United States Archives - Page 8 of 10

Per Se: dine for less at one of the best restaurants in New York

Thomas Keller is still one of the most cherished chefs in North America. His French Laundry in Napa Valley remarkably enlivened the gastronomic scene in the US. Along with the French Laundry his French bistro Bouchon mushroomed and he also opened Ad Hoc in Yountville, the gastronomic heart of Napa Valley. In 2004 he opened the most awarded from all of these French Laundry subordinates – Per Se in New York. The three Michelin restaurant was for years helmed by Keller himself, but since 2010 Eli Kaimeh, Per Se’s chef for years, took the helm leading the restaurant’s daily feat for perfection woefully. Per Se steadily loiters at the summit of the restaurant Everest in New York unwilling to climb down.

The entrance to Per Se is located in the New York’s Time Warner Centre. The journey up to the fourth floor via the shopping mall escalators hits you with the pompous massive wooden doors with golden handles marks a serious dining establishment. Enter the unpretentious mecca of culinary innovation and gustatory pleasure. It does not bite you, but you will devour plenty of tasty stuff inside. The Salon is the bar seating area offering some of the restaurant tasting menu dishes á la carte. It feels darker and more intimate than the 16 table heart of the restaurant. The windows open to the Western corner of the Central Park. At the Salon no reservations policy like at Le Bernardin and Daniel allows for a casual show up and gourmandise. Considering that the restaurant is usually fully booked at least a month ahead, this a savvy way in.

The food is balanced, impeccably sourced and reasonably sized (considering all that extra stuff you are treated by, but you did not order, that is wise). Starting with the famous amuse bouche of sublime Tuna mini cone whether you eat at the bar or the restaurant, the score is one-one. The thin cone envelops a foamy tuna mouse melting in your month like a whipped sea wave swooshing along assembled flavours from its journey from the water to the chef’s hands. A meditative start to a superb meal.
There is usually at least one vegetarian (or vegetable-based) dish. Like a haute couture salad, the Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm were wonderfully assembled. A celery branch, an exotic Cara Cara orange, preserved green tomatoes and horseradish crème fraîche. Refreshing, zesty and savoury sphere for a light appetiser.
A foie Gras is a mainstay at gastronomic restaurants using French cooking techniques and Per Se is not an exception. The controversially produced goose liver is banned in some countries and states including the sunny California (home to the French Laundry), but not in the open-minded New York. Daily changing variations of culinary adventures with it can feature Slow Poached Élevages Périgord Moulard Duck Foie Gras served with poached rhubarb, refreshing young fennel, crunchy and elegant Spanish Marcona almonds, rich Greek yogurt sprinkled with watercress. This was the rare occasion for me to taste it since I do not support this cruel elevage, yet once every couple of years I succumb to ordering it since the smooth liver is delicious.
You can add a scoop of the luxurious caviar. Served with blinins and the Per Se balancing touch or spooned over other dishes, this extra hedonism will cost you well over $100.
The main dishes inspired by Italian and French cuisines use mainly local but also some European ingredients. The Mediterranean Turbot served with soft Celery Root “Porridge”, Chestnut Confit, Brown Chicken Jus and Black Winter Truffles was tender in a delicate blend with rich wintery ingredients.
Butter Poached Lobster from Nova Scotia served with moon-shaped toasted bread pudding, caramelised cipollini onions, crunchy Piedmont hazelnuts, pumpkin “Parisienne” and a fig-chocolate emulsion, was an international conference of resources and ideas. As if the American lobster convened peacefully with the Turkish-British alliance on how to deal with the Italian and French gastronomic dominance in our restaurants. The fig-chocolate emulsion solved the issue by balancing the global powers on the plate as it changed the overall character of the dish so none of the national interests dominated at least on this plate.
The “Carnaroli Risotto Biologioco” is an organic risotto shaved over generously and not cheaply with the black winter truffle.

Dessert Tasting Menu at the Salon are five mini-desserts, but you can order à la carte. The Cheese Course is served with tasty amenities, but I went for the chef’s speciality Jaffa Cake. A vanilla Génoise, blood orange “Pâte de Fruits“, the locally made Mast Brothers chocolate ganache and a jasmine ice cream, was superb in its complexity.
An iPad wine list enables expanding or changing the wine selection with a slip of a finger so the sommelier has a complete and immediate control over it. Well-organised and practical, but if you do not know wine and the wine-producing regions well then your first moment of excitement may fizz out in a few seconds. If you are lost in the wonder ‘wineland’, ask the sommelier for recommendations fitting your budget. There are wines under $100 per bottle so realistic even for the occasional splurge.
Very expensive: Two daily changing nine-course Chef’s or Vegetable Tasting menus, each $295; five-course lunch menu $185. The Salon menu à la carte starts at $30 per plate so you can dine at Per Se just under $100 per head without wine. Salon is the bar area just after entering Per Se.
Mon-Thurs: 5:30–10:00 pm; Fri, Sat & Sun:11:30 am – 1:30 pm, 5:30–10:00 pm
Time Warner Center, 4th fl., 10 Columbus Circle, New York
+1 212 823 9335

Bonnie's: eating well and quick on the slopes above Aspen

The atmosphere at Bonnie’s on the Aspen Mountain is ultra ski casual, family friendly and fast-paced. People come and go. This a canteen for the serious skiers as you do not need to “waste” too much time with waiting, just refuel on the ready, deliciously naughty food.

It is all buffet-style, so grab your tray and stride from the desserts (strange the line starts with sweets temptations, perhaps because of the sugar’s quick energy delivering potential for the skiers), through a salad bar, warm dishes and grill, up to drinks and snacks just before the tills. Then get some ketchup, mayonnaise, mustard or pickles on the counter behind and run to one of the available tables. Unless you are a big group or come during the earlier or after-lunch hours, then you will probably share a table with others. Nobody minds, the food is great and satisfying. On a sunny day you can sit outside at the large terrace and enjoy the rays shining spot on your face. After the relaxing sun tanning session and the recuperative meal, to be polite, clear your tray to the designated area inside Bonnie’s.

Although the tray may look a bit Mc Donaldish, this is all freshly made high-quality generous mountain food. The highlights are the white bean chili soup with tortilla chips, the large slices of the apple strudel, the burgers, hot dogs and choose-what-you-want salad bar. The hearty white bean chili soup is the perfect warmer on the very cold days, wonderfully rich and immediately satisfies. I love the option of adding the crunchy tortilla crisps on the top. Choose wisely from the salads since the Caesar was a bit disappointing, rather boring and dry. Some of the other grain and lentils-based salads tasted more fresh and delicious.

In the mood for a burger? Bonnie’s is the right place to have one. If you skied hard, you deserve it. The burgers including the Cheeseburger are being prepared in plain sight on a grill at Bonnie’s. The bystander entourage of salivating customers either waiting for one or pondering whether it is worth the cholesterol-rising sin, is the proof that its wonderful smell allures many of them like flies on a piece of meat. As my eyes pierced the melting cheddar over the juicy meat on a bed of tender and fresh bun soon it turned out to be worth of the sin, at least this time. Neither were the sublime sweet potato fries served with the burger the angels guarding our heart, yet they were so good that I dove into the second portion of them as if I had nothing before. My husband was so busy with his burger that he did not mind me finishing up his fries. Crisp, full of flavour and not oily – simply perfect! Later on the slopes, the meal did not make our turns more swift, but somehow we went down faster, perhaps assisted by gravity?
If you feel like anything sweet after this heavenly hell of great food then go for it. Unless you are a tow-track, I doubt you would still have any space left in your belly for the desserts if you ate all that we had. The Apple strudel is huge, but I got it confirmed by the locals frequenting this popular lunch spot that it is very good, so on your meat-less day have one for lunch. Also if you are one of those first lift to last lift (that I call maniac) skiers and want to hit the slopes quickly, then just get one of the energy-boosting snacks and off you go. There are energy food bars, originally flavoured potato chips and the American staples such as the ultra processed M&M’s arranged conveniently just before the cashier desks, so help yourself, you naughty skipper of the proper meal.

Drinks: You can have wine (the selection is good and prices favourable), but if you are not a ski pro then it is safer to have a cup of tea. I admit, I have a glass (or two – never say never) sometimes, but for some reason it feels more appropriate in Europe (better wine?). The selection of tea from Mighty leaf at Bonnie’s is great. Mighty leaf tea became very popular at the American restaurants and cafés. For the cold mountains I went for the Bombai Chai. The black tea with spices empowered me with a dose of caffeine and warmed up my cold limbs. Interestingly, it is an Indian blend and it is not often as cold in India as in Aspen during the winter, but it works in both locations. When warm it makes you feel the heat less because of its inner illusion of warmth and when cold it tricks our receptors into feeling warmer.
Cuisine: Mountain cafeteria-style buffet. American, Italian and French oriented.
Visits: February 2012-2016
Open during the winter season only for a quick lunch on the slopes.
601 E Dean St, Aspen, CO 81611, USA.
+1 970 544 6252

Caribou Club: vip private club dining in Aspen

It is advised to wear something “Aspen casual” at the Caribou Club, meaning rather expensive or at least a stylish mountain outfit, but no shorts, flip-flops and even – hats! Being French chic is a taboo at Caribou. Although Aspen is more relaxed than St Moritz, another strict policy at the Caribou Club is that everyone MUST check their coat in before entering the club’s flamboyant premisses. No fur abundance inside, but still Caribou remains the most exclusive address in Aspen. If you are into rubbing shoulders with the local influencers and Hollywood celebrities, give in to its brash NO NO policies.

The main dining room is elevated by voluptuous horn curves forming chandeliers hanging down from a sky-blue painted ceiling, luxe Frette table cloths and red lip sexy walls. For members or the well connected, who are allowed in, the Club lounge and the Great room that turns into a dance floor as the evening progresses are both set for lounging, playing poker or hopping to the DJ’s rhythms.
Food-wise, the starters are for America reasonably small, yet the mains may put you back to cyclops’ dining table so be ready for the feast. Worldly ingredients blend with the local hearty style. The caviar menu of either the Sturgeon, Oscietra or the Golden Oscietra can be relished anywhere within the club. The Caesar Salad (Table Side for Two) is prepared at your table as in a classy restaurant.
I was in a sampling mood, so ordered the Five Tastes from the Sea of an assorted raw seafood. Changing daily depending on availability, ordering it seven-times a week should never get boring. In my “catch” there was a refreshing shot of oysters with fish and seafood sashimi originally dressed. The Florida crab claw comes with strangely sweet mayonnaise, which got me wondering if a pinch o sugar did not accidentally dropped in. A glass of champagne (or a bottle?) is perfect with either the caviar or the raw seafood.

From the meaty mains, the local Blackened Bison Tomahawk or the Antelope steak from afar may sound a bit too exotic, but I had to try the later when dining at Caribou Club on another occassion. The meat was gamey rich, lean, juicy and reminded me of venison. A delicious once in a while treat.
The Prime Ribeye of Angus Beef that was dry aged for 42 days, fire grilled, crowned by giant beer battered onion rings, and accompanied by house-made creamy horseradish cream as the standard American indulgence. My husband was very disappointed by the too fatty meat as he remembered getting a great steak there before. These onions were like a soccer ball! Not much flavour, just big eyes and no substance, just greasy batter. At the Piñons restaurant also in town these giant fried onion rings were crisp and more completely indulgent.
The pasta dishes at the Caribou Club like the Barbecued King Crab & Sweet Potato Tortelloni wouldn’t probably appear on the traditional menu in Italy, so you may not want to miss the opportunity and try these Americana pasta in Aspen.
I also tried the Grilled Albacore Tuna as my main course. The lemongrass glazed white tuna accompanied by a bok-choy kimchee, turnip cake and straw mushrooms was very tasty, but there was just too much of the fish for one. I loved the garnishes though.
The sorbets and ice cream is quite creative. My picks were mascarpone gelato, pommegranate and prickly pear sorbet, all but the last sattisfied my sweet cravings. The complimentary chocolates served later were boring, nothing artisanal.
After the dinner I would not rush to your chalet or hotel and stay for a drink or tea in the Great Room. The cosy chairs, cracking fire-place and the home-cosy decoration will glue you in.
From the wine-by-the-glass selection I was particularly impressed by the Dr. Loosen, Urziger Wurzgarten, Riesling Spätlese from Germany since it is one of my favourite off-dry wines gushing with spicy tones and a good acidity to balance the sweetness. It is not ideal to start with, rather have it as a milder dessert wine after the meal. The list is rich in older vintages of the California heroes as well as the French classics from Bordeaux, Rhône and Burgundy. The Cabernets from the legendary Heitz Cellars, Martha’s Vineyard, Beaulieu Vineyard as well as Opus One, lots of Meritage and Pinots (my New World favourites are from Oregon), are all good “local” (US) choice. South America, Africa as well as Australia is represented as well, yet, France and Italy dominate the opulent wine list just after the local Cabs. Some good half-bottles might seduce for a little splurge, just keep in mind that they age faster, and another catch, there are plenty of the 1970s vintages, and as the sommelier emphatically advised, this was one of the worst decades for wines elsewhere. Perhaps, that is why they still remained on their list after the decades of lavish indulgence at the Caribou Club! We appreciated his honesty and bet on a 1999 Cos d’Estournel. As one of the highlights of the left bank Bordeaux, the wine was elegant and smooth. Caribou is a club so the cocktails can be made according to your whims. Tea-to-tellers or detoxers, the wide-ranging tea list is surprisingly good as well!
Open for dinner during the season from 6:30 pm
411 E Hopkins Ave, Aspen, CO 81611
+1 970 925 2929

Chocolate Euphoria: chocolate baking for your Valentine

We should eat and share chocolate with others as it gives us even more pleasure than selfishly and lonely indulge in the hedonistic act of gorging on that leftover birthday chocolate cake. For these of you who are more practical I am sharing these recipes for tasty dark chocolate desserts that I have recently learned during an evening chocolate baking class at the Natural Gourmet Institute in New York. These delicious pastries do not take half day to bake and you do not need too many ingredients so you can make any of them quickly.
Cuisine: Desserts/ chocolate.
Cooking school: Natural Gourmet Institute in New York.
Chef/instructor: Jay Weinstein is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and the author of many food-related books. He worked at the Michelin acclaimed New York restaurant Le Bernardin and many others. I admired how well he managed three groups of people each creating chocolate sensations from different recipes. He led us all to success that was rewarded by a chocolate-themed late dinner with a glass of plump and juicy Pinot Noir from California.

Recipe for the Chocolate Velvet Cake

serves 16 portions
– this cake was a substantial majority favourite of the class attendees.
Ingredients: 8 large eggs; 1 pound semi-sweet chocolate, 8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter; 1/4 cup strong coffee; cocoa powder for dusting.
Method: Preheat oven to 325 °F (162ºC). Grease an 8″ or 9″ springform pan, and line the bottom with waxed or parchment paper. Wrap the outside of the pan in foil to prevent leaks. Prepare a pot of boiling water in which you put a smaller bowl or pot filled with chocolate, sliced butter and coffee. Let it melt a bit and then start stirring it until the substances melt. In an electric mixer, beat the eggs until they double in volume (about 5 minutes). Fold in the whipped eggs in three additions into the melted chocolate. Mix carefully, just enough to incorporate the eggs into the chocolate. Pour it all into the prepared springform pan and place it into a deep roasting pan. Pour enough boiling water into the roasting pan to come about halfway up on the sides of the cake. Put both on to the lower-middle rack of the oven and bake about 25 minutes, until the cake rises slightly and has a thin crust. You can use a thermometer and stick it into the middle of the cake. When it reads 140 ºF (60ºC) then it is ready. Then transfer the springform to a wire rack and cool to room temperature. Refrigerate for several hours.
* For conversion of °F to ºC and equivalent gas marks use this chart.
To serve: Warm sides of the springform with a hot, wet towel to let the cake loosen and then pop and open it. Cut with a hot wet knife, which you wipe and make wet each time you cut a new slice. Dust with cocoa powder and place on a plate with refreshing tips of mint, or red berries for a sexy look.

Chocolate baking brownies

You can make also something a bit more simple like these superb Brownies (these are really the best I have ever had):
Ingredients: 3 eggs; 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract; 1 cup of white flour; 4 ounces of unsweetened baking chocolate; 3/4 cup of butter (or coconut oil); 1 1/2 cups of organic sugar; 1 cup of chopped walnuts.
Method: Preheat the oven to 325 ºF (162ºC). Grease a 9″ x 13″ sized glass baking dish.
Melt the chocolate and butter together in a double boiler (put a big bowl over a large pot with hot water), leave it melt a bit and then stir it until it becomes smooth and the chocolate is just melted. Take out of the heat, stir in sugar, whole eggs and vanilla extract and at the end the flour with walnuts.
Then you pour all the mixture into a glass baking dish. Bake for 20-35 minutes until a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out with fudgy crumbs. Cool in the baking dish before transferring to a cutting board. Cut into 24 squares and serve.

Chocolate souflé

For the adventurous half of you, try to make a Chocolate souflé (serves 12), which is one of trickiest chocolate baking desserts to keep an eye on – the trick is do not open the oven before they are almost done!
Ingredients: 5 tablespoons unsalted butter; 1/2 cup organic sugar; 8 ounces roughly chopped bittersweet chocolate; pinch of salt; 1 teaspoon vanilla extract (liquid); 1 tablespoon citrus liqueur such as Tripple Sec; 6 egg yolks; 8 egg whites; 1/4 teaspoon of a cream of tartar.

Method: 1 tablespoon of softened of butter use to coat the ceramic pots for soufflé and then coat with a layer of sugar or cocoa powder. Shake it around the buttered dishes so it all gets entirely covered otherwise the dough will stick to the pots. Combine remaining 4 tablespoons of chopped butter with chopped chocolate over a double boiler (put a big bowl over a large pot with hot water) until it just melts. Then stir in salt, vanilla and citrus liqueur.
Correctly whip egg whites in a clean mixing bowl so they stick to the whisk attachment on the mixer and form a V-shaped, snow-like mountain. During mixing add a cream of tartar (usually in a form of white powder).

Simmer the sugar with 1/3 cup of water until it dissolves. In a mixer whisk this sirup gradually into the egg yolks that have been whipped slightly before. Whip until the mixture triples in volume and is light in colour (takes about 5 minutes). Fold these whipped yolks together with melted chocolate.

Fold one-third of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture and add them carefully until you use all of them. Divide the batter into the prepared coated ceramic pots, don’t fill them entirely as they will rise after the baking. Level off the tops with a spatula so they are even. Transfer them into a freezer until you want them to serve. Then bake at 400 ºF until fully risen for about 18-20 minutes. Only check them in 18 minutes and do not open the oven before!
This is the result that you serve warm with a creamy vanilla sauce poured in the middle of each individual soufflé (make a small howl with a spoon into the centre).
Next to the chocolate baking class, this calendar of Classes at Natural Gourmet Institute in New York can help you with planing ahead.
+1 212 645 5170
48 W 21st St #2, New York, NY 10010; USA.

Wá: understated sushi bistro in West Hollywood

Wá is woah – amazing. Whether you get the omakase chef’s menu or order á la carte, you will be mesmerised by the quality of ingredients and the skills of the chef.
Sushi omakase at Wa
Cuisine: Japanese, sushi and innovative Japanese cold and warm dishes.
Visit: February 2013
Price: Medium (for such a tremendous quality it is a good deal, compared to the hyped Matsuhisa south on the same road or the ultra-luxurious Urasawa on Rodeo it is a steal).
Wa sushi counter
Chef: The trio of founding chefs from Japan come from the rare breed of chefs honing their culinary skills at the nearby Matsuhisa. As many from this herd of skilled chefs they left this legendary precursor to the international chain of trendy Japanese restaurants Nobu (Matsuhisa) and established their own place. Wá has been at La Cienega for some years now and it has under its roof multiple dining awards mainly from the critical local press, but also from the coveted Zagat guide that gave Wá extraordinary 28 points (30 is maximum).
Creative sushi roll at Wá
Food: Traditional with gourmet twist of the chef and superb quality of ingredients. The menu is fun as most of it are dishes you have probably never seen before. If you do not want to risk it order one of the most popular dishes highlighted on the first page. I have started with the Halibut Carpaccio and savoured the Tuna Carpaccio from the omakase of my partner and was not disappointed. The fish was fresh and the condiments (mustard sauce) perfectly matched the type of the fish.

My next course was more adventurous. I have ordered the Mozuku kelp that the server told me is popular in Japan (mainly in Okinawa) but not in the US for its rather “very traditional taste”. Usually majority of diners go for the dark green wakame sea weed, the flat wide noodle-shaped and slightly crunchy seaweed that is tasty only with vinegar and other condiments, yet I was pleasantly surprised by the Mozuku sea weed. Resembling super-thin soba noodles, it was slightly brownish and delicate. The chef made it savoury with sweet soy vinegar and served on a bad of jelly in a flattering glass. The omakase plate of Caviar and white fish uni was also quite adventurous yet delicious.
Uni with caviar and white fish
This time I skipped the Caviar and gold leaf crowned terrine of ankimo (monkfish liver) since I was not as keen on it last time I had it at Matsuhisa in Aspen, Colorado. It seems quite rich and fatty next to the pristine fish and seafood dishes.
Deep fried tofu trio
Vegetarian options such as the sizling Mushroom tobanyaki or tofu will please the local veggie fans. It is all well-presented so not only your soul but also your aesthetical self will both be pleased. From the warm dishes I highly recommend the Agedashi tofu with pepper. The three cubes of lightly fried tofu in broth with shi-shito pepper, seaweed and condiments were soft with the sauce adding lots of freshness and depth to the neutral tofu.
Sizling Mushroom tobanyaki
One of the signature dishes the Lobster Tempura with Spicy Creamy Sauce was delicious as well. It was not as big as the dishes like this (Rock shrimp tempura) tend to be, which is highly practical because the fried lobster together with spicy creamy sauce are quite hard to digest. Therefore enjoy this yummy dish with moderation in a stylish martini glass.
Of course there are staples such as the The crispy rice and spicy tuna, but also the chef’s own take on them like in the Spicy Tuna Special of spicy tuna in shiso leaves, which is lightly fried with tempura sauce.. In the case of the crispy rice he fries it a bit more so the rice gets burning amber hues adding more richness and depth to the already distinctive tasting dish.
There are some desserts on the menu as well. In Japanese restaurants I love the Mochi ice cream so I went for it. Just ask your server for available flavours. I got mango, green tea and vanilla – all subtle and slightly sweet, mango being my favourite. Usually I like the green tea flavour, yet this time the mochi was less about the tea and more about the sweetness presumingly catering to the local American palates.
Mochi ice cream
Atmosphere: Understated, friendly and humming with coming and leaving diners popping in and out constantly. Wá is not about looks, it is a low-key dining spot on the second floor of a small strip mall above a Jiu Jitsu school and just next to 7-Eleven market. There is a parking garage downstairs for the driving guests convenience. The sushi bistro additionally offers one semi-private room with a large Tv. There you can watch your favourite team or a Tv show with your friends while savouring the tremendous food. In the main dining room you can sit on a bar, which is ideal for the omakase, where the chef serves you one course after another as he pleases. The rest are just simple tables. Wear anything casual, even sneakers and baseball hats. I love the little details (like the one below) you can find around the restaurant.
The Ladies bathroom doll
Opening hours: Open only for dinner Tue-Sun: 6pm-11pm. Closed on Mondays.
Address: 1106 N La Cienega Blvd #201; West Hollywood, CA 90069, USA.
Contact: Tel: +1 (310) 854-7285

Palmaz winery in Napa Valley – video

Palmaz winery is a family owned estate equipped with modern winemaking facilities in Napa Valley, California. Set in the midst of the sprawling property dwells their mostly underground cellar, where the highly regarded wines are made. Gravity winemaking is signature to Palmaz winery’s natural approach to wine. Must see is the impressive collection of antique cars, unprecedented even in the exuberant Napa Valley, that makes the visit entertaining for the entire family. While kids admire the centenary vehicles, you can indulge and sip on their exquisite range of white and red wines.

When in the Napa Valley, I interviewed the owners of these four outstanding family vineyards: Gargiulo, Martin Estate, Quixote and Palmaz.

Failla: soaring above the California Coast from a winery in Napa

Failla is a family business that manifests itself in the home-like interior of the tasting room cum lounge. A husband and wife teamed together to create Failla, gentlemanly named after Anne-Marie Failla, the wife of the winemaker Ehren Jordan.

The winemaker Ehren Jordan had an intriguing path to winemaking. Without any degree in oenology, his experiences from being a wine salesman, wine waiter in the posh Aspen, tourist guide at the Phelps winery, and later under the helm of the French oenologist Jean-Luc Columbo working at the Cornas vineyards in the Rhône valley, all formed his aptitude to holistic approach to wine making.
After his Euro trip Jordan returned to California and worked for the celebrated Marcassin winery (their wines have a wild boar on their labels). Their vineyards on the Sonoma Coast with the steep hillsides are similar to those of Cornas. He made a great job there and recognizing the wine-producing potential of the then little known Sonoma Coast, he bought a parcel with only five plantable acres that later became Failla’s Estate Vineyard. The area has a distinct cool climate (elevation minimum 1000 feet), and peaks just above the foggy layer typical for the North coast of California, so the three varietals planted there – Syrah, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – can thrive. It has been farmed organically since the beginning.
Until today the winemaker imprints his European elegance-seeking skills into his wines. As Robert M. Parker (the famous American wine critic) observed, he creates “European-inspired wines, that combine flavor, intensity and elegance.” Today, Jordan makes a Rhône-style Syrah, a Burgundy-style Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Flying winemaker soaring above the coasts

Ehren loves to fly. No wonder he pursued this quite rare hobby. He has been sourcing Pinots from the Keefer Ranch, Occidental Ridge, Hirsch Vineyard and Peay Vineyards on the Sonoma Coast as well as from Willamette Valley in Oregon. Since the 2005 vintage from Rancho Santa Rosa in the Santa Rita Hills North of Santa Barbara, and finally since 2006 Appian Way Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley. The Chardonnay comes from the Phoenix Ranch and Hudson Vineyard in Napa Valley, Monument Tree from Anderson Valley as well as from the Keefer Ranch in Russian River Valley. The Syrah, some Chardonnay and Pinot is planted at the above mentioned Estate Vineyard in Sonoma Coast. He also makes a little bit of Viognier from Alban Vineyard in Edna Valley. He covers so many parts of California (he abandoned the project in Oregon), that he has to commute constantly between these vineyards if he wants to keep quality in check. Flying his own little plane makes sourcing grapes from all these diverse areas possible.

The Failla wines

Failla is not producing millions of bottles, it is more a boutique winery making between 70 – 700 cases (approximately) a year of each wine, depending on the vintage conditions.
Failla Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard 2010 has a buttery nose given by malolactic fermentation of a more aggressive malic acid into a creamier lactic acid (you find in sour milk products, fruits and vegetables). It is a medium bodied wine with a good dose of acidity balancing the level of alcohol (14.1%), so you do not feel it on the palate. Sweet spices like cloves add depth and roundness, exotic touch of ripe bananas enhance the sweet sensation on your tongue, but a long salty finish refreshes your mouth, ready for the next sip.
Failla Syrah Hudson Vineyard 2010 Napa Valley: plump and juicy in the mouth, gamey and meaty on the nose, this Syrah has it all and it is by far not shy. Its expressive rich body shows ripe blackberry and currants, masculine character of game and crisp acidity that enlivens the wine and racy tannins on the backbone. Have it with meat or seared mushrooms.
Failla Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard 2010 Sonoma Coast: lush fruit, black berries, like the Marcassin Pinot, plus a rhubarb spiced up with anise and white pepper. A lovely balance and acidity that is refreshing and rounding up tannins that are rather steel cut than big and rough. Long spicy finish with lingering black fruit ensures that will not stop after one glass, craving more of this easy-going fruity sensation. (Littorai also makes great Pinot from the Hirsch Vineyard)
These wines are absolutely worth trying. The Marcassin Pinot lovers will appreciate the Failla wines tremendously.
3530 Silverado trail, N.; St. Helena; California; CA 94574
+1 707 963 0530
Tours and tastings available by appointment only.

Viader: winemaker, doctor and a courageous mother of four in the helm of Napa winery

The Viader winery and its surrounding vineyards occupy perhaps the most beautiful location in the entire Napa Valley area. Just peak at the picture bellow, where embroidered by the vine groves this lake paradise in the valley comes to life. As one settles at the winery’s terrace overlooking the Howell Mountain estate vineyards it gets under your skin and beyond your imagination. Let the enchantment by the wonderful scenery that spreads in front of you like a sun-dusted blanket on a freshly grown grass settle you into its cushion on the bed of a vast meadow.

WINEMAKER AND PROPRIETOR

You do not come to Viader only for the looks though. Delia Viader, the owner and winemaker, knows very well that wine is not only about the land the grapes grow in, but also about the personalities involved with the vineyard and the entire complex process of winemaking. Many people, who know her would say that she is a bit over-educated for a winemaker. Delia holds a doctorate in philosophy from Sorbonne in Paris and pursued numerous business courses in the USA. Her passion for fine wine lead her to study also Enology and Viticulture at University of California Davis. With all these degrees you might think that her wine must be highly sophisticated. Indeed, as my tasting experience proved, the wines she makes are intriguing and very well made.

Greeted by a friendly dalmatian dog just as we exited the bunker-like door leading from the winery to the vineyards we felt welcome. Moreover, Delia’s Argentine roots manifest themselves in her friendly and positively tuned manner, and that puts you into the right mood for the wine tasting.

Viader winery WINES

The wines were all intense, sufficiently concentrated, but elegant and not too chewy as some old-fashioned California Cabernets tend to be. There are eight wines produced under the Viader label:
Viader Proprietary Cabernet Blend, the signature wine. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc known under a nickname “Liquid Cashmere”. It is a succulent, fruit-driven wine with a long ageing potential. The Cabernet Franc adds violet flower aroma and royal elegance.

“V” is a Petit Verdot dominated blend, balanced by Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. It is a powerful wine. Petit Verdot is a very tannic grape, but it needs some acidity to achieve longer ageing potential, the Cabs add complexity as well as the desired acidity and harmonise the strong Petit Verdot. This was my favourite wine from the range we tasted.
VIADER Syrah is a blend of two clones of Syrah – the Australian Shiraz from Barossa Valley and French from the Rhone Valley. Here the spices of the Australian clone mingle with the elegance and distinct Rhone Syrah aroma.
VIADER Black Label is a limited edition of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Malbec. This wine was born as an initiative taken by Alan Viader, who spent one harvest in Argentina where he got inspired to grow the Mendoza‘s famous varietal here on the family estate at Howell Mountain. We have not tried this wine since this is a limited edition released in very small amounts.

DARE is a single varietal line of the following grapes under three different labels: Cabernet Sauvignon; Cabernet Franc and Tempranillo.
DARE Cabernet Sauvignon is a “classic mountain cab”. It is a complex single variety wine with aromas of black cherry, dark currant, tobacco and cedar. There is a slight caramel flavour from the oak ageing. This wine should be drink young, within five years.
DARE Cabernet Franc had also acquired some sweet spices from barrel ageing with vanilla, sweet caramel and tobacco leading the suite. The fruits contributed with scents of black currant, liquorice and cocoa to create a palate-awakening wine.
DARE Tempranillo as a “latin spice” brings this Spanish varietal to life at the Howell Mountain vineyard. It is charming with floral notes, refreshing minerality and earthy feel, while showing quality-driven wine as it has a great fruit concentration.
DARE Rosé is made by the Southern French method of “bleeding grapes” (saigné method) of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon. The pink juice from the macerating must is removed at an early stage just to leave more colour, aromas and tannins. We have not tried this rosé.
Visit Viader and unwind during the hot summer or ideally during one of the cosy warm autumn days. In both seasons there are trees protecting you from the heat as well as open spaces facing the valley so you can savour the last powerful sun rays of the year.
1120 Deer Park Road, Deer Park, CA 94576
Daily from March through October – 10am – 4:30pm (during the winter months only on Sundays).
Cante Swearingen; Director of Hospitality cante@viader.com

Melka: building a modern winery in Napa

How one gets there (new winery above) from here (piece of untamed land below)?

Philippe and Cherie Melka have perhaps the most challenging work in their entire career in the wine business ahead of them. Building a winery from scratch is more complex than building a house. One has to consider a number of factors such as visitors room, storage, cellar, cooling system, special permits in protected areas (which often wine regions are) and above all the location itself as it is more advantageous to have the winery as close to all vineyards as possible to avoid unnecessary manipulation with the picked grapes.
The success of the construction will influence the future success of the wines produced under the Melka name here in Napa.
Their wines are a huge asset for them already, but they have been made so far at other wineries where Philippe Melka has been consulting.
Philippe lived during his childhood and teenage years in Bordeaux, France, where he earned a geology degree from the University of Bordeaux. In the last year of his studies he took a wine course out of curiosity and that has changed his life completely leading him to work at the legendary Chateau Haut Brion as well as Chateau Petrus between others.

Melka’s philosophy

Soil and its influence on quality of grapes and later wines became his primary quest and he travelled the world to learn more about this intriguing relationship. Melka was so fascinated by the potential and diversity of soils in Napa Valley that he decided to stay there to consult for a number of wineries. After a couple of years he and his wife Cherie (a well-known microbiologist in Napa) gave birth to their own brand the Melka Wines. Recently he was recognised by Robert Parker as one of the top wine consultants in the world and that was a huge game changer for him as well as for his brand.
I wish their new winery in Napa will be built soon and serve them well to create such magnificent terroir-driven wines as he has been making so far.

Melka Wines

Their main high-end line is called Métisse, which is a French word meaning “a blend of cultures”. Philippe is French (with Moroccan roots) and his wife American so their winemaking represents “a blend of cultures”. Recently its label got a modern colourful revamp.

There are three wines under the Métisse label, each coming from a different vineyard:

The Jumping Goat Vineyard – is a small vineyard owned by Jim and Stephanie Gamble and located in the heart of St. Helena in Napa Valley.

I have tasted the 2009 vintage which is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot. Only 400 cases of this wine have been produced for a retail price US$155.00. It was balanced, elegant, with tones of cassis and dark cherry, complemented by a smoky touch of cigar box. With such an intense and lingering finish you will not forget this wine soon.

La Mekkera Vineyard – is located in Knights Valley. Only 200 cases are made for US$125.00 retail price.

In 2008 vintage a blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Franc has enchanted my palate the most from all the Melka wines I have tasted now in 2012. Smelling it in the glass was just a teasing start. It revealed the aromas of black tea, dark chocolate, plums, dried flowers and a scent of kirsch. The volcanic soil in the winery influenced the smoky black tea character (Pur-eh) on the palate, enhanced with exotic flavours of dried flowers, this was a very soft and balanced pleasure for my taste buds.
Moving from Napa to Bordeaux, Philippe makes wine in St. Emilion under his Métisse label as well.

LE CHÂTELET VINEYARD is a ST. EMILION GRAND CRU blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc.

It is the smallest production for Melka with 120 cases made in 2009. Licorice and fennel vegetal character is underlined by a rocky strength and richness of cherry marmalade. The tannins were still too young so I would drink this wine in a couple of years from now. It has a life span of more than 25 years so no worries it would die any time soon.

CJ is an acronym for Philippe’s and Cherrie’s two children, Chloe and Jeremy.

It is a wine meant to be enjoyed young. It is a good value for money (US$52.00) compared to the more expensive Métisse line. It is a Napa Valley blend that changes every year depending on the wine makers decision.
The 2010 vintage was intensely fruity with sweet cassis, cherry, and refreshing spices on the palate. Too lush and rich for me though.

Sushi of Shiro in Seattle

Master Chef Shiro Kashiba is well-known in Seattle as the father of Japanese cuisine in the city. Sourcing the freshest ingredients, preparing unfussy and authentic Japanese fare in a friendly and simple environment are his signature trademarks.

Atmosphere: Unpretentious, lively and simple. In a way this restaurant reminds me Nobu’s “Matsuhisa” in Los Angeles. Simple wooden tables and chairs, japanese art on the walls, long sushi counter with busy chefs dressed all in white and of course the special doing-it-all-for-you japanese toilet. Wear jeans, shirt or anything casual except flip-flops and you will enjoy an unforgettable dinner in a full comfort.
Food: Fresh, superb quality fish and seafood, simple preparation. You are in Seattle so get ready for the best salmon you probably have ever had. The fish is so delicate, intense and complex here that I would call it a new species rather than the salmon you get elsewhere. To savour the fish the most just order it as a plain sashimi or sushi (on a bun of rice), so its flavour can reveal itself fully.

Starting with Albacore tataki salad, that my local friends frequenting Shiro for many years like the most from the appetizers, I knew that this dinner was going to be something out of this world in terms of dining experience. The Albacore tuna fish was so intense almost meaty in texture, but it was so perfectly balanced that only the most sophisticated palate would recognise it only by eye on a fish market. Served in yummy, melting chunks with a fermented sauce and spring onions, it was simple yet more rewarding than most of the special “new style” melon, kiwi or whatever else with tatakis I have eaten in many fashionable japanese restaurants.
The sushi and sashimi are heavenly fresh and of the highest quality. From the toro, yellowtail, salmon to lesser known fish the chef favours on the market on that certain morning. I rarely like just plain sushi and fancy the omakasa style prepared by a chef in his own original manner, but at Shiro the fish is so perfect and the rice just well-cooked and not too overly cooked and sticky that there is no need for special omakasa sushi here.

The rolls are simple as well. The spicy tuna roll (top left) is out-of-ordinary and the seared salmon (centre) and smoked eel (right) rolls are superb. The eal is served with a dense, honey-like sweet sauce atop the california-style roll. The seared salmon is accompanied with its eggs and chopped zesty green spring onions.

Cuisine: Japanese traditional sushi and cooked meals.
Visit: October 2012
Price: High (the most famous Japanese chef in Seattle cannot sell his carefully sourced fish of highest quality for pennies).
Drinks: Beer, sake, japanese green tea and some wine, but not too much choice for wine so I went for tea this time. I have learned this time that with plain and superb quality ingredients in japanese cuisine I can appreciate the flavours better when drinking only green and grassy tea with the food. At more modern restaurants such as Nobu I need the wine to help me metabolize all the complex sauces and heavier dishes. Moreover, the acidity especially in white wine allows me to eat more of these rich dishes.
Opening hours: Dinner Mon-Sun: 5:30–10:30pm.
Contact: Tel: +1 (206) 443-9844
Address: 2401 2nd Avenue Seattle, WA 98121, USA

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