. If one was still hungry after eating the sexy thigh of lamb, then a dessert filled the gap. We had space only for a cup of coffee and tea, and the scheduled wine tasting in front of us, so we had to preserve our stamina for the afternoon happenings. Judging from the neighbours’ plates, the sweets at La Mère Germaine looked worth savouring.

Drinks: The wine list is specialised on the Rhone Valley wines for great prices for a restaurant. Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines are listed by vintage with the oldest wines reaching over 40 years back. The owner offers a special local selection of great-value-wines each month. Nevertheless, there are some Burgundies, Champagne and other lesser known wines from around France.
We started with a local white wine from Domaine Lou Devete 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Les Poéses de Marie, a blend 50% Grenache Blanc and 50% Clairette aged for six months in barriques (small oak barrels). The production is quite small. Depending on the year it usually reaches about 1.300 bottles. It was refreshing yet deep and ideal with our appetisers. Later, we ordered another lesser known red from the Domaine du Lampourdier 2010 from the nearby Côtes du Rhone appellation. It was intense with a hint of spice from the Syrah in the blend. Great and juicy wine with the lamb, but a bit too intense for the fish main course.
Cuisine: French traditional bistro style; Southern Rhone cuisine
Price: medium (three-course lunch menu €23; four-course dinner menu €37)
+33 4 90 22 78 34
3 Rue Commandant Lemaître; 84230 Châteauneuf-du-Pape; France

Le Strand in St Tropez

Le Strand is conveniently located near the St Tropez’ Citadelle, away from the town’s crowds. It is a lively restaurant, just not as noisy as the restaurants in the port. Despite being owned by the same group as the legendary clubbing restaurant Niki Beach nearby, it attracts a very different crowd. More foodies and lovely ambiance seeking diners tend to frequent Le Strand. Another big plus is its courtyard where eating becomes a refreshing escape from a hotel room. Its fashionable sister restaurant in St. Barths is not known for excellent food, but the Strand in St Tropez amends the reputation with high-quality seafood, fish as well as meat and fresh vegetables.

Atmosphere: Modern elegant inside and refreshing on the terrace under the trees where a Dj plays ear-pleasing lounge tunes each night of the summer season. During the summer, most people prefer the outside seating therefore, it is better to mention your desire when making your reservation. The service is very friendly and accommodating. Do not hesitate to ask for a better table if the restaurant is not full yet.
Food: Modern yet with a traditional French and Italian base. The olive bread is fresh and crunchy, making for a perfect teaser before your dinner. Just do not eat more than one bun and leave some space for the good food that is about to come.
From the more local French appetizers, I like the Asparagus served with poached egg and truffles. Enjoyable with a glass of champagne or a crisp dry white wine, this dish breaks the wine and food pairing guides’ misconception that eggs go hardly with wine. Adding zesty and crunchy asparagus as well as aromatic black truffles makes

The Italian Burrata mozzarella with tomato salad is incredible here. A creamy texture of the cheese and an original take on the tomatoes traditionally accompanying this starter make it a hard-to-resist temptation.
The fish on the menu is all local and fresh. The Sea bass and barigoule artichoke may look a bit dull, but it is very good. The fish has a delicate texture, the vegetables are cooked to crispness and the soft artichoke balances the dish out with its mellowness. An olive oil, onion and chopped veggies-based condiment adds a bit of zest and juice to the fish, but it did not work for me with the vegetables served with the dish.

For those not finding their favorite on the menu, the fish of the day are presented by your waiter on a tray before you order, so you might find your catch there. Encountering the robust lobster, one hardly resists. The Grilled lobster, as well as Prawns are both excellent. Delicate, juicy and melting in your mouth you might even skip the sauces served with it. If you are lucky on the day you dine at The Strand, the lobster can be huge so get ready for it!

From the sides going for the Mashed potatoes with truffles will not disappoint you, unless you are a fan of a super-creamy and buttery à la Joel Robuchon take on this traditional French accompaniment to a meal. At the Strand the mash is more of a home style with crumbles of potatoes traceable in your mouth, the truffles add a festive touch.
Beef and veal dominate the meat dishes on the menu. The Italian Beef Rossini is very good.
I rarely get a dessert here, not that they would look unappetizing, but my favorite ice cream seller in France (Barbarac) is just a five-minute stroll along the port, so I must keep my sweet tooth on a leash until then.
Cuisine: Contemporary Mediterranean – French and Italian
Drinks: The bar and a Champagne lounge is convenient for a drink while you might be waiting for your table. I have never had a cocktail there, but the champagne and French wines by the glass will certainly uplift your spirit before a dinner. The wine list is all French wine and champagne with medium-high price points prevailing. When we eat seafood we get a bottle of Burgundy and when meat then we tend to go for Cotes du Rhone or Bordeaux.
From May-October: every evening from 7:30 pm
+33 (0) 4 94 97 43 22
2 Rue du Petit Bal, 83990 Saint-Tropez, France

La Voile at La Réserve Ramatuelle: light gourmet food near Saint Tropez

The chef Eric Canino is known as one of the pioneers of healthy French cuisine. In the fashion of the legendary three-Michelin chefs Michel Guèard and Alain Ducasse, he also tries to create light and intensely flavored dishes. Canino goes as far as not using butter and other animal fats in his cooking. Only Mediterranean olive oil is used and in desserts he prefers sweetening with raw cane sugar instead of the refined white powder used in most French pastries.

The luxurious hotel La Réserve Ramatuelle has recently claimed the highest recognition a hotel in France can claim – the status of a Palace. The hotel is located on a stunning property with views across a calming bay right behind the busy beaches of Pamplone just behind St Tropez. The views can be appreciated the most from the hotel’s roof bar.

The restaurant itself has a meditative vista through the large glass windows, but the terrace is more secluded offering a more peaceful dining experience. The smart modern architecture respecting its surrounding natural environment is refreshing and light.
In the same spirit of freshness and lightness is build the restaurant’s menu. Generally locally sourced from one farm, organic and low in calories while looking fabulous like those healthy looking people consuming this kind of food. Balancing a low-calorie meal though is challenging. There are some chefs achieving excellent flavors in not-fattening dishes.

For example Patrick Raingeard currently at Riviera’s Cap d’Estel restaurant captures the essence of light and delicious cooking. In the first years, the chef Eric Canino could not grasp the right balance. The only think I used to enjoy from the entire dinner was a cheese plate with fresh bread, the least healthy items on the menu. This has changed though and with the coveted Michelin star arrived also the chef’s culinary eloquence.
I remember a plate crowned with strawberries and crystalized petals on a bed of chopped tomatoes fixed in a fine jelly that I could not finish because the dish was so bad.

The Langustine Starter is now sublime. The premium Langoustines from Brittany are served both raw and cooked look like a piece of art one would hang on a wall. The langoustines are soft, but not overwhelming with richness of flavors. The cooked pieces were slightly better than the raw tartar “bejewelled” with flowers like a child’s creation on a play field.
The cheese is fresh, mostly local or French. It along with the fruit – dominated deserts is the most indulging part of the meal as well as the daily freshly baked white brioche, olive bread and other starchy sides.

Drinks: Getting an aperitif at an outdoor bar (on nice warm days there is a wonderful roof terrace open as well) next to the restaurant brings a holiday breeze.
The wine list at the restaurant is good. The patron of the hotel also owns Château Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux and a winery in Tokaji so the list features some interesting bottles from his properties. Otherwise, the list is focused on the French wines. We usually order red Burgundy. Like a fresh Volnay or a lovely Gevrey-Chambertin. These are also great wines to drink on their own. For a white the Alsatian Rieslings are interesting match to the seafood dishes.
Opening hours: seasonally from April – mid October.
Lunch: 12:30 pm to 2:30 pm
Dinner: 07:30 pm to 10:00 pm (also a buffet breakfast for hotel guests)
Contact: +33 4 94 44 94 44
Address: Chemin de la Quessine; 83350 Ramatuelle, France

La Chèvre d’Or in Eze village

La Chèvre d’Or is a stunning luxurious hotel with perhaps an even more impressive location. Hundreds of tourists browse daily through the medieval Eze village high in the hills above Monaco and Cap Ferrat. Some visitors look for art, other for architecture and there are many who take the challenge of walking on the cobbled stones in nice (ladies high-heels) shoes as they head to La Chèvre d’Or’s gourmet restaurant. No wonder the restaurant attracts so many food connoisseurs. With two stars in the 2012 Michelin guide, panoramic views over the Mediterranean and picturesque Cap Ferrat with yachts cruising around its curves lining the sea, the Chèvre d’Or is on the list of must-dine-at places of many travelers to the French Riviera.
Chef: Fabrice Vulin is not only inventive, but he also creates novelties rewarding your taste buds with complex and enjoyable flavors. In one dish one can find dozens of interpretations of one central idea – be it vegetables or a meat dish.

Ambience:Elegant, romantic and breathtaking views. If you are lucky enough to sit at one of the window tables you will delight in a view that not many restaurants in the world can match. Reserving these tables though might be a tough nut to crack. Unless, you book it weeks ahead, and in high season even months ahead, you will be happy dining at any table in the restaurant as the food is so good. The walls are decorated with unique paintings reminding you that you are in one of the most important art villages in France. Since the restaurant is inside, you do not need to worry about mosquitos, wind or cold night temperatures which you might consider if dining at the hotel’s second, more casual, restaurant – the Eden. No need to wear a robe, but clean well-presenting clothes are appropriate. As you can see, the man on the picture below, got away even with a polo shirt!

Food: Complex, unexpected and generous portions for a gastronomic restaurant. Dining at Le Chèvre d’Or does not come cheaply, on the other hand though there ar not many two Michelin-starred restaurants serving satisfying sizes of their portions. I can guarantee you will not leave the restaurant hungry, craving a pizza at a nearby stand. My American friends, who were dining with us, were astonished over their portions “at a French restaurant”. Comparing the dining experience to a Thanksgiving dinner, that was perhaps the highest compliment a restaurant can get.
Already the appetizers overwhelmed our senses with complexity and joy from each bite. The Capunatina d’Aubergineswas just incredible. I cannot remember when I had such an intricate dish, where each mouthful tasted slightly different! Well done Monsieur Vulin, since this was one of the best appetizers in my life. The vegetables, including the chopped aubergine on the base, were interspersed with various herbs, pickled seasonal mushrooms and even tiny piece of a cheese as one bite had revealed. Despite being an adventurous spirit in terms of food, I would order it again, if I went to the Chèvre d’Or.

Another generous appetizer was Le loup, l’Araignee de mer, le caviar d’Aquitaine. Sea bass with a sea crab and caviar from Aquitaine. Looking like a slice of caviar cake with juicy crab lining, it was a quirky dish, yet so interesting. I wonder how many ingredients the chef had put into this creation. From seafood, vegetable, herbs, sauces and even flowers one could find numerous facets of the white Mediterranean wish, the sea bass, which was the core ingredient. Excellent with champagne or a mineral white wine such as Chablis or Puligny-Montrachet.

The main courses were no less elaborate. La sole de Méditerranée cooked in papillote (wrapped in baking paper) with Noilly Prat (dry vermouth from South of France) and lasagna aux coquillages(mussels) had a delicate texture enhanced by a creamy sauce with the Noilly Prat vermouth. The small lasagna accompanying the fish were exquisite. With mussels marrying flowers and herbs in one’s mouth, I would exceptionally legalize polygamy in this marriage of three perfectly matching souls. The seasonal mushrooms then were just like a best man to the ceremony of flavors. Assisting with their juicy and rich flavor in the lasagna church filled with mussels, flowers and herbs. The dish was about multiple flavors in a harmonious relationship.

The meat afficionados might be seduced by a Veau de Corréze. This veal from Corréze is roasted for two people and served with a cassoulet of vegetables, seasonal mushrooms and young potatoes. A portion for a lumberjack will surely not disappoint even the biggest eater and provides enough energy for the entire day. The meat was succulent, delicate and rich in flavor. As the waiter kept bringing small pots with accompanying vegetables, mushrooms and young potatoes, the brows of the two gentlemen kept rising. They have managed it well though, sated and sighting with pleasure.

With a desert tray approaching our table, I thought I might be the only one succumb to the temptation of the sweet delicacies. The sweet kingdom in front of our eyes seduced all four of us, including the two veal eaters. One forgets quickly how much he ate after seeing something so delicious. I got three pieces – a dark chocolate based one to appease my chocolate addiction, a delicious pistachio creamy sensation with berries and silver leafs, and a tapa-size cookie topped with two fruity layers and a cap of a red strawberry. They were all great, although the pistachio mini cake was my favorite.

Cuisine: French gourmet
Visit: July 2012
Price: Very high (main courses around €100, a la carte menu €180 without drinks).
Drinks: Going local we got a bottle of La Chapelle de Sainte Roseline 2007 Cru Classe, Côtes de Provance. This intense red wine was dominated by Grenache, typical for the South of France, and refreshed with a spicy kick if Syrah. Not an ideal but a fun and enjoyable wine for all of our dishes. The wine list features most of the big players in the wine world, although it is focused on France. I highly recommend to everyone to get an aperitif outside at the bar terrace just below the restaurant. The fresh breeze and sunset with all the colors flashing on the sky guarantee a very special start of your unforgettable dining experience.
Contact: +33(0)4 92 10 66 61
Opening hours and seasonal closure: Open for lunch and dinner from March 08th until November 24th; closed from November 24th till March.
Address: LA CHÈVRE D’OR – Rue du Barri – 06360 Eze Village, France

La Bastide Saint Antoine: olive garden retreat with a perfume scent of Grasse

Jacques Chibois has brought the Royal Gray restaurant in Cannes to two Michelin stars (the first place in town that achieved this), so opening his own place was the most sensible thing to do. In 1996, after buying an 18th-century country manor La Bastide Saint-Antoine, where once stayed prominent faces of a global fame from the Kennedy family to the rock legend Rolling Stones, he opened a restaurant and a small hotel under the same name. Only a year later, La Bastide Saint-Antoine, was awarded two Michelin stars (in 1997).

His five-star place soon became a member of the Relais & Chateaux and Relais Gourmand hotel groups.
Cuisine: French gourmet using local provençal ingredients
Visit: Summer 2012 & March 2013
Price: Very high (appetizers in the above €50 level and main courses above €70; great deal lunch menu €59).
Atmosphere: From October through April, the cosy and chic inside rooms with fireplaces host all the gourmet cuisine appreciating diners. The two restaurant rooms are elegant and comfortable, but once you stop by during the summer, you will be seduced by the outside garden dining area. Its panoramic view overlooking the Provençal landscape with the Mediterranean sea in the far horizon is a refreshing retreat for the soul. Your lunch or dinner transforms into a spa treatment. Hearing just the tweeting birds, tirelessly buzzing crickets and muted voices of the fellow diners becomes a mind-detoxifying escape to the country for any city dweller. Dress fresh and elegant and you will be in harmony with the place. Ladies do not to bother with high-heels when eating in the outside area.

Food: Elegant, light and fresh. The chef’s philosophy is about playing with the gifts of the local abundant nature. One of his ideas is that “flowers have the same role as herbs and spices”. Therefore, as an homage to the town of Grasse famous for its perfumes and flowers, he includes flowers, spices and other aromatic ingredients in his culinary creations. He changes the ingredients seasonally, so if you come in summer you might still want to try it in the fall or winter with the more hearty dishes. The portions are quite small though so do not worry that you will leave feeling too heavy after this gastronomic treat. the menu is not in English, but the staff happily helps you with translation.

At the beginning of your meal, instead of a butter, you will be served a delicious home-made olive oil from the grove on the property accompanied with crunchy bread crackers.
Later, an amuse bouche of daily specialties in tiny portions will tune your palate for the chef’s aromatic cooking performance.
During the summer I have discovered Monsieur Chibois’ cuisine with the great value Lunch menu for €59. Most of the appetizers are more expensive, so this three-course meal including a dessert is a great bargain for the quality you get. This menu is available daily except Sundays and holidays. It excludes beverages so if you are driving, as I did, and stay with water and tea then it is an easy winner for you.
My starter of La Bolognaise de Homard aux Asperges, Coulis de Roquette et Salade rewarded my taste buds with tantalizing complexity of each of its ingredients. The light green pea colored cold gazpacho, in France known as veloutè, with morsels of lobster swimming inside, green asparagus spears sticking up next to roquette leafs. It was creamy, while light and complex, but simple when each the lobster, asparagus and roquette was eaten separately. Using the finest local ingredients underlined the dish.

My fish main course of Les Petites Rouelles de Lotte à la Verveine et Santoline, Petits Oignons en Grassoise d’Olives Noires, Pois Gourmands Natures won me over because of its Verveine sauce. Verveine is a leaf from a local tree, highly popular and used in tea infusions across France. Its citrusy, lemongrass-like aroma is refreshing. Combined with a side serving of cooked onion strips with chopped black olives and green pea husks the verveine sauce was enriching the meal with an exquisite summer feel.

As a fan of ripe seasonal strawberries, I had the Les Fraises et Sorbet à la Gelée de Citronnelle Crème de Mascarpone à l’Amande for dessert. The strawberries were mind-blowing, succulent and somewhere between wild and normal strawberries in terrms of taste. Slightly more sweet than regular ones and bigger in size than the wild strawberries. The sorbet was not too sugary, rather refreshing and faithful to its main ingredient-the fruit. The mascarpone was like a white bed in which the red heaven of berry creations was residing. Its creamy texture balanced the acidity from the berries and calmed down the coolness of the sorbet.
The chef has also two tasting menus of several courses. Scents and Flavors Menu for 169.00 € and Discovery Menu for 190.00 €, so if you want to pamper yourself even more and thoroughly explore the chef’s cooking.

During the winter the menu is more focused on local ingredients such as the truffles from Provance and winter vegetables.
Drinks: Peaking in the wine list was impressive. With French focus, the selection was wide and wines from all corners of France were having their ambassadors on the list. During my second visit we stayed over at the bastide (which has cosy rooms making you feel as if you were at home) so I could enjoy a glass of wine made by the monks at Lerins islands, just off Cannes. Their red wine is quite robust, therefore I would rather recommend it as an after-dinner drink or a good companion to game and meat. With Chiboas’ delicate food white and lighter red burgundies (Pinot Noir) or a more affordable Côte de Provence such as rose or fruity Merlot, work well.

A welcome option for drivers is to stay overnight at the hotel as we did so we could savour as much wine as we desired. Although, moderation in drinking as well as eating is best for not spoiling the following day in the charming provencal region and the picturesque town of Grasse. The Jacques Chibois’ light gourmet cooking will take care of the later, but the number of bottles you order is purely up to you to decide.
Opening hours: Since it is a hotel, the lunch and dinner menus are available until guests are present.
Contact: +33(0)4 93 70 94 94; info@jacques-chibois.com
Address: 48 Avenue Henri Dunant, 06130, Grasse, France

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