France Archives - Page 14 of 15

Loire wine: bike through the French valley of castles and vineyards

Swirling through the French Loire Valley on a bicycle can dilute the guilt one feels on most wine tasting trips. You are not just pouring litres of the Loire wine into your hard working liver, but you do some good to your heart and lungs as you cycle off the calories going up and down the hills on the “Route du Côte”. On your way take the pleasure from the beauty around and the natural biodiversity the Loire Valley offers. Your soul is being soothed by the steadiness of the rolling hills, lush forests and the tame villages that you pass on your way to the next winery on your itinerary.
In Loire you can either make an appointment with the desired wine estate or just pop into the wineries with the open doors. Kindly ask for “dégustation” with your squeaky French accent and a the so “unfrench” big smile. People in the wine industry are generally welcoming and will let you into their privacy, the French are proud. Some make jokes about you cycling and drinking at the same time while showing you the cellars called in the Loire “tuffeau”. These are caves cut in the cliffs from the softer chalk often containing some limestone that bestows them with golden colour – the tuffeau stone. You can see the deep terroir here.

Loire as the iconic French natural wine region

Some wineries have their vineyard just above the tuffeau and use gravity in their winemaking. To be as much as possible in harmony with nature is the philosophy of Vincent Roussely, the winemaker at his own family estate Domaine du Clos Roussely. The Domaine is located in Ange sur Cher, a village on the southern side of the Loire near to another locally important river – the Cher.

Vincent Roussely is one of these people you meet and you feel that they are one of those inspiring human beings who somehow figured out how to grasp the gist of happy and productive life while reaping satisfying rewards. His energy and enthusiasm are boundless. This manifests in the extensive work he is undertaking with the properties he bought back after his father had sold them many years ago. The family heritage was perhaps one of his motivations. His great grandfather was a winemaker and distiller, his grandfather was a winemaker and his father was a négociant (in France the person who sells wine to merchants).
His Loire wine estate was recently certified organic, he is inclining to biodynamic winemaking and uses gravity when the grapes are transported from the vineyard into the tanks cut into the tuffeau just below the vineyard.
When we were discussing his relationship with wine in his small boutique just across from the Ange’s church he said: “It is all about the vine.” He does not believe that the winemaker should interfere with nature and let the grapes to show off their qualities.
You can taste nature in his wines. The whites are quite rustic with a refreshing acidity. The rosé is made of a rare and locally indigenous grape Pineau d’Aunis (also known as Chenin Noir) differentiating it completely from other rosés you have probably ever tasted. Less perfume and more mysterious, it expresses the varietal while being food friendly. Roussely makes also sparkling Loire wine. A dry Crémant de Loire from Sauvignon Blanc and a semi-sweet rosé. My palate though appreciated the most the red blend of Cabernet Franc, Gamay and Malbec in Anthologie. The usually harsh Cabernet Franc is the most widely planted red variety in Touraine Appelation Controlée, but also in Chinon AC , Saumur-Champigny AC and even in the rosés of Anjou. The diversity of the soils in the Loire Valley allows for endless expressions, usually though the reds are rich, supple and fruity rather than harsh as in Bordeaux where Cabernet Franc is used in the blends mainly on the left bank.

I was surprised by the quality and suppleness of the sweet wines made in the Loire. The most appealing was the subtly sweet Vouvray, not heavily honeyed as many dessert wines but delicate. Chenin Blanc is a very enriching varietal for making these sweet wines. Domaine du Clos Roussely makes also sweet wine but from Sauvignon Blanc, that is lighter, low in alcohol and shy.
The Loire wine diversity should be appreciated, and it is best to “use all five senses while tasting wine” as Vincent Roussely told me. I agree with him also that we should not “deceive our taste buds by focusing on how thinks look” when inspecting how the bottle, the label or the name of the wine appears. Instead we should smell it, savour it and connect it with the occasion, so we can fully explore the five senses we were given by nature: the sight, smell, taste and even touch and listening in the moment we sip the wine. Santé!

Marketing wine: Bordeaux and Champagne rule the world

As the 2010 En Primeur frenzy escalates in Bordeaux one has to think what is all that craze all about? These are just some wine makers selling their wine before even being bottled. But, recently it became something more, a subject of speculation of some, an object of desire and prestige by others.

Undoubtedly, the Bordelais are masters in marketing their wines. The Champenoise are stepping on their heels. In both regions marketing of wine has deep roots in history. The British palette keen on their fermented grape products (wine) has played into their cards from centuries ago. Abundant trade between Bordeaux and Britain as well as popularity of bubbles ‘invented’ by a Cisterian monk Dom Perignon sparked a marketing tornado from these two legendary wine regions across the Western world. London became a cradle for Bordeaux wine and glitzy champagne bars.
Today, as the money turns East, the Bordelaise are following their sight and, many informed would agree, they have done a great job in marketing their chateaux. The booming Chinese market became their main target. Only the test of time will show whether it’s just a bubble, which will burst soon, as it happened over a decade ago in Japan. On the side of the coin though the popularity of wine may flourish in China and it thus will become the major export wine market on the world. Until the economic crisis it was the US, where most of the top wines would go.
In the marketing race in China the Rotshields seem to be the most savvy from all so far. Their Lafitte has achieved a star status there. Drunk by the Chinese government and the business elite it became the most desirable trophy of the many new-rich in Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong.
Repeal of tax on wine by the Hong Kong authorities in 2008 played into their cards as the record prices at recent auctions in Hong Kong testify. Mike Veseth on his blog The Wine Economist analysed this perhaps ‘foxy’ move of the HK authorities in detail.
The ‘butterfly effect’ as he calls it didn’t take long to materialise. Just last year (2010) a bottle of Chateau Laffite Rotshield 1869 fetched some HK$ 1.8m ($230.000). Interestingly after the bid Doug Rumsam, managing director of Bordeux index in HK, said: “I don’t think it’s a reflection of the market, but of the right buyer in the right mood.”
His prophecy didn’t work since later last year the stellar prices of top chateaux wines at a number of auctions on Hong Kong have raised the brows of many in the West. In a recent interview Ian Harris, CEO of Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) told me: ‘Is a wine for £10 better than a £3.000/bottle? Yes. But, is it 300 times better? Not.” And the same applies to enjoyment you get from it. Therefore, for the true wine connoisseurs, not speculators, this price turmoil lead by Chinese buyers is a very sad news leaving them pondering whether they will ever again enjoy a bottle of their favourite claret.

Right Bank Bordeaux 1998 with Jasper Morris, MW

A flight through 1998 Bordeaux with a Master of Wine Jasper Morris at Berry Bros.& Rudd in London revealed the strengths of this vintage in the Right Bank of the most watched wine region on the world today.
The fact that 1998 was a great year for the Right Bank but not as successful in the Médoc and other districts left from the Gironde estuary highlights the necessity in sharpening our focus on a specific area each year. Jasper Morris, MW said: “The Left and Right banks in the Bordeaux region should be considered separately.” The weather conditions can vary quite significantly in each area leading to a different quality of wine depending on the vineyard’s location. The two recent vintages of 1998 and 1996 are the best examples of this happening in one region.
As I mentioned already the 1998 was perfect for Saint-Emilion and Pomerol on the Right Bank, but not outstanding on the other side of Gironde. The opposite happened in 1996 when Médoc produced remarkable wines, whereas across the river they were in general a more average vintage.
On these two examples I have learned that it can be a huge mistake to over-generalise especially in such a big region as Bordeaux in South West France.
Still, we all have preferences in terms of châteaux style. During the dinner at Berrys there was a heated discussion between the guests when our host Jasper Morris, MW raised the question – “So, which one do you prefer?”

We tasted seven red Clarets and one outstanding sweet wine with a desert. The sweet queen was from Sauternes and not from the Right bank. We were treated like a royal family as we savoured a glass of golden-hued Château d’Yquem from a fantastic vintage, the 2001.
First came two St Emilions in ‘B’ classification:
Château Beau-Séjour Bécot, 1er Grand Cru Classé ‘B’
Château Angélus, 1er Grand Cru Cru Classé ‘B’
We were puzzled over the technicality of the French appellation system. Not only it differs tremendously from region to region but, often, it confuses the consumers by using the same name such as the Grand Cru, in this case meaning something different in the Bordeaux St. Emilion and in Burgundy. You always have to consider the other wines in the appellation and the ways they are being identified in terms of their classification.
The Château Beau-Séjour Bécot was a fresher wine bursting with youthful fruits whereas the Angélus was more deep, intense, warm and settled. Approximately half of the present diners preferred the former for its refreshing properties. I was probably in the winter mood as I adhered to the party enjoying the calming and warming sensation conveyed by the Angélus.
The difference between the release prices of the Château Angélus in 1998 and in 2009 was stunning. The 1998 came for €53 in the time of its release while the venerated 2009 sold for €210! The rising release prices of Bordeaux and their desirability have two consequences: One as Jasper Morris pointed out is that the traditional consumers of Bordeaux in Europe are looking into other wine regions where the prices have not risen so much yet. For that reason Bordeaux had to redefine itself as the producers have “to find new market every year”. Another one is that “there is no reward for a good behaviour in Bordeaux” as the proprietors try to come with the highest possible prices the market can still accept.
With our second course came two class ‘A’ St Emilions:
Château Ausone, 1er Grand Cru Cru Classé ‘A’
Château Cheval Blanc, 1er Grand Cru Cru Classé ‘A’
This time the vote was stronger on the Cheval Blanc side. I remember the first time I tasted this renowned wine, cannot recall the vintage but I would guess it was 1989 (as my scribbles on a piece of a random paper confirm, perhaps it was the first time I tasted it), and my surprise that this legendary wine can find such a wide fan’s base. I smelled it – my verdict was – a cabbage, yes it smells like a cabbage; then tasted it and swallowed with a clown-like facial expression – too tannic, where is the fruit? That was my first date with Cheval Blanc. Perhaps my palate has developed since then or I was lucky to taste better vintages, but now I cannot take my lips out of a glass filled with this magnificently complex wine.
The deliciously tender saddle of lamb with a spicy herb & mustard crust was the next course on our plates and with it the final three red chariots from Pomerol arrived. It was a battle indeed. The Pomerols tasted so differently. The tannins weren’t as green as in many of the St. Emillions at this stage.

Château Certan de May
Vieux Château Certan
Château Lafleur
Perhaps the most famous is the Château Lafleur ( and the most expensive), nevertheless, for the present drinkers-turned-judges it wasn’t the winner of the fight. At least not for now, about 13 years after these wines were born. It was the complexity of the Vieux Château Certan, which enchanted the majority.
After all these intense reds we needed to appease our palates with something soothing, dense and sweet. A bottle of Château d’Yquem 2001 couldn’t please more. 100 points from Robert Parker might persuade many of the rare possition of this wine. Interestingly, it was a glamorous match with a warm pistachio cake with yoghurt cream & blood orange ice cream.
If you are not salivating yet and imagining those heavenly sins in the form of a marriage of the divinely prepared meals with the ‘Right’ wines, then a glass of an old cognac might do the job. That was a strong dot to an evening full of joy from a wine induced conversation and one that won’t be forgotten easily, at least for me.
Hopefully, I will have the privilege to attend one of the numerous dinners and tastings at Berrys in the future. The line is long though, as for the most popular themes you need to book at least three months in advance. That is my advice to you as well as don’t expect an old and stuffy wine dinner, but instead, an evening of a vigorous discourse, jokes and openness.
Oh, and, if you by any chance got a hold of a spare ticket or your company fell ill in the last minute, you can always let me know in the future. I’ll fly to London from wherever I’ll find myself at that moment.

Art in Napa Valley

Art in Napa Valley thrives. In their excellent book The Art & Science of Wine James Halliday & Hugh Johnson, renowned Masters of Wine, propagate winemaking as an art form. Some wineries go even further. Art exhibitions at wineries and putting artworks on their label became increasingly popular. The most famous wine clan in France commissioning famous artists were the Rotschields. Crafting their Moutons into pure art masterpieces were Picasso, Bacon, even Prince Charles.

Napa Valley in California is catching up with this Bordeaux flamboyance. As penchant for art penetrates the entire valley, art exhibitions at wineries, wine shops as well as multiple galleries comfort pleasure-seeking visitors. The loveliest art town in the Napa area is Saint Helena. Here, in the northern part of the Valley, art exhibitions at spacious galleries with pieces made mainly by local artists rub shoulders with small independent boutique art. One of the best is AERENA Galleries in Saint Helena that sells also paintings by Chase Langford, who was inspired by geography. His soil-centric canvases resonate with the terroir concept in winemaking.

At the Rombauer winery the imagination does not have boundaries. Painted cows or sculptures made of wine bottles inside their garden surround the tasting room. Dunn has also recently introduced their contemporary art collection to its rich wine club members.

For some vintage cars are the highest form of art. Those of you won’t come short in Napa. Farniente, Rubicon Estate, Palmaz Vineyards and many other winery owners proudly show off their private collection of old cars. Who would expect anything like that in a wine country? In America everything seems possible.

The opulent Domaine Chandon, owned by the luxurious French conglomerate LVHM, is the home of a vast garden with scattered, humble mushroom sculptures. Simply cute. Another French luxury behemoth, Francois Pinault recently purchased the iconic Eiselle vineyard. Inside the historic house expect extraordinary art pieces, just do not take your camera out, since photography of the interior is not allowed. A great reason to visit in person, if you can.

Hotels follow the art trend too. Auberge du Soleil, the signature luxurious hotel of Napa Valley, has installed multiple sculptures in its gardens, while the rooms are decorated with paintings acquired mainly from local galleries. The flying pig [photo above] in the lobby area is amusing.
Superb restaurants such as The Charter Oak and Farmstead (located conveniently across from each other) draw visitors in not just for wine, art, but also great locally sourced food. Enjoy Saint Helena and all the Napa art!

Bordeaux: Two neighbours – Château Palmer and Château Margaux

Château Palmer, the king of gold elegance is nesting just next to the majestic symbol of Margaux – the Château Margaux, bearing the same name as the AOC known for its feminine wines.
Château Palmer Margaux, Bordeaux
Both neighbours touch the shores of the Gironde estuary so significant for the terroir of these Châteaux. The gravely soil is another aspect common to many vineyards located in the feminine Margaux appellation. Perhaps the last thing they have in common and what at the same time distinguishes them is their vibrant (turbulent) history.
The Château Palmer was founded at the beginning of the eighteen century by the Gasq family, but soon was purchased by the british Major General Palmer, who not only gave the Château its name but also contributed to the development of the vines and vineyard all in a controversial fashion. Nowadays, the proprietors of the Château still try to stand out as they have even commissioned creation of their own song for the 2009 vintage. They also have a very informative conical towers and slate roofs.
Yet, those who deserve the most praise are the Pereire brothers who bought the Palmer’s estate in the time of crisis in 1853. Their Portuguese – Jewish origin could have sparked the business success and also competitiveness with the powerful Rothshild wine magnates contributing to an accelerating quality of the wines produced at the Château Palmer. Pereire brothers sponsored building of the magnificent château distinguishing it vividly from the other Margaux wine estates. The Palmer’s conical towers and slate roofs contrast with the romantic Château Margaux building.
Another crisis struck Palmer and this time the whole world. The 1930s economic crisis brought Château Palmer into the hands of four Bordeaux families, two of whom reign the estate until today. These are the Sichel and Malher-Besse families.
The history might be one facet peculiar to every single château but, as it is typical for Bordeaux wines, each of them produces unique wines of distinguished smell, colour and bouquet even though their grapes, not just literally, touch each others roots.
Moreover, their fan club of wine connoisseurs varies. Those relishing the absolute balance, elegance and finesse appreciate Château Palmer’s red clarets. One of them is surely Simon Berry of the oldest wine merchant in London Berry Bros&Rudd. He even wrote a foreword to the Château Palmer’s own book published in 2008 (You get it free of charge on your visit of the chateau). There he shares his passion for Palmer, he elevates his first taste of the famed 1961 vintage he drunk with Peter Sichel, one of the Palmer’s owners as he writes:

‘..it seemed to me to be the most perfect bottle of claret I had ever tasted. Not the most powerful, not the most flavoursome, not the oldest, and certainly not the flashiest or the most expensive, but just what every claret should aspire to be at a perfect stage in its maturity…’ (he drunk it in 1997- 36 years after the grapes were picked and transformed into wine).

Affordable cost of a bottle of Palmer (most vintages, the 61 goes to a higher sphere) is another distinction when compared to the Château Margaux whose wines are sold for double prices for some vintages.

Palmer makes today only red wine from the three typical Bordeaux grape varieties – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and hint of Petit Verdot (the shy Cabernet Franc is more popular on the right bank in Saint Emillion, Pomerol, …). What is interesting, in the past it made also a white wine of an unknown grape variety. A bottle of a white 1925 still hides in the cellar of the Sichel family and perhaps in some rare collections elsewhere on the world but nobody knows where exactly.
The discovery of this endemic bottle confirms the importance of white wines far into the history of Bordeaux winemaking.

Some of the châteaux in the Médoc area still produce smaller quantities of white wine. For me they are sometimes even more interesting than some reds. I have tasted plenty of white Bordeaux and was amazed how highly competitive they are even with the top white Burgundies. I dare to say that, so far the throne belongs to the white wine Pavilon produced by the Château Margaux. The bad news is that the white Bordeaux are difficult to find abroad so for most of them you will need to travel to the Bordeaux itself in order to purchase at least a case.
Another practice, though more popular nowadays, is to make a second red wine. Both the Palmer and Margaux follow the suit.
Palmer’s youthful equivalent is Alter Ego setting it apart from the ‘Grand wine’ with its reverse coloured label. Instead of deep dark blue background with golden imprint the Aler Ego’s label has golden background with a dark blue imprint.

However, the proprietors like to emphasise that Alter Ego isn’t a second wine as it is just a different, fruitier and ready wine enjoyable in its youth. From this stems its great value as it can be drunk in two or more years and you do not need to wait for the minimum recommended 10 years ageing as with the ‘big clarets’.
Château Margaux has also a second wine. It is called The Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux.
The peculiarities of each Château are tangible in their divergent Grand Cru classification from 1855. Château Margaux got into the first top five 1er cru rank whereas Château Palmer stands in the third family of Grand Crus. In the 1850s Palmer was in its challenging period therefore it is a distinguished achievement that it got to the Top Cru status at that time.
Moreover, who can trust an over 150 years-old classification nowadays? Traditions are worth to respect, but our taste should decide. Therefore, I encourage everyone to try as many various Bordeaux as you can and compare them yourselves. Just a small example. Château Petrus and Cheval Blanc from the right bank aren’t in the 1855 classification at all and whose wines are today priced as one of the highest?

Château Lynch Bages

Château Lynch Bages proprietor goes an extra mile to enhance the pleasure from his wines.

Lynch Bages winery belongs to the Médoc region in Bordeaux and literally ‘sticks’ to the renowned town Pauillac situated on the left bank of the Gironde estuary.
To be more precise the estate together with a couple of houses and a newly renovated square are actually a village in themselves.So it couldn’t bear a more fitting name than ‘Bages’.
The man behind the fabulous reconstruction of Bages and perhaps a ‘new father’ of this hamlet is Jean-Michel Cazes, the owner of the Château Lynch Bages.
His family owned the prominent Château in Pauillac since 1933 when Jean-Charles Cazes, the grandfather of Jean-Michel, took over the Château Lynch Bages in the height of the 1930s economic crisis. With his assets amassed during a successful career at the AXA insurance group he belonged to a rather prosperous minority in the Pauillac area. The situation was so dire that 15 of the total 18 classified growths in Pauillac changed ownership during the crisis. As is typical for harsh times, they bring loses but also opportunities. Monsieur Cazes was unquestionably one of these who saw new horizons clearly.
The enterprising, innovative and bold temper still circulates in the family blood. Jean-Michel Cazes is a renaissance man who changed Bages into a picturesque village dedicated to wine. Though, he still respects the old, so he left part of the vat room untouched for visitors who can peak at how wine was made over 50 years ago.

Today, you can relish the tastiest Canelé (a typical Bordeaux pastry infused with rum and vanilla – it is a sinful delicious sweet treat) I have tasted in the whole Bordeaux from an excellent bakery (boulangerie) Le Baba d’Andréa. Or savour a glass of excellent Bordeaux with local fare at Café Lavinal where you might find yourself sitting right next to one of the mighty proprietors of the biggest châteaux in Pauillac.
Finally, if you want to learn more about wine Bages is an ideal place to be. You have two options:
The first and the most effective and enjoyable is to take one of the wine courses in the school of the Château Lynch Bages. Their teachers are excellent. I have learned so much there about the basics of wine tasting, the Bordeaux appellations and I also have explored the art of blending so crucial and typical for wines in Bordeaux. There is nothing better than to take wine classes in the heart of its region. Our teacher Charles Thuillier spoke flawless English, was tremendously friendly and not deterred by any of our weird questions.
The second, less intensive but more time flexible alternative is to buy one of the quintessential books from the top wine writers such as Hugh Johnson, Jancis Robinson or Robert Parker at the Bazaar, an iconic shop for wine enthusiasts. You will find here everything from wines, books, glasses to ‘smell trainers’ perfect for learning the distinguished smells you can find in wines (rather expensive though – for the complete set prepare to ease your pocket of 200 Euro).
Contacts:
www.villagedebages.com
Café Lavinal : tel. +33 (0)5 57 75 00 09, e-mail: cafe.lavinal@bordeauxsaveurs.com
L’Ecole du Bordeaux wine school: +33 (0)5 56 90 91 92,
e-mail: contact@ecoledubordeaux.com
Château Lynch Bages for tours and tastings: +33 (0)5 56 73 19 31

Cheval Blanc 2009 vintage

On my recent visit to Bordeaux I visited the famous Chateau Cheval Blanc in Saint Emilion and tasted the miraculous 2009 vintage just before it will be bottled in two weeks.
The samples we had the pleasure to taste were the same which were tasted en primeur by the wine experts and critics.
The first verdicts on the Bordeaux 2009 vintage overall were mixed but mostly extremely enthusiastic. As some of the critics claimed that it was the best vintage they have ever tasted from Bordeaux!
I dare to say that the Cheval Blanc is already now in the top ranks with its 2009 release.
The wine was so pleasant with good acidity and tannins both indicating high aging potential of the wine.
The Cheval Blanc 1er Grand Cru Classé ‘A’ 2009 had enormous complexity where black fruits conduct a symphony with spices, liquorice and finally refresh your senses with a slight menthol breeze . The smooth tannins and power are in the right balance so the elegance of a glass of Cheval Blanc is preserved.
And how comes that the 2009 vintage reached an almost perfectness? The main reason were the ideal weather conditions throughout last year. The most important role played the dry weather in July when ‘water stress slowed down growth of the shoots and limited the size of the grapes’ – two essential conditions for a great vintage!

The second wine of the Cheval Blanc Le Petit Cheval was impressive as well. Although it is more suitable for those relishing in younger, ready and good valued wines.
Impatient drinkers will be pleased as you don’t need to wait for so long as in the case of most Grand Crus requiring at least ten years ageing in the cellar. Red fruits and spices create a structured wine with lots to offer. The tannins are even softer than in the first wine (1er Cru Grand Classé ‘A’) therefore more pleasant when young but with lower ageing potential.

The white horse is a powerful symbol of the Chateau Cheval Blanc refers to its strong position in Bordeaux, especially in the Saint Emilion area where with its 37 hectares it is the biggest wine estate in the area. Just for comparison most of the wineries posses around 10 hectares.
The 2009 vintage is highly promising and it is worth considering as an investment with high return. Even though it is already now quite highly priced because of the high demand.
These days the chateau is undergoing a massive reconstruction and if it is going to resemble only a bit the luxurious Chateau Cheval Blanc in the French Alpes it is going to be perhaps the most fascinating architectonic state of the art treasure of the entire Bordeaux region! The owners the prestigious group L.V.M.H. definitely have the resources to make the chateau enviable for most of the wine producers in France.

Bordeaux Appellations

It may seem complex, but in fact the appellation system is much easier to apply in Bordeaux than in Burgundy.
The Bordeaux appellation system ( and of all France) is based on obeying fixed rules established by the Bordeaux Institut National d’Appellations d’Origine – INAO.

The core of the system is rooted in the location of the vineyard and whether it complies with the INAO standards set for this specific area.

The regulations aren’t just a bunch of concepts manufactured by an obsolete organisation. On the contrary INAO employs a wide array of wine experts, oenologists, geologists and analysts carefully discussing the potentials and handicaps of designated terroirs. On the basis of their inspection together with laboratory test results they work out the rules for each appellation.
A winemaker then has to consider for example which grape variety he can grow on his vineyard, a percentage of each of them and other aspects of the terroir.

I mentioned the word TERROIR and it is worth an explanation as it is one of the most used but also the most controversial jargons used by wine makers in France.

The disputable ‘winelese’ term doesn’t have any simple definition. L’Ecole Du Bordeaux defines terroir as:

1) soil – often only this aspect is mistaken as an oversimplified definition of the terroir

4) exposure – hill, flat, …

3) climate – micro-climate specific for a vineyard or specific area, influence of the proximity of the ocean, sun exposure, rainfall, wind, intensity of sunshine, …

4) human influence – biodynamic practices, wine maker’s treatment of the soil and vines,…

There are four degrees of appellations based on the extend of adherence to the determined rules from the INAO:

AOC = Appellation d’Origine Controlé – wine whose quality is controlled by the specific local rules set by the INAO

VDQS = Vin Délimité Qualité Supérieur – wine of which quality doesn’t adhere to all INAO rules but it is still typical for the country and is distinguishable characteristics

VIN DE PAYS= wine typical for the country

VIN DE TABLE = table wine suitable for basic consumption and not typical of the place
Considering the terroir carefully INAO established 57 AOC’s in Bordeaux. For example: Pauliac, Margaux, Saint Emillion, Pomerol, Médoc, Haut Médoc, …

There are five levels of AOC’s:

A Communal village – Paulliac, Margaux, Saint Estephe, Saint Julien, Listrac – Médoc, …

B Haut Médoc – the proximate area around the village AOC

C Médoc – the whole area of Médoc on the left bank of the river

D Bordeaux Superieur – wine from Bordeaux near to a distinguishable AOC area

E Bordeaux – just a wine made somewhere in the region of Bordeaux not adhering to any of the AOC rules

Bordeaux: Château Smith Haut Lafitte

Nesting in Graves between the villages of Martillac and a bit bigger Léognan you will find Châteav Smith Havt Lafitte.

It was bought by the end of the eighties by a former French ski champions Monsieur Daniel and Madame Florence Cathiard who transformed the estate tramendously.
Today, the old marries here with the state of the art technology and wine making procedure.
The love for art of Madame Cathiard is imprinted on the surrounding vineyards. You can admire a statue of a rabbit which enchanted her tasteful eyes on an exhibition in London so she decided to put it right in the middle of the vineyard.

The history of the estate reaches as far back as the 14th century. It went from one owner to the other, but it seems that it flourished the most in the hands of its present proprietors.
Their daughter even launched her own successful wine therapy centre and cosmetic line called Caudalíe known from Paris to New York. You can indulge your senses and body in their original wine based therapies in the adjoining spa which together with the five star hotel is called Les Sources de Caudalie.

Back to wine. The Château has 55 parcels, each the size of 1 hectar. From this 11 ha is white wine and the rest are red grapes of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (the so called Bordeux blend).
Châteav Smith Havt Lafitte can proudly claim that it possesses one of the biggest (if not the biggest) underground wine cellars in the whole Bordeaux area. The 2009 highly promising vintage was just resting in the oak barrels during our visit.
We tasted two wines. One red and one white. Unusually, on the advice of the vineyards own oenologist, we drunk the red first.
The 2006 vintage resembled dark cherries and berries with slight tannins on the palette. Even though it was still quite young (7-10 years is often recommended for Bordeaux red wines) it was very drinkable and complex wine.
The white wine was a miracle. The Châteav Smith Havt Lafitte 2007 is a favourite of many ‘degustateurs’ as our friendly guide disclosed and I can confirm I am among their ranks. The fatty round body with hints of apricots, pineapple and even grapefruit with a very long aftertaste makes from it a drink of the gods. No wonder that renowned wine critic Robert Parker gave it staggering 94-96 ranking (out of 100). Jancis Robinson described it as “Sweet, rich, heady nose. Big and broad and heavy and almost sweet. Good citrus(lime) acidity too. Interesting and not just run of the mill…Massive richness – ambitious!”. She gave it 17 points (out of 20).
However, reviews are reviews and we all have distinguished and unique taste buds so you should make up your own mind by tasting it. I highly recommend it as it sparked my interest in white Bordeaux.

Vivin: a secret gem of Parisian wine shops

Set a way far from the herds of tourists relentlessly taking pictures of each corner of Paris Vivin is the right place to unwind after a five-hour museum marathon.
Following the advice of a friend ( naturally a wine enthusiast like me ) I took a break from my annual January sales hunting and headed to the suburbs of Paris to visit Vivin. This wine shop is known for its cellar full of rare mostly French wines for which you would have to pay a fortune in a restaurant if they had them on their wine list.

Expecting a shop/bar type of place I thought the address wrong while entering this cosy wine shop. I forgot to mention, that my friend was singing odes on the incredible food he cherished there. Instead, lots, lots and lots of bottles, two huge Spanish hams and a very tall man looking at us as if we just landed from Mars. No wonder as the first thing we asked for was if we could have some lunch.

French gurmet lifestyle

Following laughs from the only table set in the middle of the shop with comments like “so tourists came for lunch to a wine shop,…where are you from?”, we explained we would like to buy some interesting wine and drink it with a bite to eat, and at that point the ice broke down and we were warmly adjoined to the table. Suddenly a crunchy bread, salad and extraordinary plate of the best Spanish ham, marinated peppers, anchovies with pistachios, and even a mouth watering cheese board landed on our table.

Exchange trade is still alive

We got a bottle of white Volnay 2005 premier cru, Nicolas Rossignol from Burgundy and shared it with the group next to us for which we got a taste of their red wine ( Domaine la Tour Vieille, Collioure, 2007) from the South-West of France. Both of them of a unique taste. 2005 was an excellent year for white Burgundy. Chardonnay, the typical grape variety for Burgundy, expressed its full potential in this year as it was superbly delicate. Syrah in the red Collioure is dominant. The very first sip unveils typical spicy tones a la Syrah, nevertheless this wine is also fresh and juicy with a nice body as it is blended with Grenache, also found in Spanish Rioja and Priorat, known for its cherry and peppery flavour. As we indulged in our n-th glass, it turned out that one of the French gentlemen was a wine expert hosting various tastings all over Paris. Now, I was sure, that we are at the right place.
To finish up our outstanding lunch, the wine expert ordered a bottle of Champagne, but not a usual one which you can see at every Nicolas or Oddbins. Champagne Duret-Marchant Brut was surprisingly fruity and naturally slightly sweet. As it is a brut, a dry champagne into which only a pinch of sugar is being added, you could drink and drink and never stop. Yes, I mean that, I was lucky enough to have there my partner to help me to find my way back to the hotel.
A real French style lunch. Over two hours and instead of a glass you end up with two bottles. How they do it? God knows, though there is something on the French way of life as they are one of the longest living nations and rarely suffer from heart diseases. So, instead of a spa head to a cellar, slow down the pace of your life ( enjoy long lunches ), and you will live longer! I am just wondering how many days I added to my life while staying in Paris for four days. Scientists! This is worth of an experiment.

The cellar

After finishing the first bottle I was trying to find my way to the ladies room and there it is! Hidden downstairs at the end of the lovely cellar. Walking on the stones on the floor I felt as if I were in a little village in Burgundy or Bordeaux and not in the 10 million metropolis. You must see it.

Vivin
Tel: 0146241919
114 Avenue Achille Peretti
92200 Neuilly-Sur-Seine

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