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Beyond Sushi: fish-free vegan sushi rock'n rolls Manhattan

A slice of cucumber on sushi rice would not excite most foodies, but there is much more plant-based bounty that can chase your taste buds in vegan sushi. The idea of vegan sushi may electrify our conventional view of the Japanese seafood and rice bun slipped decadently in one mouthful deep into our bellies filled with desire. Most sushi lovers’ knees crumble at the sushi counter just looking at a lusciously fat slice of o-toro or a shimmering morsel of Spanish mackerel on a moist rice bun. That spicy tuna on a crispy rice what an idea! But, we cannot eat fish daily. There is a limit to what the oceans can provide.
In an accelerated pace the global waters are being depleted. With more fish almost extinct, responsively, we should lower the gears of our too frequent indulgence. For the sake of sustainability and health we must limit our consumption of seafood. The alert chimes loud today and we should be concerned about the fish bodies being polluted with heavy metals like mercury.

Widen your appetite and open your taste buds to new flavours

Luckily, there are other superb and wholesome fish-free options creatively brought to perfection by Beyond Sushi in New York . Creating a truly satisfying and tasty “green roll” was a tremendous success for the founding husband and wife duo Guy and Tali Vaknin, the chef and director of Beyond Sushi with Moroccan-Israeli roots.
Leading a highly successful catering business, the team was encouraged by savvy clients to expand to a real brick business. The first Beyond Sushi branch opened in July 2012 in Manhattan.
Prior to trying their rolls and nigiris my experience with fish or seafood-free sushi lead to questions like – why bother? Some over crafted contemporary sushis with cream cheese, marinated cucumber or egg omelette, pander rather to unsophisticated palates, not to someone who has eaten at best sushi bars in Tokyo.
The Vaknins stroke the golden vein when digging into the potential of plant-based sushi, saying: “We were looking for an innovative way to incorporate a vegetarian option to our sushi station that was more ground-breaking than the standard white rice, cucumber and avocado rolls.”

Most of us foodies, who love sushi, adore the premium ingredients used in its preparation, whether atop a nigiri or rolled inside a maki roll or wrapped in a cone of crispy seaweed. Aware of these expectations, this concept stretches far “beyond sushi” – offering a variety of healthier whole-grain rice options and seasonally changing vegan toppings, fillings and sides.
Most of the ingredients are sourced locally from the Union Square farmers market and sustainable New York Growers. Tali wrote me that they look for “vendors and farmers that strive to maintain a healthy ecosystem”. The farmers produce is the focal inspiration for the recipes and the seasonal specials rotate as the veggies and mushrooms grow on the farms, in the fields and forests in the region. The Roll and the Piece of the Month are reflections of these changing clocks of nature. In March, I had cauliflower with red beet sauce nigiri, in the fall sweet potato or pumpkin grace the vegan sushi.
Tali suggests: “Try our entire menu at some point. Everyone has a different palate and therefore may enjoy a different piece.”
My taste buds revelled in the enoki, shiitake, tofu and micro arugula wrapped in a customised whole-grain rice blend in their Mighty Mushroom Roll. They recommend their six grain rice for it. The colourful blend of red, short grain brown and black rice, nutritionally enhanced with rye berries and pearl barley is high in fiber and protein along with iron and a rainbow of B-Vitamins. These rolls are more nutritionally dense than the typical Japanese sushi. Their other rice option – the Forbidden black rice contains 18 amino acids, is loaded with anthocyanins, antioxidants, zinc, iron and carotene. The flavours mesmerise with freshness and deep forest richness of the side sauce of creamy teriyaki shiitake served with the Mighty Mushroom Roll.

The Spicy Mango Roll has been a best seller ever since the launch. As I munched through it I realised how the roll perfectly balances the sweet, savoury, zingy and spicy flavours in one bite. The avocado adds creamy texture, mango sweetness, cucumber juiciness and freshness and the spicy chopped veggies atop the roll zesty fire. If you want more heat, add the toasted cayenne sauce served on the side and I bet your mouth will be on a fire roll.
Another popular order is the Nutty Buddy Rice Paper Wrap and the wild assemble of the Spicy Shroom with buckwheat noodles, enoki, teriyaki braised shiitake, grilled portobello mushrooms, romaine lettuce, pickled ginger and cashews in a spicy sauce. Again served with a side of the luscious shiitake teriyaki sauce. The rice paper wraps can be served in two sizes – either as a small snack or a bigger main course.

The Rice Bed salads – Citrus, Zen and Verde, supplemented with chili, mango and carrot ginger sauces – are the most substantial orders at Beyond Sushi.
Sides and a home-made Miso soup complement the overwhelmingly rice-based vegan sushi menu. I like the house kimchi that is just spicy enough, but doesn’t burn your gut.
To drink, the freshly made juices like Strawberry Kiwi Yuzu quench the thirst while supplementing vitamins, lemonades cool you off during summer and tea warms you during the New York winter blizzards.
So far there are three locations across Manhattan, but expanding to the West Coast of the US is being considered. Beyond America, we will have to wait for some culinary sage being inspired by their health and environmentally sound business model as well as insanely tasty recipes for vegan sushi.
Locations: Union Square, Chelsea Market, Midtown West

Souen: in harmony with nature and ourselves through macrobiotic lifestyle

Souen is Manhattan’s pioneer of Japanese macrobiotic dining. The first location in Soho has been open since 1971, which was later extended to another two distinctive branches, each with its own focus. Sushi takes the main stage at the Union Square location, while in the East Village ramen steam from the kitchen. The latest opening does not stop at serving just its organic ramen (nourishing wheat noodle soup) as it offers plenty of choices from naturally synced plates.

At Souen the founders are serious about your nutritional and lifestyle education. They run regular courses onsite, but also virtually on their website, where anything related to macrobiotics is explained. Since “macrobiotics is a means to live comfortably in harmony with nature“, and was termed millennia ago by Hippocrates, the Greek father of medicine, as “large, long life“, it leads to a sustainable lifestyle, mindful of the interconnectivity of the natural elements. Eating a balanced diet constructed from locally grown, seasonal whole foods such as grains, vegetables with their skins and stems, some fish and seafood, while avoiding anything processed, excessively chemically treated, all that opposes to living, organic foods, shapes the tree of life for macrobiotics follower.
Adhering to such lifestyle is not just about what you eat, since an inseparable aspect of macrobiotic lifestyle is how you eat – each mouthful should be chewed at least 30times in order to appreciate the flavors mindfully in their entirety.
Not a trend monkey, jumping from one fad to another, Souen has been faithful to its naturalist path from its opening on Manhattan. The Japanese-run canteen roots for a conscious diet, yet in a truly American way, the menus are very extensive, making the choice harder. Allergens as well as other ‘sensitive’ ingredients (gluten, soy, fish) are thoughtfully highlighted inside the menu so any concerned eaters will not need to cross-examine the waiter.
The Union Square location makes sushi rolls from brown rice, while in the East Village they serve whole wheat udon noodles or gluten free buckwheat soba and rice noodles. Gluten-free choices include their home-made Corn Bread served with apple or tahini butter. They even state on their menu: “All menu items are gluten free with the exception of: Seitan, Soba, Udon, Baked tofu and Anything Fried”. Simplified, so you know what you are eating.
Most ingredients are organic and locally sourced. In particular the ‘dirty dozen’ including soybean miso paste, brown rice, beans, tofu and some fruits and vegetables. Simple preparations are the soul of macrobiotic food. Further, the macrobiotic plate doesn’t work if we are constantly restricting, thus stressing, ourselves. Having plenty of simple choices at Souen caters to these aspects of macrobiotics. The choice from three original home-made dressings of either Carrot, Sesame Vinaigrette and Tahini Dill for each salad inspired me to order the last, most popular one, with our Seaweed salad on the side. Almost everything can be customized to your liking from the way a fish is cooked, through your side dish to sauce. The fish is either caught wild or organic.

Unlike at most Japanese sushi counters where they are proud of serving their own style of roll, here you can select your fillings from vegetables, proteins and seafood. There are some interesting vegetarian rolls like the Inari roll made with fried bean curd skin marinated in sweet soy sauce, stuffed with sushi rice and watercress or the US style, salmon-based Alaskan roll, freshened with asparagus, carrot and cucumber with tahini dill on top, that might tempt you to let the choice on the chef. Nevertheless, most of the seafood are typically Japanese choices: steamed shrimp, eel, tuna, hamachi, mackerel, cod.
Fermented foods are proven to boost our immunity through the beneficial live bacteria that these foods contain. Miso is one of them but also pickled vegetables, mushrooms and roots like in Souen’s homemade side dish of pickles. Starting with a refreshing cold plate of Tataki Gobo marinated burdock in organic soybean miso paste we got our immunity running. The richness of the marinade and crunchy burdock root were in perfect harmony not just with nature but also taste-wise.
Another vegetarian small plate of Yuba steamed tofu “skin” marinated in kombu-shiitake broth is not for everyone. It is an acquired taste, and I remember accidentally buying it at a market in Kyoto, thinking it was a soy yoghurt. As I dipped my spoon into the milky broth and with raised eyebrows pulled the noodle-like streaks of yuba, I thought, fun, something new, and as I slowly chewed, my pace decreased and my mouth pulled itself from aside to side, up and down, unwilling to swallow the weird, chewy and gloopy stuff. Finally, I did, but could not force myself to give it another chance. It was only later, when I inquired with an English speaking Japanese native, that I learned that its drier version is easier to appreciate. At Souen they make this later version just perfect, plus the marinade helps. You can also have it in a vegetable soup, but we went for the more classical bowl of soy-bean-paste-based miso soup after adventuring with the cold yuba.
Mains are vegetable based. Very flexible and available at all three locations is the balanced Macro Plate of steamed greens, vegetables, brown rice, hijiki seaweed, beans and home made dressing. We tried the popular set plate of Broccoli Tofu, an ultra nourishing combo of broccoli sautéed with carrot, onion and crushed tofu in carrot sauce. A naughty option is Parmigiana Sandwich, a deep-fried cutlet with whole wheat-crust cooked in beet marinara sauce. It is still a healthier version of the Italian Veal Milanese. Fried foods are, health-wise, perhaps the only questionable fixtures at Souen. Tempura offered at the Union Square branch is tasty though.

Yin and Yang foods

Souen’s food approach (also macrobiotics) is rooted in the yin and yang foods as was documented by Traditional Chinese Medicine. These are considered according to their cooling or heating properties also in most Eastern diets. Undercover even the Indian ayurveda draws from these principles. The holistic Traditional Chinese Medicine coined these terms, and the Japanese acquired them together with chopsticks, ceramics also some of the other for millennia-held health views.
The theory is centered around the nervous system, that is divided to parasympathetic nervous system (yang) and sympathetic nervous system (yin). Good health results from the balance between the two systems.
Four factors that determine whether a food is yin or yang:*
• How the food grows (including speed and direction)
• Where the food was grown (in northern or southern climates)
• The sodium-potassium content
• And the effect the food has on the body (hot or cold effects)
You should eat “cool” foods when it is hot, and “hot” foods when it is cold. Additionally to this, in ayurveda and traditional Thai folk medicine also the natural elements must be balanced (earth, fire, water, air-wind). For a Westerner it may sound complicated, but at Souen they are willing to advise and school you during the regular lifestyle courses on weekends. Check http://souen.net/latestnews.html for current happenings.

‘Macro’ drinks and sweet treats

One of the most popular teas for macrobiotic lifestyle followers in Japan is Kuki-cha. The lightly brown infusion is based on the tea plant’s stems, the twig tree, that are lightly caffeinated while rich in calcium and vitamin C.
Wonderfully tasting is the Mu 16 Tea. Despite its strange name, this blend of 16 mountain grown herbs including licorice, ginseng, ginger, peony root, cinnamon and other lesser known plants grown in Japan, is a perfect balancing tonic created by George Ohsawa, the father of Macrobiotics. It strengthens mainly the stomach and reproductive organs.
No caffeine is found as well as in barley and rye ‘coffee‘, an ideal alternative to overtly acidic coffee that can be savored all day long.
Organic fruits and vegetable juices are being extracted by Norwalk juicer, with the promise of “not destroying all the nutrients and enzymes, containing three to five times more nutritional value than conventional juicers“.
Souen also offers take-away including its delicious pastries, cookies and other sweet treats. The Blueberry Scone was out of this world! Baked with spelt and brown rice flour, maple and rice syrup, almonds, sesame seeds and dried yet lush berries, it was moist inside while keeping the crumbly crust typical for great scones.

At the Union Square branch, upstairs the seating is less busy and better for a more relaxing evening meal, while the ground level is where all the buzz happens, although, arguably, the Latino chefs in the kitchen singing into the tunes of their bouncy music hidden from your sight only by a monkey-faced curtain underground steal the show for the most entertaining band. The newest East Village spot is nicest in terms of design and ideal for a healthy date out.
Although New York and other metropolitan cities have been swayed in the health, detox and organic taxonomy, Souen is not about trends and fashionable ingredients that leave the spotlight as soon as the season passes and chefs and food writers get bored of it. Macrobiotics is not just about what to eat, but it is an entire lifestyle that should be followed long-term if not for life, so its health benefits are maximized.
Addresses on Manhattan:
UNION SQUARE: 28 East 13th Street
Between University Pl & 5th Ave
Tel: +(1) 212-627-7150
Monday – Saturday: 11am – 10:30pm
Sunday: 11am – 10pm
EAST VILLAGE: 326 E 6th St, New York, NYC;
Between 1st & 2nd Avenue
Tel: +(1) 212-388-1155
Monday – Saturday: 12pm – 11pm
Sunday: 12pm – 10pm
SOHO: 210 6th Ave & Prince St. NYC
Tel: +(1) 212-807-7421
Monday – Friday: 11:30am – 10:30pm
Saturday: 11am – 10:30pm
Sunday: 11am – 10pm
*Information obtained from Souen.

Photo essay: colors of New Hampshire reflected on a lake

The Squam Lake in the state of New Hampshire is tucked between the geographic teeth of Vermont and Maine in the Northeastern corner of the US, while pouting its Northern lip towards Canada. Its shores are a magnet for nature lovers, fishing hobby-men, families and all ‘aquaphiles’. Its mesmerising beauty captivates the wholeness of one’s attention in its full bloom just before the sun sets inside the mossy cushions of the verdant horizon. This strip of by trees covered hills chameleons itself into a seasonal colour spectrum, worth observing particularly during the fall. Observe as the day light conducts the daily transformation from an afternoon till sunset and wonder at the striking palette of nature in these mind-soothing photos.

Dirt Candy: veggies in sweet leading role

Dirt Candy, as its raunchy name evokes, is once again back on Manhattan to provoke. Teasing carnivores with its vegie-centric menu has swirled over the years of its existence into a serious dining institution, now seducing even steakhouse devotees. Delicious food prepared without meat enlightens their faith towards eating more plants.
What used to be an outlier, is now the trendiest and most creative vegetarian restaurant in New York. Its Canadian chef and founder Amanda Cohen was the first vegetarian chef to challenge the title of the American Iron Chef. Her weapon in the contest was a humble cruciferous broccoli. Facing the extremely popular and highly motivated Hiroshima-born Japanese chef Masaharu Morimoto, she did not win, but captured attention of the intrigued American public.

The original 18-seat vegetarian restaurant had to close down after six years of operation for high demand and reopen at the beginning of 2015 as a substantially larger space to accommodate soaring reservations. With the entire New York food reviewing scene excited about its revamp, it was a miracle that I managed to get in. On the very first day, when the reservation lines opened, I secured a seat for two at 5:30 pm (probably the earliest dinner I have had to date).
It was a messy, rainy late afternoon as we arrived at the hip, East Village situated restaurant. Some early walk-ins were snacking and imbibing on fashionable superfoods-juiced cocktails at the bar, the ready-to-race staff was lined up on the starting line, so far outnumbering the diners (from the original staff of eight at the old place, it expanded to 32). The action fired off about an hour later as the garden-walled and comfortably decorated bright room with ecolitious plant paintings was rupturing with beehive hum. There was not a single table left even at the bar, that is generally welcoming to casual walk-ins.
No wonder, since Dirt Candy not just challenges the established fish or meat-focused gastronomic dining, pleasantly surprises, but also satisfies your taste buds as well as appetite. All that without the fuss of a typical haughty Michelin-stared establishment. Its cool and modern outfit is buttoned up by the waiters’ knowhow of the animal-friendly assemblage on your plate. The honesty and slight rebelliousness shows in their sourcing. When asking about where the ingredients come from I was responded: “Our dry goods are organic, but we don’t go out of our way to do the local and organic dance.” Fair and practical approach.

The sweet and Earth-bound name of the restaurant allusively reflects the chef’s philosophy of creating her meals. Using vegetables whenever possible and showing them in their full seasonal bloom in mostly unconventional plates like desserts, is like the stem of a flower at Dirt Candy, essential. The “Dirt” is for the vegetables growing from the dirty Earth, while “Candy” implies the almost revolutionary use of vegetables as the leading actor, even in sweet dishes.
Unlike the typical gluten-rich carrot cake, based mainly on flour and eggs, Cohen’s desserts are assembled to showcase and maximize the content of the featured vegetable. The chef relishes in shocking its diners, garnishing some desserts with a bunch of refreshing greens or dehydrated carrots.
The Dirt Candy’s desserts are all made with vegetables. Not entirely, and some are not vegan, containing milk, but the roots, leafs and bulbs form the spine of each sweet dish. First, the sound of it might not appeal to your taste buts, but trying one does not kill anyone (although sugar is used in most of them so diabetics should inquire about other options). Just looking at the pictures or neighbors’ plates will make you salivate. You can also spot them in the chef’s comic cookbook, Dirt Candy: A Cookbook, that is the first graphic novel cookbook to be published in North America. The Celery Cheesecake and Carrot Merringue are fascinating, and on their own a tempting reason to dine at Dirt Candy.

The dishes are of the Michelin caliber, very creative, using top quality produce and artfully presented, each as a composition of complex flavors. As the colorful bouquet of bread was served before our order, we were like kids curious about the flavor of each bun – should I pick the green, the purple or the bronzed yellow? Each white-flour-based ‘balloon’ of the “Monkey Bread” was flavored with a different vegetable, a truly engaging take off!
Starting with the “Mushroom” appetizer of portobello mushroom mousse with sautéed Asian pears, cherries and a truffle toast we were tuning smoothly toward Dirt Candy’s bring-the-world-of-flavors-all-together creative station. Then came the Indian-styled “Cauliflower” in a Curry with Green Pea Paneer (Sheep’s cheese), Papaya Chutney and crunchy Pappadam bread. It was a nice dish, yet the weakest from all what we tried there. I know many Indian chefs making better vegetarian curries. It is a tough contest with the country’s entire culinary culture based on vegetarian meals.
The “Carrot” was pulled, pickled and jerked, then served with peanut mole sauce atop carrot waffles. Not a light dish, but delicious and satisfying.

Sharing the famous “Brussels Sprouts” still joyfully roasting themselves when served in front of you on a hot lava stone, not just created a “wow!” effect on our table, but they indeed are also supremely delicious. The sizzling sprouts were accompanied by Tex-Mex inspired condiments of homemade smoked avocado, pickled red onion, salsa verde, jalapeños, sliced radishes, lime, cream and tortilla strips, and lettuce wrappers. As you wrap the “tacos” yourself, it also becomes more fun. Even meat lovers, like my husband, that would rarely go to a vegetarian restaurant for dinner, was happily munching on these novelties and eager to come back. Ms. Cohen, this is what I call success! Since, for all of us, eating less meat is better not just for our health, but also for the animals’ welfare.

Natural wines in the spotlight

Along with some non-alcoholic blended options and a limited selection of teas, a small but focused wine list as well as classic cocktails such as G&T are offered for a more indulgent evening out.
The wine card features interesting global pickings of organic and natural wines from out-of-the-radar places like my native Czech Republic (Jaroslav Osicka and his blend of Chardonnay with Pinot Gris was the most pleasant wine-by-the-glass I tried there).
Natural (without any additives and with a minimum intervention of the winemaker – meaning low or zero added sulfur, unfiltered, unfined), organic and biodynamic wines can, when manipulated incorrectly, sour your mood if you are not used to some of their sensitive “natural” characteristics such as slight fizz and unusual yeasty aromas. There are some that are excellent though!
Knowing the quirks of natural wines, I asked for a taste of each before firmly ordering. Since most of the wines on the list are served by the glass and even a half-glass, it is very practical for any consumer, in particular in the generously pouring style in America. There was even a non-alcoholic German “wine” on the menu, so go for it if you are driving in the traffic wildness of Manhattan!
Dirt Candy strikes a perfect balance for the serious gourmets, vegetarian or carnivores. The restaurant stirs your curiosity, pleases your palate and is refined enough that only a very experienced chef could have created it so perfectly at home. Vegans, allergy sufferers and diners with other dietary requirements are encouraged to mention their restrictions. So far the restaurant has been open only for dinner, but lunch and brunch are on the horizon.
Check their website for updates.
Contact: +1 212 228 7732
Address: 86 Allen Street, New York, NY 10002
Opening hours: Tue-Sat: 5:30 pm – until when the last table for 11pm reservation leaves.

Indulgent Aspen dining: foodies treasure in Colorado

The Aspen dining scene is the most vibrant in America for a ski resort. Beyond winter, there are plenty of restaurants, cafés and bars to indulge in during all seasons though. Over 30 years old, the Aspen Food and Wine Classics held annually in balmy June flies in foodies and wine-to-tellers from all corners of America. This bazaar of flavours is one of the extraordinary gastronomic events in which the most coveted chefs, on-the-TV food celebrities and wine experts mostly from the US show off their taste-alluring weapons. The best new chefs in America are voted, while swarms of connoisseurs hive into the green valley covered by the leafy aspen trees, and all, not just the trees, are blooming with anticipation.
Whether you visit the Colorado mountain resort during the festival or pop over for other popular events, to ski, hike or mountain bike, in spring, summer, fall or winter, you will need to eat. The Aspen’s gourmet soul will exceed any humble expectations for quite a remote town and treat any palate lavishly. Choose from its casual cafés, brunch holes in the wall, fancy and fun international restaurants and anything naughty imaginable selling parlours. These include freshly baked brownies and cookies teasing your nose with fragrant spices, perfectly brewed barrister coffee, in chocolate or caramel submerged apples on a stick, whatever you want inside filled wraps, and just imagine what else. Indeed, the foodies treasure in Colorado. Aspen satisfies all cravings, so get your bum moving on the slopes to deserve it, and do not just stop in the chalet of the Aspen Club up on the lift, tempting yes, but the marshmallow topped hot chocolate (I find it gross, tried, but many love it!) will wait.

Get the breakfast rolling at the casual eats and cafés in Aspen

In the morning, before commencing all the energy depleting activities, a fortifying breakfast is a must. The caffeine awakening poured into a cup of freshly roasted coffee and a bite into a perfect carb-rich breakfast brownie, fresh from the oven and made at the Paradise Bakery (320 S. Galena Street), make for a great start. Also their warm chocolate chip cookie, fluffy muffins or the ham and cheese croissant are the perfect take aways for the long gondola ride up the Ajax mountain in the winter. On warm and sunny days, you can sit just outside the bakery on practical chairs or the benches jumbled on the pavement.
Another excellent, yet healthier breakfast venue is the Aussie style Victoria Espresso and Wine Bar (510 E. Durant Avenue). There, customised chai lattes, house blended teas and artisan roasted coffee supply high quality caffeine boost. Everything is freshly baked and prepared on the premises. The house granola with yogurt and fruits is a well-balanced energiser for the active day ahead. For the curious imbibers, trying local Colorado wines may spark the creative flow, but it is safer after skiing, not with breakfast.
If your body and mind crave a genuinely hearty American breakfast head to the ultra casual Poppycock’s (665 E. Cooper Ave). Their eggs, homemade sausage patties, country pistachio sausage, and oatmeal buttermilk pancakes have been satisfying big eaters since 1971.
For the late birds, the breakfast burrito at Big Wrap (520 E. Durant Ave. Closed on Sunday) can fill the energy gap at any time after 10am. The giant, mouthwatering, and wholesome wraps also make for a quick lunch. The meaty ‘Wrapzilla‘, vegetarian friendly ‘What’s up doc?’, crispy tacos and the healthier “naked” wraps served without the tortilla as a salad in a bowl, offer something for everyone.

Aspen dining at its best

The conquest for the most popular dining room in town is tight. Matsuhisa (303 E. Main Street), one of the directly operated Japanese-Peruvian (nikkei) restaurants by the world-famous chef Nobu Matsuhisa, still attracts most of the high-rolling foodies and top quality fish lovers. Located downstairs in a charming pale green wooden house the kitchen is headed by Matsuhisa trained chef Nobuko Kang. The “new style” sahimis are exquisite. Another local Asian favourite with a hip vibe, a sushi bar and modern pan-Asian dishes is Kenichi (533 E.Hopkins Avenue). Aspen dining is very diverse, so one rarely gets bored of one type of cuisine there.
Perhaps the most difficult reservation in town remains after a quarter century in operation at Piñons (105 S. Mill Street). The restaurant allures through its sophisticated old world ambiance updated by an artful modern zeal. This veteran of Aspen serves traditional American cuisine featuring mainly local ingredients. Lauded as the best restaurant in town its chef and owner Rob Mobilian takes pride in his prime steak, the espresso seared buffalo tenderloin or Colorado raised herb roosted lamb as well as the trout.
L’Hostaria (620 E. Hyman Avenue) operated by Italy-bred co-owner Tiziano is best for an Italian dinner. The plate-stretching Veal Milanese lives up to Tiziano’s past restaurant experience in Milan. Known for the best bar menus that will not break the bank, it is always busy, although I find the food at the restaurant better and also by serving a much larger portion of the celebrated veal dish the cost is negated if you are hungry. In a true Aspen spirit the restaurant is adorned with art. The wines were brought from Italy as well as California.
Local take on the classic French cuisine offers the trendy Cache Cache (205 S.Mill Street). On the menu feature the all-time bistro darlings like foie gras, escargots (snails in parsley butter), onion soup, mussels, steak and Colorado lamb. When possible the ingredients are locally sourced. The blue-hued bar by the entrance has remained a catchy hotspot for years. With over 5.000 bottles selection, the restaurant prides in one of the best wine lists in town. Having a tough time choosing one? Its Paris-born sommelier makes the process much more palatable.

For wine, The Little Nell Hotel (675 E. Durant Avenue) boosts with an award winning list so you can experience Aspen dining at its most flamboyant. Whether glaring at the sun on the deck or swishing comfortably inside one of the leather coated booths inside the Nell’s Ajax Tavern, you will salivate over the succulent double cheeseburger. Hardly resisted, their fragrant truffle fries tease the skiers’ noses as they line up at the bottom of the pompously named Silver Queen gondola at the bottom of the Aspen Mountain.
Taking this gondola all the way up drops you at The Sundeck. The highly popular self-service cafeteria also hosts exciting full moon dinners and daily feeds hundreds of hungry skiers. The views from the window seats and from outdoor deck transport you into a natural wonderland. A morning yoga session for the early birds is free for all who make it up there on time.
During the winter, ski a few runs down to Bonnie’s (above lift 3 of the Ajax Express), a great option for high quality mountain food devotees. Must try is the apple strudel, but also the white bean chilli or the breakfast pancakes, that motivate even some lazier skiers to get up early and board the gondola.

Beyond Aspen dining, the Cloud 9 Alpine Bistro is the best dining spot in the nearby Highlands. The sprawling mountain range is about a 10 minute car ride from Aspen. Cloud 9 is the most Alpine style sit down chalet with a charming, yet vibrant atmosphere. Every Thursday evening a snow cat picks up pre-booked guests for a decadent dinner of fondue and raclette inside.
Depending on the season, pick snowshoes, cross-country skis or hiking boots and drive to Ashcroft. There, you can also rent any type of equipment and work yourself out to the most memorable dining spot in the region at the wooden chalet of Pine Creek Cookhouse (12500 Castle Creek Road). The Nordic ski trails are frequently groomed so you will have to purchase a day or a half-day pass to take the run along the river that rewards with a pristine natural scenery. If you get too tired or had too much wine at lunch, you can take a ride back on a fairy horse carriage. The later, is surely more fun for kids.

Back in Aspen and off the piste is another excellent local eatery with a distinct character. The White House Tavern (302 E. Hopkins Avenue) inside the historic Carpenter Gothic white house from 1883 is one of the oldest buildings in Aspen. No reservations, who comes first grabs any available table. Feast on genuine gourmet salads, all in-house made burgers and sandwiches. The fish and with roasted prime rib filled French dip sandwiches are both generous treats for active foodies. If drinking alcohol, do not forget an ID. In the US whether you are 20 or 50 the law requires a proof of age before any liquor is poured into your glass.
Aspen can be a hedonist’s paradise, yet there is more to indulge in than just food and drinks. Check the arts, natural walks, the frequent intellectually stimulating conferences and more in my TRAVEL feature.

ASPEN: Colorado mecca for the arts, outdoors and the intellect

Skiing down the ghastly expert black slopes of Aspen’s Ajax mountain on fresh powder snow day feels like flying downhill. A fearless, free but for others a hair-rising sensation, that many skiers long for.
The superb snow quality means that skiing in Colorado is more often an exciting off-piste adventure, than sliding elegantly down the sleek groomed tracks. Watching the bold snowboarders, skiers and snowmobile freestylers leaping and somersaulting high in the sky, when competing in the notorious XGames on Buttermilk Mountain, draws awes in the spectators faces. While hiking or mountain biking up and down the tree spiked peaks rises one’s adrenalin during the snow-free months (late April-early November).

There is always something entertaining to do in Aspen and it does not need to be just fraternal to the outdoor activities. The sport ‘anti-ficionados’ can savor culinary delicacies at the Grand Tasting tent of the Food and Wine Classics in June, admire the abundant art galleries and the controversial, but gorgeously designed Aspen Art Museum or frequent one of the bountiful music venues in town. Classical music fans should arrive for the summer-long Aspen Music Festival.
In a place where art, food, science, sports, wine and even fly-fishing thrive, the intellectual domain gets also plenty of attention. During the weeklong Aspen Ideas Festival at the end of June, multiple disciplines from culture and economy to environment and philosophy, pinnacle in heated panel debates organised by the Aspen Institute. Yet another summer attraction pulling thousands of visitors to the thin air of Aspen.

The town clings to the foothill of the Aspen peak belonging to the Rocky mountains. The indigenous local Indians called the area “The Shining Mountains” for the silver deposits once found there. After the silver was all mined, the town was lucky not to end up as one of theghost cities scattered throughout by the mining-hyped Colorado. Sprouting through its identity crisis, Aspen reinvented itself in the ski mania of the 1930s. Ever since its seclusion has been attracting the healthy lifestyle seekers from hollywood divas, bestselling writers, the tax conscious Californians and contemporary tabloid regulars. With the cream of society flowing into Aspen, the birth of exclusive members clubs was just a natural evolution. The Caribou Club (411 East Hopkins Avenue) opened it’s doors in 1989 as the Aspen’s first private members-only club. Founded by Harley Baldwin, the space hosts a classy restaurant, a popular bar and a nightclub. A quirky nugget is that everyone is obliged to check their coat upon entry. Very old school, indeed. Baldwin also owns a contemporary american art gallery (209 S. Galena Street) bearing his name.

The dynamic town hums with galleries. One of the last still artist-run studio cum exposition space is the Christopher Martin Gallery (525 E. Cooper Avenue). The world’s top art is a beacon of the Maximilian Gallery (602 E. Cooper Avenue). There, secluded inconspicuously at the back, hide exquisite treasures from the European masters of the Chagall, Picasso and Matisse fame. The bright main room showcases contemporary American and British art catering for the Anish Kappor and Damien Hirst collectors and fans. Its owner Albert Sanford brings his 35-year career in art dealership under this by precious pieces adorned roof. Emerging American art is showcased at the Gallery 212. If you crave more and for best orientation in the Aspen’s crowded art scene pick up the ‘Aspen Gallery Guide’ or ‘Art in Aspen’ brochures inside one of the popular galleries.
The local dinner scene is highly competitive. American, Mexican, Italian, Japanese, vegetarian, organic, raw, casual or fancy, name it and you will eat it. It is both easy to indulge but also stay healthy in Aspen.
The beauty of Aspen dwells not only in its nature, vibrant gastronomy and cultural diversity, but also in the highly invested personal involvement of its residents. Some own and work at their restaurants (L’Hostaria), others run their hotels and the rest travels the world while selecting the lovable art pieces for their gallery.

The Residence Hotel (305 S. Galena Street) has perhaps the most distinctive and unrestricted owner’s touch. Terry Butler, a former performance artist and an avid traveller, set up her flamboyant eight room boutique hotel in 1986. Living on the premises, she picks up the phone while taking reservations, books your dinner, a ski instructor, concert tickets, and more. The townhouse hotel is equipped with her own antiques, luxurious Ralph Lauren bed linens, real wood-fired fireplaces, together creating an eclectic melange of styles. Some rooms even have a kitchen, generally welcomed by families and budding chefs. Many celebrities seeking privacy and luxury stayed here.
The recently revamped historic Jerome Hotel (330 E. Main Street) is the social beacon of Aspen. Have a drink at the time-tested, Colorado authentic J-Bar or at the dimly lit and cosy Living Room lounge. The lounge entertains with a live music on Tuesdays and Thursdays and has become since its re-opening the hottest drink spot in town. Since 1889, the red brick building has remained one of the main landmarks alongside the Wheeler Opera House.

Another luxurious,but more family-friendly five star retreat is St. Regis. Its sprawling spa boosts with fancy oxygen rooms making the high elevation more pleasant for the newly arrived visitors. The Chefs Club organised by the US Food&Wine magazine features emerging new American chefs worth sampling out.
As the only ski-in-ski-out hotel in Aspen, The Little Nell Hotel (675 E. Durant Avenue) is still the most popular lodging in town, and has to be booked months in advance.The amenities include a wide array of privileges and services including a highly effective transport and entry to the coveted Caribou members club. The rooms have been modernised, but still offer the cosy feel and gas fire places, that draw its loyal guests back every year. The lounge bar, the gastronomic restaurant, a casual tavern as well as the very Americana sports bar are the volcano of local activities.
For live music the JAS Club downstairs rings with piano and sultry voices of the jazz singers regularly performing here. More youthful, but still attracting more of the local, healthy-spirited, mature generation, are the rock, punk, hip hop and any style that rocks your booties concerts at the down-to-earth Belly Up.
Shopping in Aspen is a high rolling pastime. Next to the American styled Ralph Lauren, haute Dior or a cashmere clad Italian outfits by Loro Piana, there are also many unique local brands selling high quality goods often winning over the glitzy international sartorial race. In a true Colorado vibe is Kemo Sabe (434 E. Cooper Avenue) offering fringed leather pieces, cowboy/girl hats, boots and belts. Locally designed jewellery, cashmere sweaters as well as the ‘uber‘ cool sunglasses by biking lifestyle inspired US brand Chrome Hearts catch your eye at the eclectic luxurious design boutique Silver Threads (308 Galena St).

Aspen is a popular residential area for all those who can afford its lofty lifestyle. Original mountain style home decoration shops are dusted all over the town catering to the distinct styles of the mainly affluent locals. The current and past residents like Jack Nicholson, Cher, Goldie Hawn, and number of billionaires created a stable local market for all this luxury.
For a more practical shopping, Aspen’s Hunter Street is the best for ski wear. For a chic slope style and ski rentals head to the newly extended, husband and wife owned, Performance Ski (408 S Hunter St). You will find everything ski related high up to glitzy Fendi suites and the fruist of the owners’ collaboration on the relaunch of the ski apparel by Authier, a centenary Italian ski manufacturer and clothing company. Next door is Miller Sports, a smaller outlet focused on the trendy American line Toni Sailer and other cutting edge ski wear brands. The former Austrian olympic skiing family owns the luxurious Gorsuch. The classy store under the Silver Queen gondola station dresses you up in cashmere for apres-ski, fashionable German Bogner suits for the slopes, rents out boots and has a wide-choice of ski equipment and house decorations from candles to furniture.
Whether your pockets are full or half empty Aspen has something for almost every budget, taste and age. The pristine nature lovers will be impressed and charmed by its mundane abundance. Just watch the forecast as the small local airport is not always accessible, when a snow storm strikes the town. This, on the other hand, is for the skiers welcoming news.

American plant-based Cuisine by Tal Ronen, Matthew Kenney and Tim Andriola

Now trendy the American plant-based cuisine is enjoyed beyond vegans. The chefs Tal Ronen, Matthew Kenney and Tim Andriola showed in Miami its creative appeal.
Kenney’s groundbreaking haute-cuisine approach to healthful dining is sowing revolutionary ideas in America’s oversized, burger and fast-food fuelled population. In need for a profound change, the American plant-based cuisine comes as a rescue to balance the US diets. Unlike the three Michelin stared French chef Michel Guérard, who cleaned up substantially the saturated fat and carb-based traditional French cuisine, Kenney employs raw organic herbivore ingredients in his kitchen and creates delicious, but much smaller plates than is usual in America. His canapés of raw Jicama Tacos, Pistachio Guacamole, Pickled jalapeño, Radish, Caper-Macadamia Butter on a Seaweed Toast were a catwalk of his light-headed edible collection.

Perhaps the most popular dish on the tasting menu served later, the raw Heirloom Tomato Lasagna layered with Macadamia Ricotta, Pistachio Pesto and Spicy Marinara sauce was much more substantial and satisfying. Still, cholesterol free since nuts were used to make the remarkable “ricotta” and nutrient-dense from all the colourful vegetables used instead of the traditional sheets of pasta. These lasagna are also a permanent feature in his restaurants in LA and Miami.

Tal Ronen bridged a gap in the culinary market when he opened the first upscale, smart-casual vegan restaurant on the LA’s trendy Melrose street. Crossroads indeed crossed the zebra between the increasingly popular hippie vegan cafes and the more dressy restaurants. The memories of this journey were merged together in his culinary creations. His vegan cuisine served in the evenings at his Melrose flagship looks and tastes more like the typical omnivore’s, yet he smartly substituted all animal produce with grains, mushrooms, spices and plants with similar taste profiles. He contributed only with one dish to the tasting menu, but the rich Porcini-crusted Eggplant with Caramelised Onions, Celery Salad and deep velvety red Rossini Sauce, represented his bold-flavours-laid approach to vegan cooking. His dishes tend to be more comforting, season-driven and in many you would be fooled into thinking, that there must be some animal or cheese in it. Tal Ronen is the master magician of meatless-eating in the American plant-based cuisine.

Tim Andriola, has only recently adopted the vegie-centric philosophy into his cooking. The three chefs dinner was organised at his new Basil Park restaurant, neighbour to his classic Italian trattoria, where he uses meat and cheese as is typical for Italian cuisine. He opened this new healthier venture last year after his wife fed him with plant-fuelled inspiration.

The chefs gathered in its high-tech, by dehydrators and powerful blenders equipped open kitchen, creating a four-course vegan dinner accompanied by California wines and tapas. The reception was served outside, which on the unusually windy and for Miami chilly evening was not a happy start, but the gourmet small bites uplifted our cold souls. Andriola’s staff served his Mediterranean Pizzettas with Marinated Mushrooms, Arugula Pesto and Pine Nuts, surely adapted from his original Italian cooking style.

He also masterminded the lightest, first course of Chioggia Beet Carpaccio with Wild Greens, Golden Raisins and Cumin Crisps. The final dessert was also in his hands. In spite of our full bellies, there were not many of us who resisted his addictive sweet treat with an erotic sub tone – the Raw Chocolate Pate with Roasted Marcona Almonds and Pomegranate Sorbet. Chocolate being an aphrodisiac of the Aztecs, while pomegranate is seen as the symbol of fertility in the Mediterranean cultures, we were all seduced.
This good-for-you gastronomic feast respecting nature and your health, was further fuelled with wines to uplift our already angelic spirits. First a crisp and deep white Ferrari Carano Fume Blanc 2013 was poured, and later red Merlot 2011 from Rodney Strong, both from Sonoma, followed. With its fruity character it was a perfect match to the rich chocolate.

There were plenty of dinners, lunches and other indulgent culinary and wine experiences during the four days of the annual South Beach Wine & Food Festival in Miami. While diversity made it more fun for the attendees, the future of food seemed to point the arrow towards natural influences, with both sustainability and health sawing the most fertile seeds of growth. Gourmet vegan cooking has been polished by decades spanning know-how of combining flavours, that now entice even the non-vegans to eat more heart and animal friendly food when dining out. At the moment, not just in the US, but also plenty of chefs in Europe, South America and slowly in Asia, are being inspired by these revolutionary gourmet thought-leaders bringing taste back close to the nature with their plant-focused restaurants. The American plant-based cuisine is now affirmed its position on the restaurant by cuisine menus of major food guides.

Los Angeles: the city of staring surprises

Los Angeles, CALIFORNIA, is often nicknamed the “entertainment capital of the world”. Hollywood runs through the veins of this expansive city. Yet, its eccentricities lie far beyond the whims of the movie stars.

Some of its boho neighbourhoods such as the trendy Venice and Hollywood are the magnets for the grungy, tatooed, perhaps slightly crazy, but also creative, happy and relaxed locals.
The overwhelmingly casual and cultures-blending food scene is as exciting as the sightings of celebrities. One can choose from the upbeat trendy food trucks moving around town, ethnic casual eateries, local gastronomic innovators and rising US chef stars like Ludo Lebfebre, who have made LA their home. There are plenty of restaurants to indulge in as well as easy to rejuvenate at one of the LA’s vegan, raw, organic, macrobiotic, and whatever is the newest celebrity diet trend, LA is the testing ground for such health focused fashions and it does it very well and generally very tasty.

The striking contrasts of the sprawling metropolis are best explored by car. Whether you show off in a convertible Ferrari rented in Beverly Hills or rent a pick-up truck to fit your surfboard for a truly American style, the multi-line roads, sunny days, dry desert mountains and wild ocean vistas, invite for a spectacular ride.
From Hollywood, cross the Hollywood Hills, and visit the Universal Studios with their real film and TV show sets. The movie fans will enjoy in particular the Studio Tour and Special Effects Stage. For open-air concerts between June and September head to the iconic Hollywood Bowl (230 N. Highland Ave). Bring your own picnic including wine, and listen to the music stars of the greatest merit or the LA Philharmonic Orchestra.

ART HAVEN

LA has much more to offer than glitzy entertainment. Hancock Park is an archeological site of the La Brea Tar Pits (open daily; free entry), a working excavation of the bones and tusks of Ice-age creatures.
In the same location is LACMA (Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 5905 Wilshire Blvd.; Closed on Wednesdays). The best art venue in town featuring great modern and American art, and a Japanese Pavilion just next to an outdoor sculpture garden with bronze Rodin’s works. It might sound awkward, but the museum’s unique “Levitated Mass”, a giant 340 ton megalith atop a walk-though pass is its most photographed object. Check lacma.org for free daily tours, talks and regular Friday jazz concerts, alongside film premieres and conversations with thought-provoking people of various expertise. Around the LACMA, there are always some food trucks, a great lunch or snack take-out.

The futuristic Disney Concert Hall designed by the LA-based Frank Gehry is the venue for the LA Philharmonic’s dance and opera performances.
The world-famous Getty Museum designed by the acclaimed American architect Richard Meier. Together with its sister, the Getty Villa in Santa Monica hills, they offer stunning views across LA (free entry; parking $15). The latter has for some a more interesting exhibition of ancient Etruscan, Roman and Greek art and objects. The building is a replica of a first century Roman villa built on request by the oil tycoon J. P. Getty. Throughout September, classical theatre productions in the outdoor amphitheatre invite for a visit.

LUXURIOUS SHOW OFF IN BEVERLY HILLS

Beverly Hills is not to be missed on your trip. Whether you just stroll around admiring the eye-dropping mansions of famous stars, shop on Rodeo Drive at its luxurious boutiques with a soldier-like lines of palms and clean pavements, you should also savour some local snacks.
For more upbeat shopping head to Melrose Avenue (don’t miss the iconic Fred Segal concept store) and Robertson Street, where various home design stores mix up with local quirky pop-ups, vintage jewellery and clothing. In this West Hollywood vicinity it is worth setting your eyes on Sielian’s Vintage Apparel (9013 Melrose Ave) or Craig Evan Small (731 N. La Cienega Blvd.), a highly respected dealer of jewellery, watches from all eras. These are the the best places to buy many of the red carpet original pieces.

OCEAN PANORAMAS

If you want to stay by the ocean and explore more of the upbeat areas around Venice and Santa Monica, then stay at Shutters on the Beach hotel (One Pico Boulevard, Santa Monica, Tel. +1 310 458 0030 Doubles from $495).
With its residential feel, the building recalls the 1920s and 30s architecture of the old America’s beach resorts. The front of the hotel opens to the Santa Monica Beach miles of promenade. The rooms were recently refurbished to give them a fresh look matching better with their Pacific views. Have a drink at The Living Room bar, one of the most sought-after spots in Los Angeles for cocktail at sunset. The elegant and fresh rooftop bar and contemporary restaurant of the recently opened Huntington Hotel became the hotspot for the sunset vistas seeking fashionable crowds. The aptly named Penthause eagles from Malibu, through the Pacific Ocean’s waves of Santa Monica and far behind to the Hollywood hills.

Get a car and be ready for lots of driving as the city is pulled tremedously like a chewing gum. This is also part of its attractiveness though. Zigzag along the hills on the narrow Mullholland Drive, formed by the past earthquakes. As a gorgeous natural spectacle of the desert back-country merges into the lush bushes near the ocean, you will forget about all the traffic down in the town.

LA’s ocean-dessert climate is as much pleasant as it can be deceiving. Do not forget to pack plenty of jackets and long pants for the cool evenings. Your bermudas would better fit holidays in Hawaii, but not the LA’s chameleon temperatures.

E.Baldi guarding a family heritage of authentic Italian flare in the City of Angels

The Baldi family restaurants have been appealing to the authentic Italian cuisine fans in Los Angeles for years. It started with the late Giorgio Baldi, the father of Edoardo, who opened a hidden gem near the hills of Santa Monica. Just far enough from the busy ocean promenade embellished by majestic palms and the blue horizon of the Pacific, G. Baldi was a secret beloved by celebrities. While the old restaurant remains open, now the more popular E.Baldi in Beverly Hills continues the family’s Italian legacy.

Giorgio Baldi’s interior is sparely lit. The old family restaurant has an aura evoking a whiff of cigar smoke in dark library. Yet, unlike the monastic stillness of libraries, there is a lively human buzz waving through the room. The tweeting discussions at many tables bring this very intimate place to life, but somehow still shield off the romance of the couples sitting on the outskirts. The outdoor tables are shaded from the noisy street and unwelcome spectators by lush bushes. The waiters smile and advise on the menu and wines with such a prowess that it is impossible not to succumb to their charms. E.Baldi in Beverly Hills was opened by Edoardo years later after he worked at the kitchen of his now deceased father at G. Baldi, has a slightly more modern feel. Recently the kitchen wall was replaced by a glass window to lure the eyes of the customers and to further strengthen the connection between the food and its consumption.

The food, in chef Edoardo Baldi words, is “Nothing fancy, no dishes with too many ingredients and flavors.” And that is how a great Italian food, that most of us love in Europe, is supposed to be. Excellent in its simplicity, high quality ingredients and as fresh as possible. The Baldi’s Italian cuisine borrows from the Tuscan tradition, with a pinch of Emillia Romagna and their take on the evergreens such as the Veal Milanese from Lombardia. The breaded thinly pounded veal cutlet on the bone (cotoletta), ubiquitous on the traditional menus at osterias and more flamboyant ristorantes in Milan, makes the hearts of some diners bouncing like kangaroos racing in the bush. Edoardo uses lamb instead of the traditional veal at G. Baldi for his not greasy breaded chops à la Milanese. At E.Baldi, the Veal cutlet alla pizzaiola with tomato, capers and oregano, is lighter, not breaded.

From the starters there are many personal favourites. Our local friends cannot go without the Crostino of polenta with porcini sauce, which truly is amazing. The cornmeal polenta melts like an iceberg in a piercing desert sun and the porcini sauce adds some forest flavour freshened with green herbs. On a similar note are the Fried shiitake mushrooms with pecorino tartufato, aka truffled aged Italian sheep’s cheese. The mushrooms are sliced to leisurely chunks and not oily despite being fried.
If you are in the mood for something lighter, then the Sliced Artichokes with onions, sliced fennel and airy shavings of pecorino or the lean meaty Bresaola with homemade marinated artichoke hearts are both superb. Blended smoothly into a warm vegetable soup, the Passato of broccoli, leeks, topped with porcini is perfect for the typical cool LA night out. Nourishing and healthy, perfect if you need comforting belly pampering. Many regulars include models and figure-conscious hollywood sirens must be grateful for these simple, healthy and compared to most American restaurants small plate options.

Still, you can relish in a filling indulgence with Panzerotti, a baked crêpe filled with creamy ricotta, green chard, parmesan and porcini mushrooms. I love the wood oven baked pizza and the homemade pasta such as Tortelli of butternut squash, ricotta, amaretto, crispy sage & browned butter, that always stir in a happy rush of serotonin.
Seasonal local specials such as the excellent spiny lobster (Aragosta locale) from Santa Barbara served with cannelini beans and bell pepper with sweet chopped cherry tomato sauce made my dinner outstanding there in February.
Dolci treats like the Tortino al cioccolato with creamy chocolate Grand Marnier heart, a dense whip of chantilly cream and chocolate ice cream or a scoop of hazelnut, stracciatella chocolate chip, vanilla, or milk gelato, are all made by Edoardo himself.
The wine list at E.Baldi is mostly Italian with some California options for the locavore fans. We usually stick to Italy with Italian food. A bottle of red Barbera d’Asti Barbera, Ai Suma, Braida 2003 for $167.00 was in the upper price bucket, but it rewarded our palates with fresh, juicy, yet complex flavours accompanying the lamb Milanese and lobster mains with its lovely acidity well.

At most Italian restaurants tea selection is limited, not at E.Baldi though. LA, the city of some obsessively healthy people, caters generously to its organic crowds. The teas from Colorado-based Two leaves are organic. You can also have an espresso or a frothy cappuccino, the later enjoyed in Italy with breakfast, but in America no raised eyebrows will shun your choice.
Since 2011, when Giorgio Baldi died, the kitchen in Santa Monica has been headed by experienced chefs who cooked alongside Giorgio for almost 25 years since its opening, so the quality should remain. Edoardo carries his own family legacy at his restaurant E.Baldi in Beverly Hills with an impressive vigour and humbleness.
Visits: March 2011; spring and summer 2013, July 2014, February 2015, September 2017
Price level: High (appetizers above $10 and main courses in the $20 to $40 level). It is justified though by the high-quality ingredients and cooking mastery.
E.Baldi: +1 310 24 82 633; Giorgio Baldi: +1 310 57 31 660
E.Baldi: 375 North Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
G.Baldi: 114 W. Channel Rd, Santa Monica, CA 90402
E.Baldi lunch 11:30am-3pm; dinner 6-10pm; closed Sun & Mon; G.Baldi closed on Mondays.

Estiatorio Milos: best Mediterranean fish in New York and Miami

Montreal, Canada is where the Greek adventure started for the Milos restaurant empire. Manhattan was the next destination after the Canadian success for the Milos’ owner Costas Spiliadis. Named after an island in the Aegean sea about half-way between Athens and Crete, Milos migrated into the power lunch of the influential in Midtown, New York. The luxurious Greek restaurant is synonymous to its dedication to quality, excellent service and simplicity. Milos has so far expanded to Miami Beach, Las Vegas, London and its culinary alma-matter, the Greek capital of Athens. Dress well and do not look at the bill, if you can.

Giant ancient amphoras used for millennia to store wine in the Mediterranean now call up the Greek connection at Milos in New York. The more contemporary look of Estiatorio Milos by Costas Spiliadis in Miami feels like flying on a cloud over the Greek shores. The freshness and friendly, mainly Greek staff reminded me of my recent trip to Athens and Halkidiki. It is remarkable that the high standard from its New York branch was transferred smoothly to its casual, bright Miami vibe. That is the reason why the latest opening in London shocked me. Everything from the staff’s attitude to the food was bland. The stratospheric prices cannot afford such a slip, since the abyss of connoisseurship is unforgiving.

In New York the atmosphere is lively and mainly business-oriented during the week, but more relaxed on weekends. The refreshing ambiance and comfortable seating transfer you far away from the urban starchiness to silky softness. Like an embrace of the Mediterranean. Ties, shirts and high-heeled polished ladies, next to families with leather jacket clad teenagers, Asian nouveau riche in sneakers, they all flood in to eat at Milos. The dress code was a natural evolution rooted in its business crowd – smart casual, but this is America, so if you can pay your bill anything goes.
On Miami Beach, the trendy buzz hives in the entire week and less serious than on Manhattan or London.
Finding the best ingredients has always been Milos’ main focus. You are eating nature at its best. No heavy sauces, nothing covering the quality of the fish, seafood and the crunchy vegetables. The ingredients simply shine. You must start with the MILOS SPECIAL. Ideal for sharing, the towering plate of breaded, thinly shaved aubergine and zucchini with lightly fried saganaki cheese centred around the voluptuous garlicky tzaziki. Not oily, just right. Their strained Greek yogurt dip is perfect and accompanies other vegetable plates such as the GRILLED ORGANIC BEETS.

MEDITERRANEAN OCTOPUS is charcoal broiled and sliced into thin, yet meaty slivers of joy. From the sea also try GRILLED CALAMARI stuffed with Cretan Anthotiro, feta, and manouri cheeses and chopped fresh mint. Served with fava beans and saffron, calling for a sip of an oaky, intense white wine or a juicy, smooth red in the style of Agyortiko. Grilled HOLLAND PEPPERS served with a generous pour of an olive oil vinaigrette and roasted garlic are also delicious.
From the seafood bar pick seasonal grilled Carabineros, clams, boiled Florida snow crab or raw Maine sea urchin (very light tasting in contrast to the Santa Barbara caramel-rich uni). I prefer dining at Milos in larger groups like in Greece so one can sample a bit of everything with no leftovers.

The main course is a straight catch. Walk to the ice-covered “market counter” where you choose from the large variety of fish from the shores of Greece, Spain and Portugal. Depending on the season, Lavraki, Balada, Pagri, St-Pierre, Dover Sole, Solettes, Lithrini, Red Snapper, Black Sea Bass, Tsipoura, and other less-known sustainably line-caught fish is grilled or baked in a salt crust. Perfectly prepared, the fish is served with a drizzle of olive oil, capers and lemon, dot. As an extra side, the TOMATO SALAD of vine-ripened tomatoes, onions, peppers, cucumber and genuine, moist feta cheese. Perfectly boiled GREEN ASPARAGUS with sweet white onion can also healthily accompany the fish. There is meat like lamb on the menu, but from my point of view it would be a wasted opportunity not to order fish at the best, simple seafood serving restaurant in Manhattan. For more gastronomic, three Michelin star fish creations head to Le Bernardin nearby.

Desserts like Yogurt With Honey sound more like a breakfast, yet the dense strained Greek yogurt is a great digestive with a big dinner. The active enzymes in the artisan yogurt work their magic, while the antibacterial thyme honey from Kythera adds sweet, satisfying quality of a dessert. Also available as a take-away alongside some salads and dips from the nearby Milos Cafe. The real, full-fat (around 10%) and creamy yoghurt is an ocean apart from the commercial “Greek yoghurts” in American supermarkets. To sin, succumb to sweet temptations with Karidopita, the walnut-based cake served with ice-cream. The Baklava from Northern Greece is influenced by its neighbour Turkey. The phyllo pastry wraps around ground nuts (pistachios or walnuts) with a generous pinch of cinnamon, sweetened only with honey. A plate of Fresh seasonal fruit is the most Mediterranean choice from the dessert menu at Milos.
The wine list is very good. Greek wines are interesting. The whites are most fit for the food at Milos. From the Greek family, the Chardonnay by Domaine Gerovassilliou 2009 is a full bodied, oaky style, while Domaine Katsaros style is more crisp. A blend of Gerovassilliou’s characterful Malagousia and Assyrtico is an ideal middle ground, providing fruit but also a floral freshness. The Vidiano-Plyto blend from Crete is bright, perfect with the raw seafood and vegetable starters.
I dined at Milos in New York for over a decade, between 2009-2018, and the quality has always remained superb.
Lunch and dinner daily.
125 West 55th Street, New York, NY 10019
South Beach Miami: 730 1st St, Miami Beach, FL 33139
New York: +1 212 245 7400; Miami: + 1 305 604 6800

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