Switzerland Archives - Page 2 of 2

CLOSED Stüvas at Chesa Rosatsch: Slow Food in the Engadine

Mindful eaters with integrity applaud to the transparent channels of locally sourced food at Stüvas at Chesa Rosatsch in Celerina. Open only for dinner, the Slow Food labeled restaurant highlights producers from within the Grisons canton, but also the best from all Switzerland (like the “pope of Swiss cheese”, sustainable farmers, butchers, and growers) and, minutes away just across the border from Italy. Cooked delicious, the meal inside the hand-painted Engadine house is a must when you are luxuriating in St Moritz. For there is nothing of its kind in the caviar, seafood and foie gras taunting resort.

Food with its story told in full length at Stüvas

Every product served in the Stüvas’ cosy Swiss-pine-clad rooms has its own story to tell, even the pottery from Verena Jordan-Cullati in Guarda. Chesa Rosatsch is not just a cosy boutique Swiss hotel, its gourmet diversity is directed by chef Jan Gasser. In three restaurant concepts under one roof, his team uplifts and preserves the bounty of the Engadine and its surrounding lakes, mountains, pastures and valleys (Grisons and Ticino of Switzerland or nearby Valtellina in Italy). Preserved raspberries and quinces are used in desserts, while homemade orange jam accompanies the cheese plate.
Artisan producers provide the antibiotic, pesticide and added hormone-free ingredients that after the summer and fall ripeness were preserved into the winter delicacies. Bottled and picked using traditional methods, berries pop up in desserts, vegetable chutneys and condiments accompany the savoury plates. A springy, fresh bread arrives with an assortment of grass-grazed butters, salt, and seasoned olive oil. Then an off-the-menu amouse-bouche, like the local salmon tartare with fried onion strips and mustard mayo we had, tunes you into the chef’s not so simple, but rather inventive culinary gait.

Dining at Stüvas is authentic yet contemporary in its plating and portion sizes. With an eye on the future of food, it’s practical having small or ‘normal’, larger plate option for most dishes. Mindful of the developed world’s food waste epidemic, you can better judge which servings you will be able to consume. Using the animal in its entirety goes naturally without explicitly stating it on the story telling format of the menu. My husband loved every morsel of the Duck from Mörschwil in three turns – braised, sautéed and in a leg roulade served with an orange-semolina strudel, parsnip, broccoli and the bird’s jus.

We also relished in reading about some of the producers. Having their photo and a gist of their purpose in print enlightened and like a feather chiselled our sustainably-minded attitude towards food. Still, there was plenty of animal protein, so including more plants would make it more ecologically sustainable. I asked for an extra side dish of winter vegetables and the warm bowl (add CHF 25) was so wonderful that I would suggest the chef including a seasonal vegetable starter permanently in the menu. Saffron at Stüvas grown and picked by Silvia Bosshard can highlight some of the potential, Buddhist monk-friendly plates.
The Salmon from Misox was of superb quality. A vegetable aspic on a toast, cheese crisp and a scoop of fruity ice-cream introduced sophistication of a Michelin star quality to the Lachs. Also in the starters, the smoked Albula trout from Cordo Simone bred in an own spring allows raising the fish without any antibiotics in Filisur in Grisons.
I enjoyed the smaller Applewine risotto with mushrooms from Kerns. Sepp Häcki and his family developed their own nutritive substrate for fungi and substrate machine that sustainably turns over two tons of mushrooms per week. they are world-famous in the fungi circles. Served with spinach, organic mustard cream, it was large enough for a main course if you have three to four plates as we usually do at restaurants.

Swiss ingredients at their best

Next, my Pike-perch filet from Ticino was impeccably grilled with its skin on. The Tessiner Zander was plated with a Potato-beans cassoulet, an eggplant caviar and the now so popular fermented black garlic that is easier to digest.
The majority of the alpine-dried meat at Chesa Rosatsch comes from Hatecke, an elite butcher from nearby Scuol who now also has a store in Zurich. Beyond Stüvas taste his skills in a plate of Grison tapas or just get the triangular salzis at the Uondas Grill.
Being in the Alps yodels cheese, so keep your ears open at Stüvas since the options change regularly. Che Chaschöl goat cheese. Raw Swiss mountain cheese sourced from micro producers by Rolf Beeler, the local “cheese pope of Switzerland”. Jumi, set near the Emmental valley by Bern won the “Best Swiss Start-Up” at the Swiss Economic Forum in 2012. The Swiss founders Jürg Wyss and Mike Glauser come from a family of Swiss farmers and cheese makers. Make cheese with non-industrial methods expanded their business beyond Switzerland to London.

Check the Europe-centric wine list online. While DRC, top Bordeaux, French and Spanish icons star, we went for a Swiss red Pinot Noir «H» by Christian Hermann. Hermann joins Donatsch, Gantenbein, Irene Grünenfelder of Weingut Eichholz, Thomas Studach and Obrecht as the premium Swiss winemaker worth exploring. These bottles come at CHF 100-300 for some so not cheap, but better than an average Burgundy. Grappa and Marc – a spirit from grapes from various producers complete the alcoholic menu. Other beverages like their exclusive light lager brewed nearby in Pontresina, Swiss soft drink Rivella, apple and other juices from nearby orchards include the entire family in. Even if you do not order coffee or herbal tisane, small sweet petits fours land on the white table cloth to finish the superb meal at Stüvas in a gourmet tone.

The most traditional Swiss dining at Chesa Rosatsch, Heimatli is another Swiss food concept by the same chef, and the only venue we have not tried yet. Meat fondue and other mountain specialities star the menu.
Swiss mountain food cannot get much better than this. I cannot name any other restaurant or food concept in Switzerland offering such a consistent pleasure and quality sourced as much locally as possible. We will be back, summer or winter, it is open for most of the year.
Stüvas 6:45 pm – 11 pm, Tuesday closed.

Via S. Gian 7, 7505 Celerina/Schlarigna

+41 81 837 01 01

Ecco on Snow: high altitude gastronomy floating by St Moritz

Ecco on Snow is now the best restaurant in the reach of St Moritz. Shaped by talent and precise sensibility to natural ingredients, chef Rolf Fliegauf and his team create an almost magical gastronomic moment. Well deserved two Michelin stars.

Ecco in two seasons

The 34 years-old chef at Ecco has developed a fine palate translating the intensely balanced flavours brilliantly in his contemporary European odyssey. The Swabian German, Rolf Fliegauf deserves the two Michelin “macaroons” for each, Ecco on Snow in the hamlet of Champfèr next to St Moritz for his winter craft, and his genie with the summer ingredients in Ascona, an ochre old town touching on the fairy Lago Maggiore dividing the Swiss-Italian border. With the flip of the seasons he personally cooks at both. Et Ecco, you get no flying chef of Ducasse and Robuchon type, but an honest participation of the chef.
modern dessert
As the Michelin precept guarantees, little extra nibbles will pop up throughout the long meal to keep your mouth entertained. A dry branch hands you bite-sized crispy chicken skin crackers with corn cream and dried egg yolk, a foie gras formed as a coin is laid on the overhead crystal chandelier reflecting glass artwork, and then a hands-on finishing act sparks up the passivity of just eating and conversing. The presentation entertains. With assorted scissors trim as much watercress as you like, let it nest on the warm ash bread served with a pinch of Maldon salt and a meringue of each – a lightly whipped smoked and buttermilk butters. This delectable gardening will keep you busy until the first course arrives. Since the chef’s favourite ingredients include “citrus fruits, dill and oysters” you taste them often from his menus.

The guardians of quality though are seasonal ingredients, carefully sourced and transformed into conceptiually similar plates. Arriving to the Ecco’s kitchen mostly from the coasts and mountains of Europe, the natural produce shines in his two flexible tasting menus. Fliegauf asserts that “in both menus the dishes are coordinated so that they match and harmonize“. Nevertheless, the chef allows for you to be the arbiter of taste so you can mix the dishes from both menus.
The Fine menu offers three, four or five choices. The two of us started with the light Breton edible crab, citrus fruit and avocado cream. A superb display of the love for citruses married in a perfect partnership of raw seafood and a rich fruit.
contemporary cuisine

The Delux menu expands to six, seven or eight courses, where their portions decrease with more courses. Another personal favourite of the chef, the gillardeau oyster, was originally paired with king mackerel and horseradish in a surprisingly not so fishy result. The optional (add 30 CHF) Prunier Paris caviar on side adds salty and contrasting texture, so is worth paying for. Each time I go for the creation with Norway lobster, recently served with the pumpkin raviolo and sea buckthorn. Spotless, cooked just right, tender and juicy, while enriched by the choice of accompaniments. The previous year the lobster was prepared with carrots and seaweed cracker, different but superb.
contemporary cuisine

If the menu features the Brüggli salmon trout then go for it. The flaky, soft river fish with shavings of radish in a smoked fish velouté was my second favorite dish right after the lobster. The previous year my fish course of choice was the Atlantic Turbot with Perigold truffle and Jerusalem artichoke, also perfectly embracing the European heritage.
Meat naturally occupies its spot in the mountain menu, yet less than you would expect, which is incresingly supported not just but many top chefs but also the diners seeking balanced dining out. Last year I went for a course with deer and my husband enjoyed the veal Tafelspitz, while his choice of the Luma pork with brussels sprouts and black pudding on a recent occassion confirmed the chef’s talent even with the ingredents that my husband rarely appreciates (pork).
Although it is not printed on the menus, vegetarian requests are always accommodated.

Before the desserts, try the selection from Swiss cheeses, usually including the Emmental as they are presented “a bit differently, showing a more modern way of a cheese plate“.
The sleek, delicate and modern form of cooking will not weigh on the fondue effect on your body, so put your trust into the multi-course tasting menus. The chef stands for a cuisine that is “light, accessible to anybody, aromatic and exiting when it comes to the combination of aromas.” The Fat Duck effect of his experience at this iconic British restaurant sparks from the surprise of some of the dishes, yet rustic meets haute cuisine in his culinary philosophy. His cuisine also incorporated slow food by all means – his veal stock takes 60 hours of preparation!
golden dining room

The organic aesthetic quality of the chef’s plating style and the tranquil setting of the restaurant underground in a golden cave reset your emotional state. Like in a spiritual moment, dining at Ecco on snow transports you into a fairy land, far from mundane concerns, but rich in awing experiences. The gold leaf on the walls was inherited from the previous restaurant, but it is so unique that the Giardino hotel, where Ecco is located decided to keep it.
The mother of all the Eccos in the Swiss Ascona recently gave birth to another child with the same genetic make-up and sourcing from the same producers. The Ecco Zurich opened in December 2015 at the Atlantis by Giardino hotel group. We are craving to dine at both when an opportunity to travel to there arises. The summer jazz festival in Ascona is surely a tempting invitation.
Two Michelin star Ecco restaurant St Moritz

Two Michelin star Ecco restaurant St Moritz

Swiss wine deserves attention

Ecco’s sommelier was one of those wine experts that persuade you to do something rather daring. Despite our past disappointments, we entrusted our wine palates into a pricy Swiss Pinot Noir. The Monolith 2012 by Obrecht was a turning point sparking our belief in the Swiss wine making excellency. Our love for Swiss Pinot was born with the first glass of this wine. The well-appointed wine list offers plenty of choices, yet each time we ordered the same bottle and vintage to be once again mesmerised by its shining brightness and savoury complexity. Like with the after movie credits that you rarely read, the finish was long lasting.
The chef confides: “First, we want to inspire ourselves and stay loyal to our own concept. I think that is way more important than trends or following trends“. The flare of his kitchen team and the quality of Fliegauf’s cooking confirm that he is on the right path.

✉ Hotel Giardino Mountain St. Moritz Via Maistra 3, CH-7512 Champfer

☏ +41 81 836 63 00

🕗 Opened only during the winter season: December – late March

Matsuhisa grows from Aspen, LA, Athens through St Moritz

Chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa is worldly known as Nobu, the legend of contemporary Japanese cooking blending Peruvian and other elements into his special sharing plates. Swiping the globe with his nikkei cuisine from New York, London, Dubai to Hong Kong, chef Matsuhisa most effectively blended his Japanese skills with the alluring ingredients that he found during his stint in Peru over 20 years ago.

Nobu’s partnership with the actor Robert De Niro and restaurateur Drew Nieporent gave birth to the international network of the chic Nobu restaurants. Nevertheless, his namesake Matsuhisa restaurants remain his most cherished babies, so he shows up often. I have repeatedly dined at Matsuhisa in Aspen, Los Angeles, Paris and St Moritz, and while the first two are the most Nobu style, the newest Paris location is by far the best. The main reason being that the executive chef Hideki Endo was given a free reign from Nobu Matsuhisa and creates sublime, Michelin stars deserving plates in the chicest atmosphere of the Royal Monceau hotel. Chef Hideki, originally from Hokkaido, has helmed the scenic Hong Kong Nobu for over a decade, and moved to Paris to open the by celebrities touted Matsuhisa Paris.

Traditional Japanese manners grace Nobu and his wife as either of them often greet the customers in the first ever Matsuhisa restaurant in Los Angeles. The local glam-set still frequents the causal restaurant after almost two decades in business. Whether you are a Hollywood star or just a devote fan of his cuisine, Nobu shares his humble smile and a gentle handshake as he strolls around.

His second branch in Aspen, as excellent and casual as his La La Land firstborn, was the last that strayed away from the overt commercialisation that swoop the intimate charm away from the Nobus, and his growing suite of Matsuhisa restaurants (Athens riviera, Mykonos, St. Moritz, Paris). Much larger than its LA base, Matsu in Aspen further accommodates two bars. One for casual eats upstairs and the other just by the entrance downstairs. In embracing the essential American flare, large Tv screens in the bar area lure in the football and cricket fans to virtually coach their teams. A spectacle in itself as you walk in. Like in an orchestra, these conductors with chopsticks instead of a baton indulge in a decadent meal. Some locals just pop in for a bottle of Asahi beer and a snack (like the crunchy crab tempura salad, the beef or fish tacos), yet the food’s quality would satisfy an Arab sheikh. Being the most fashionable and for almost two decades the most popular restaurant in Aspen, while keeping its informal allure, make Matsuhisa tirelessly attractive. In Aspen, young folks with sometimes ridiculously weird ski hats mingle with the mature, fur-adorned bejewelled ladies, older couples and families enjoy their meal, all naturally sinking into the buzzing atmosphere. Booking ahead is highly advised.

Food at Matsuhisa

Nobu is about his inventive dishes and not the classic simple sushi and maki cuts. His bold, creative and high taste-profile flatters to the salt and rich flavours accustomed American diners. In St Moritz, the food is more subdued and does not show the full spectrum of his special plates as the Aspen and LA Matsuhisa do. Also there his is creative cooking mastery and the accent on top quality fresh ingredients show off at his namesake US based restaurants most vibrantly. Like a rainbow, Nobu’s dishes cover the flavours and textures from delicate and light to deep, rich and intensely accented plates. It is wise to start light and move to the heavier or more seasoned dishes, so your taste buds detect the suppleness of the delicate fish and seafood creations such as the refreshing Peruvian style tiraditos (which Nobu learned when cooking in Lima), crab tacos or the new style yellowtail sashimi with jalapeños. The spaghetti-like shaved Hearts of palm salad with lobster and Nobu’s special savoury dry miso crumble is excellent to share at the beginning. You can buy this superb condiment at both restaurants, and use it at home over anything craving its umami flavour. The superb King crab tempura salad with red onions marinated in spicy vinaigrette is refreshingly touched up with coriander.

The superbly trained staff usually brings them in an appropriate sequence, which is essential for the enjoyment. Since the fish is marinated in an oil-based sauce with sesame most of the New style sashimis are moving towards the richer side, therefore it is better to get them after the simpler lime and lemon-based plates like Tomato ceviche or the seafood tiraditos. My favourite is the New style salmon sashimi. The fatty and smooth salmon goes hand in hand with the oily sauce drizzled with chopped green chives. The abalone, a rare type of sea shell, is always very expensive whether you order it in Japan, China or in Colorado. If you can afford to treat yourself to something very special, inquire whether the lucky day shipped some of these porcini textured sea wonders. Served broiled, they impress. Usually only in the US Matsuhisa.

Matsuhisa does wonders with mushrooms. At Nobu as well as at ‘Matsu’ I usually order the sizzling hot Mushroom tobanyaki, but in Aspen, I also like the unique warm Mushroom salad with lobster. These forest gems top up even the flavour and texture of the Maine lobster, but still this plate is a wonderful marriage between Western and Eastern ingredients. I highlighted my personal bests at ‘Matsu’, although I have eaten almost the entire menu a number of times and enjoyed most, so go for it.

From the Japanese sweets try the Shaved ice or the Mochi ice cream. These gooey, thin, dumpling-like rice flour buns filled with ice cream are homemade. You can select from multiple flavours. The green tea and vanilla never disappoint, but chocolate or li-chi may seduce too.
Drinks: The wine list at Aspen Matsuhisa has the widest selection of wines that go well with this style of food. To stay local at least with the wine, we usually go for a bold California Chardonnay. A refreshing dry white wine with a higher acidity like Riesling would be my top choice, but a lush white Bordeaux, Rhône’s Rousanne and Marsanne blend or a mineral slightly oaky California Chardonnay like from Aubert de Villaine’s Aubert (DRC winemaker) or Littorai suit to most of the fish and seafood Nobu dishes. Pinot Noir works well too. Williams Selyem are a great bet if you are willing to spend a couple hundred dollars. Their Chardonnay from the Heintz Vineyard (not to be mistaken for the Heitz Cellars in Napa Valley) ages gracefully so if you see an older vintage, try. In St Moritz, the impressive wine cellar is shared with the Badrutt’s Palace Hotel luxurious restaurants, and there are many great European wines on the list. Here, try the local impressive Pinot Noir Monolith by Obrecht, very savoury and not too fruity like most Swiss Pinots. In Paris French bottles impress, usually we go for white Alsace (Riesling Clos Ste Hune) and red Côte Rotie or Burgundy.

At the Los Angeles Matsuhisa the wine options are more limited so we often get a bottle of Kistler Chardonnay that is creamy, rich, yet balanced with a good acidity and a long, tremendous aftertaste. Beer or sake are popular choices and there is a very good selection from Japanese, American as well as European brews. Not in the mood for alcohol? The Nobu’s own Japanese green tea, which you can also buy, is very good and its youth-prolonging antioxidants refresh and relax at the same time. Magic, isn’t it?
I have dined at the Matsuhisa in LA regularly for over a decade and in winter Aspen each February. I am grateful for so many years of consistent pleasure there. Arigato! Sadly the same cannot be claimed about the Athens and St Moritz locations.

Hiltl: the first vegetarian restaurant in Europe

Hiltl has been serving vegetarian fare since the late nineteenth century in the historic centre of Zurich, yet most people find it surprising that the first vegetarian restaurant was opened in Switzerland. The Haus of Hiltl is reportedly also “the oldest, continuously open vegetarian restaurant of the world” and some of the planet’s brightest brains have dined there. In the new millenium their classic vegetarian menu has evolved, now including more vegan options (including ice cream!), organic milk, some cheese, seitan, tofu and eggs. Local and seasonal ingredients feature in the specials, and no GMOs or irradiation got close to any of their purchases. This transparent relationship with its customers and the option to have extra food supplemented to your main course free of charge always pleases the eaters.

Swiss vegetarian heritage: Exports that define, yet blind reputation

Milk chocolate and dishes like the raclette and fondue define the culinary Swiss exports. Most foodies would connect this small European nation with meat fondue, mountain-style sliced meat, rich meat stews, as well as other naughty treats like chocolate and cheese.
What many do not grasp though is that voluntarily abstaining from meat has had a strong following in Europe for over a century. Vegetarianism was promoted by the famous Zurich physician Maximilian Oskar Bircher-Benner on his clinic at Dolder, where the world elite was cured from maladies of their exuberant lifestyles. Perhaps it was the delicious Bircher muesli that inspired Albert Einstein, a Zurich native to become a vegetarian later in his exceptionally productive life. Hilt’s location is therefore not an outlier in this neutral field of the carnivorous world.

First vegetarian restaurant with a broad entertainment

Hiltl is a real “gasthaus“, a welcoming establishment catering to a wide variety of the guests’ needs. There is a buffet, where one can mix and match any dish in sync with the whims of one’s taste buds. For the more visual foodies, a neater a la carte menu served arranged on plates might be more appealing, while the cool bar offers nibbles and casual seats.
The Hiltl Club hosts regular music gigs, while the Cooking Studio teaches the future “vegetarian virtuoso” how to master meat-free food preparation at home. Take-away boxes and catering service are also Hiltl’s vices.
The dishes are inspired by Italian, Asian (mostly Indian) and traditional Swiss cuisines. Everything on the menu and on the bufet is signposted, including allergy-prone ingredients and other dietary requirements (vegan and gliten-free options are highlighted).
From the traditional menu staples the homemade Hiltl Tatare was my absolute favourite on all occassions I dined there. It became a hit ever since it had been introduced on the restaurant’s menu and you can also find it on the generous buffet offering. The bloody-red tartare is based on aubergines, beets, peppers, pickles, tomatoes and other savory ingredients. The beef-free tartare is served with capers, onions and a whole-wheat toast. It is so delicious, that I would not mind to substitute the regular meat version with this flavour-bursting delicacy.

The Wild Mushroom Stroganoff made with a veggie sauce based on mushrooms, peppers and parsley, has also been on the menu for years. The Stroganoff is accompanied by crispy potato rösti, the Swiss speciality, and a dollop of a sour cream. The portion was huge and extremely satisfying, so I would recommend it as a main course after a light starter. The juicy mushrooms and slightly spicy sauce matched perfectly the dry, half-moon shaped pancake of the superb potato rösti. A crisp yet intense white wine aids with digestion of this generous dish.
I was disappointed by the Madras Banana served with an almost entire plate covering white rice, slices of fruits (apples, kiwi, tangerine, mango, pineapple, grapes), whipped cream, cashew nuts and a crisp Indian papadam bread. A mash-up of too many unbalanced ingredients that just did not work together (at least not for me).

The Hilt’s take on a Cordon Bleu is intriguing. This cheese ‘schnitzel‘ was made from the blend of the local Kaltbach-cheese, organic seitan, smoked organic tofu. The seitan and tofu resembled the ham in the respective Cordon Bleu. The gooey cheese, stretching from the plate, your fork up till it reached your mouth, will be digested for the next couple of days so beware of any planned activities. There is not an elegant way to eat it, unless you wrap the cheese around your fork like spaghetti and wait until the cheese string gets so weak that it ruptures. Served with a small side of grilled vegetables, brussels sprouts and carrots being Hiltl’s favorites, and roasted skin potatoes, it is another generous plate.
The buffet is filled with vegetables, raw, pickled, steamed, grilled, deep-fried, and protein substitutes like organic tofu and seitan, but the offer of curries makes you feel like in India or South-East Asia. Sadly, many warm foods are very oily and deep-fried, challenging healthy eaters. I liked the meatless balls in tomato sauce and fried quinoa patty that were not too seasoned and dripping oil. Childrens menu and plenty of gluten-free choices accomodate entire families.

There are plenty of eyes- and palate-seducing desserts, but we craved cheese. Nevertheless, the generous cheese plate was my curse. An unpasteurized cheese, although easier to digest as its enzymes aid your own army in the stomach, can bring troubles. One should be warned each time the restaurant features it in its cheese selection. The goats cheeses tasted fresh, but a follow-up of three days lasting stomach infection was a bad luck for me. The portions of the individual cuts were just too large for one person even if you had just that, so unless you posses a magic blender built inside you, you will feel the cheese even if it were pasteurized (sterilized by heat).
The lively atmosphere, where suited men mix up with cool young crowd, is the main draw for some visitors seeking a more animal friendly consumption. Hiltl is huge and popular, so reservations are recommended. The main dining room has two sections – one elevated with slightly nicer tables (with LEATHER!! chairs); and another closer to the kitchen that is more casual. There is also the bar behind the self-service buffet food area. This premise hosts bands and artists that perform in the evenings. The service in general is very friendly and efficient.

Hiltl has a nice selection of non-alcoholic beverages. The homemade lemonades and iced teas are refreshing. Most of them are too sugary though, so pick the unsweetened roibush or the herbal blend. The tea selection is quite good. Indian drinks such as the fermented milk-based lassi help with digestion of the creamy curries and fried foods.
The wine list is international including also lesser known wine-making regions. Most of the wines are served by-the-glass. A Swiss Chardonnay was quite boring, but I was intrigued by the French Tannat blend from Gascogne. It was not as fruity and round as its Uruguay version, but its rustic tannins were tamed by a more fruit-driven Merlot in the blend. The Atanasius red Austrian blend by Gut Oggau produced as all of their wines biodynamically, was much more balanced, complex and easily a liquid star of the dinner.
The bar prides itself with a wide selection of vodkas and the Hiltl classics cocktails. An organic beer on tap completes the social drinking experience that attracts some single vegetarians into the all-generations welcoming Hiltl. Now, the Swiss airlines features selected Hiltl classics on its international flights at all three classes, so you can try without even stepping into Zurich!

The Hiltl Buffet is either priced by weight (lunch: 4.90CHF; dinner: 5.50 CHF/100g, less for a take-away) or eat-as-much-as-you-like for 51 CHF at lunch and 57 CHF during the dinner service. Generally the à la carte portions are big and can be pricier.
🕗 Mon – Wed: 6am – midnight; Thurs – Sat: 6am till late; Sun: 8am till late.
Hiltl buffet and à la carte daily from 11am – 11pm
Breakfast Buffet: Mon – Fri: 6.30 – 10.30am; Sat: 6.30 – 11.30am
Hiltl Brunch: Sun: 9.30am – 2.30pm
✉ Sihlstrasse 28; 8001 Zürich; Switzerland.
☏ +41 0 44 227 70 00

Reaching to the Swiss mountains from the luxurious oriental Chedi Spa in Andermatt

Asia penetrates Alpine herbal tradition in the diverse booklet of treatments at the Chedi Spa in Andermatt. Enhancing ‘Oriental Rituals’ such as an aromatherapy foot polish, set your body and mind into a relaxed mood before most appointments.

The organic British cometic brand Ila is used for some treatments such as the two-hours ‘Ila Adreno Restore Ritual’ ideal for the hyper stressed city-dwellers coming to stabilize their well-being here. Restorative plants, naturopathic herbs and deeply relaxing Tibetan Ku Nye massage will tame your hormones and re-energize for the working week ahead. Inquire about the use of cupping during this treatment since it might cause bruising because of an increased blood flow into the sore areas of the body.

The rooms are warm, feature a gas-powered fire-place and spacious. You can take a shower and change in a behind the sliding door corner. The Alpienne Mountain Massage is perfect après-ski. Relieving muscle tension also helps during the summer after all day on a golf course. Choose from an immunity boosting and cramps relieving Marmot oil, soothing St. John’s Wort milk, anti-inflammatory Arnica milk or detoxifying Propolis massage milk. Foot reflexology balances your energy, body polishes uplift and body wraps either drain our toxins or nourish the skin.

Couples can plunge into one of the bathing ceremonies in the private spa suites bubbling up a soul healing romance in the mountains. The a gentle massage in the same room releases all the remaining tension.

The beauty queens and kings (there is a specific Ren Facial customised for men) can restore their youth with facials. Using the organic natural range by Ila, Ren cosmetics or local Alpienne Mountain Herbs, together with the right strokes can immediately transform your face. Plump and uplifted you will shine later when dining at one of the hotel’s restaurants or sipping a cocktail at the piano lobby.

The crisp and state-of-the-art facilities at the this resort about one hour drive from Zurich draw the working crowd from the city to the mountains so the weekends are very busy. Andermatt is an old ski village, until recently a very casual and calm for most of the year except for when the snowfall attracts skiers from the surrounding Cantons. Built by a construction magnate from Egypt, the five star hotel gleams every twinkle of contemporary luxury. Eastern accents in the architecture, the interior’s design, the hotel’s cuisine stretch also to its wows expelling spa complex.

As you enter through the reception and walk towards the main lobby you cannot miss the view of the spa’s lap pool. It is not a very private hangout, yet in the authentic Central European spirit, the large sauna, bio-sauna and steams are unisex. The hydrothermal pampering options make the Chedi spa in Andrematt a rejuvenating destination itself. There are two steams with different temperatures and aromatherapy, a large ice-cold plunge pool, a separate aqua-zone with jets, massage streams, jacuzzis, and more.

The lap pool at the Chedi spa in Andermatt is long enough for a serious workout, but for your own comfort two swimmers fit into its narrow basin. Refreshments such as smoothie and sweet dried fruits are served with compliments to everyone finding his own sofa lounge or lounge chair alongside the pool, and small healthy plates can be brought upon ordering.
The spa became the grande dame of this picturesque Swiss mountain village.
+41 41 888 74 88; chediandermatt@ghmhotels.com
Gotthardstrasse 4, Andermatt Ch 6490, Switzerland

Chesa Veglia: live Grill show at Chadafö in St Moritz

Badrutt’s Palace Hotel converted this historic farmhouse in the centre of St. Moritz into a soirée for gourmets and nightlife lovers. Since 1936 Chesa Veglia catered to the most demanding clientelle visiting St Moritz but also to diners preferring a casual, quick and family friendly environment.

Atmosphere: Piano plays each night creating an elegant and cosy setting, the room is dark and classy while it still feels mountain authentic. The Grill Chadafö is located in the building’s highest floor, above a casual pizzeria, traditional Swiss “stube”and perhaps the most exclusive private night club in town downstairs. The Grill is the most romantic and quiet of all. Couples, families, business partners or friends who want to enjoy a pleasant conversation over a meal are all in the right room. Do not wear your ski boots and jeans, but you do not need to wear anything formal. Smart casual will strike the dress code target right in the core.

Food: Everything on the grill is a specialty, but also fashionable creations such as Seared tuna sashimi style or foie gras do not disappoint. You can start with a salad if you plan on getting one of the restaurants generous steaks, lamb chops or veal later. If you are in the mood for an Asian creation then I can recommend the Seared tuna with sesame crust and shaved vegetables. The fish is superb. Fresh and meaty texture together with eastern spices are lovely with a glass of elegant red wine such as most of Bordeaux.

The grilled fish (changing according to availability and season) is also very good so you do not need to go for the cholesterol-boosting flank of red meat. Nevertheless, most diners come here for the meat. It is usually served with creamed spinach and potatoes, both generous and tasty. Some of the dishes will be finished in front of you on a small cooking station that the waiters stage there just before serving. Flames and flipping pancakes and meats just in front of you or behind your back if you face the windows adds a theatrical accent to the restaurant’s ambiance.
The pancakes are the sweet highlight of the menu as they are prepared in front of you. After all that meat we usually refer a cheese plate that is in tune with the savoury nature of our previous courses.
Drinks: The wine list is spectacular. Old vintages of Bordeaux and Burgundy are for the real connoisseurs and those fashioning big pockets. There are also wines from other regions, but with the grilled meat I prefer the old-fashioned Bordeaux. The champagne selection is extensive and invites you for a fizzy cocktail before or even after your dinner, particularly if you head out afterwards (the nightclub downstairs is convenient).
Cuisine: Swiss with Italian accents. Specialises in grilled meats and seafood.
Visit: January 2013
Price: High (St Moritz isn’t cheep in the first place, plus the restaurant belongs to the luxurious Badrutt’s Palace hotel although it is located separately from the main hotel’s building).
Opening hours: Grill Chadafö only in winter from 7.30pm – 11.00pm
Contact: Tel: +(41) 81 837 28 00
Address: Via Veglia 2, 7500 St Moritz, Switzerland.

Salastrains: gourmet pizza and honest Italian fare in St Moritz

Atmosphere: The outside terrace is very popular on sunny and warm days. Lovely views of the valley and ski slopes attract many diners. It is lively and refreshing. Inside there are two parts of the same restaurant. One is a bit more elegant and the other has a rustic mountain feel. When cruising the slopes we prefer to sit in the more casual one. Decorated with animal head trophies, horns and mountain photographs, the place assures you that you are in the European mountain area. Everyone wears their ski suits boots and even hats if they do not feel like taking them off. The room is pleasantly warm though so it is up to you how much you decide to undress.

Food: Honest, rustic and generous. The portions are not huge ( especially if you compare them to the portions typical in the US), yet most of the dishes are very filling. When skiing I like to warm up with a bowl of rich soup. The creamy Molligatawny Soup is my favourite. This curry-based creamy soup with pieces of chicken is hearty and tasty. It surely gives you a good base of energy for at least a couple of runs down the slopes.
Local meat platter is also a nice starter. Engadin specialities such as Deer carpaccio. Fish carpaccio or Tuna tartar are lighter and refreshing options.

The pizza is the reason why we return to Salastrains each time we ski in St Moritz. But this is not just any pizza. Crisp, thin crust with a hefty dose of cheese, crowned by a light brown cap of white truffles. What to say – it is the most gourmet pizza (and probably the priciest one) one can imagine. You can get also deer carpaccio, house-made noodles or risotto sprinkled with the precious white truffles from Alba.

Pasta are the restaurant’s signature as well as the fresh lobster. The homemade pastas are delicious, especially the linguine. The lobster is very nice for Europe, yet not superb like the Main lobster. You can have it steamed or grilled, served with a green salad or plain. Veal Milanese would surely please any lover of this Italian “schnitzel” style speciality.
There is a tempting dessert buffet in the restaurant, so if you still have a space for an “Apfelstrudel” , “Topfenstrudel” both served with vanilla sauce or a Chocolate mouse go for it. Not fussy, just home-style and generous.
Drinks: Warming up with a cup of mulled wine or tea with some schnapps (strong liquor) is a must in the mountains to get you soaked properly in the winter atmosphere. The wine list offers Italian, French and Swiss wines by the bottle and some by the glass (2 whites and 2 reds). If you feel like having some bubbles then a tiny bottle of Champagne (185ml Moet et Chandon) will not send your head into flying mode while replenishes your imaginary energy levels through the combination of sparkle and alcohol. Half bottles for those conscious about safe skiing are great option if you do not want to feel the drinks in your head. Magnums are perfect for big groups.
Cuisine: Italian and Engadin (area around St Moritz) traditional.
Visit: January 2012
Price: Medium to high (if you get truffles on everything you order then you will get a three-digit bill).
Opening season: All seasons. The restaurant is located at the Salastrains hotel.
Address: Via Salastrains 12, 7500 St Moritz, Switzerland
Contact: Tel: +(41) 81 830 07 07

Wine detox: Day five and finding comfort in alluring Japanese tea

Strolling all afternoon around Geneva on a hot day makes you think about ice cream and water and not about detox from alcohol. Unless you decide to sit in one of the lakeside restaurants or cafès where almost everyone savours a glass or a bottle of something worth celebrating the rare sunny day in the city on the footstep of the Alps. My lunch was a freshly baked roll take-away from a Swiss bakery so I was not exposed to any serious temptation, not yet.

Teppanyaki dinner at a Japanese restaurant

I love having the raw slices of sashimi with a glass of an Alsatian Gewurtztraminer, Riesling or even an oaky and rich Chardonnay from Burgundy or California. Japanese teppanyaki is a different story though. The dishes are prepared on an iron flat pan, and range from vegetables, eggs to meats like beef or seafood like prawns or squids. Usually, rich savoury sauces used in these dishes make them so intense and flavour-rich that a cup of tea rather than wine is a better option as a liquid accompaniment to the meal.
I had a delicious green brown rice tea blended with green tea called Genmaicha, which is sometimes also called the ‘Popcorn Tea’ (it is popping when the rice is roasted). Its smoky, baked, nutty and grassy aroma (from the green tea with which it is blended) plays down the intense flavours of the teppanyaki sauces. Very low in caffeine, genmaicha can be freely enjoyed in the evening without worrying about not getting a good night’s sleep. I am starting to ponder about giving up alcohol for good. The detox works, it seems. I do not want to predict the future, rather ask me once I will have wine with food again in three days – once my palate gets exposed to the sophisticated depth of great wine, will I prefer tea to wine then?