Gastronomic ceramics in America: from otherworldly architecture to Korean ware

Much of the most exciting gastronomy in the US is in the hands of talented immigrants, second generation Americans or those who returned from temporary stages at uniquely inspiring kitchens mainly from France, Scandinavia or Japan. Yet, in America the most contemporary poised chefs spin their ideas through the wide accessibility to incredible produce and professional workforce to its own unique level. Plus there is one Savannah-raised grown-up child whose imagination surpasses any culturally-inspired culinary approaches.

Culver City designgastronomic ceramists

gastronomic design

I cannot see the “from a time that is yet to be” restaurant by Jordan Kahn (in his own words) anywhere else but in LA. His current futuristic, almost spiritual project is nothing like his previous venture, although not much less talked about Red Medicine. I dined at both, but here we talk gastronomic ceramics, not the food (which in my opinion was great). The entire concept of Vespertine is about the wholeness of the experience. The visual, aural, gustative and intellectual sensory impact feels post apocalyptic and so do the locally made gastronomic ceramics the chef chose.

The sci-fi design of the Vespertine in Culver City collectively transformed the creative television production area of Los Angeles. The extraterrestrial architecture by Eric Owen Moss Architects is not for everyone, but it strikes everyone. Some of the vessels were designed by the otherworldly creator. His architectural water pitcher (pictured above left) is literally a miniature of the building itself.

gastronomic ceramistsgastronomic ceramists

Most of the barred down, rustic and construction pieces resembling tableware is made on the same street by MATCH stoneware. As its name suggests, this studio (pottery classes available) works mainly with sturdy stuff. The rusticity of the weighty bowls and plates invisibly blends in with the architecture. The overwhelmingly black, grainy stone bowls and plates are simple, yet profoundly complement chef Kahn’s visually naturalist cuisine. Some serving utilities by MATCH stoneware are just slate slabs, while others like the bowl for the desert look like broken scraps to be thrown away. Yet, their edges are smooth and safe to handle. The unconventional attracts everything surrounding the Vespertine concept. This casual, rather understated style is what the location is about. Culver City is unquestionably the most 21st century part of Los Angeles.

gastronomic ceramistsgastronomic ceramists

Quite the opposite, culturally immersed and educative dining experience awaits you on Manhattan. At Atomix chef Junghyun and general manager Ellia Park intend to ‘gift,’ innovative Korean Cuisine to New Yorkers. Inviting young South Korean creatives to join them expands the experience beyond its realm into the far-eastern contemporary journey. Atomix commissioned up-and-coming artist Eunyoung Kown, porcelain master Namhee Kim, and even the chef’s cousin ceramicist Youme Oh. In an interview for Bon Appetit in 2019 J. Park says: “I want Atomix to be a way to introduce young Korean talent, there aren’t many channels to enter the market otherwise.”

From the names I dropped so far you get that the restaurant is also a family business. His cousin crafted this jade-hued ceramic bowl by hand to mimic traditional Korean wares.

In my Gastronomic ceramics series, check further out what talent the great French chefs support, how wild the Best Restaurant in the World goes in working with designers in Spain, and learn about the seasonal tableware selections in Japan.


Gastronomic design ceramics chosen by El Celler de Can Roca

Morphing the shapes of the sea and the Catalan coast for the tables at El Celler de Can Roca in Girona are many Spaniards who design and handcraft plates so diverse that the only way to describe them is unique. While most of the gastronomic design ceramics at the greatest restaurant in Spain (and also voted the Best Restaurant in the World by the San Pellegrino Guide) recall nature, a set of aluminum plates looking like the Catalan bread was crafted exclusively for the restaurant by Andreu Carulla studio. Titled as Plat Viu it is a plate that seems to have a life of its own, that moves as if it was capable of breathing. The Roca brothers are not afraid to cross established boundaries nit just in their cuisine, but also their choice of tableware.

Gastronomic design ceramics El Celler de Can Roca gastronomic plates

This young product designer has also collaborated during the Pandemic closure on the reinvention of some signature dishes at the world-famous Catalan restaurant where innovation never rests on its laurels. Timeline is one of them. Read his article here.

gastronomic ceramics gastronomic ceramics El Celler de Can Rocagastronomic ceramics

I pictured all of the craftwork that captivated me most during my birthday meal at El Celler de Can Roca here. A duo of tea cups in a sea shell meets white chalk metamorphosis mesmerised me so profoundly that they wrapped them for me as a gift. These are very special gastronomic design ceramics also in their non-static buoyancy on the organically uneven saucers. One musts pay attention to that moment when the tea is poured in and sipped with a delicate care. I appreciate this subconscious push into mindfulness.

gastronomic ceramics at El Celler de Can Roca

In my Gastronomic design ceramics series, check further out what talent the great French chefs support, how the Japanese tableware changes with the seasons, or who in America employed an architect of his building to insert some vessels into the restaurant’s repertoire.


Gastronomic ceramics in Japan

In Japanese traditional tasting menu gastronomic ceramics have always played a supportive role to the chefs’ seasonal food presentation. The choice of the bowls, cups and plates is rarely limited to one artisan, but rather displays the seasonal connection with nature through the design painted on the vessels. Bamboo in spring, mushrooms in the fall decorate the Japan-made crafts. Kaiseki is not for everyone, especially in its ultra traditional use of controversial ingredients such as turtle, fugu fish and other to Westerners not excitingly edible curiosities. The contemporary adjustments are rather more palatable for the less adventurous diners.

Japanese ceramicsKyoto kaiseki art in gastronomic ceramics

In Kyoto, at Lurra, cheffed by California-born, Japan-raised chef who worked at Noma the choice of tableware is informed by contemporary sensibility in Japanese ceramics. Also in the ancient capital, the three Michelin starred Kichisen uses extraordinary Japanese tableware made locally. Each course proudly sits on a delightful earthenware or a delicate porcelain cushion. Lucky me again on my birthday, I was given a much admired with gold inlaid bamboo brushed rice bowl by the always accommodating masterchef (pictured above left).

Picking rather traditional Japanese ceramics bought at antique stores, the Nishikawa kaiseki course reveals something different at each meal. It is almost like an exhibition, so I am always curious not just about the food to be served, but as much about what it will be served in this next time.

potteryJapanese tuna

The roughly-textured and unconventionally-shaped Japanese ceramics naturally contrast with the perfection of lacquerware or crystal serving bowls and plates used in the tasting menus. Some sushi chefs also take the effort to handpick artisan tableware personally. Intriguing gastronomic ceramics are used at the three Michelin starred omakase tasting of Sushi Yoshitake in Tokyo.

Radka Beach, editor at La Muse BlueRed sea perch

I interviewed the Japanese designer Shinichiro Ogata of Simplicity studio in Tokyo. There his group of design-driven restaurants includes a tea room, tea bar, a counter restaurant, wagashi boutiques and an exclusive private dining club Yakumo Saryo. The latest project includes a restaurant and tea room in Paris, but his home- and tableware can be found as far as in California. The sublime three Michelin restaurant Single Thread included some of his minimalist pieces in their extraordinary kaiseki menu. Beyond ceramics, his copperware, award-winning signature paper-ware and laquer are more about design than manual work. Yet, it’s their simple perfection that is so appealing. Very Japanese. Metal meets perfectly polished clay or bamboo in some of his trays and tea pots.

gastronomic ceramics in Japan

seasonal kaiseki starters

In my Gastronomic ceramics series, check further out what talent the great French chefs support, how wild the Best Restaurant in the World goes in working with designers in Spain, or who in America employed an architect of his building to insert some vessels into the restaurant’s repertoire.


Gastronomic ceramics chosen by the greatest chefs

Fire in my bones sparks when my food is served in a beautiful tableware. Gastronomic ceramics can easily turn even a simple meal into a ritual, but it is at the great restaurants where their work shines like in a jewel box. The chefs’ taste in art is as diverse as the culinary interpretations they themselves represent. It is fascinating to see what kind of plates they chose for their creative food.

gastronomic ceramics gastronomic plates

Artisanal magnificence has intrigued the fine chefs for millennia, but was limited to the royalty and upper class tables. Far more democratised today, the chef’s choices go beyond traditional luxury porcelain manufacturers. Often exploring regional talent in creative collaborations for their special restaurants. I dined at the world’s finest restaurants, and I would dare to classify three approaches to tableware:

  • Sticking to the traditional fine, mostly in Europe-made porcelain
  • Seeking rather minimalist, unassuming contemporary or rustic ware in the Japanese or Korean style
  • Elevates local or one’s native talent into starry heights by their highly curated selections and collaborations

gastronomic ceramics

gastronomic design

It is the last that intrigues me most. Organised by country, I share in separate articles my favourite plating treasures that I found along my gastronomic pilgrimages. In particular, when the ceramicist studio spins the potter’s wheel nearby. Most restaurateurs use a varied palette of serving plates not limited to one artisan only, so I am highlighting those potters whose handwork stroke me the most.

For my favorite gastronomic ceramics, we will travel from France through Spain, the UK, both coasts of the United States, and finally across the Pacific to Japan.

French ceramics

Creativity without limits where the visual, tactile and the gustatory senses meet sparks a wonder so memorable that … While dining and later shopping at their boutiques often attached to their own workshops, my experience of either was elevated into something more connected, meaningful and mutually supportive. Needless to add, all of these ceramics are works of art and must be handled with care so all that handwashing by the restaurant staff skyrockets my respect for their labor.

NOTE: I received no sponsorship for my selections. All of the ceramics were discovered during my self-paid meals at the restaurants that I love. I selected only those that most wowed me. I liked these outstanding handmade pieces so much that I either purchased my favorites or was given them on my birthday by the restaurant as they were nowhere for sale. The generosity of El Celler de Can Roca deserves an immense gratitude!


Gastronomic ceramics chosen by the greatest chefs in France

Gastronomic ceramics at the greatest restaurants in France tend to be most locally connected in the rural regions where the artisans settle.

Like the legendary chef Georges Blanc in Vonnas, Règis Marcon transformed his village of Saint Bonnet Le Froid through his three Michelin restaurant. His family runs a casual bistro, bakery, gourmet shop, but also inspires creative talent like artists to settle in. A gastronomy lover Julie Solo moved in from Marseille in 2019 to open her first atelier that she named Á Mains Nues. Meaning literally “nude hands atelier”, it captures her minimalist approach to ceramics she learned from a parisien Emmanuelle Wittman for three years. Now in her visually comforting boutique cum studio, she creates organic natural forms so delicate that one musts take a feather grip when touching some of her pieces. Like fragile flower petals or silky as French lingerie, the finesse of her pieces is extraordinary.

Her works seduced the three starred chef so he commissioned her to create vases for the fine tables and most recently a coffee service. Working in white mainly, with some black, the contrast of rusticity against finesse in Japanese and Korean works inspires her. To add warmth to her cold colors, she likes to add a touch of gold. Increasingly, sandstone forms the base under a transparent porcelain slip enameled with vegetable ash. As she collaborates closely with the best in French gastronomy (The World Patisserie champion Marie Simon in Beaune), as well as up and coming talents (Grains de Sucres in Lyon) her ceramics also evolve.

Follow her on Instagram @nue.ceramique and you will be embalmed in the beauty of her creativity.

6 Rue du Vivarais | 43290 Saint-Bonnet-le-froid | France

Closer to the Alps in the Savoy region (Haute Savoie) near the pristine Annecy lake, Jean-Paul Bozzone spins the potters wheel with his raku and other by far-east inspired ware. On the northern side of the lake, his selected works by the three Michelin starred chef Laurent Petit, harmoniously accompany the experience at the eponymously locavore lake-meets-land restaurant Le Clos des Sens. Decorative vases, vast plates, cosy bowls and tiny guinomi reverted upside down to serve some amouse-bouches of the chef’s cuisine vegetale. Some of the earthly pieces are custom-made, but often the chef and his welcoming wife drive over to La Poterie du Grand Pont to see what was just fired in the oven. The greatest Japanese potters, contemporary as well as the legends like late Shoji Hamada (Mingei folk-style pottery), would bow their heads over the masterworks made in France. One of his bowls (pictured below at Le Clos des Sens) reminded me of Roquefort (the French AOC blue cheese).

74210 Faverges-Seythenex |  France
French potters French gastronomic pottery
French potters French gastronomic pottery

In Arles further down South Cécile Cayrol wheels pottery classes in the heart of the ancient cobbled town of toreadors and Van Gogh. Her studio La Main Qui Pense can be translated as The Thinking Hand. I am particularly fond of her use of the nearby Mediterranean sand on her frosted series. In one word I would capture her work as la terre, the soil. Sunset tones on her vases and bowls, sun bleached hues on cups, but also glazed plates.

Arles artArles dogs

natural ceramics

Her collaboration with the great chef Glenn Viel at the nearby L’Oustau de Baumaniere yielded practical pebble-shaped plates, sanded olive oil and vinegar jars, salt and pepper dispensers, and surely more is to come. This mutual project is rooted entirely in the Southern soil. As much as three three starred chef sources from the bountiful Provence region, natural geolocation inspires the works of C. Cayrol (her signature on the bottoms). Her dog welcomes you calmly at her very Provençal atelier, so each time I stop by to check out what new she created. I adore her bowls, vases and tea service that are glazed only inside and left to the withering environmental elements on the outside. Intriguingly, I wish that we were like them. Protected in our psyche and did not care as much about the outward appearance as we usually do.

Arles | 15 rue Tour de Fabre |  France

In my Gastronomic ceramics series, check further out how wild the Best Restaurant in the World goes in working with designers in Spain, how the Japanese tableware changes with the seasons or who in America employed an architect of his building to insert some vessels into the restaurant’s repertoire.


Divining the future through mirrors

We brought mirrors into our lives for various reasons.

Their reflection is what stirs something inside us. Whether it is the self-judgemental inner critic of our superficial appearance does not matter, but what that train of thought mirrors is that deep inside we want to be assured by something outside of us, that we are real, worth of being, here to imprint ourselves on the world.

Reality is about change. Mirrors have the innate ability to reflect that change in the fleeting parodies of our momentous life. Can they predict future? Now in the Anthropocene, as much as before or even more, we might want to know.

divination mirror

The Maya and the Aztecs believed in prediction through physical and mental reflection. The obsidian, and prior to them the pyrite mirrors were praised possessions by the powerful, who trusted in the magic of these “smoking mirrors”. Obsidian has a volcanic origin. This cooled lava wowed the ancient Meso-american natives in their region with an extremely high volcanic activity.

Prior to these, a natural mirror, water, was used to divine meaning and fate. One of the greatest Aztec deities was the Lord Smoking Mirror, Tezcatlipoca. He was the patron of sorcerers and magicians, the giver of life and death, of all fates good and bad, that guided the rulers on the right path not just for themselves, but also for the entire civilisation. Belief renders doubt fearless!

Optical art

The Mirror of the Irrational Future through Past

Random concurrences

Calculated hacks

Spontaneous mood swings

Unscheduled magic

Will of changing minds 

The offsprings of wishful thinking

Divined through the lips of an oracle

A psychic connected above, beyond and under

Written in bones cast by the Greeks

Rolled through the physical shape of a dice

In Chinese patterns, consulting numbers

 

Revealing knowledge deep within the intuitive self 

The future meets the past unclothed

Mock culture that interferes — banishing nakedness

Ancient prophesying rationalised, hoping to be undone

The bones are souls, even when turned into ashes

Perhaps?

The soul knows

The mystical is not shrouded in secrets

Tell me, the obsidian mirror

Of the favours of the gods

Glued together with a bat’s poo

A cooled lava spurted from the Earth’s womb

A smoky entrance ticket into the underworld

The power over life and death

Shrouded in desire

A bird flying high or low

Beyond human certainty

 

Augury knows more about

The needs of the insecure

Joy on the waiting list

Neither here, nor now

While, the astrologers’

Planetary trysts with stars

Peering into a box of water

The ripples share the tale

In their future-bearing banter

The watery realms decipher

Waters are mirrors telling the future

~RB~

There still are many distinct divination methods in use today, I learned during an online course with the Harvard Divination School. The influence of some diminished, while others are being revived. The Astragaloi bones were cast by the Greeks in the height of its ancient culture. After science explained comets, bones are left to the museums and dice is used more as a gambling tool. Curiously, the Tarot is increasingly sold from East to West at bookstores and hip concept stores next to crystals and palo santo.

spiritual crystalscrystal

The Meso-american use of mirrors to predict future fascinates me because like Tarot, this divination is not based on chance. The physical meets the psychological character in these reflective objects. Western fairy tales such as the Sleeping Beauty by the Brothers Grimm also used the mirror’s divinatory prowess to change the actual storyline. Magic sometimes reveals mystery.

divinationMeeting your shadow

Although mirrors seem to only reflect what is in front of them, they were viewed as the windows into the meaning of what is beyond here and now. Some artists play with that idea in their intriguing installations.  As interactive art grows, we have the opportunity to engage with it on a deeper level. Above, I further played the mirror of the self in an exhibition at a former monastery in Provence. What I saw was not just the shape of my jawline, my lips and the buttons of my eye pupils, I saw a poem. Most recently in Milano, the Rodin and Dance themed showing at MUDEC, stirred me and my happy to join for fun friend Lauren to dance in the front of the digitally-sensitive screen playing music according to our movements — faster as we frolicked, slowing down as we twirled our hands like east-asian goddesses. 

I love the poem Window Forough Farrokhzad in Summer 2020 Issue no. 233 of The Paris Review:

A window like a well

that ends deep in the heart of the earth

and opens out into this expanse of recurring blue kindness

….

Say something to me

What does one who grants you the kindness of a living body

want from you in return but an understanding of what it means to feel alive?

Say something to me

In the sanctuary of my window

I am one with the sun


Another interactive art experience connected us through a 3d motion picture shot entirely at night with the plant life in almost a psychedelic sensation (without the side effects).

Nightlife by Cyprien Gaylard examines the legacies of revolution, political resistance and resilience through the relics and ruins of modern history. His web of relations stirred us into motion with the plant life brought to multi-dimensional aliveness. the French artist lives and works between Berlin and New York. This showing bellow is at Luma Westbau in Zurich. Gratitude to my friend Polly for participating spontaneously with me!

 

Read more about the role of the mirrors in the ancient Mesoamerica: Olivier, G. (2003): Mockeries and Metamorphoses of an Aztec God – Tezcatlipoca, “Lord of the Smoking Mirror”, University Press of Colorado, Boulder, USA. If you want to learn more about the ancient divination that the course Predictive Systems that helps classify and understand similarities and differences amongst predictive methods across time and cultures. It is used throughout PredictionX at Harvard University.

A thought-provoking question to open your mind. How different is the experience of your reflection in a  mirror or other reflecting surface like water from seeing your own shadow?


Corrupted purity: Chinese poetic mastery meets contemporary reality

My short poem about corrupted purity was inspired by some of the eternal truths shared in the poems of perhaps the greatest Chinese poet Du Fu. Also known in the West as Tu Fu (712-770) he wandered during China’s vicious civil war by the Yangtze River, the hotbed of Chinese naturalist culture. The realism of his masterful blending of the abstract and the concrete innovated Chinese poetry from his time on. As a poet-historian his panoramatic and truthful description of the suffering he met along his exile in far West and Southwest of China back then still reverberates in the hearts of humanity today. His grasp of Taoist philosophy speaks to us with a spiritual depth so profound that it is timeless.

tea and poetrytea time

Alone in Her Beauty is a gorgeous poem about the nature of the self and how it is influenced by the feuds of power and society far away from its truth. This is my favorite excerpt from this poem. Let it flow and tickle your conscience.

“… The brook was pure in its mountain source,

But away from the mountain its waters darken…”

Du Fu as translated by David Hinton in his anthology of Classical Chinese Poetry.

corrupted purity

Here is my contemporary rendering:

My soul, the purest cup of blood

Bleeds out with more lies told

Corrupt by desires of society

I imprison my heart in the tower of vanity

~ Joy

Corrupted purity is not irreversible, we can cleanse our souls from the dirt of lies. In India the burden is called karma, in the Western catholic tradition we cleanse ourselves from sins though repentance, but in general liberated authenticity is what leads our souls to the Eden on Earth.


Pandemic travels: what they’ve taught me about humanity in the crowded world we live in

Glamorously we got so used to traveling beyond the two holiday trips per year that taking the cross-border experience away feels like a galactic loss. Pandemic travels have changed our perspective of global roaming around liberally. Responsible behavior can take away ostentatious expressions of free-will, yet what is NOW more important? Without the rule of law, humanity tends to slip into anarchy. As the millennia of failures broadened our understanding, policing ourselves does not generally work. Nevertheless, in some regions or states people behave more mindfully towards others. Usually in places that do not pamper the ego, glaringly inflated into harmful heights, but instead cherishing humbleness and politeness.

uttarasanga monks dress

Pandemic travels of a better human being: be savvy and respectful

Curbing one’s appetites is not fun, yet we know deep inside that it is good for us. Unless, we emotionally blind ourselves. In a fair and constructive democracy as much as in any morally strong society, one’s behavior shall not harm the others. You have the right to destroy yourself, but do not infringe on the wellbeing of other living beings. Our distinct law systems globally agree on mutually regarding benefiting humanity as a whole.

In the case of invisible harms, such as deadly viruses it is extremely challenging to reveal the proof of the perpetrator’s guilt. Yet, you can kill by simply not wearing the mask and not following the hygienic protocols recommended by the health authorities. I am not exaggerating at all. These are no conspiracies (to rule over you clean and safe body!?), but plain facts known by trustable global organisations and science. These simple rules were unceasingly followed by the world’s most sensible people and those who can curb selfishness, desire and ego in following them. I learned that we shall strive to be but a shadow, to express ourselves but do not leave a permanent imprint on another life along our path. This is showing a pure respect, and still more healthy self-expressive than invading others. Our mere presence can be destructive. Would you desire another person to sabotage your wellbeing?

Still, if you must seek role models, here is one in tune with our tech-forward times. I find myself typing in the Silicon Valley. Here everyone meticulously wears the face mask even on the hiking trails and while running in the wide open space. There are many super smart people living around Stanford University, won’t you agree? In terms of health, I would do what they do.

oldest tree in California

From Europe through London to California the self is present

During my limited travels over the past year some behaviors stroke me like a naked octogenarian running across the Times Square. In Los Angeles, the closer to Hollywood you get, the less masks are worn. Hiking up the trendy Runyon Canyon, all the Insta-cool bare-chested, spandex folks bared their faces and did not mind social distancing. The same self-obsessed, public safety disregarding behavior I abhorred at London’s Hyde Park during the strict lockdown. That weekend in early March, me and my friend were the rare strollers wearing our facemasks in a place so crowded that Trafalgar Square during a demonstration would equal the density. Vicious new strains were recorded in parts of London by that time. Those folks would even protest wearing masks as infringing on their personal liberty. Where have we got in our democracy?

Have you thought of the nation where winter tourism was born? The most liberal country in Europe next to Sweden kept all the ski runs opened throughout winter. Taking the safer cross-country trails, luckily, perhaps it was the mountain breeze that protected us from any contagion in the vast open space. Switzerland is barely a nine million nation that also has lakes to its merriment. Boating is so easy here and so is hiking on the countless trails for the rest of the year.

Pandemic staycations

Shed fear by embracing safer options: the vaccine debate

I got my second shot of Pfizer in the US and I am gratefully relieved off the others’ irresponsible behavior. Vaccine passports are a smart idea. If we want to keep traveling, we shall take responsibility for others’ health that our mere presence can seriously undermine.

Vaccines have saved historically countless lives. Millions of babies would not have survived beyond their first months or years. Potentially, our entire species would be extinguished by this millennium, when hopping on a cheap plane can spread any disease with a handshake. Therefore, facing the challenge of Covid 19 and any emerging dangerous strains, one cannot more agree that without the effective vaccine one should not be allowed to travel unless under a strict, supervised quarantine. During the past pandemics almost a half of humanity perished. Blame your government for being so slow enrolling this proven mass protection, science shall be applauded for the heroic speed it took to find the cure.

After passing our vaccine protocol, we still can carry the virus and can be contagious (luckily much less, but still) so wearing the masks in public is still better advised until we defy this vicious virus together. Whether I was in Italy or Beverly Hills, I was masked up. Interestingly in the later many more people wore the masks on the streets, while in Italy, so badly hit by the first round of Covid, had plenty of “chin warmers” socialising around.

wear the maskRolls Royce lady

Give up planning, embrace last minute opportunities or staycations

So, where to go now or perhaps soon? Planning crossing the borders under the current global emergency imminently slips into last minute arrangements. I was one one of the rare travellers that still whizzed between countries and continents over the past year. Yet, the main reasons why I have not contracted and not contained anyone else with the virus were: wearing the mask responsibly, meticulously cleaning and wiping my hands, my studious husband’s following the data and safety announcements with his sharp eagle eye. His planning around escaping to safer countries just before the numbers plummeted in France, Italy and Switzerland got us to the Bermudas, Florida’s beaches, England and California. This cost him days if not weeks of planning and constant changing. Frustrating, but with the right attitude icebergs melt. With only a few quarantine books and sweatpants in my suitcase we decided one morning to book a flight to California the next afternoon. Lots if paperwork, but worth getting our vaccines sooner than most in Europe did.

Rare opportunities must be grasped before they fizz away like a Jin from a bottle, yet a pandemic that still kills millions of people requires also a vigilant savvy of last minute planning combined with realistic forecasting skills. While being mostly an optimist, my mindset does not ignore the gravely reality. Yet, seeing the flip side of occurrences helps to balance the scales of judgement, shredding off fear. When life-death is on the line or serious consequences abound one must trust not just the guts, but follow the reason without the cloud of affective emotions. While yoga teaches clear vision and guides to higher consciousness, India, it’s birth country, is having its red light now in the pandemic. Not everyone is a true yogi in India, and more the chaotic life and density of humanity together with poor healthcare system trapped millions in the virus’s malware.

Pandemic travelsdocking boatBermuda best beach

Clear horizons, embracing nature holidays

Literally, the ominous 2020 had the potential to bring clear vision to our lives. The eye doctors must have rolled up their pupils though. While giving you a 2020 rating for the physical quality of your sight would be pleasing, most of us could not see through the emotional and self-indulgent fog in our minds. That potential of a strange year dwelled in going in rather than outside. Psychologically, reclusive introspection is highly challenging. As my intense online study with the C. G. Jung Institute in Switzerland revealed, the individuation or self-actualisation is achieved only by a few dedicated people, Jesus and Gandhi are the few to name. Yet, we shall strive to learn enough about ourselves so as we age we become better stewards of our life. The pandemic offered a tremendous opportunity to do so and not virtually alone. Online, plenty of meditation and learning opportunities were offered free of charge. Still, we need to get out often for the sake of our sanity. Cities were off limits, so I have spent about four days in large metropoles during my pandemic travels (excluding obligatory quarantine in London). I had to battle an inner bug instead.

I have a travel virus, ever since I first ventured to Italy, lived across Asia and journeyed to South America, there was not a stop sign that would keep me in place. More on the road than at home, I was that odd human being who still managed pandemic travels during the ominous past year. Safely, as I mentioned earlier. Each trip being multiple-tested, wearing our masks and never let the housekeeping mending our room at hotels, no gyms, only nature walks and bicycles moved us around. It felt great to connect with nature, less noise, no crowds, a blissful feeling abounds.

Swiss mountains Swiss mountains

The summer of 2020 was wonderful, but Europe especially is paying for its liberal indulgences of socialising and traveling as if the world was in 2019. The initial restraints of spring did not carried happily into fall, thus we are in a much worse situation in the round II. While most traveled to the Mediterranean beaches in July and August, we headed to the virtually empty central Europe. The Alpine hikes and bike rides were as amazing as my horse riding, and so was Prague, the architectural gem of Central Europe spread like a magic carpet to our spacious indulgence. Pandemic travels took us also through Provence late spring, Burgundy in June, Austria and Germany in July, Liguria and Milan in August, the timing was key.

vineyard trail in Burgundy

Later, turning winter into an opportunity my sister with her fiancée snapped a bargain in Maldives. A reclusive island stay cannot guarantee access to best healthcare in case of an emergency, yet one had to weigh the pros and cons. Before 2021 spring hit they went to a safari in Tanzania and suntanning in warm Zanzibar. They were lucky though, as this was by far the riskiest trip of their lives, and they even had not idea. Ourselves being number-cautious, we embarked for the Bermudas. The most magnificent catch of that trip was that it was overwhelmingly local. Highly popular with cruise ships, the Bermuda beaches tend to be packed with tourists, but we had the sandy windswept coast just to ourselves, plus a few locals. Paradise! Further warmer countries offer more outdoor space for dining, which is far more safe than being limited solely to the indoor restaurants.

Sea loversThe Charles Bridge in Prague

Love, family and the pandemic

I do miss all the people who lift me into a smile, puzzle my philosophical mind, challenge my perceptions, dance with me around their gardens or night clubs, yes, social distancing sucks, to be honest. Yet, there are other pleasures in life to rejoice in. Like food. Indeed, there is more in the daily fuel, sugar rush to satisfy or swirling pans in your kitchen (plenty of flips and turns around our stoves during the pandemic). Love goes through our bellies (someone said). Although being in love can make you forget eating as much as that comfort of food can feel like being unconditionally loved. Since Czechia had done very well during the first wave of Covid, we embarked on visiting friends and family during the summer. I published a series of photographs of the gorgeously deserted Charles Bridge that felt as spacious as before the fall of the iron Curtain. Ourselves isolating up till that summer, we were a small danger to our beloved ones, so we met everyone outdoors for jolly meals and recuperating walks. Glad, we did. I have not seen any of them since August (now, May stroke me out of the blue). The country dawned into the dark abyss of being the worst country in Europe in fall and winter, there was no gate back until the measures were long and strict enough to lower the spread of the virus.

MOMA San FranciscoOptical artOptical art

Art, indoor exhibitions and live music

As much as I missed social contact, I was famished for art! While museums, theaters and galleries shut for most of the past year, short gaps opened their collections to the public. Pandemic travels proved to be more interesting when the art institutions were able to reopen. Most had to limit the number of visitors and that was a fairytale come true for a true art and space lover like myself. I indulged in each painting, sculpture and installation wholesomely.

https://youtu.be/VBLhIoIaVqI

In Vienna, the halls of Albertina, usually crowded with tourists, were deserted so I could meditate over the paintings by Wilhelm Loibl. I could truly connect with them, not barely glimpse over these framed artefacts.

In San Francisco the museums required advanced reservations and some were so popular that I was only able to find a slot for the Frida Kahlo exhibit at the very end of our California trip. I honestly do not miss the overcrowded openings at museums where one cannot fully engage with the pieces one likes. The limited attendees numbers suited me selfishly well.

We were unexpectedly pampered by a wonderful guitar and singing at Laguna Beach in California. As if the All-mighty ordered the musician at our first meal out in months. Set in a canyon just behind the beach, the alfresco experience rejoiced our hearts.

Swiss outdoor lifestyleSwiss outdoor lifestyle

Exercise and wine tasting

I love the outdoor gyms! While some hotels already embraced breezy workout before the pandemic stroke, others set up some exercise machines on their terraces or by the pools. I felt so much more invigorated and gushing with joy after a peloton ride outdoors. In California, I took my first group class since October. While being limited to six participants on a rooftop, we all sweatted massively though our mask coverings. This group suffering connected us and encouraged our effort in a “cardio” yoga (it is extremely challenging to breathe properly during a cardio workout in the mask) taught by a kickboxing instructor. Regardless of being fully vaccinated, I joined the others in respect, not anger at the “stupid rules”. Mostly though, throughout the year we hiked even in the snow. I also finally met the almost two thousand year old Methusela. This redwood stalwart feels so overwhelming live, perhaps a group of eight could hug it. As if the tree spoke to me in its ancient tongue, approving of my increased time spent in nature, I became more sensitive to the magic life surrounding me beyond cities. The forest is as lively as a metropolis, yet to my mind it feels grounding and wonderfully joyous that no indoor exercise can provide such a profound sensation of zest for life.

Swiss outdoor lifestylePeloton

Wine tasting also embraced safety protocols. By appointment only and vastly in the outdoors, protected by tented roofs or umbrellas when needed. I cruised Napa, Sonoma and the Santa Cruz best vineyards with a greater awareness. Limiting the number of wineries to one per day. Each occasion took close to two hours of welcoming generosity, strolling between the vines or sipping by an outdoor table set in the midst of the vineyards.

Beach girlfemale winemakers in California

While I encourage joy on La Muse Blue, I also suggest seeking balance. I’m not a reforming preacher, yet perhaps we need the Renaissance of values-driven society to remedy the selfish individualism that plagued the 21st century men. A vast amount of serious research studying happiness (surely one of the most important aspects of our lives) confirms that attitude can move mountains, but also that a well measured restraint enhances our joy from the everyday small pleasures. Pandemic travels reminded me of how important for our common wellbeing is respecting the others’ liberty, their right to live and be healthy. Selfish behaviors will only lead to destruction. Take the Roman Empire, the corrupt Catholic clergy of the crusades, the French opulent kings, then Napoleon, the colonial superpowers and countless other overt and indulgent societies. We can change.


Indulge in Los Angeles at its iconic eateries

All cultish foodies, straight from the LAX airport head to a nearby In-N-Out Burger, a slowly-growing chain of fast food eateries founded in 1948. Unlike countless global cheep food behemoths, the family owned business has never stretched beyond the West Coast. Quality rules by using fresh, unprocessed meat from California and Texas, cut by the in-house butchers and all food is made to order, including the real potato fries. The ‘Animal Style’ burger is the crowd’s favourite (extra onions and pickles), while the carb-conscious go for the ‘Protein Style’ served between two enveloping lettuce leaves instead of the usual starchy bun. It’s plant-based nemesis is the sublime Yuba vegan reuben sandwich at SQIRL in Silver Lake. And I must admit, I was more smitten by that sublimely toasted sourdough sandwich than the famous burger chain.
best burgers in Americabest casual east in LA

Wolfgang Puck: the local food export

To indulge in Los Angeles means checking out one of the homegrown chefs original restaurants. If you are in the mood for something gastronomic and fresh, then dine at the gorgeous Bel Air Hotel. Wolfgang Puck’s newest LA restaurant lures with an outdoor heated patio and an elegant restaurant inside. As the flames of the heaters warm the cool desert evenings in the valley between the hilly Bel Air, the romantic soul in you will be awakened. Sustainable and locally grown produce in his California meets Europe-themed dishes are presented with an elegant flair. The Austria-born Puck was the pioneer of modern Californian cuisine some 30 years ago, when he blended the abundant local ingredients with other world cuisines. You can try his traditional Austrian breaded schnitzel after a raw fish carpaccio there.
Hotel Bel Air Barbest food in Hollywood

Spago in Beverly Hills was the chef’s first high-end success and still, after its recent revamp, remains popular. Here, ask for the Smoked Salmon Pizza, now off the menu, but they will bake it. Its wine list is hard to beat in town, but his newer venture at Bel Air is more consistent in pleasing your palate. Now an export, Puck’s Cut steakhouse is the flashiest of its kind in California and London. LA is the city of contrasts, so aside from some spare glitzy outings, most restaurants are rather simply decorated and you can venture almost anywhere casually dressed.

artisanal Iranian Sangak breadOmakase sushi

Marvelous ethnic cuisine in LA

The “City of Angels” is strongly influenced by its multi-ethnic neighbourhoods. Foodies can reach anywhere for a casual Cal-Mex taco from the moving food trucks (Mariscos Jalisco is a must!), splurge on a Korean bbq ideally in the Korea Town or dive into the new California cuisine blending it all together. The upbeat and trendy food trucks move around town so checking their current location online is a must if you have a specific craving. The ethnic casual eateries around the booming Downtown are hip, but one should also discover some Persian food around West LA for the Iranian community here is the largest abroad. In the Valley there are also some excellent Persian grocers baking the typical stretched flatbreads and selling authentic rose and saffron ice cream that a friend intruded me to unforgettably.

LA sushi  Los Angeles Japanese food LA sushi
LA is a haven for casual as well as high-end Japanese food lovers. From trendy modern sushi bars such as Katsuya, through unpretentious Sugarfish, Wa Sushi and its godfather Matsuhisa, to the ultra-lux and priciest omakase indulgence at Urasawa – the choices are abundant. Hiro Urasawa is often thought to be one of the best Japanese chefs in America and his mastery is demonstrated in the perfectly crafted courses served for a small group of lucky diners, who are not afraid to splurge on delicious food. Not far, still in Beverly Hills is perhaps even more enjoyable and less serious branch of Ginza Sushi Onodera (also in New York), where rare seasonal ocean bounty will take your breath away.

Omakase sushi in LALA fine dining

If your time is limited in LA, must-visit is Nobu’s first restaurant that started the global craze of chic and trendy Japanese dining. The casual Matsuhisa still frequented by Hollywood A-listers rightfully deserves its fame. The food is superb. In West LA along the Sawtelle Boulevard, Little Tokyo transports you far East. Kiriko’s sushi chef and owner Ken Namba creates nice omakase with a much better value than most in the city. Come in the evening and you will not believe you are still in LA. The local specialist grocery stores carry everything Nippon from sencha, seaweed, teriyaki and yakitori sauces to dozens types of noodles. LA is vast, so it has two Japan towns. The larger one in Downtown prides on Sushi Takeda treats you to omakase served only during the first 6:30pm seating by the master chef himself.

For the most sophisticated by Japan-inspired gastronomy head to n/naka by chef Niki Nakayama of the Netflix Chef’s table fame. Her restaurant in Culver City shook the local tastes with its airy lightness.

Best Italian food in America

Ingredients driven cuisine needs excellent produce within reach, and so a wave of Italian chefs made their mark on the LA’s shores. Superb freshly-made pasta can be enjoyed at the always busy Il Pastaio. Nancy Silverton used to create sublime meals at Osteria Mozza (6602 Melrose Avenue), but the pizza at the nearby popular Pizzeria Mozza (641 N. Highlands Avenue) is more worth the splurge today. The most discreet and adored by celebrities is the family managed Giorgio Baldi. Giorgio’s son Edoardo runs it now next to his restaurant e.baldi in Beverly Hills. Schooled in the perfect pasta making, must try are the signature splendid Sweet-corn Agnolotti in white truffle sauce. Sharon Stone is a regular.

Michelin Los Angeles best Italian dining in LA

For more gastronomic Italian experience head to Massimo Bottura‘s Osteria Gucci on Rodeo drive. The legendary Italian chef behind Osteria Francescana in Modena simplified the menu at his first casual dining branch in Florence and transplanted it successfully across the Atlantic. The young chefs duo create a signature tasting based on local ingredients finished with perhaps the best desserts in America by the Northern Italian pastry talent Tamara. Her Santa Barbara pistachio gelato is a must even for the followers of plant-based lifestyle as there is no dairy in it. To indulge in Los Angeles one must try some vegan options sprouting bountifully around.

Pizza at Gjelina

You cannot indulge in Los Angeles without trying once our favourite casual and trendy rustic new American eatery. Before Venice Beach became trendy, you could eat at Gjelina. Now, it is super hard to book. Unless you pop by for workweek lunch, reserve weeks in advance for dinner or wait for hours after walking in. The small plates and thin crust pizza from a wood-burning oven spitting out original toppings are lip smacking! You will not taste the same food anywhere else. Ideally, sit at the back outdoor inner patio with fireplace, from where you can peek into the kitchen. It feels like you are having a gourmet picnic. The restaurant is inconspicuous and easy to miss on the busy Abbot Kinney road, but the assembling people around its corner and the aromas of a freshly baked pizza will lure you in.

For a quick bite next door takeout a superb pizza at Gjelina To Go or drive to nearby Santa Monica for an authentic Californian seafood at Ivy at the Shore. Their crab cakes are luscious, the oven-baked lobster pizza generous and the salads XXXL. Another, more sophisticated yet hearty and casual option in the area is the Michelin starred Rustic Canyon.

mezzebest in LA

Hollywood eatsBejewelled crispy rice

On the other (eastern) side of the city in Hollywood, a must is an Eastern-Mediterranean inspired meal at Kismet, breakfast or hearty brunch at SQIRL in Silver Lake, where you must buy their locally sourced marmalades and the mouthwatering whipped ricotta on toast next to the wholesome savoury bowls. I share more of my LA lunch tips in another post.

LA eats

As you drive through the expansive city seeking to indulge in Los Angeles, do not forget that drinking alcohol while driving is not tolerated, and keeping this in mind saves you troubles. Just check the tabloids for the infamous of celebrities that got into a jail for that! Take your ID to any place that serves alcoholic beverages since you might be asked to prove that you are older than 21, enjoy the pleasures of the City of Angels!


Tea That Is NOT Tea: infused botanicals for health, vitality and taste

The ongoing global pandemic opened our eyes to the importance of boosting our immunity. Yet the remedies include a wealth of sketchy promises that fog our well-intentioned minds. With a steam of nonsense, adaptogenic supplements and tisanes flooded into natural health shelves with a gale force resounding a cure-all manifestos on their pretty packaging. In powders, moulded into pills, in precisely portioned bags, sip at once pouches or more eco glass jars, in supermarkets, cafes and yoga studios, these dietary supplements and “power” brews do often skip a qualified herbalist oversight. Today, the health-conscious herbivore can easily consume potent drinks from countless globetrotting botanicals.

My open-minded experiences around the world introduced me to wonderful and healthful herbs. These, I share with you for a greater life balance. I want to broaden your knowledge for the sake of superb taste, not lofty claims, and in rather safe choices and doses. You will fall in love with those herbal tisanes, and thus more likely include them joyfully in your regular sipping repertoire. But first understand why these are NOT tea.

herbal tisaneKagae beauty tea in Japan

The Seeds of Confusion: Tea That Is NOT Tea

Plant brews have been used for millennia as natural remedies in most cultures. Tea is one of them, and Camellia Sinensis infusion in various degrees of hot water spread from its far eastern provenance throughout the world. Today tea is planted as far as Brazil and the UK islands.

The word steeping in its root contains the sound tea in English, in German as Tee. Language is a finicky play with meanings, so confusion has infused the world with it. Any plant, aside from mate and coffee, brewed in water is often called a “herbal tea”. It is as if you called an apricot all the fruits! Blue apricot anyone? I’d rather have a blueberry.

In China, tea’s birth country, most herbs (together with medicinal mushrooms and various parts of animals) are used in TCM with their purpose as tonics, vitality boosters, relaxants and other active remedies. Some medicinal blends further contain dried mushrooms and fruits such as the Chinese date, jujube and goji berry. Still, no other freshly-cut or dried leaf has such a breadth and depth in taste as the tea Camellia does. Therefore, the real tea leaf has more of a ceremonial, a cultural heritage and often served as the Chinese poets’ muse.

In India, Ayurveda, the mother of systemic herbal remedies, has preceded the introduction if tea on its soil and culture by the British.

New York tea bar

Botanical Vitality bars rise to fame this millennium

Now, vitality bars and herbal super-potent mocktails are radiating their halos also in the West.

The Tonic Bar in West Hollywood does not shake G&T’s, but lures in entertainment executives for superfood shots, lattes and shakes. Now, the most expensive grocer in America, Erewhon, expanded its tonic bars across LA from Venice to Silver Lake.

Naturopathica‘s Vitality bar on Manhattan serves plant drinks in a contemporary apothecary setup.

In London Redemption is beyond a vegan restaurant focused on zero proof, often herbal cocktails.

In the fine dining realm, non-alcoholic beverage pairings have buzzed into creative hives for the sommeliers. A pregnant friend enjoyed a baby-to-be safe drinks at Noma with us. Almost any fine restaurant today offers some homemade shrubs, kombucha or infused sippings beyond caffeinated tea and water.

Botanical shop in New York

The trendiest bars and salons pride themselves in their non-alcoholic plant infusions. The Mixology Salon in Tokyo is one of my favorites also for tea-based concoctions. There also London’s Neal’s Yard Remedies expanded to a full herb-driven cafe offering great tisanes.

In the bottled form, from the UK hails th zero proof Seedlip and the memory-friendly Rosemary Water. Nor bad is a German WonderLeaf gin or the Danish sparkling rooibos as much as the made in California Optimist Botanicals seducing with a trio of herbal extracts to blend with bitters or tonics. They are as expensive as the average spirit, but they last shorter as you  use more in one mix.

There are many more such health pits along the global roads of cosmopolitan cities.

rejuvenating lifestyle

Herbology expanded into a decadent taste adventure

It is unlikely that you down any of the green powders for their marvelous taste, unless you froth them into a latte. Cha Cha Matcha et company tease in long queues, adding herbal options (such as lavender, seaweed and even beets, plus collagen of course) to their powdered tea menu. While health and nutrition are close friends, countless plants can be savoured in brews without necessarily drinking them for a remedial purpose. Fennel seeds are marvelous after a heavy meal, yet the brew also swifts the Mediterranean meadow’s fragrance into your body tasting lovely. Liquorice, its sweet stem is delectable in hot water on its own. Toasted grains like buckwheat are wonderful treat on a cold day. In Brittany (the popular Parisian Breizh Cafe roasts them superbly) as much as in Japan, where it is known as soba cha. For a full account of my personal favorite herbal tisanes check my recent post.

tea timeolive leaf tisanetea room

Human imagination as wild as nature

Quirky blends spurred especially in Northern America, where marshmallows, chocolate, even cookies entered the liquid beverage nomenclature. In Canada, Jumpy Monkey by David’s Tea energises anyone’s exotic cravings. In it white chocolate meets almonds, vanilla, coffee, cocoa nibs, cloves and mate. More of a steeped caffeinated dessert than a tisane, for there are no herbs aside from the Argentinian mate. Popular candies also find their way into a blend with rooibos and liquorice.

I am definitely more up for simple, high quality blends such as Nettle and Mint by London-based My Cup of Tea ideal for spring detox energy and summer cooling off. Their Herbal Chai healthfully replaces sweet and caffeinated treats in late afternoon. In New York, the savvy Jewish owner of Physical Graffiti Tea advices on the perfect match for your immediate needs and cravings.

Herbal infusionTea trends: Herbal tisane

How to brew tisanes

Studying pharmacognosy revealed to me the various methods for obtaining a medicinal tisane. Not because of the taste but to extract the desirable chemical compounds. A decoction is used for thick roots, you boil them for 5-15 minutes on medium-low heat. Most floral parts like stems require steeping at least 7-10 minutes, seeds can stay in the water without straining, while anything leafy is better with less time under the hot water. Always follow the instructions on the package or search online for the perfectly timed tisane.

Anyone in the health circle knows that a dose makes a poison. In some potent plants one must beware how often and how much is being used, some medical contraindications and pregnancy disqualify most herbs, so do consider herbal tisanes as a cure all, the more the better.


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